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Full text of "Bradshaw's illustrated hand-book for travellers in Belgium, on the Rhine, and through portions ..."

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M)\'i:UTlSh.MhMS. 



SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY. 

TIIK DIRECT MAIL SUOKT SEA-ROUTE TO ALL TARTS OF THE CONTINKN'l'. 



POUR COMIttUNICATIONS DAILY. 

THE OVERLAND llOUTE TO INDIA. AND FOR OFFICERS RETUIJMNG FKOM 

THE crimp: A AND TURKEY. 



Lonflon to RrussHn in 13?. Hoiirs. 
I.ondon to Marseilles tn 3t> Uoiir^. 



l«onflon to PariH in ] 3 Iflonrs. 
liondon to Coloj^ne in 19} Hoars. 

Sea Passage only two Hours. 

THE DAILY TIDAL SERVICE, 

VIA FOLKESTONE AND BOULOGNE, 

PERFORMKH always at tide time and by daylight, the hours of which ani 
published in the front page of ThA Time% affords the most advantageous means of communication 
Itetweon liOndon and Paris, and possess specially attractive features. Passengers are convcyeil l)y 
e.vpress train to Follcestone, where they walk on board a powerful steamer, from which they are 
landed in loss thun two hour.-*, and proceed at once to Paris by express train, making the journey in 
about Tweloe Hours. The same correspondence of trains and steamer is arranged from Paris to 
London. 

Throuterh Conductor.— A Special Guard accompanies each train throui?hont the entire 
.iourney between London afid Paris, and «ic« versoi, whose duty is to attend to the luggage;, act a-* 
iatflrpreter, and giv.i all inforrn^tlon and assistance to Passengers. 

Throogh Registering: of Iiusg^agre.— Passengers by the above Trains can Regi3t«r tlieir 
liUggage for Paris <iirocL. therebv avoiding Customs examination at Boulogne, or any care of tln«ir 
Luggage until arrival at Paris. Luggage for Paris can also be registorod at Itedhill and Folk«'.ston<'. 
Charge for registering, Is, per package; and the Luggage must be at Folkestone 1 hour, and the 
oth<»r stations 20 minutes before the hour for*8tarting, 

TtiroupTh Tickets^ as above, at the same rates as from London, are issued at Redhill (where 
the Train stops for Passenirers and from whence also Luggage can be registered) for the c<)nvenien«'o 
of tho^e proceeding vkl Reading Branch, and to faoUitate communication between tho Midland 
Districts and the Continent. 

FIXED CONTINENTAL SERVICE, VIA DOVER AND CALAIS. 



FROM LONDON. 



lAiiidon depart. ' 

Dover , 

<:alais „ 

PariM arrive. 

BriiHsels „ 

Cologne , 

♦ .Sundays excepted. 

TO 

C'olos;;ne depart. 

itrii8sel.S North Slat. .. 
RriiHHelA, .'^outh Stat. .. 

Paris ^ 

Calais 

Dover 

♦ Ma (ihent. T 



*1 3*) p.m. 

4 .30 „ 
8 „ 

5 .30 a m. 
+5 30 „ 






8 10 a.m. 
H „ 
2 p.m. 

10 20 „ 
8 50 ., 
5 a.m. 

+ Vhi Valenciennes. 

LONDON. 

11 30 p.m. 
*7 a.m. 
t8 



8 
II 

o 



30 p.m. 
1.) „ 

n a.m. 
10 ., 

10 ]:. „ 

4 l> 111. 



arrival. 



8 
3 

7 











G 30 A-. •.) l.">a m 


*12 20 a.m. 




*i] \) p. III. 


:!:J Op.ni. 




P ., 


1 45 „ 




7 :^o „ 


§10 30 ,, 




1* ;; > a.m. 


2 a.m. 




•'» '•^<» „ 


4 30 ,. 




7 1.-. .., 


Z »''■«* 


Vak 


'ncicnnt>. 



3 30 p.m. 

30 „ 
10 5 ,, 
T7(iJurbise and Toumay. 
S This >ioamcr does not sail from Calais on Saturdays. 

IjUffffaffe. -IJ^ til.' - "0 ;..m. train from T^ondon and the 7 30 p.m. train from Paris, Pa>senKer«i 
Lm?i»-.ge cin \>o ro.;M';r.Ml lor London durect, and vice versa, avoiding the Customs examination 
at Dover and Cjlnis. 

Offices for Through Tickets and Informations—London: Chief offices, London 
r.ridgo station: JO. Ke^'eit rircus. Piccadilly; 147, Cheapside. Paris: 4, Boulevard des Italians. 
JBriis.sels ; 74, Montasme de la Cour. 

-^o>y JFarosHfid aij/'urthor pAHicu^arB, 860 Timo Bookf, to be had as above. 
7^,,,^ . C. W. BBOltAX.!*, Manager. 



LONDON, BRIGHTON, ANB SOUTH COAST 

RAILWAY. 



PARIS 



XSD AJJL PAEl'S OF THE 



CONTINENT, 

VIA NEWHAVEN AND DIEPPE. 



'J'Sl iSiae^TSSiT AWB ^EMM'M^'i' mmT£. 



- -. ... « _. .. 



FARES THROUGHOUT: 

First Class 28s. | Second Class 20s, 



FOR Times of Sailing, and full particulars, see AdvertL»euu>iits in Bjiadsha'w*^ 
Guide for Great Britain and Ireland; also Bradshaw's CoNTiNENTAii 
Guide; the Times Newspaper; the Time Tables of the BRIGHTON ANI> 
SOUTH COAST, and the LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAH^WAY 
COMPANIES. 

Every information may be obtained respecting this Pleasant a^idlkautiful 
Monte on application in LONDON to 11. P. Mapl>:s, 5, Arthur Street East 
(opposite the Monument), London Bridge J at the London and Brighton Railway 
Offices, London Bridge^ and at all their various Stations*, a.W^^N^'^^^^sxisrC:"^ 
Offices, 43, Regent's Circus, Piccada\.y.—lsiTKB-\^>\.o \.,^,^^^'^'^^^"^^^" 
Je la Pnix; and at 35, Quai Henry TV ., DIEPPE. NV^^ 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



CHINA & GLASS ROOMS, 

Nos. 49 & 60, OXFOBD STBEET, 



JOHN W. SHARPUS 

Bms rMp€CiruUy to oall the attention of the Public to his IMMENSE STOCK, which It now replete 
with all Uie most Modem and Clasde Designs in China, Glass, Earthenware, Parian Statuary atid 
Bohemian Glass. 



DINNER SERVICES. 

£ p. d. 

Dinner Serrices, in a variety of colours, riohly gilt from S 3 6 

Handsomely Patnted and Gilt ditto ^ „ 6 15 6 

Handsome Coloured Bands, richly gilt „ 7 7 

A variety of rich patterns, equal to China, without its expense, at the same moderate prices. 

DESSERT SERVICES. 

De^rt Serrices fprn persons, in neat coloured borders .....V* * « from 110 

Ditto ititto antique Puffin's wreaths 18 

Ditto ditto or a variety of coloured bands, with gold and flowers, from 3 16 U 

300 PATTERNS OF TEA SERVICES. 

White and Gold 17 6 

Keat bands and flowers 18 

Neat pattern, handsomely gilt and painted from 2 2 

Kich pattern, feplendidiy gilt and painted, of most elaborate workmanship to 14 U 

GLASS DEPARTMENT. 

Partioularly neat cut Wine Glasses £0 Ti <% per dozen. 

And an immense varies u> 8 K „ 

Good Strong Tnmblers 4 6 ,. 

A great choice lo 2 2 „ 

Decanters ....„ trom 8 6 per pair. 

handsome cut and engraved ditto 110 „ 

Custard and Jelly Glasses from 4 6 per dosen, 

PARIAN FABRICS. 

The largest choice in London of Artistic Statuary, Vases, &o. 

BOHEMIAN GLASS. 

A ehole§ «f/«ctfeo from the two moit feao^mtd mkert* [T-Lt* 



I^qpm 



I THE NEW RE6ISTERED FORTHANTEin, 

SBGISTERED AND MASUFACTURED BY 

JOHN SOUTHGATE, 

re.WATLING SIEEET, 
LONDON. 

^^ 



THIS FORTMANTEAT T is a dmitted b; all vho bave used it to be the mocli 
PERFECT and USEFUL of anv vet inveDted, and to combine all tlia 
advantages bo long desired b; all wbo trava. 

The peculiar convemences of this Portmaotfaa are, that it contains Mpanita 
amipartmeiUa for each description of Clothes, Boots, &c,i each division is kept 
entirelj distinct, and is immediatelj accessible on opening the PortmaQtean, 
without lifting or disturbing anything elae. Ever; article is packed perfecti; fla^ 
and remains so during the tvhole of the journey. 




It may be obtsined of Mb. WlLKrasov, 30, Cockspur Street; . 

UooKK and Co., 14, St. Jame^s Street, London; of Mb. Hdht, Abore-Bar, 
Southampton; of Mb. Bats, Hatter, Cambridge; of Mb. Ellbvoeb, Orangep 
Street, ])Tewcastle-on-Tyne ; Mr. Pool, Trunk Maker, Hull and Leeds; MR. 
Lo¥E, Trunk Maker, Hull ; Mb. Northau, Trunk Maker, opposite St. Sidwelfs 
Church, Exeter; of most Ontfitt^^ and Saddlers throughout the Ki^omj and 
of 

mum ^©^rum^TEj 



76, WATIiINQ BTU'EEre, ^SVTE^. 



' AND T. ALJ.EN, 

I and 29, West Stnwi, L>ondon. 



ALLEN'S 

tJOtST DISPUCE BOX 

thavelung wRrriKG desk 




Dunteiu, and ti light 



< i;M>£ywf<A>nUMi,AamKt«D<m. 



ADVSRXISBMEKTS. 



I 



UGHT, CEEAf, AHP PUBAB LE BOOFIHa, 

CROGGON'S 

PATEHT iSPHALTE R00FIH6 FELT, 



AS ABOPTID BY 



Her Ifijetty's Woods and Forests, 

tter Mi^Jest/s Board of Ordnance, 

The Maytl Agricnltond Society of England, 

Tbe Leeds and Manchester, 

The London and North Western, 

The LlYerpool and Manchester, 

The Chester and Holyhead, 

The Norfolk, and other Raflwaya^ 



The Corporation of the City at Edinburgh, 
The Duke of Buceleugh, 
The Marquis of Anglesea, 
The Marquis of Westminster, 
The Birkenhead Dock Company, 
The Dock Trustees of LiTerpool, 
l&ost of the Nobililgr,- Gentry, and AgrionU 
turists, 



And many Members of the Royal Agricultural Societies of England, Scotland, and Ireland; 

XlliBOts A sftTing of half the Timber usually required; has been extendve^ used and pronounced 

effidoit, and parttenlarly ^>plicable for 

WARM CLIMATES. 

R k aaofk-eofidaetor.— It is portable, being packed in rol]& and Qot liable to damage in earriage.— It 
OM >■— ij atfUed by any unpractised per8on.~-From its lightness, weighing only 421bB. to thesquare 

of 100 feet, the cost of carriage is small. 

UHDEE SLATES, &c., 

In dmrob and other Booft, the Felt has been extensively used to Rxoulatk tbb TofPEBJunnn. 

iiroDOBOirs felt, 

FMrdaoipirans, and for damp floors under carpets and floor-cloths ; also for LININO IRON HOUSES, 

to equaUae the temperature. 

FBIOE ON E PENNY PER SqU ABE FOOT. 

PATENT FELTED SHEATHING FOR COVERINe SHIPS' BOTTOMS, ftc., ON WHICH 

THE COPPER LIES SMOOTH. 

DET HAIR FELT, 

FM DMdanisg Bound, and Covering Steam Boilers, Pipes &c., preventing the E«diation of Heat, 

thereby saying 

TWENTT-FIVE PEB CENT. OF FUEL. 



SAMPLES, TESTIMOmALS, AND IITLL INSTSUOnONS^ 01S( kFSl\A!;^WSy:s^ "V^ 

CBOOaON & CO., 2, LowsaXft'SSaL.^*^*^^ 




f 



ADTETtnSBMBKTB. 



GORDING'S 

WATERPROOFS 

AND 

CORDING'S FISHING BOOTS 

ARE THE BEST THAT CAN BE HAD. 



USEO'BV OmOEItt OF BOT H SERWCES. AMD FIRST SPOITrSMEII M THE WORLD. 

J. C. CORDING, 

231, STRAND, TEMPLE BAR, LONDON 



■HHBMR Aft HHH ^H BHHK VBM ^H ^ti MHK Jft IMi BAMK 



AND JEWELLERY 

OF FIRST QUALITY, AT 

LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES, 



SPOONS AND FOBKS ELECTRO-FLATED WITH FUEEST SILVEB 



GEORGE CORDING, 

232, STRAND, TEMPLE BAR, 



BRADSHAW'S 



ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK 



FOB TRAYELLEBS IN 



BELGIUM, ON THE RHINE, 

AND THBOUGH 

POETIONS OF EHENISH PEUSSIA. 



WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS, 



LONDON: 

W. J. ADAMS, BBADSHAWS OUIDB OFFICE. 59, FLEET 8T&EBT; 

UANCHBSTEB: BB^LDSHAW Ain> BLAOKLOCK, 47, BBOWN STBEET; 

UYBBPOOL: T. FAIBBBOTHER, 06, DACE STREET; 

BIRMINOHAH : J. GUEST, 62, BULL STREET ; SHEFFIELD : B CHADDERTON, MABKET FLAOB ; 

XDINBUBOH : HOODIE & LOTHIAN, 76. PRINCES STREET ; GLASGOW : J. BEID, U8. ABGTLB BTBKBI ; 

DUBLIN : A. CARSON. 51. GRAFTON STREET (Comer of Stephen's Green) : 

PARIS: LOUIS NICOUD BELLENOBR, BOOKSELLER. 319, BX7B BIVOLI. AND J. DAWB8> 
8, PLACE YENDOMB (Three Doors Irom the Bub St. Honoie) ; 

BBUSSELS: W. MIDDLETON, 94, MO.NTAGNB DB LA €X>UB. 

OommaploatioM haviiig reference to this bojk to be add r essed to the Editor, 89. Fleet Street, Londan. 

1866. 




4/^. '^ • ^« 



HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



IN 



BELGIUM, ON THE RHINE, 



▲KD 



THEOUGH POBHONS OF EHENI8H PBUSSIl 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 

SECTION I.— BELGIUM. 

PACIB. 

Diligences m...m. z. 

General View of Belgium — Works of Art, &c m....» adL 

BQred Carriages — Barriers— Roads ,^,., js. 

Hotels xL 

Money x. 

Passports ^ ix. 

Posting ; «.......«,....•..« z. 

Prices of Befresliments at Railway Stations <-..... iiL 

Hallway? ».. xix. 

Vigilantes » ^ .....mm xL 



SECTION n —THE RHINE. 

Expenses at Inns in Oennany ». ••.• m.m 86 

Hotel Charges in Prussia ......m. 85 

Inns ••• ••• •••••••••••• ..•M«>>t»«»«**»K>«a*»*.*«**.*>«*>«»*»****M>.<*.*M.*.*M«a.«*.(>.*«..«M.MMa«a.*.. OO 

passports •*• »»«««»»■»««««»»»»««»«««»»»«.»««»«««»»«»»»»»»«»»»»«»««»»»»»»»■».«.»«»«»»»«.«».«■•»..»«.».....•.•.»..»—..«.— (v 

Tables D'Hdte ..............*«*..................»...*......M...M*.M*...M.MM....M.MaM«* " 



SECTION I.-BELGIUM. 



BOVTS 1. 'Aff> 

XiOPdoti to Bmnds »■»■■■■■»»»■ !■■■■■■■■• — ■«■■»— 1 

(via Calais, Dover, Lllle, Courtny, 

Ghent and Malines). 

BOITTB 2. 

una to Brands m»«. 15 

BomrB 3. 

London to Braasels 17 

{joia Dover, Ostend, Brngei, Ghent 
and ICalines). 

Bomrs 4. 
London to Antwerp 23 

BOUTB 6. 

Bragea to Gourtray 80 

Bomrs 6. 
Conrtray to Tpres 31 

Bouts 7. 
BnuMlfl to Mons and Quievrain 31 

Bouts 8. 
BranelB to Charleroi and Namnr 47 



Bouts 9. '^^m 
Naonir to Uege - 60 

Bouts 10. 
Ghent to Antwerp ». 5S 

Bouts 11. 
Antwerp to Brofsels 66 

Bouts 12. 
Antwerp to Tnrnhout 66 

Bouts 13. 
Namar to Trerea. 67 

Bouts 14. 
Mods to BCanage 68 

Bouts 16. 
Charleroi to Morialme 69 

Bouts 16. 
Namnr to Dinant and Givet 69 

Bouts 17. 
Landen to St. Trond and Hanelt 4. 60 

Bouts 18. 
BrnaMla to Cologne 61 



SECTION II.-THE RHINE. 



Bouts 18a. ^am 

London to Botterdam 86 

Bouts 19. 
Botterdam to Nymegen 89 

Bouts 20. 
Arfaeim to Cologne 90 

Bouts 21. 
Cologne to Coblena , 92 

Bouts 22. 
CoUeni to Maycnce 104 

Bours 23. 
Ifayence to Frankfort 117 

Bouts 24. 
Bingen to Blayenoe 120 

Bouts 26. 
Saarbra<& to Trevet 120 



Bouts 26. rAo» 

Kayence to Meti ~ 124 

Bouts 27. 
Mayence to Strasburg « 124 

Bouts 28. 
Frankfort to Bade -, 138 

Bouts 29. 
Carlsrnhe (Oos) to Baden-Baden 147 

Bouts 80. 
Baden to Strasburg m. 161 

Bouts 81* 
Offenbnrg to Constance 162 

Bouts 82. 
Freiburg to Schaffhansen 166 



APPENDIX. 



VAOB 

V* UBDacien •••■•■•••...•••#•••■•..••.•••.........••.••.• loo 

"■^mourg >»»■■»■■»«—»—■■«■■■■»■»■■«»»«»» ..aw n i n — lu8 



TAOm 

oouwaiDaCu •••••••.••■•■.•*••■.••.••■•■.•.••■••■•■.•• io9 

Schlangenbad M*M.M.M.tM «•«•...«. ...^ 169 

The Mo8ene.-.Coblenti to Trerea ...m....~. 160 



PREFACE. 



Ths Hand-books hitherto published for the use of travellers on the Conti 
nent have been the subject of so much complaint and objection, both in reference 
'to their bulk and volmninons character, that the Publishers of the present volome 
determined to meet the requirements and oft-expressed wishes of the public, 
by undertaking the task of supplying to them Continental Hand-books, small 
and conyeuient in size, yet replete with all the descriptiye, historical, and other 
useful information so ably and faithfully given in the large volumes published by 
their contemporaries. And they trust that this effort of theirs wHl not be looked 
upon as an unwarrantable intrusion upon ground already occupied, nor yet as an 
unworthy rival to books of a larger and more elaborate description. 

The present Hand-book furnishes the traveller with a valuable com- 
panion in his tour through Bel^um and on the Rhine. And with a view to his 
convenience and information, we have given him a book small and compact, 
capable of being consigned to the pocket, or borne in the hand without trouble or 
annoyance; whilst it furnishes him with matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to 
he seen on his journey and in his visits, carefdlly selecting all the historical details, 
anecdotes of interest, and such other matters as we believe calculated to interest, 
whilst they instruct the English traveller, at the same time that we have 
excluded all that was dry or useless. In our descriptions of buildings and institu- 
tions, though we have not burdened our readers with the genealogical histories of 
their founders, proprietors, and architects, yet we have not confined ourselves to 
giving a mere catalogue of them, but we have furnished all that was valuable in 
connection with their histoiics, paintings, and architecture, at the same time that 
we have illustrated them by veiy beautiful wood-cuts and engravings. 

In all our arrangements we have observed, so far as possible, a simple and con- 
densed style; and wherever practicable have «v«a\<^ q'qs%^«^ ^^ ^gas^^si.^ 
correct infoimatioD ^fathered from othet soxixcw. IVv-ft Ti»X?ox^ ^t viass»s5L^ ^ 



Tiii. PBBJTACB. 

Yolmne tolerates little noyelly, and admits of no deviation from the principle on 
which such a work most bo essentiallj based. Books in foreign languages must be 
the chief sources of our information, modified bj personal observation and 
experience. 

We meet the traveller in England, impart to him the information necessary for 
the purpose of preparation, directing him in reference to the management of his 
passport and luggage at home and on the Continent; we lead him bj the most 
approved routes through his tour, and place before him every item of instruction 
useful to him in his journey. We do not, however, say that our work is faultless. 
Were it so, we should have achieved an impossibility, for we believe that Hand- 
books are " like watches, the worst better than none—the best cannot be expected 
to go quite true." We know the severe ordeal a Hand-book for travellers abroad 
has to pass through; we can thoroughly appreciate the merciless criticism which 
will test its truth when weighing its accuracy on the very spot described, but 
however we fearlessly and confidingly launch it forth, trustful in the forbearance 
of all, whilst hopeful that those who make use of it will kindly favour us by 
forwardmg to us corrections of any errors or inaccuracies they may discover in it. 

In conclusion, we can only remark that in the editing of the present volume we 
have aimed at the medium between an useless repetition of detail, and the annoy- 
ance of a tasteless brevity of description ; and trust the traveller may not find it 
less useful than interesting. 



--•'I 



INTEODUCTION 



Passpobts — ^MoNST-— PosTixo — ^Diligences, Hibed Cabbiages, Babbtkbis 
BoADS — ^Vigilantes — ^Belgian Hotels — ^Pbices of Ebfbbshment at tbm 
Belgian Railwat Stations — Genebal View op Belgium — Kailwats ih 
Belgium. 

PASSPORTS.— CUSTOM HOUSE. 

Bbttish subjects, on entering Belgium, are required to be proyided with either a 
Belgian passport, or a British or other passport, countersigned bj' a Belgian 
anthoiily. When only traversing Belgium, going to Prussia, British subjects will 
require British passports. Should this form be omitted, they will require the 
vis^ of the Prussian Minister in Belgium. On landing in Belgium without a pass- 
port in due form, travellers are exposed to be conducted, by the police, either to the 
consul or to the bourgmestre, before they are enabled to obtain a passport and 
continue their journey in Belgium. Passports and vis^ are obtained at the Consul's 
Office, Adelaide Chambers, 52, Gracechurch Street. Hours, from eleven to four 
Passports for Belgium only, are granted to British subjects on payment of 6s. 6d. 
Visas, ds. 9d. Travellers proceeding through Belgium to the Rhine, must enter 
their luggage for Cologne, where it is examined. Ambassador's residence, 20, 
IfOwndes Square. 

Monet. — ^Although in some places accounts are still kept in guilders and cents, 
French money is so generally current, that a traveller who confines himsel^to Bei« 
ipnm need not provide himself with any other. At all the large towns EngDitft 
foyereigns will be readily exchanged, and should command the full equivalent ol 
25 fr. 20 cts., or as near as possible, according to the rate of exchange. ^ A new gold 
eoin, 25 francs value, has recently been issued. The Belgian b8Ak\ssi^R.^^^^NK&^ 
the yalne of 1000, 500, 100, 50, 20, and 5 &«aca. 



xamoBVcncir* 
BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEl. 



BH«USH. 
8. d. 



1 Francs 100 centimes =20 sens 9^ 

SILTUB OOWS. 

^ Franc =25 centimes «... 2^^ 

^ Franc =50 centimes 4} 

5 Franc 4 

eoLD eoiKs. 

Lonis d'or= 24 francs 19 

Leopold d'or, Napoleon, or Twenty Franc Piece... 15 10 

PosTXCTG is now nearly obsolete, but a post is equiyalent to fiye Englishj or 
about one German mile, or to two Belgian or French leagues. The charge per 
post, for each horse, is 1 fr. 30 cts., and for each postillion that distance, 15 sous. 
Half a post extra is charged for post-horses arriving at Brussels or quitting it, and 
a fourth extra on quitting Ghent, Li^ge, Namur, and Mons. One horse is allotted 
by the posting regulation, to each person in a carriage, but the trayeller can take 
the full complement of horses required for his journey at the rate of 80 sous each, 
or he can take two or three at 30 sous, and without taking the rest, pay for the 
team at 20 sous. At this rate a party of four persons can travel in a light britska, 
drawn by two horses, paying 2 fr. extra for the two persons. By payment of 80 sous 
per post for their horses, three persons can travel with two horses. A berlin or 
landau will take three or four horses; a chariot, 3 ; a britzka, though canying the 
same number of persons, two. 

DILIGENCES, HIRED CARRIAGES, BARRIERS, ROADS. 

On all the high roads which have no railroad to compete with, diligences are found 
to run. They travel at the rate of about six miles an hour, and generally belong to 
private individuals licensed by government. 

HiBED Cabkiages. — ^A voiture, with two horses, can be engaged for abont 80 fr 
per da^, including 5 fr. to the driver. 25 fr. a day, back fare, must be paid (making 
-AA^i all 50fr. for carriage and horses. 

Basbiebs. — ^There is a toll-gate each league, at which four-wheeled carriages 
are charged 10 cents., and each horse 20 cents., the return included. 

Roads. — ^In general the Belgian roads are paved, thus rendering travelling orer 
Aem rer^ fatigmng, especiall/ to ladies. 



niTBODvoiioir* 



VIGILANTES. 



A kind of cab called bj the above name can be hired for 1 fir., or before 7 ajn. 
for l^fr^ which will conyey the trayeller and his luggage to his resting place. He 
should take one at once on his arrival, and thus save himself the annoyance he is, 
otherwise, sure to suffer firom porters and commissionaires o^ the hotels. 

The general tariff is 1 fr. per course, and, if engaged by the hour, 1^ ft, the fint 
hour, and 1 fr. each hour afterwards. 

BELGIAN HOTELS. 

The following are the average charges: — From 1^ to 2^ fr. for bed; table dlidte, 
S to 8 fr.; dinner in a separate apartment, by one's self, 5 fr.; supper at table dlidto^ 
1 fr. 50 cents, to 2 fr.; a bottle of Bordeaux vin ordinaire, 3 fr.; breakfasl^ with eggs 
and meat, Ifr. 50 cents.; coffee, tea, and bread and butter, 1 to l^fr.; servants^ 
50 cents, to 1 fr. each. 



FBICES or REFRESHMENTS AT THE BELGIAN RAILWAY 

STATIONS. 

BUFFBTS-SESTATJRANTS ETABLIS DANS LES STATIOKS DB MALINBS, TIBLBMQIin!^ 
IiAVDEN, UBOE, PEPINSTER, VEBVIEBS, OAND, COURTRAI, UOUSCBOK, ^SAINB-IJh 
OOMTE, £T QUIEVBAIK. — TABI7 DBS COMESTIBLES ET BOISSONS. 



BonOIon 

Booflitok MIX ponunes de terre, ayec pain 

Boutbeef ftux pommes de terre, svec pain 

VIM de boenf rdti 

Deaz cdtelettes de mouton 

Portion deveau chaud on odtelettes avec) 

ponunee de terre m, ) 

Vdrttoa de pdnlet chaud 

ViMifroidaTeoun petit pain 

Jambon id. id 

Boenf sal6 id. id 

LaogiMftmifie id. id. 

Fooletfroid, la portion 

Fromage 

Id. Anglais 

tnn petit pain benrr6 

Id. aanebearre 

Id. beurre et fromage 

PQeCtawr (eafS on th^ pain et beurre) ... 

CaCS^lademi'taHe •...M.M.M.MM..W....M... • 



cts. 
30 
76 
76 
76 
76 

60 

90 
40 
40 
40 
40 
76 
10 
16 
7 
6 
16 
00 



BiBBSS. 

Une bouteille de Faro on de Dlest ......m. 

Le verre .......»• 

Une bouteille ou cruohe, de Iambic.......^ 

Une bouteille de Louvain .....m. 

Le verre „.m 

Une bouteille de BiSre de Bari^e 

Bilre brune, le Terre „ 

VlFS. 

Yin de Bordeaux ordinaire ...la bonteUle 

Id. id la 4 id. 

Id. de St. JuUen ...la bontellle 

Id. id. Ja i id. 

Id. de St. Emilion la bouteille 

Id. de St. Est^phe id. 

Id. de Cabarus, long bouchon, pr^mI6re) 

quality la bouteille) 

Id. de Cabaruflylongbottchon, 8eeonde\ 

quanta ...>a.\yKM!u!Sfi2^ 



ft. elib 



80 
10 
40 
84 

8 
76 

8 

• 

60 
SI 
68 
00 



8 M 



"^ ^ 



a& \ U. te Cb&JMBA-UMCVNZL 



VS« 



^ ^ 



zu 



DTTBODUOnOK. 



f . e. 

YlndeVolney Uiboatellle 3 

Id. dePommard id. 3 

Id. deNuits » id. 3 

Id. deChfiblis id. 3 

Id. de Moselle id. 3 60 

Id. de Grave, prem. quality id. 3 50 
Id. id. seconde id. id. 3 

U. de Tours id. 2 60 

Id. de Rbin, pr4m. quality... id. 4 
Id. id. seconde id. id. 3 50 

Champagne mousseiuc id. 6 

VlNS DR LIQUKUR. 

liad^ leverre 60 

Malaga id. 50 

Muscat id. 50 

Trontignan ou Lunel Id. 50 

Porto id. 60 

Shfirxy (Xkr^) id. 60 



LiQUKUBs. f. e. 

Scbiedluun leverre 10 

Amer de Hollande id. 10 

£au.de-Vie id. 10 

Cognac, Rhum, Ki'sch id. 25 

Liqu urs fines de toute espdce ... id. 26 

Marasquin id. 40 

Punch IL Teau cnaude «• id. 25 



Bafraichissshbnt. 

Sirop de Rrotseille, de miires. de framO 
boises, de limon, ou de puncb,Ie verre) 

Limonade ou orgeat id. 

Grog ou orgeat .•• id. 

Eau suoree avee eau de fleur d'oranger) 

leverre) 

Cigares et tabacs 



025 

26 
030 

20 



Carbiages. — Carriages of 2 wheels are charged 8 fr. from Quievrain to Mons, 
and 32 fr. to Brussels ; those of 4 wheels, 12 fr. from Quievrain to Mons, and 48 
fr. to Brussels ; and of 2 wheels, 44 fr. from Mouscron to Brussels. 

Bogs. — ^Dogs are charged at the rate of third class fare. 

Private Cabriages. — Persons travelling in private carriages pay third class 
fare in addition to the charge for the carriage. 



GENERAL VIEW OP BELGIUM. 

Belgium was formerly identified with the kingdom of the Netherlands, but has 
ranked as a separate and independent kingdom since 1830. In the August of that 
year the Belgian provinces revolted, and threw off the yoke of Holland. On the 4th of 
October following, the independence of the kingdom was proclaimed by the 
provisional government, and recognised in the month of December by the allied 
powers of Europe. 

The National Congress assembled at Brussels in 1881, and offered the throne of 
tiie new kingdom to the Duke of Nemours, which, on the son's behalf was refused 
by his father, the late Louis Philippe, then King of the French. The next choice ot 
the National Bepresentives fell upon Prince Leopold of Saxe Coburg, widower, ot 
the Princess Charlotte of England, who ascended the throne, and took the oaths pre- 
scribed by the constitution, on the 22nd July, 1831, in the presence of the assembled 
representatives of the nation. Scarcely had Leopold assumed the sovereignty of Bel- 
^am thaa he coneladed 3 treaty with the Courts of Great Britain, Bnssia, Anstrii^ 



XFTRODVonoxr. zlii. 

France, and Frassia, fixing the boundaries of the new kingdom, and goaranteeing 
to the King free and peaceable possession cf the states recognising his soyereigntj. 

The Belgic territory is small when compared with other European nations, it 
being no more than one-eighth of that of Great Britain, and having a population of 
KtUe more than 4,000,000 ; yet the important position which it has occupied in the 
political, military, commercial, and agricultural history of Europe, its former cele- 
brity in manufactures and the fine arts, and its present rapid progress in every 
industrial pursuit and social improvement, invest it with a peculiar interest for the 
historian, the traveller, and the student. 

Its territory, as defined by the treaty before spoken of, which was signed in 
London, on the 15th November, 1831, consists of the provinces of South Brabant 
I/i^e, Limbourg, Kamur, Hainault, West and East Flanders, Antwerp, and Luxem- 
bourg; some districts particularly described, and part of the Grand Duchy of 
Luxembourg being excepted. 

The general outline of the territory is a triangular figure, the longest side 
of which extends on the French frontier from a point midway between Fumes and 
Dunkirk, to one 9 miles south-east of Arlcn, or 52 miles E. from Longroy. The parts 
ceded to Holland, and to which we alluded above, are — first, a portion of the province 
of Luxembourg, on the E. of an irregular line drawn from the point just mentioned 
to one on the Prussian frontier, about 17 miles S. of Malmedy; and secondly, 
the portions of Limbourg, on the W. of the river Mease, including the city of 
Maestricht in a deviating curve, and on the north of a line from Stevensweirt, on the 
Meuse, to one on the Dutch frontier, 4 miles W. of Wiert. 

The kingdom, as thus described, is bounded on the north by the Dutch province 
of Limbourg, and by North Brabant and Zeeland; on the north-west by the North 
Sea; on the S.W. and S. by the departments of the Fas de Calais, Nord, 
Ardennes, and Moselle, in France; and on tho E. by the Dutch portion of the 
Grand Duchy of the Lower Ehine. 

CjTTL Divisions. — Brussels is the capital, and seat of government; for the 
administration of which the kingdom is divided into the 9 provinces above enume- 
rated, 44 arrondissements, 98 towns, and 2,641 rural communes; for military 
purposes it is di^-ided into 9 commanders, corresponding to the 9 provinces ; and, 
lastly, for judicial proceedings, it is divided into 29 arrondissements, and 237 cantons. 

Area aitd Fopulation.— Belgium lies between 49** 31 and 51«^ 27' N. latitude, 
and between 2^ 3 and and 6* E. longitude. Its greatest length from S.E. tc 
N. W. is 173 English miles, and its greatest breadth, measured va.^K'fe^!cct'^^^^s^ 
8. S. W., from the most northern part of t\ie ^to^waicfe o1 KstoR«^> ^^ •Qaa^Btfj!©. 



JKff* niTBODUOXIOIli 

■oothem part of the pfovince of Hainanlt, 112 nulefl. Its area is computed to be 
8^262,^58 hectares, equal to 8,044,828 English acres, or 12,569 English square miles, 
and it has population of 4,064,285, exhibiting for ererj square mile 823 inhabitants. 
Gbnbbal Aspeot of thb Countbt.— The K. and W. provinces of Belgium, 
In their flatness, fbrtilily, dykes, and canals, may be regarded as a continuation of 
'Holland* This portion of the country is so densely populated that it presents to the 
tiaTeller the appearance of one continuous Tillage. The S. and E. provinces 
hftTe an opposite character, being generally more thinly populated, less cultivated, 
and exhibiting a most irregular mountainous surface, with tracts of marshy lands 
and extensive forests. With the exception of three hilly districts in the south and 
•ast, the entire territory presents the appearance of a series of nearly level plains, 
traversed by numerous streams, delightfolly diversified by woods, arable lands, and 
meadows of brilliant verdure, enclosed by hedge rows; and thickly studded 
throughout with towns and villages. In surveying the general face of the coimtiy, 
and proceeding from west to east, we observe that the coast is uniformly flat, and 
formed of flue loose sand, which, by the frequent action of the sea winds, is raised 
into gently undulating domes or dunes. These banks of sand extend, nearly without 
interruption from Dunkirk, along the entire coasts of Belgium and Holland. In 
breadth they vary from one to three miles, and rise in the highest parts to 40 or 50 
feet. They are formed entirely by the operation of the sea waves in elevating the 
deep sands of the shore, and, since they serve as a natural barrier against the 
encroachment of the ocean, it is an object of great importance to check their 
constant tendency to advance inland. For the purpose, therefore, of rendering the 
sand compact and stationary, the dujies are sown with a species of reed (arundo areni 
earea), until a sufficient stratum of vegetable mould is collected to support plantations 
of flrs (Pmus MaroHmus), with which most of the Belgic dunes are generally 
covered. 

Though no part of the surface of Belgium is actually below the level of the sea, 
like that of Holland, yet, in common with the latter, its shore in some parts is 
defended from the encroachments of the ocean by broad and elevated dykes ; and 
whole districts, which were formerly alluvial morasses, have been gained entirely 
from the bed of the sea, after being dramed and embanked. Tbe embanked 
enclosures of this description are called polders. On the sea coast, and along the 
lower banks of the Scheldt, they are very numerous, and some contain above 1,000 
acres of rich alluvial soil, which is appropriated with great advantage to the purposes 
of agriculture. 
To tie sotttb-east of tbe du/tes the prorinces of West and East Slanders and 



iMTBouuonoN- inr. 

HainaTilt form a far-stretching plain, the luxuriant yegetati^n of which indicatefl 
the indefatigable care and labour bestowed upon its cultivation, for the natural soil 
eonflists almost wholly of barren sand, and its great fertility is entirely the result of 
TCiy skilful management and judicious application of rarious manures. The 
undulations in the surface of the northern districts is yery slight, and the northern 
parts of the proyince of Antwerp are less varied and fertile than any other. The 
BoH is for the most part composed of pure sand, very partially mixed with argiUaceons 
earth. The largest unbroken plain in Belgium is called Campine, comprising the 
north-east portion of Antwerp and north-west of Li^ge. It consists of marshes 
desolate moors, peat bogs, and extensive tracts of sand, covered with heath, broom, 
and firs. Some parts, however, consist of natural prairies, that serve as pasturage 
for extensive herds of excellent horses, and the portion of Limbourg, on the banks 
of the Meuse, is fertile and carefully cultivated. The character of Brabant 
resembles that of Flanders with respect to its beautiful fields, and gardens, and 
luxuriant trees. In the province of Liege the north bank overlooks a fertile plain, 
producing all kinds of grain and vegetables, and affording excellent pasturage for 
cattle and for dairy husbandry; but the country on the south bank of the river 
belongs to the mountainous district which constitutes the provinces of Luxembourg 
and Namur. The course of the Meuse, from Durant to Maestricht, ofiers some very 
picturesque combinations of landscapes and rock scenery. The river is closely shut 
in by lofty cliffs of various hues. Here they overhang the river, and are beautifully 
shrouded with bushes of box, wild myrtle, and ivy, and there they slope away to its 
margin, or are vertically cleft asunder, presenting through the chasm a delightful 
view of highly-cultivated farms and villages, half hidden by trees, in the distant 
highlands. The wild state of nature in the provinces of Namur, Li^e, and Luxem- 
bourg, the various fossils and mineral products, and the charms of the scenery, 
have long made this part of the country a favourite of the naturalist, the geologist, 
and the painter. 

Climate. — ^The climate of Belgium is pure and healthy, but subject to much 
variation in its general character. 

The Gk>YERNM£NT is a limited constitutional monarchy, and the succession to fhe 
ttirone confined to the direct male issue, perpetually excluding females and their 
descendants. The legislative power is vested in the King and two chamberg, — ^the 
Senate and the House of Eepresentatives, — the members of which are elected by 
the people paying 30s. direct taxes annually. The number of representatives cannot 
exceed 1 to every 40,000 people, and in all cases the representative must be a BeL^jan. 
by birth or naturalisation. The King enjoys the "]^o^cji ^l ^aajw^wSawit '^^'^ ^5i»ss5s!«» 



ZTL IMTBODUCnOK. 

either together or separately, bat the decrees of dissolution must contain an edict 
oouYoking the elective body within 40 days and the chambers within two months. 
Both chambers are elected by the people, and the upper one, or senate, consists of 
but one-half the number constituting the lower chamber. A senator must be a 
Belgian resident within the kingdom, and 40 years old, and be rated as paying 
annually 1,000 florins direct taxes — ^something about jE84 sterling. The membera 
of the House of Representatives are paid at the rate of £16 16s. monthly for their 
services during the session, but the senators, or members of the upper chamber 
receive no pay. 

Abts and Sciences. — Since Belgium became an independent nation, a great 
spirit of emulation and desire of improvement have arisen amongst all classes of the 
population. Energies have been awakened which have already achieved much in the 
cause of social and intellectual advancement, and which promise to accomplish more 
in the same honourable career. The government sustains and encourages the 
progress of science, learning, the fine arts, and literary tastes. Pensions are given 
to talented young men to enable them to develope the powers of their genius in 
foreign countries, by studying the works of the great masters; and a national 
CKhibition is opened every year, in the large towns and cities successively, in which 
are displayed the paintings, sculptures, engravings, and designs of the best artists. 
The most meritorious works are rewarded bjr medals of gold, silver, and bronze. 

MAmrERS AND Customs. — ^The Belgians fiave been successively subjected to the 
influence of so many difierent governments, that they, consequently, possess no 
distinctive and peculiar national character. The apathy and persevering industry 
of the Dutch is blended with the vivacity and self-assurance of the French, without 
producing an agreeable compound. The difierent provinces exhibit some variety of 
character and manners. On the borders of Holland the people are generally similar 
to the Dutch, and adopt their customs, amusements, and dress. But in the southern 
districts they difler little from the French, in appearance, habits, manners, costume, 
or language. The Belgians have always displayed a passionate love for social 
liberty, an impatience of control, that embroiled them with all their different rulers, 
and involved them in ruinous disasters during many successive centuries. Writers 
of all ages agree in describing them as the most restless, unruly, tumult-loving 
mortals in existence, always treating their best rulers the worst, while the bad 
overawed them. In the history of no other country do we find such unbounded 
liberty, with such an invincible disposition to abuse it. 

Langttaob. — ^About one-third of the population speak French (the Picard and 
WaUotm dialects), the other two-thirds, Flemish. It m%y be said that the boundaries 



msoiDuonoii* ZTii 

of Uio FrencA and Flemish languages may be marked by a line, drawn east from 
GvaTelines to the Lys, and along that riyer to Menin, and thence east again to the 
Vens^ hy the south of Brussels and Lourain, between Maestrecht and Li^, 
Boatb of this line French is spoken, and Flemish north of it. A more undulating 
line, drawn fix>m Menin to the frontier near Chimay, and intersecting the country 
1)etween Valenciennes and Mons, would draw a demarcation between the two dialectf 
of the French spoken in Belgium. On the west of this line the Ficard dialect is 
spoken, and the Walloon on the east of it. 

WoBKs OF Art. — School of FAurriNG. — ^Belgium can boast of a brilliant 
histoiy, not alone in reference to architecture; in her school of painting, we 
find an eminent degree of perfection characterising its productions, whilst its masters 
and students hare been signally remarkable for their perfection in the art. This 
school may be looked upon as dating from two separate epochs, and may be 
designated the schools of Van Eyck and Rubens. The founders of the eady school 
were the brothers Aubert and John Van Eyck, who are said to hare lived between 
1370 and 1445. The tone and character of their works, with those of their scholars, 
and the degree of perfection with which they had been executed, may be easily 
leaned from their numerous productions stUl existing in Belgium, forming, as they 
do, a great attraction, and the study of which becomes a special object of interest in 
a Belgian tour. The trayeller of taste will appreciate them as equalling, if not 
•nxpassing, in their excellence, the productions of their European contemporaries. 
So &r back as 1358, a guild of painters was established at Bruges. This corpo- 
ration of artists, in the reign of Philip the Good, enjoyed a deservedly emment 
reputation, and in the days of Van Eyck we find, registered on its records, above 
three hundred names, constituting, as a whole, the most celebrated school of that 
period. 

Though Van Eyck cannot be said to be the inventor of oil painting, yet he cannot 
be denied the credit of having been the perfector of, and may in some measure be 
esteemed the father of the art. The perfection to which he brought oil pamting is 
ftifly seen, to the present day, in the deep brilliancy and liveliness discernible in all 
bis works, which, by the freshness and perfect preservation of -their colours, excite 
the wonder and admiration of every traveller. And it is also certain that his school 
must hare achieved a high character for proficiency in this department, since we 
find Antonello of Menina, an Italian artist, travelling into Flanders in order to 
acquire a knowledge of it, though, two hundred years previously, oil painting had 
been practised «n Italy. 

With the works of Van Eyck and bii \)to1iict m\!J^\>^ ^j»Q(eL^\.^^^»sA"^^^B^s^ 



xriii DTTBODnoiioir. 

another artist of the same school, whose chtf^camm exist in Bruges, in the Academy 
and Hospital of St. John. 

In studying the productions of the early Flemish school we must not forget that 
their path was a new and entirely original one. Without the classic works of 
antiquity to guide them, or the great models of later times to imitate, they were 
ibrced by the necessity of circumstances to fall back upon the Yolume of nature; 
from it they took their models, and hence that fonnality, and stiffiiess, and meagre- 
ness of outline, so unpleasantly combined with a want of refinement in their works, 
which defects are more than covered by the eleyated sentiment, sacred solemnity, 
and tmthfal force of expression marking them. Through the works of Quentin 
Matsys, Frans Moris, De Yos, the Bringhaes, &C., down to Otto Yennius and 
Bnbens, we can distinguish the progress of the flemish school. 

SoHOOL OF BuBENS. — Bubeus and his illustrious pupil Yandyke may be looked 
upon as the presiding geniuses of the second epoch in the history of the Belgian or 
IFlemish school. We cannot, in any language of our own, better exhibit the 
character of the school, than that in which the head of it is described by Sir Joshua 
Keynolds, in the following extract: ''The eleyated situation in which Bubens stands 
in the esteem of the world, is a sufficient reason for some examination of his pre- 
tensions. His fame is extended over a great part of the continent without a rival; 
and it may be justly said that he enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, 
by the great examples of art which he left, but by what some would think a more 
solid advantage — ^the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his works 
continiially invited to Antwerp. To extend his glory still farther, he gives to Paris 
one of its most striking features, the Luxembourg Gallery; and if to these we add the 
many towns^ churches, and private cabinets, where a single picture of Bubens 
confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the first rank of illustrious 
painters." 

In the present age, Belgium possesses a School of Living Artists, whose pro- 
ductions, especially those historical ones of Wappers de Eeyzer, Bufre, Maes, &c 
can bear competition with the best productions of the other schools of the 
.present day. 

Abchitectusb has been carried to its highest degree of perfection in the cor- 
struction of the cathedrals and town halls of Belgium, which display the finest 
specimens of the ornamental Grothic style of the middle ages. In England, Gothic 
srchitecture is confined chiefly to churches, but in Belgium it is shewn to be equally 
suitable to civic edifices and private dwellings. Fronts richly.decorated with quaint 
aad JkDtJistic sculptures, lofty sloping roo&, full of windows, pointed gables 



castellated towers, battlomeiits, and projecting windows, combine to produce a 
general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, delights the spectator. 

MAHUTACTUitES. — ^Thc iudustiy of the Flemings has within 200 years converted a 
tract of land, once a sandy and barren heath, into a beautiful garden ; and the product 
<yf its wheat is often not less than sixteen to one, and oats ten to one, whilst scarcely 
in any part of Britam does wheat give more than eight or ten to one. East and 
West Flanders alone produce annually flax to the amount of £1,600,000. The coal 
mines of Hainault produce more than those of the whole of France ; and the annual 
quantity raised in Belgium is 2,000,000 chaldrons. More than 150,000 tons of iron 
are annually founded. The cloth manufactures at Yerviers employ 4,000 men; and 
the cotton manufacture, notwithstanding the loss of the Dutch colonial markets, 
has improved steadily since 1830, and now represents a capital of £3,000,000 
sterling. Commerce has greatly increased in Belgium lately. The principal exports 
are the productions of its flourishing agriculture and numerous manufactures, such 
as com, bran, coal, oil, lace, woollen and cotton cloths, linen, canvas, arms, 
cutlery, and ironmongery. The woollen manufacture may be said to constitute 
the staple manufacturing trade of Belgium. At all events it is the object of immense 
industry, and a quantity of foreign wool, to the value of 14,000,000 frs., or 
£583,833 6s. 8d. sterling, is consumed annually. Carpets, flax, and linen also 
constitute important items in the manufactures of Belgium. The cotton manufac- 
ture in Belgium represents a capital of 60,000,000 frs. in buildings and machinery, 
and the number of hands employed is at least 122,000. A brisk trade is likewise 
carried on in silk, lace, ribboi^, hosiery, hats, leather, oil-cloth, paper, and 
lithography, &c. 

CoMMBBCB. — ^The conmierce of Belgium at present extends its relations to 
numerous parts of the world, and includes almost every indigenous and foreign 
production. The average amount of value it represents may be estimated at 
860^000,000 francs— that is, 210,000,000 of imports and 150,000,000 of exports. 
The external commerce of Belgium suffered greatly by the revolution in 1830, as 
Holland has since retained and monopolised the trade with all the colonies which 
belonged to the kingdom of the United Netherlands. 

Religion.— The Boman Catholic is the religion of the state, but the King is 
a Protestant, and every other form of faith has free exercise. 

Railways. — ^Belgium is the first state in Europe in which a system of railways 
has been planned and executed at the public cost ; and certainly it is an honotisA&k^s^ 
distinction to have given the first example oi «\iJ53fiL ^ TLiaSctfswSl «»^ ^i!j«saa«»R 
provirion of the means ot rapid coiimiTia\ca.\.\QT!u l^*^ \ssA«evs>5Kxa% "^'^^ ^ 



urrjiODUcnoN* 

projected in 1833, and the object proposed was to unite the principal commercial 
towns on one side with the sea, and on the other with the frontier of France and 
Frossia. In this respect Belgium is most fayourably situated for the experiment 
of a general system of railroads. It is compact in form, moderate in size, and is 
surrounded on three of its sides by active commercial nations, and on the fourth 
bj the sea, by which it is separated only a few hours* Yoyage from England. On 
the west are the two large and commodious ports of Antwerp and Ostend, and 
its east frontier is distant only a few leagues from the Bhine, which affords a 
connection with the nations of central and southern Europe. It is therefore in 
possession of convenient markets for its productions, and of great facilities for 
an extensive transit trade. The physical nature of the country is also most 
favourable, being for the most part very flat, and requiring but few of those 
costly works of levelling, tunnelling, and embanking which serve to increase so 
enormously the expense of similar undertakings in England. 



THE RHINE. 
There are rivers whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, 
but none which unites almost every thing that can render an earthly object mag- 
nificent and charming, in the same degree as the Bhine. As it flows down from 
the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions into the open sea, so it 
comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous 
events in the history of the neighbouring nations. It rises in the Swiss canton 
of the Grisons from three principal sources. Before it falls into the lake oi 
Constance, it forms the celebrated cataract of Schafiliausen, in the canton Oi 
Ziirich, where the river is closely hemmed in by rocks. After having touched 
several cantons of Switzerland, also Austria, Baden, France, Bavaria, Hessia, 
Nassau, Prussia, &c., it divides into several branches. Vessels of from 300 to 450 
tons go up the river to Cologne, those of 125 to 200 to Mayence, and those of 
100 to 125 as far as Strasbourg. Steam Boats render communication easy; 
and so familiar has steam communication rendered us with the banks of the 
Bhine, that it has become an ordinary summer trip with the inhabitants of this 
countiy. 



BELGIUM 

ROUTE 1.— LONDON TO BRUSSELS, 

BT CALAIS, DOYEB, LILLB, COTTSTBAT, GHENT, Al^D UALI29ES. 



TRATRXJEsa intending to proceed by this route 
ilurt from London Bridge, and for 6^ miles pro. 
eeed through a beautiful country, which presents 
the aspect of a rtw In wrbc, being diversifled inits 
sylvan idiaracter, and having Its rural beauty 
heightened and embellished by the picturesque 
T&las, stately mansions, and sweet cottages hiter- 
ipersed on every side along its delightftil borders. 
At Sydenham, to the right of the railway, the 
Orystal Palace, removed from its original site in 
U^de Park, greets the view, presenting the iq^ 
pearanee of a massive and colossal temple, such 
as ancient or modem days have not before wit- 
nessed, and in which dwells the g^iius of peace, 
r e p re s enti ng the combined elements of human 
industry, enriched by the triumphs of science in 
every department of its creative power and de> 
vdoped effidenoy, both in reference to novel 
tBTventlon and improved principles. The tourist, 
«a be is wlilrled along, cannot fidl to be hiter. 
«sted by even a transitory survey of its giant-like 
pMpoitlons and ardiitectnral design, whilst its 
g«neral aspect bursts upon the astonished vidon, 
Its Tefleetive grandeur shooting forth, if the 
day be dear and sunny, a flood of light, bril- 
Uaat and gorgeous in its efliilgence, givirg it 
Hm i^pesranoe of some glittering palace, such as 
poets paint in tbefar fandfbl and ideal visions of 
those sunny lands where Eastern magnificence 
aad Asiatic grandeur characterise and adorn 
the regal sdions erected in the land of princes. 
Passing rapidly from here, the remaining portion 
of the Journey to Dover is effected through an 
extent of country richly cultivated, tasteftdly laid 
eotk and dotted with many very beautiful rest- 
denoes, but exhibiting in its general i^ipearanoe 
Bottling spedally intereating, beyond Uie ordinary 
elegance, and sofl^ chaste beaoly ^*ft*ngw^thing 
En g lk h lAudao pea. 



Arrived at Dover, luggage, &c., being duly 
attended to, the steam-boat is boarded: slie 
starts, and after a trip of about two hours the 
chalky clifik of England are lost sight of; shortly 
after which, amid noisy ezdamaUons and shrill 
vociferations, the tourists^ after ei\)oying about 

half an hour's huddling about, disembark at 

Calais.— Hotels : 
Hotel Quillac, one of the oldest and most respect- 
able establishments on the Continent It 
is well known and highly and deservedly 
recommended. 
Hotel Dessein. 
Hotel de Paris. 

The proper and most advantageous course for 
parties to adopt on arrival here (providing they 
are not gohig to remain in Calais) is to proceed 
direct to the passport ofSce in the railway station, 
situated within the predncts of the terminus, 
and procure the proper visa to their passports; 
after which they should proceed to an adjoining 
room, and tiave their luggage examined. This 
examination can be avoided by declaring it **for 
transit,** to Brussels or Cologne. 

Calais is a second-class fortress, and contains 
about 12,000 inhabitants. It is surrounded by 
sand-hfUs on one side, and l^ morasses on the 
other, which, though detracting from its beao:^, 
yet adds muoh to its military strength. The town 
is situated in a very barren and non-picturesque 
district. It has latterly been ro-fortiAed, and 
its works strengthened considerably perticulariy 
totheseacoast. Its harbour, which has l>een much 
improved and lengthened, is defended by several 
Sfcall forts, and consists of a large quay, ter- 
minated by two long wooden piers^ fltcotateiaM^ 
taito the aaa. \\a VB&ba^VuHDi(a vt% eGiis5i&^ ^r!^ 
ga«e^ Vd \)&ia \i«n\n% *sA ^sa^v-i^^^wi x»^ 
and cam wl % wsMSAawW*^ v«»fi^ >»^^^ 



CALAIS TO LILLE. 



[Rontel 



•plrits. CaUte bas lately taken to encourage 
nanufkctiiring eatablishmenis — the bobbin-net 
iUtUe) trade is carried on there with great Tigoor, 
In oppoaition to a similar branch of trade in 
^England. Sereral mills ha^e beoi established, 
steam-engines haye also bean introduced in 
increased numbers, and fitctories have been 
erected withbi the inner ramparts. It is stated 
tliat 66,000,000 of eggs are annually exported 
flrom this place to England. 

The ^er of Calais is three-quarters of a mile 
In tength, and is used as an agreeable promenade. 
On a qpot of it is seen the piUar erected to oom- 
memorate the return of Louis XVin. to France. 
It originally bore the following inscription :— <**Le 
24 Avril, 18U, S. M. Louis XVIU. debarqua 
▼is SUtIs de Cette Colonne et fht enfin rendu 
a ramour des Fran^ais; pour en perp^tuer le 
■omrenir la rille de Calais a &»r6 ce monument." 
His Mijesty Louis XVUI. disembarked beside 
tide oohmm <m the 24th of April, 1814, and was 
at last restored to the Ioto of the French people. 
Vhe town of Calais erected this oolumn to com- 
memorate the event. A brasen plate was fixed 
on the exact spot where the Monarch's foot 
■lero^ ^ order to ftxrther commemorate the 
act; bat at thereroluticm of 1830 both plate and 
insor^on were effaced, leaving the pillar to 
stand as a montmient of the eapriciousness of 
Frendk enthusiasm. Calais has very little to 
Intflnst ; and though one or two inddents in its 
history are fraught with ^toep hxteres^ particu- 
lariy the recent embaroatfon of Frendi troops on 
board of English ships for the Baltic, yet its ob- 
jects of attraction are few, and may be vidted in 
about two hours. Its principal gate, built hi 1635 
by Cardinal Bididleu,and figured by Hogarth in 
his celebrated picture^ is worth a short inspec- 
tion. The Hdtd de Guise will also interest the 
AigHsh traveller, as having been the place niiere 
Hemy Vin. lodged, and as the original building 
vhere was estaUished the guild hall of the may or 
and aldermen of the ** staple of wool," founded 
in 1868 by EdWIurd m. The Hdtd de Ville, or 
Town HaD, dtnate in the market place, will 
npayavldt. ITithin it are all the public offices, 
tnd the frcmt of it is ornamented with busts of 
St. Pierre, of the DukeofOidse, and of Cardinal 
de Blchelieu. It is surmounted by a bdfiry, 
0aotmia&^ m Odme of heXii, The tower and 
«i"9K4r artbeprtao^mlOtareb, bum whim dOais 



appertained to England, deserves attention. 
Immediately to the rear of the choir is a modern 
drcular chapel, and the diurch itself is a fine 
structure^ built in the early Gothic style. 

The ramparts around the town and pier form 
admirable prometuMl«s. The basse-ville^ or lower 
town, is a pleasant walk on a fSte day. The 
new light house should be vidted. It is one of 
the most beautiftal works of mechanism in the 
world. The view firom the summit of the tower 
presents a panoramic scene of great beauty, 
comprising, on a dear day, the distant diflb of 
Bnghmd, and the outlines of Dover Castle. The 
public cemetery outside the town contains the 
ashes of Lady Hamilton (Nelson's Emma^ ^^ 
exi^red here, destitute and impoverished. 

The railway from hence to Lille, enables pas- 
sengers to proceed direct by rail to Brussels ai^ 
aU parts of Bdgium; also to Douai and Farix^ 
TravePers proceeding to Belgium or Germany 
win avoid mudi trouble by informing the autho- 
ritles of their place of destination, and by what 
train theyiotena to proceed; their luggage shon.^ 
then be duly marked for fraTisit, and tliey will 
avoid the annoyance cf a oustom-houe search 
In France. Travdiers with a foreign passport 
are subject to a vita, the expense of which is two 
francs. The British minister's passport Is an 
exception, no diarge bdng made for the visa. 

TraveTers not going t» Paris, but en tmste to 
Bmsseb, need not exdmnge their passports tn 
ajMUseprovikiira^ the vi^ of the Calais authori- 
ties only bdng necessary to enable them to pro* 
ceed on their Journey. The Britlsb consul heve 
wHl grant a passport for 4s. 6d., to parties not 
provided with one. 

The polioe signaturs t» the pas^ort caa be 
procured at any hour of the day or ni^t, and 
hence travdiers diould not be imposed upon by 
the commtetonaries at thd hotds^whe will often 
endeavour to detain strangers, on the plea that 
ttie police signature cannot be procured. The 
owner of the passport dM>uU attend the police 
office hfansdf to have It vial. BngUsh diapd. 
Rue des Prdtres; hours of service on Sundays 
11am. andSpjn. 

8team«rs ply thrice each day between CaUite 
and I>OTer, making the voyage fan about one and 
a half to two hows. Bteam-boats sail dfareot to 
London twioe a week, performing tiie voisgc la 
from 10 to l2hQiax%. 



Boote IJ 



ST. OXES-^ULLX. 



8 



CtalAbl to Line--<5 English miles. Lear- 
log the station at the end of the pier, near to 
tb» gate St. Pierre, a place of no trnportanoe is 
passed, and 

▲rdrbs arrived at. It is a small fortress 
sftnated on a canal. A little to the west of the 
road, between the town and Goisnes, is the spot 
oaUed by historians the ** Field of the Cloth of 
Gold," where Henry VIIL of England and 
Francis L of France met in 1620. It is so called 
tnaa the doth of gold coTcring the tents and 
pavilions occupied by the two Monarchs and their 
futtes, ccMuprising 5^696 persons, with 4*326 horses. 

And&uioq Station. Waxtbm Station. 
81. Oiiier«-nHotel8: 

Hotd de r Andenne Foster aa old-crtabHriifld 
good house. 

Hotel St. Katharine. 

A third rate fortress, situated in a marshy die- 
triot on the Aa, well buQt and strongly for- 
tffled; streets wide and well made. A pleu- 
tiftil supply of refireshing water is afforded 
from 12 fountains in different quarters. The 
Hdtel de Yille is situated in the Fbtoe d'Armes. 
Beyond the walls are two considerable suburbs, 
between which and Clairmarais are situated, 
amid extensiTC marshes, sereral floating islands, 
ooTcred with trees and excellent pasture. The 
proprietOTS row them like a boat to land their 
cattle or take them up. The town is on the 
Una of railway from Calais to Lille. Living 
is said to be dieap. It contains a population 
of 21,000 inhabitanti^ and possesses two ec- 
distawrtcal buildings well worthy of notice-4he 
<>ith«dral, and Abbey Church of St. Bertin. The 
former is a magnificent construction, exhibiting 
a transition from the round to the pointed style 
of ardiitecture, situated in the Rue St. Ber. 
tin. Its east end is of a polygonal termina- 
tloii».with projecting diapels. The interior 
of Um diurch is in good preservaticm, and the 
mall Chapel of the Virgin has been lately 
ra-dooorated. At the extreme end of the street 
In mbkAi tfab churdi is situated are to be seen 
the remains of the once famous Abb^ of St. 
Uertin, formerly the noblest Gothic building 
in French Flanders. The only fragments now 
nmaining Is a stately tower, noble even in its 
rain% tha mutilated pf«i«f'^**Tg of its walls ba- 
spasMng the diaste and superior daganoe of YtM 
BoM OotUo Mtjh of onuunent. Rrom off th« 



tower, which is propped by a rude buttre ss of 
masonry, a fine panoramic view of the town may 
be had. Thomas a' Becket sought reAige in this 
once-famous abbey, when a AigitiTe from Eng« 
land, and within its doister were passed the last 
four years of his life; by Childeric IIL, the last 
of the roit fainiant of the Merovingian rac^ who 
died there in 764. The monastery was sup- 
pressed in 1792, but was spared by the convention. 
The Directory was less considerate, and under it 
the roof was taken off, the building strii^ed of 
its fixtures and wood work, whidi were sdd. 
The work of destruction was completed a Ibw 
years dnce by the local authorities, who liad tfao 
walls taken down, in order to find work for suno 
unemployed labourers I 

It was here existed the celebrated Jesuitaf Col- 
lege, founded in 1696 by an English Jesuit, named 
Parsons. In it were educated many of the con- 
spirators mixed up in the Gunpowder Plot, and 
some of the wild spirits that intrigued against 
Elizabeth. This college was succeeded by a 
seminary, for British Boman Catholics, and in it 
was educated the fiunous agitator, the late Danid 
CConnell. 

English Church ; Rue du Bon Pasteur. Hours 
of Service 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on Sundays. 

EBEJ56HEM Station. 

Hazbbrovck: From here abrandi line leads to 
Dunkirk. Refreshments may be had here. 

The following unimportant stations are next 
passed : — Stkazekle, Bauxeul, Stkshwebcic. 
Abbieiitibres, and Pershchies. 
|Ji?e.-^otds: 

flotd de I'Europe, the first in the town, and 
liighly recommended. Landlord, M. Ferm* 
Hotd de Bdlevue and Commerce, 
^here is also a refreshment room at the railway 
station, but it is not very good. 

This dty is strongly fortified, and format on 
the northern frontiers of France, the central 
point of defence. With a population of 72,690 
inhabitants, it is the seat of thriving industry and 
of busy manufacture ranking as the seventh 
industrial and commercial dty of the new empire. 
The town is traversed by the waters of the Haute 
and Basse Deule, which fill its moats, and woric 
the mill madiinery about. They are connactaA. 
by a oanal^io •rl«B^K^*^^^»^s**^>s^^«*^■®™^■*^ 



I 



JJLLE TO BBUBBKLS-4>0UAZ. 



[BoBtei 



•nd its woalth wtarj gn$X, yet its nKHinmenti 
Mid bufldings are few and nnimportaiit. 

The Cifackl is looked upon as a maeter apedmen 
of tbe skill of Yanban, who held the podtion of 
governor for manjyean. TheHdteldeVilleisan 
SNOtion of the 13th oentniy, buHt by Jean Sans- 
Fenr, faihabited by Charles V^ and was anciently 
Ibepalaoe of the Dukes of Burgundy. The build- 
ing is in the early Oothio style^ and has in one of 
Us tonreUes an exquisitely groined staircase and a 
diapeL A school of art, containing an interesting 
and ridi ooHection of drawings by the old mas- 
Un, oooopies one division of the building. This 
eoQMNion oonrists of 44 paintings by Raphael 



by Masardn ¥t% Bartolomeo and a few 
arohitectnral designs by Michael Angelo. An 
inspection of them will interest and gratify all 
knm of the fine arts. Cherr Wicar bequeathed 
them to the dty. Though Sunday is the only 
day <m which there is a public admission, the 
housekeeper will not hesitate to admit persons 
(tf respectability on other days. 

The Muteuam will scarcely repay a visit; it, 
however, contains many curious old portraits of 
the Dukes of Burgundy and of the Counts of 
Flanders, besides a painting by BulMns, and two 
by Arnold de Vuez, a native artist, bom in 1642, 
and considerably eminent in his profession. The 
former painting represents St. Catherine rescued 
from the wheel of mar^rrdom, and the two latter 
are portraits of Saints Fhmcis and Cedlia. 

The diief church in LiUe is that of St. Maurice, 
a Gothic buQding of the 16th century, resting on 
delicately light piDars^ but presenting no appear, 
anoeofgeneralinterest. The Rue Royale, a street 
one milelong, should be visited, and the immensely 
large com stores seen, as also the very fine houses 
of the Rue Esquirmoise. 

The suburbs of Lille for miles around, as well 
as the entire Department du Nord, will strike 
the traveller as strongly resembling the districts 
tfaiough Lancashire and the West Riding. On 
•U rides is heard the busy hum of industry, whilst 
taU diimneys and numerous mills proclaim the 
aetfve and vigorous trade being carried on, form- 
hig the rather novel combination of a fralress 
9Bd a manufkcturing town. Flax forms the sta- 
ple mannfartnreb wfaidi is grown in and about 
llie a4}aoent country. It is spun into ordinary 
thread^ and twisted into Lille thread. Cotton 



tent, and in its manufketure Line has been a ooife 
siderable rival to England. Its other faranobes 
of trade are the manufitcture of sugar fhmi beeU 
roo^ the extraction of oils firom colsa and the 
iudt of rape, poppies, Unseed, &c. Its other 
ottJocts of attraction are the Hospital, founded in 
1739, the Bridge, the Concert Hall, the Gaol, the 
Botanical Garden, the Triumphal Arch, erected 
in 173^ in honour of Louis XIV., and the Colnna 
raised in memory of the si^e sustained by the 
city in 1792. Railway to Douai and Paris; to 
Valenciennes, Mons, and Brussels; to Conrtray, 
Ghent, and Brussels. 

Une to BroMelfl, by Doual and 
¥aleneleiiDe8«— Sbclii^ Cabtd^ tad La- 
woMMSi Stations, places of no interest or import- 
ance, are passed before arriving at 

DovAi.— Hotel : 
^^tel de Flandre, the best. 
Refireshment Room at the station, very rood. 

Population, 17,600. The town Is conveni- 
ently rituated on the river Scarpe^ vdildk 
communicates with the canal of.Sens^ and is 
surrounded by fortifications, which the railway 
twice crosses. An old detached fort on the left 
bank serves as a defence for the town, whidi 
belongs to department du Nord. It has a vary 
picturesque Belfrey m the market place, sur- 
mounting the Hdtel de Vllle, a gothic building 
of the 16th century, in wliich Is the library, con- 
taining 30,000 vols. A rather curious qpectacie 
greets the traveUor^s eye here in the early part 
of each July, when aprocesslim takes place called 
G^ant Gayant. a large osisr giant, 80 foot Ugh, 
attired hi armour, and accompanied by a fluni^ 
of proportionate sise, consisting of his wifo and 
children, perambulate the streets^ aocompanied 
by the populace. Eight men enclosed within tUi 
giant fU>ric move it. Douai has been fluned for its 
college^ founded by Cardinal AUen in 1560. b 
it Roman Catholic priests for England and Ire- 
land have been ednoated. Danid (yConnel 
also studied here. A good trade in flax Is caiw 
rled on. Here the Great Northern Railway 
divides into two branchei^ the one proceeding to 
Jotai the Belgian Railways by Valenciennes; the 
other by Arras and Amiens to Peris 

MonnosT, Somah^ Waluebs, and Wiisiwe 
stations are passed previous te our errivel at 

VALoonanms.*. Hotelst 

Hotel de GeBOBBiMoe, the only food hooMlatoim. 



Soiit8l3 



XJLLB TO BBU8SELS— COITBTBAT. 



FopnlKtlon, 22,000. A place of considenble 
tnde and wealth; situated on the Gx«at Northern 
Baflway; also strongly fortified by its portion 
on the Sdiddt, at its confluence with the Bhen- 
delle^ by wfaidi it nuiy be surrounded for three- 
ftsorttas of its droumftrenee by water, retained 
by means of sinioes in the fortifications. The 
towniswdl bnUt; the houses are general^ of 
liriflk and white stone. The Hotel de YiUe, in 
irUch tibM Gotiiic style is mingled with several 
ordflnofardiitecture>will daim attention; it is 
highly decora t ed fhe handsome fli$adeifl sur- 
mounted bj an attic, adorned with Cariatide 
figures, representing the four seasons. The 
hospital and the theatre are also remarkable. 
Many agreeable promenades win be found— the 
Gonrs-Bourbon, the Place-Verte, the Embank, 
meat between fhe dtj and the suburbs, the 
eirouit of the outer fortifications firom the Mens 
Gate to the Quesnoy Oate, the Faubourg Cam- 
bral. From the Citadel the valley of the Scheldt 
is seen to adyantsge. Frolssart, the historian of 
fhe 14th century, was bom here. Here passports 
must be delivered up by travellers entering 
France. The tourist win not find much to 
gratify his taste or fiuicy in the country about 
here, wliich is non-picturesque in the extreme, 
and altogether undiversified with any tracts of 
wood or water sceneiy. 

VAuarciXMHBs to Bbdssxls, see page 

Ulto to Bnusels (eto M ouseron, Oonrlray, 
CUbant, and HaUoes)...^ English mllea. 

BouBAix, an industrious and manufkcturing* 
town, viiiidi has lately risen Into great importance 
and still continues to increase in population and 
trade. It has a population of 26,000. Its staple 
trade is ootton manufkctnre. Close to it, the 
English, under the Duke of Torit, suffered a 
•even defeat from the French, o(munanded by 
nafaegm, on May 18, 1794. They lost, in that 
a ingntnir y affray, 1000 UUed, 2000 prisonen, and 
40 cannon. 

Tousoonro (7^ miles from Ulle), a town with 
9v,000 Inhabitants, no ways remarkable in its 
gweral appearance, bntfsmedfcr itsmannflustofe 
of tabUlinen. 

MouBGBoii, 11 mUea from Ulle^ is laan on 
•a mJnmee to <&• right with iti beanttM 



drarebbunt efbridu. Its oU«f importance arisea 
from the fact of its befaig situated on the firontier. 
It Is the diief place of its comnrane, and contains 
a population of 5636 souls. The country about 
is rich and well cultivated, prodndng wheai and 
ridi pastures. Passports and baggage are ex- 
amined at this station. Facing Mouscron, to the 
left, is the village of Lulngnes. Here (junction 
of the railway from Tonmay) a diange of car- 
riage takes place and an examination of luggage. 
Travellers for Brnssels,via Jurfotse, also to Namur, 
should take especial care and getlnto the proper 
train. From this station the raflway proceeds osi 
through a beautiful country, nntfl its arrival at 
Cotirtn^, on neariog which the country appean 
hlgiily cultivated, and picturesquely agreeablo. 

CouRTKAT— (Inns; Lion d'or and Foste)-r- 
in Flemish Kortryck, is a fortified town, and 
the diief place of a Judicial and admtadstnu 
tive district of West Flanders. It is situated 
on the Lys, which divides it into two part% 
securing to it a communication with the 
principal towns in the north of France. Its 
population is 26,600. The streets are large, 
and finely built. Under the name of Cortcr- 
iacum it existed in the time of the Romans. 
The ibrst doths were made here in 126^ and two 
hundred years afterwards it contained 6,000 
weavers. In 1812, Philip of Burgundy carried 
away a cdebrated dock, considered at that time 
one of the wonders of the age, and the two figures 
(Jacquemart and his vrife) whidi struck the 
hours. The regularity of the motions of these 
latter gave rise to a proverb wliidi still exists in 
Courtray, when speaking of the love existinf 
between a couple, ** They agree like Jacquemart 
and his vrife." It is still fkmous for its mannfbe- 
ture of table linoi and other damask, with wUdt 
it supines all parts of Europe. The surrounding 
country is noted for its growth of flax, with vdiidi 
it supplies, not alone its own manufitctoriei^ bnl 
many of the markets of Europe. In the neigh- 
bourhood are large and extensive blea^in^ 
grounds. The flax is steeped in the waters of the 
hjn, esteemed peculiarly fitvouraUe for bleadiinf 
purposes. 

In a plain near Courtray, was fought, in 110% 
axe sanguinary i>attle of tlie Golden Spurs, hot weea 
the Frendi troqps, under thA C(vqsdSu<£ ^-tMiM^'wri^. 
^ thia ¥V«mybk ^osAMt )«$dss ^iw«B». ^ '^^■wMaa^^ 



« 



IXLLB TO BBwftSBLS— COUBTBAT. 



(Botttel 



Count (T Artois and the Constable of France, to- 
g«ther with apwarda of tirebe hundred knights, 
and several thousand men, left dead on the field. 
The battle derived its name flromthe Immense 
nomber (700) of the gilt i^ars, worn by the 
koil^ts, which fell into the hands of the victors. 
To the right of the road is seen a small chapel, 
cveeted in 1831 to commemorate the event. It is 
owtside the Porte de Gand, and marks the centre 
oftfae battle field. 

The public buildings and m<muments of 
Conrtniy are not numerous. "We will describe 
dMirtly the principal. 

BMl de ViOe: the interior possesses two 
cblmnqn^ one placed in the police court or liall, 
the other in the council room ; thdr sculpture 
Is of exquisite deUcapy and higlUy finished, and 
worthy of attention. 

Chureh of Saint Martin: tiiis churdi was 
founded about the year 650 by Saint EIoL It Is 
remarkable for the tower (one of the IdMest in 
Belgium) which surmounts the portico. There 
Is a tabemade in the interior, most admirably 
sculptured, and a picture by Vleirick, a painter 
of the 16tb century, representing the ** Descent 
of the Holy Spirit upon the Apostles," and on the 
two wings ** The Sleep of Adam in Paradise," and 
"The Baptism of Christ." There is another 
picture by Van Manderen, the historian and poet, 
representing ** A scene of Martyrdom at Rome.'* 
The rich omaraenta made use of in Divine wor- 
ship are worthy of notice for the beauty of the 
chadng and engraving. 

Notre Dame : this church is worthy of notice, 
ebiefly firom the richness of its marbles. It was 
founded in 1238 by Baldwin, Count of Flanders 
and Emperor of Constantinople. It deserves to 
be vidted on account of the richness and grandeur 
eif its ornaments, particularly a chef-d>oeuwre of 
Tan Dyck, placed behind the high altar, anc* 
sepressnting the Elevation of the Cross. The 
tabemade, a fine piece of carving, by the fiunous 
Lefevre, of Toumay; two bas-reliefii by Gode- 
diarles; and Cluist at the Tomb^ deserve to 
be noticed. Tliis churdi once possessed the small 
hr(»7 statue of the Virgin, known as the Virgin 
of Oroeningen, cdebrated for tlie miracles which, 
•Mording to many, it performed : itis now in the 
ohnrdi of Saint Michael, and still attracts crowds 
«f pilgrims to its shrine. The two towers, called 
At^ea.Torrea, baJlt In W8, are rtmnrkaJtiJB 



for the extreme strength and thldmess of tiie 
walls; they are united by a bridge over the Lys^ 
built hi the year 1466. 

The Market Hewee are seen In aU their 
ancient simplidly in the centre of the townt the 
firont of the buUdfaig Is adorned b7 five degant 
turrets. There was foniMrly a high tower In the 
centre of the structure, In whidi the cdebrated 
dodc previously mentioned was placed. Amodero 
building has been erected for marieet pnrposee. 

Tlieairet this Is remarkable for tlie beautj 
of itsdeoorations; it fomv part of the new market 
building. 

The OcHUry of PakOingi Is bnt of recent 
establidiment, and contains as yet but a small 
collection of andent and modem works; the 
liberally of its members^ however, promises soon 
to add rare and valuable productions to its gallery. 
The collection of the late M. Goethals-vercruysseb 
consisting of books, pictures, and interesting ob- 
jects of natural history, should be seen. 

Promenades: the ramparts or boulevards 
surrounding Conrtray form a fine wall^ firom 
which may be had a beautiftil view of the dty. 
, The park of Saint George is likewise a ddightftil 
place ; but by far the most agreeable of the public 
walks Is the eqtlanade ; It is phmted with chesnut 
and lime trees,and has nicdy laid out plotsof green, 
fiimtahed here and there with degant and com- 
fortable seats. Hallway to Bruges ; also to Tpres. 

Leaving Courtray for Ghent, the railway runs 
parallel to the paved road, and after a short run 
arrives at 

HAitttT.«i«in8, A commune and diief place of a 
canton In the district of Courtray, containing » 
population of 4,000 souls. It was the oldest town 
In Flanders^ and the residence of the first govem- 
on of the country. Antiquities have firequently 
been found here. The churdi is remarkable for 
its architecture, and contains a si^erb pnlpilt a 
master-^ece of Decreux, of Toumay. 

WASBBGHUf is an important and andent com. 
mnne of the district of Courtray ; population, 
6^600. It has a considerable trade In linen, 
ffituated 4 miles north-west of it, is the village oi 
Roosbedse^ remarkable as the spot where Philip 
Van Artevdde^ the brewer of Ghent, suffered 
deHeatby the Freadi In 1889^ losing his own lifis, 
with 20,000 of his oountiymen. Shortly after 
leaving Waereghem, the railroad crosses the 
slype, and, quitting West Flandersi enters Into 



lUuiel] 



UUJB TO BBUBSBI«a— GHXMT 

€lMlitr-Hotdi: 




t. 



: 



I ( 




leading to BnuMli, arri?«i tt 



dr. 
the 
md 

iter 
to. 
>of 
ing 
ind 
au- 
in. 
itj 
no 
of 
t 
els, 

no 



I. • •. %m 

workmen iVQt« «ai^vs^ ^ 




\ 



^ 



Route 1] 



UUUB TO BBUISBIA— <1HXMT 



iMtFUaden, pMNi Zulte, a town oontainiiig | Hfccimli Tf otfili t 

^000 inhabitanti, and arrhrea at I>epae, after lBotoldelaPoste,FlaoedrAnn«ibU|U7reeoin. 



naming in a right line, paadng Olaene and then 
Mafthftlwi; the former a conunane of the district 
of Ghent, with a population of ^000, and the 
ktteratown of the aame districti containing a 
popa]atio& of 2,100 inhabitants. 

Bwrn-iUt IS situated on the left bank of the L^. 
On the opposite bank, between the road and the 
rirer. Is Peteghem, a small commune containing 
1,400 souls. Deynze is the ohi^ place of a canton 
In the district of Ghent, and an ancient town; its 
popnktion is 8,800. The principal church, Notre 
I>anie, is an old gothic building, containing a fine 
lietore, attributed to JiMrdaens, representing the 
Birth of Christ. There are coaohes for Thielt 
and OudMiarde. The former is the chi^ place 
of a canton in the district of Bruges. It is the 
Urthpkoe of Oliver le Daim, the celebrated 
barber of Louis XI. Population 12,000. Oude- 
narde is of ?ery ancient origin ; great numbers of 
medals of the Gauls and first Kings of France 
have been fotmd here. The Town Hall is a 
handsome Gothic building; the fountain and 
hasfai opposite are worthy of attention. The 
portal of the collegiate church of the burgo- 
master and aldermen is a masterpiece of wood 
carving, executed in 1630 by Paul Vender 
Schelder. The trade in linen is extensive. The 
population is 6,600. The Lys, which passes 
Bejiuee, rises in France, in the department of 
the Fas de Calais, not far from Bethune; after 
watering Aire, Estaires, and Armentieres, it 
takes a north-easterly direction, a little below 
thf latter town, and forms the Umit between 
France and Belgium, by Wameton and Wervick, 
whioh U passes, and entering West FUnders, 
passes Courtray, then enters East Flanders, 
near Olsene, crossing Deynse, and taking a 
winding course of about 100 miles, it UUb into 
the Scheldt, at Ghent. 

VtAZkuam is next met with. Leaving here the 
ndlroad passes fiiaria Leeme^ and enters a very 
interesting place, to the right of which meandors 
the river Lys. 8t. Dennis Western is passed to 
the left; the road leading to the village of Oude- 
narda is next crossed by the raUway, after which 
It tnnis suddenly to the left, and leaving the line 
leading to BnuMls, arrives at 



mended to English fkmilias. 
Hotel Royal, Place d'Anncs, in the centre of 

the town, an excellent honse. 
Hotel de Flandre,a very good honse^ end chargte 

moderate. 
Tourists will find a large stodc of ready-miie 
wearing apparel, of the best ftshion, at T. BL 
Collard's, 16, Bue des Champs^ and at most vift- 
sonable prices. Orders are promptly ezecniidb 
viiich is a great consideration 

The traveller will be most agreeably snrpffied 
on entering this rich and populous d^, to observe 
the animation and activity imparted by the flon- 
rishing state of its manufactories. Its popnlaMon 
of 90,000 pers<m8 is chiefly engaged in tbm 
manufacturing of linen and cotton threads by 
machinery, and the Ueaching and printing of 
calicoes. On the accession of the preeeitt 
dynasty, the good folks of Glient predieted 
an immediate declension of their trade, and a 
general reverse of prosperity, as the inevitable 
results of the separation from Holland. We are 
happy to leam that the prophe<7 has proved iUse 
in every respect, and that its trade is increasing 
and flourishing now more than ever. This oir- 
cumstanee is explained by a consideration of the 
fiMt, that the reigning king is not the patron and 
protector of particular interests, but the promoter 
of good to the whole nation, governing consttta- 
tionally by a cabinet possesdng the confidence of 
its parliament, and composed of men representing 
the interests^ and conversant with the wants and 
necessities of the agricultural, commerdal, manu- 
facturing, and mineral branches of Belgian in. 
dustry ; hence there is a more general prosperity 
throughout the land — and, if the city of Ghent no 
longer monopolizes the manufacturing trade of 
Belgium, it is satisfactory to know, that the great 
centres of population, Antwerp, Li^ge, Brussels, 
Namur, and Yerviers, were never in a more flou- 
rishing state than at present. Ghent, though no 
longer the great commercial dly of former days, 
is still the Manchester of Belgium. In 1800 an 
enterprising Fleming, named Liviere Baucus^ 
brought over from Manchester several English 
workmen and spinning^jennies ; manufactures 
quickly took root, and in a short time 80, COO 
workmen were envQiUx^o^ ^ i^nHsv.«DsgaEk»& 'en- 
quired to ««!l \li VMl^iwi ^0Qft xnvSs^msrs ^ 'Qfr* 



OHEBTT— BBFFBOX— CATHEDBALi 



[Rootel 



Tvions ootton mflb^ numy of whoM diinmeji 
•ppear Uke daMio oohumit. 

The pditical hiitory of Ghent is ywnoxa and 
Interwting. NotwithrtHidingtiie >e?tre i trict ur <t 
of tlM historian Ha]lam,itca]]snptoth«reo(dleo- 
tton many scenes wfaldi inspire us with erery sen- 
timent of sympailiy and good-will towards the de- 
aoendants of many a name Uiostrated in oentmdes 
past, by deeds of patriotism and dome&tic ^rirtoe, 
whidi still do honour to tiie Flemish diaracter. 

Ghent is one of the handsomest towns on tlie 
Continent; its streets and pnbtte squares are wide 
and spadons; it has more the i^pearanoe of a 
modem dtytlian Bruges; and there are anumber 
of el^ant and dashing equipages constantly 
rolttng through its busy thoroughfares. Itsofctiects 
of attraction may be enumerated as follows :— 

The Btsffroi.'^'Belhj tower, a building erected 
in 1183. Permission to erect a tower, or belfiry, 
was the earliest privilege that the dtisons ob. 
tainedfirom their feudallords, and wa8,hence, long 
regarded by them as a monument of their power 
and wealth. It originally served as a watdi 
tower, firom whence an enemy could be descried, 
and in which was a tocsin-bell that called the 
citizens to arms, and to debate. The gUt dragon 
on the top was carried off from Bruges, by the 
Gantoises, as a trophy of their conquest of that 
town, under Philip Ylaeuderlaudt. It has lately 
been re- gilt. Its history is rather a remarkable 
one, ft having originally adorned a Greek church at 
Constantinople, from whence it was carried off by 
the men of Bruges^ who went to the first crusade 
as soldiers under Boldvdn, Count of Flanders. 
It is now used as a prison, and liad deposited in 
the lower part of it, not Ion t; since, the title deeds 
and records of Gbent. From its top a magnifi- 
cent view can be had, and the entrance to it lies 
tiirough the shop of a watdimaker, who charges 
2 francs for admission. The following reply was 
made by Charles V. to his crud and atrodous 
minister, Alva, who advised bun to destroy the 
city, **'combien 11 fidlait de peaux d^Espagne pour 
fair un gant de cetto grandeur?" — (How many 
skins of Spanish leather would it take to make 
such a glove?) Thus tpoke the king, pobiting 
out the dty from the top of the Beffroi. 

The Cathedral of Ghent is one of the handsom* 

est gothlc buildings in Belgium. It was formerly 

^ otanA dedicated to 8t John, but took the name 

' "" ^-'vaalalS/O, when Cbarleg V. removed 



HiillMr the collegiate diaptet of the Abbey of 
that safait, and 19 years afterwards it was raised 
to Um dignity of a catiiedral diurdi. The present 
bafldhaig was c<«unenced in the thirteenth, and 
flnfahed in the beginning of the tizteenth century. 
Hie mejestie effect which the structure is calcu- 
lated to produce is mudi impaired by the want 
of an open area around and in teoat. The tower 
is remarkable for its deganoe; it is 271 feet 
high, and the ascent to the platform which terml- 
natetitisbyUfisteps; the view from the summ't 
teof great extent and boauty. The Cathedral itse'f 
is divided into three aisles by a double range 
of light and degant columns. On eadi side aro 
disposed twelve chapels, whidi, aa wdl as the 
chohr, are in excdlent keeping with the rest of 
the building. The choir, which has two ride 
aisles, is raised above the floor of the body of the 
church by a flight of steps: in front is the grand 
altar, endoted hj three bronse doors of elaborate 
worlonanship, and surmounted by Corinthian 
columns of the purest Carrara marble, with a 
statue of the saint in his ducal robes, and two 
coUossal marble statues by Van Pouche, repre- 
senting the apoaties Peter and Paul. In front of 
the altar aro four tad copper candlesticks re- 
markable as having been the property of Charles 
the First of England. It is surmised that they 
may have adorned the Chapel of Whitehall, or 
St. Paul's Church. It is supposed that they were 
sent out of England and sold; on them ar« still 
seen the arms of England. 

The stalls of the canons in the dioir are said to 
be the finest specimens of carving in mahogany 
known to exist in the world. Over there stalls 
are eleven paintings in imitation of bas-relief, by 
P. Van Reysdioot. Most of the numerous chapels 
which line the Cathedral are adorned with 
paintings. The first contains the Beheading of 
St. John the Baptist, by Crayer; the second, tbe 
Oonat on of 8t. Colette (a saint of Ghent, who 
died in 1447.) of a piece of ground for a convent, 
by Paelbiclc, a modem artist; the third, tbe Bap- 
tism of our Saviour, by Crauwer; the fourth, a 
dead Christ, by Abraham Janssens; the sixth, 
Christ disputing with the Doctors, by Pourbus, 
all the figures of which are portraits of different 
indiriduala holding official situations under 
Philip II.; the seventh, a fine picture of the 
Martyrdom of St. Barbe, by Crayer ; the tenth, 
a Christ between \)xe ThieN«a,bi ^axuiec Meixea 



Boatelj 



QHMIT'^^iATintPltAIi— CHUBCH OF 8T. HICaLUBi 



9 



a pi^ of Van Eyck; the derenth, the Paschal 
X<ainb^ one of the most celebrated pictores of the 
FlemUi Bchool, pahited by the brothers Van Eyck, 
tfaehiventorsof ofl-pahiting; and, though more 
than 400 years hare elapsed shice this pictore was 
pahited, the oolovrs retain a vividness truly won- 
derftd, the numerous figures are all finished with 
the most daborate care, and each countenance 
Is mdued with admirably appropriate expression. 
The towers, which in the luminous horizon are 
■opposed to represent the New Jerusalem, are 
taken from those of Maestricht, near wldch town 
the artists were bom. Above this picture are 
tiiree smaller ones hy the same artists; the centre 
te proBo nts Christ on a throne, holding a crystal 
■eeptre, surmounted by a large sapphire; the 
tran8paren<7 of the crystal is represented with an 
effect almost magical : the left-hand picture is an 
exquisite representation of the Virgin, and that 
<m the right is an equally fine figure of St. John 
the Baptist These four pictures, iwhether con- 
ddered with reference to the date of their execu- 
tion, or to their intrinsic merit, mustrank among 
the most valuable in Europe. In the fourteenth 
«lu4»el is a fine picture by Bubens, representing 
the Beoeption of St. Amand in the Abbey of 
StB«ron« after he had given all his property to 
the poor. The fifteenth contains the Besnrrec- 
tion of Lazarus, by Otto Vennius^ the master of 
Bubens^ and also Judas Maccabeus seeking a place 
of Burial for his Soldiers. In the sixteenth is the 
Martyrdom of St. Lieven, the patron of Ghent, 
by Seghers. The seventeenth has a copy firom 
Bnbeni^s picture of the Blartyrdinn of St. Catha- 
rine^ the original of which is in the church of 
St Catharine, at LOle. In front of this chapel is 
the mansolwn of Bishop O. Van Eersel, executed 
by Charles VanPouche and F. Janssens, after 
the designs of the former. The nineteenth 
chapel contains the Seven Works of Men^, 1^ 
Coexie; in the twentieth is the font in which 
Charles V. was baptised; the twen^-fbrst has 
the Assumption of the Virgin, by Crayer ; in the 
twenty-second is one of the fineet productions of 
Crayer, rq^resenting St. Ifaohaire praying for 
the cessation of the plague; before the altar is a 
has-rellaf to white marble, byM. Portoisi, repre- 
•enting the body of St. Machaire carried to 
procession. The altar-pieoe of twenty-third 
ehapei r epr e s en t s St. Sambart oanying bumfaig 
on •& nmoomainedtaviio^to St. BandoeU; 
e 



this picture is by Van Hnifel; the twenty-finvtti 
and last chapel contains a Descent firom the Crosa^ 
by Bombants, which is esteemed the finest pro- 
duction of that artist. The organ has a fine tone 
and delights the ear, but is placed in a rituation 
which offends the eye, firom toterfering with the 
harmony of the construction of the rest of the 
edifice. The pulpit, which is the workmaziship 
of Lawrence Delvaui^ of Ghent, is to the centre 
of the right nave, and is comddored one of the 
most beautifU to the world. It is composed of 
white marble and oak. The tree of life supports 
the pulpit, and covors the sounding-board witii 
its branches. At the foot of the tree is seated » 
figure of Time, represented as a venerable old 
man, whose eyes are covered with a thidn veil, 
which he is lifting up to order to contemplate the 
features of Truth, who (presents herself before 
him as a beautifhl woman, holding an open book, 
to which are traced the words ** Surge qui dermis 
illuminabit te Christus," "Arise thou that 
steepest, Christ shaU give thee light." At the 
foot of each stair-case are two angels. The four 
fronts of this exquirite piece of workmanship, 
which cost 37,000 florins (£2,960), are ornamented 
with bas-reliefii to white marble. 

The most perfect work of art to this catiiedral, 
or todeed to the whole of Belgium, is the mauso- 
leum of Bishop Triest, by JercHue Dugueenoy; 
it consists of a statue of the bishop contemplattog 
the cross borne by our Saviour. On the opposlta 
side is a figure of the Virgin,and two small angela 
are stationed at the bottom of the mausdeom. 

The visitor should not leave St. Bavon without 
descending toto the crypt, a low snbtemaeaa 
arch under the choir. It is divided into lift 
ehapels, adorned with paintings^ and contatotog 
the tombs of Hubert Van Ejdk and his sister 
also a patoter, who might be redconed an enthu- 
siast to the art, as she r^ected all offers of marri- 
age, to order to devote herself entirely to its study. 

The Ckur^qf S*, NkhdUm is one of the oioet 
ancient to Ghent. It was burned to llSOg but 
re-buUt on the same pbui. This edifice suffered 
much to the religions wars. The dnnrch ob 
St. Pierre is a building of the seventeenth century. 
It is approached ttirough a beantlAil square^ and 
contains a few good paintings. 

The Chwtchof Bt. Midhaa to the centre of th< 
dty, is renMrkable fot tSaft <d!i6»s^«u^''^»s^ 



10 



aHBrr— THB bkgudiaob— hotel dk vnjjb 



[Bovtt 1 



frMnthecpeBspMeinwIiidiitlsattaated. The 
■qnare tower wkioh snnnoantB fhe dmrdi, wm 
li9gvn in 1440, and wM to have been carried to • 
Iwigiit of 400 foet, bnt tiie darfgn lias never been 
•ompleted. In the twdfth diapel of thii edifice 
li a magnifieent picture of the onieiflzi<m, bj 
Van Dyck, the only work of this master which is 
to be foimd in any of the pubbc buildings of 
Ofaent. Badi of the chapdi^ which are twdre 
fai mmiber, contains one or more pictures of 
varions merit : it will be sufficient to direct the 
attention of theamatenr to ttie Annunciation, by 
Leni^ and the Assumption, by Fran9<ris, both in 
the newly Unished du^el, to the right of the 
cross of the church; the Apotheosis of St. 
Catherine in the third chapel, by Crayer,andthe 
Tinding of the Crosi^ by the Empress Helena, 
whose figure, represented in the {rfcture^ was ftir- 
nished by the Empress Josephine, who sat for the 
model. There are also in this church, numerous 
pidntings, by Belgian artists. The organ recently 
erected in this church is remarioble for its sweet- 
ness. The other principal churches worth 
▼iriting are those of Saint Pierre, St. Nicholas, 
and St. Jacques ; this latter diurdi is situated in 
a Tast square. It was destroyed in 1720 and after- 
wards rebuilt. 

7%0 Biffumage, The community of Beguines 
was founded by St. Bagge, Duchess of Brabant, 
and sister of Philip of Landen. The communily 
is peculiar to the Netherlands. Clement V. 
isMied a bull against these sisters, but John XXII. 
revoked it, and accorded them many indulgences. 
It is one ot the few nunneries not swept away by 
the ftury of the French revolution, or suppressed 
by Joseph II. Their existence received a legal 
ratification In 1828. The sisters are bound by no 
vow, and inay return to the world at any time. 
Their chief duty is to attend to the sick and visit 
the hospitals, where thoy are constantly to be 
met wiUi. In the order are persons of the highest 
ftanilies and wealth. The dsters in Ghent amount 
to about one hundred, whilst their entire number 
In Belgium is six thousand. The building is of 
eensideraUe extent, -v^th streets, squares, and 
tates, en<do8ed by a wan and moat. The house 
at Obent, called the Grand Beguinage, is rituated 
in Uie Bue des Bruges, and was founded by Jane, 
OouitesB of Constantinople, in 1234. The first 
ehapel was bnUt in 1343. The sisters live in 
' JiMMW^ and each door has inscribed on 



tttbe name of tome mtaX, ehoooa m lis pro- 
teetrees. l^iton to Ghent sbonld vWt tUf 
chnrdi at the boor of TeB|Mr% idridi are 4ito( St 
hatf>past seven eadi efeninf. The fpo^p is 
most i miii es si i e . The aiateni an 4B dreiNd io 
blade robes with white veiiB; the aoviees ar« dit- 
tinguished by a different dres% wfaUrt those who 
have bnt lately taken the veD, are ^itingvisbed 
by a chaplet, iriiicfa thej wear azmmd their 
heads. The diapd, barely flhnninated by a few 
lampe, and the solemn singing, togettier with tha 
large assemblage of sister^ so p&ctaretqndy 
dressed, imparts to the scene an a^ect of aolema 
grandeur and mystic beanly that camot lUl to 
Impress the ndnd of the bdMrider with feelings of 
awe and reverence, sndi as are only fUt In the 
presence of ottN^ts in^^vasting and siddime. The 
chapel itself is interesting in the extreme, and on 
the stone work of one of its irillars^ wasinsorlbed 
thefollowingtonchingfaiscriptJonbyLamartine:— ' 

<* Uu pen de banme \ la Souffirance 

Au corps qnelqne rimedok aax seimea Tea- 

perance 
On seoours anmaladOi anz parents unadieu 

Un Sounre i chacim, a tons un mot de Dieu." 

H^UH de Viae is sitoated partly in the Rue 
Hante-Forte, and partly in I<a 3iarch6-an-Beure. 
The portion standing in the former street is 
built in the Gothic stjle of arddtecture, presents 
a magnificent appearance, and is adorned with 
exquisitely wrought onuunents. It has two 
facades, built at intervals between 1482 and 1620 
after several plans, by as many architects. The 
turret or tribune at the comer, was bunt in 1527- 
1560 by Eustace PoUoyt, and is in the richest 
flamboyant Gothic style. The other fis9ade,buUt 
between 1600 and 1620, has cohimns of three 
different orders of achitectur% one surmounting 
the other. In the SaUe du Trone, so celetoated 
in the annals of Ghent, was signed the treaty 
known as the ** Pacification of Ghent," drawn up, 
in 1576, by the congress of confederates, who as- 
sembled to adopt measures calculated to drive 
the Spaniards firom out of Belgium. Two modem 
paintings are to be seen in theinterior of the bund- 
ing, which win not eUdt Tory much admiration. 

Palace of JmtUse.^^ striUng bnfldinK by 
Rdlands, is situated hi the Bue dnThe^re. The 
ground floor is used as fhe Exdiange^ and tha 
upper chamber as Courts of Joftioa. 

PalaU4e X'lTniiMrfttf-Fonndfd by WnUan 




CfloncU lUll of Oudcosrd*. 



Bonf* 1 j 



U 



I^ King of Holland, in 1828. It is a beautiM 
and modem edifice, liavinga splendid Corintliian 
portico, modelled from tlie Pantheon, at Rome> 
and is built on the site of the Jesuits' College. 
The principal hall, and the amphitheatre, in 
which the academe meetings are held, can ac- 
WMOomodate f rom rizteen to seventeen hundred 
people, and is ridily ornamented and embellished. 

The Mvaewm. of Natural HieAory is not less re- 
markable for its extent than for the richness of 
Its coUeelion. The university contains a library 
t>pen to the public each day from nine to twelve 
and from two to five o'clock, unless on Sundays, 
and feast-days. This library contains sixty 
thousand volumes, and veky many precious 
manuscripts. The JanUn Botanique, instituted 
in 1797, belongs to the university, and is spoken 
of as one of the finest in Belgium. It con- 
tidns a collection of eight thousand plants, of 
a thousand different species. 

Maiton des Bateliers, on the Qual aux Herbes* 
is au old and picturesque edifice, built in 1613. 

The La HaUe atue Drops wVl also repay notice. 

Maison de Detention, a house of correction, 
idtuated on the north side of the city, on the 
Goupurea canal, which is bordered by a double 
row of large trees. It was constructed in 1773, 
in the reign of Maria Theresa, and forms a per- 
fect octagon, in the centre of which is a spacious 
court, communicating with the different quad- 
rangles of the establishment. Each quadrangle 
or ward has a yard, and in the centre of that be- 
longing to the female ward, is a large basin of 
water, in which the female prisoners wash the 
linen of the whole establishment. Each prisoner 
deeps alone in a small, but well-aired room, aad 
if employed during the day in working at what- 
ever trade or business he or she is most compe- 
tent to; and of the produce of this labour, five- 
tenths are retained by government when the 
prisoners are merely detahied correctionally; six- 
tenths when they have been sentenced to hard 
labour. The remainder is divided into two por- 
tions; half is given to the prisoners weekly for 
pocket money, and the other given to them at 
the expiration Of the term of their imprisonmrat, 
to assist in their re-establlshment in the world. 
Religious service and instruction are provided 
and attended to in an admirable manner ; and if 
isriioners are found ignorant of the first elements 
«f ]m«wledg«^ as reading, witling, and arlthmskio. 



they receive inrtrnetion in the tarions bnudiet. 
Insubordination or refractory conduct is punished 
by solitary confinement. The shop for refresh- 
ments sold to the prisoners, is kept under strict 
regulations by the officers of the establishment, 
and the profits are employed as rewards for the 
most industrious and well-behaved prisoners. 
The new part of the building, which has been 
recently completed, has cost upwards of £40,000 
and the whole edifice will, when finished, oontaia 
two thousand, six hundred prisoners. Tliere to 
still, however, much to be done. 

Le Kauter, or Place dfArmes, is a large sqnar* 
planted with trees. It is a beautiftil promenade, 
and has a military band usually playing there ob 
summer evenings. 

The Marehi au Vendredi (Vr^days market), 
avast square, so called from the day on which 
the fkir is held. It is remarkable as having 
been the spot where the trades' unions of 
the middle ages planted thefar standards and 
rallied to arms. On it the ceremonial of 
inaugurating the Counts of Flanders was ode- 
brated with a gorgeous and luxurious gmndenr, 
unequalled at the present day. This spot is also 
identified with one of the most painfrd and tra^ 
reminiscences connected with the history of 
Ghent. It is celebrated as being the sooie of an 
internecine slaughter, in which fifteen hundred 
citizens were slain by fellow citizens. The wea- 
vers and fiillers constituted the two factions, and 
the former were led on and headed by Jacques 
Van Artivelde, called the brewer ol Gherat, in 
the corporation of which body he enrolled him- 
self,' though descMided from one of the first 
fiunilies in Flanders. The day, to mark the san- 
guinary and disgraceAil work, was called Evil 
Monday, in the annals of the town. Onthatspot^ 
and on that day forty years after, Philip, the son 
of that Jacques, was saluted Protector of Ghent^ 
and received the oath of fidelity from liis towns- 
men on the occadon of his being called iqKm to 
lead them against Louis de MAle. In the Marohi 
au Vendredi also were lighted the fires of the In- 
quisition, undOT the duke of Alva. The great 
cannon, situated in a street called the ** Manse- 
kens Aert," dose to the March^, is called J}u 
duUe CHrute, alias Mad Margery, is tiie most 
enormous ever cast, measuring ten feet in length 
and ten and a-half fe^^ \el tSceoQactsSascnbsA* ^ 



1^ 



OJ lENT— CITADSL — ^THKATRK. 



( KoaU; L 



1388 *t the siegd of Oudenarde, by the dtizens 
of Ghent. An interesting motnument of anti- 
foity, Btands in the Place St. Fharailde, near the 
Marche aux Poissons. It consIstB oi an old tor- 
reted gateway, called the Ondeburg or the count's 
■tone or castle, built in 868, by Baldwin 
Bras de for. It is incorporated with a 
cotton factory nuir, and deserves a visit, 
M «»ne of tha oldest bufldlngs in Belgium. 
In the year 1338, £dward ill. and his fkmily re- 
sided here. Daring his residence his queen gave 
birth to a son, called John of Qaunt. Aniniimate 
and friendly alliance exbted for years between 
the English and people o( Ghent. It may not 
be oointerestlng to moitlon the fate of Jacques 
Van Artiveldi, the brewer, whom Bdward III. of 
England used to s^Ie ftuniliarly ** his dear gos- 
sip.'* He was a faithful friend and ally to this 
king, and lost his life, it may be taid, in his service. 
He invited Edward III. over to 81uis, in 1344. 
with a view of taking oonndl for the promotion 
of the promise made to the king by Jacques, to 
the effect that he would make him " Lord and 
heritor of Flanders^" a thing altogether opposed 
to the wishes of the Gantoisea. Public indignation 
was excited against him, and was further in- 
creased by a rumour to the effect, that he had, 
during his aumin stration of the government (li 
Flanders, stealthily sent large sums of mo- 
ney oUk )f the exchequor to England, which so 
eza^eratcl the people, as to cause them to enter 
into a revolt against him, assault his house, which 
was attacked by a mob of 400 persons, and bro- 
ken into^ when a dtiaen, named Thomas O. 
Dennys, slew him without merpy. Thus perished 
the man, by the hands of those citizens whom he | 
<moe influenced, led, and governed; and whose 
■anguinary aflirays were often undertaken in his 
desire to gratify the ambition or daring to which 
be ministered. 

Portes de la ViOe, or City flkrtw.— There are 
aeven principal glides, the most remarkable of 
which are those of Brussels, St. Lievin, St. Peter, 
and Bruges, all of which present cuxious relics of 
the ancient gates erected in the fburteenth cen- 
tury. The greater portion of these gates have 
kem re-construoted, after a style oi beautifixl 
•rohitecfure. 

Ca$ino — Situated near the canal, cut in 1760, 

to unite the Lys and Bruges canal together. The 

^otaaJcM/jtoaietraad £b# xeuuiflsal sode^ of St. 



C^dly had this edifice eonstmeted, m which 
might be held the reunions of the latter, and the 
floral exhibitions of the former. 

Cttodet— Was erected by Charles V., and was 
|he first thing of the kind raised in Belgium. It 
was caUed ^'Ch&teau des Espagnoles," and is 
situated on the east side of the town, not far from 
the Porte d'Anvers. In it were imprisoned the 
Coimts Egmont, and Horn, and it was besieged 
in 1670, by the townspeople under the Prince of 
Orange when they rose to throw oflT the Spanish 
yoke. The Spaniards vigoroudy defended it, 
but three thousand Gantoises^ wearing white 
shirts to distinguish them, assaulted it, and were 
repulsed, in consequence of the ladders being too 
short. The Spaniards capitulated next morning; 
after the attack, and terms being granted, the 
Senora Mondragon, who had bravely d^ended 
the fortress during her husband's absence, with 
about one hundred and fifly men, some women, 
and a few < hildren. the sole remnant of the gar- 
rison, marched out, to the surprise of the victors. 

Hotg^lbaili,. — Ghent possesses one and twenty 
hospitals, civil and military. The principal of 
these is the Byloque, founded in 1225, and capa- 
ble (^ containing six hundred sick. In the 
church attached to it, Jacques Van Artivelde 
was buried. Tine military hospital is situated 
near the church <tf St. Martin, among beautiful 
gardenb. 

ThtfOirt. — A magnificent theatre has been lately 
erected at the comer <tf the Place d'Armes. 
The salon, concert hall, and ball rooms are beau- 
tiful in their constructicm and decoration. It 
was erected at a cost of 2,500,000 francs. 

FaJUxiz de JioHce— Situated in the Rue da 
Theatre, is a very fine building, and will repay 
notice. 

The commerce and manufactures of Cheat are 
very extensive and various ; the most in portant 
of the latter consist in cotton printing, cotton 
q>inning, dioth working, gin distilling, sugar-re- 
fining, soap making, brcwinar, goldsmith's work, 
paper making, and ntmieroiu other branches of 
industry, particularly the making of masks, of 
which large quantities are exported all over the 
world. There is also a superb iron foundry in 
Ghent. Every day in the morning, at noon, and 
in the evening, a bell rings, to announce to the 
workmen, who amoont in nnmber to fifteen hun- 
dred and upwards, tha hourt of going to work* 




p*i>iiae iuttiGB,(niM&. 



3Etoiilel| 



exszrr to mxchun. 



18 



WUBe fliif b«n ig ringing, none of the bridges 
are allowed to be turned, lest they should inter- 
cept the passage of the industrious artisans. 

The earirons of G^ent are pleasant and fer- 
tile, abounding particularly in com, flax, madder, 
and tobacco. Outside the gate of Conrtrai, are 
mnnerous country houses, and the road is bor- 
dered with pleasure gardens. Hear the Antwerp 
gstes^ are still to be traced, the ruins of the 
<dtadel constructed by Charles V., on the site of 
the abbey of St. Sarin; and in the neighbour- 
hood ci the gate of St. Lieven, is found a 
transparent stone, resembling the flints of 
Flemis. 

The lUrs held at Ghent, commence on the 16th 
Mardi, and continue for eighteen days; 10th 
July, seventeen days; 9th August, one day; and 
3rd October, two days. 

Post Office^ Bue de rUniversitg. 

A communication between die sea and Ghent 
exists by means of a canal, which enters the 
Sehelde at Temeuse. This ensures all the ad- 
vantages of a seaport to the dty. Vessels I 
drawing eighteen feet of water, can enter the 
basin. About fourteen miles north, at Sas van 
Ghent, are sluices, by means of which the entire 
country can be laid under water. 

CUient to Mechlin.— Leaving Ghent, the 
raUwajr* after crossing the Scheldt, is carried 
along the south ride of it. The scenery is 
interesting, and such as usually characterises 
the environs of a great and populous city, until 
w« arrive at 

Maixs— Situated on the Escaut, and containing 
a population of 1,900. The route from Bmsselfl, 
to Ghent, and firom Ghent to Mens by Grammont, 
traverses it. From this station to Wettem, the 
line deeeribes an immense curve, following the 
bend ci the Escaut, on whose sur&ce can be 
eeen the boats as they sail up and down the river. 

WsTTSRN, is a charming village, or rather town, 
the ciq;>ital of a canton rituated to the right of 
the railway, on the right bank of the Escaut. It 
contains a population of about 1,000 souls. 
Leaving here the road crosses a viaduct, and 
passing along has to the left, the little villages of I 
C^herscamp and ScheUe-Belle, and arrives at 
Wiehelen, alter passtaig the M olenbub, a stream 
flowing Into the Escaut. 

WiCHiLBr^li annall comniiuM to the right of \ 



the railway, with a populatien of 4,004 inhabi- 
tants. This station is the point-d'arr^t for eaeh 
train. On quitting this place, ihe railway pro- 
ceeds through a rather imintereeting piece of 
country and arrives at 

AuosQHBM — (From here Alost is distant 8 
miles). Omnibuses meet each train. 

[Alosv, on the river Dendre, the chief town 
of the district of East Flanders, is said to owe its 
origin to a fortress built by the Goths hi 411. It 
was formerly the capital of what was called Im- 
perial Flanders, and was reduced to ashes by a 
conflagration in 136C, and hi 1667 the celebrated 
Marshal Turenne took and dismantled it. The 
town hall is a fine Gothic edifice, built in 1210^ 
and is in excellent preservation. The collegiate 
church of St. Martin was buUt by the same archi- 
tect as the cathedral of Amiens, and contains 
a fine picture by Rubens, representing the 
'* Plague of Alost." The population is about 
15,000, chiefly engaged in linen, soap, and thread- 
lace manufactures.] 

Termovde, Clnns: Aigle; Demi-Lune) ai| 
ancient town, said to be earlier than the time 
of Charlemagne. It is situated at the mouth 
of the river Dendre, at its confluence viith 
the Scheldt. The inhabitants have a taste 
for the fine arts, and the traveller may readily 
obtain access to several private collections, among 
which we may name those of M . Schellekin and 
Madame Terlinden. Darid Teniers married in 
this town, and resided here several years. The 
popiJation is about 8,000, chiefly engaged in the 
hemp and flax trade. It is 16 miles, by railway 
west of Bialines, and 19 from Ghent. The 
church of Notre Dame will repay a virit. It is a 
low, old building, surmounted by an octagon 
tower, and contains a Crucifixion and Adoration 
of the Shepherds, by Van Dyck, and a Virgin 
and Sahits, by Oniyer. 

On leaving Termonde, we p^ss a great many 
pretty villages, of no note, and leaving East 
Flanders, arrive at 

Maloeben, a commune containing 1,700 inhabit 
tants, situated at the extremity of the pro- 
vince of Brabant. The town presents no remark- 
able objects of attraction save its church and 
a few curious monuments of the sixteenth and 
seventeenth century. The route through which 
we pass flpom here to Cape]le«ia no w«.i ^jbSsssm*^ 



14 



MBCBLnr OATBEDBAU 



Route 1. 



ImporCanee* iMfdng it a ahort lUstinoe from 
hflM the province of Brabant, we enter, at 
Hond>e(^ the {Mrorinoe of Antwerp. Fa«ingfhe 
nrins of the fiunods valley of Selfendael, we 
arrive at 

Neohllni (French Malinee; German, Meeh- 
kn; Flemish, Michelen) Hotels : — 
EMd dela Ome, is an ezoellent house, wdldta- 
atad in the Grand Place, fSMing the cathedral 
The landlord and waiters speak English. 
]l5tel St. Jacques. 

The IfaUnes station is aboot five minutes walk 
from the town, whidi is one of the most pietnr- 
fliqae Flemish dties. An obelisk is here erected, to 
mark the point where the various Belgic lines of 
ndhrair diverge. The entranoe firom the railway 
station is fine. 

if^rAHn is a large town, in the province of 
Antwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It 
b equicUstant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Lou- 
vain, and contains a population of 25,000. 

The streets are broad, and bordwed in many 
places by good buildings. 

The river Dylepasses through the town, and has 
an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league 
beyond XechUn, in the direction of Louvain. 

This town dates its origin as &r back as the 
seventh century, and was long a sub'ect of con- 
tantion between the lords of Brabant and Flanders. 

The lace produced at Heehlin is considered 
second only to that of Brussels, from which it 
dUfers principally In being made in a single 
pleoe^ by means of bobbiu, by which the entire 
patterns are produced at once, instead of being 
worked gradually by tiie hand, and hence it is 
stronger tlian the Brussels lae^ though inferior 
te it in delicaey of workmanship. 

The principal buildittg <it Mechlin is the cathe- 
Aral, Which Is the metropolitan church of Belgium. 
It is dedicated to St. Bombauld, who was assas- 
sinated by the Fagani^ in 756, fai the diapel of St* 
Stephen, wlilch stood near ttie site of the present 
edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the 
latter part of the twelfth ce n t ur y, but was not 
finished until the year 1618. The round tower, 
which surmounts the bnOding, is almost entire^ 
composed of b uttre s ses , i^teh give it, when seen 
fhmi a distance, the appearance of » fragment 
at a colossal fluted oolnmn. It was oommenoed 
laI46a,firomtheltodssiippHedbythe oAMags 
^ib^p^fgiauk wbo 4ua»im enwda to MeoUtn, 



to share the advantages of the jubilee and general 
indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nicholas V., on 
the ocoasion of the war in tiie East, which how- 
ever, terminated the very next year in the 
annUUlation of the Eastern Empire, and the 
ooeupation of Constantinople by the Turks, un • 
der Mahomed. It was firom this Jubilee that the 
town acquired the name of ** Malines rheureuse,** 
as it has since, from its great cleanliness, been 
named ** Malines la propre." This tower is tluree 
hundred and fifty feet high, and has a dial plate 
of one hundred and forty-four feet in drcum- 
fSarence. The view from the summit, over the 
surrounding country, is extensive, comprising the 
towns of Antwerp, BruAds, and Louvain. It 
was originally intended to surmount the tower 
by a vane of copper gilt, which would have in- 
creased the height nearly one-third, but the pro- 
ject has never been put into execution, and the 
tower remains ui^nished. The alarm occasioned 
by the reflection of the moon on tiiis tower 
which gives it the appearance of being on fire, 
was the origin of the proverb of the wise men 
of Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon; 
the bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of 
the town, would even now, excite an irritation 
not easily to be appeased. The interior of the 
cathedral presents nothing worthy of notice, 
except the altar-piece, wliich is by Van Dyck; 
its suliiJect is the Crucifixion. The exterioe 
grand-fr^nt is ornamented with several statuesi 
amongst them are Faith, Hope, Charity, and 
the Apostles. In the church of Notre Dame^ 
behind the grand altar, is the Miraculous Draught 
j of Fishes, painted by Rubens espresdy for the 
! Guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his 
finest productions. In the same church an 
also a few fine pictures by Van Djdk. The 
traveler must take care not to confound 
this dmrdi with that called Notre Dame 
d'Hansioydi^ i^ich b remarkable for its 
beautiftd cupola, and also for its carved 
pulpit, representing the temptation and fiUl of 
Adam and Eve. This church owes Its orij^ to 
a miraculous image of the Virgin, which fioated 
in a boat against the stream, until it arrived at the 
spot where the church now stands, when it 
approached the bank aAd remained firm; of 
course a saored edifice to enshrine the image was 
immediately built; and equally of course^ the 
image repaid the devotion of the iahaUtants by 




Vttw ot QatnL 



Roiit0 2] 



TILYOBDE. 



16 



y erf un aiag numerous and stupendous ndradee^ 
idiich soon attracted pilgrims and offerings, 
sufficient to repay the expense to which they had 
put themselres. This purpose being annrered, 
the image no longer thought it worth while to 
exert its miraculous powers to protect itsdf, and 
It was destroyed by sacrilegious hands, when the 
town was pillaged, as aboye mentioned. The 
church formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and still 
bearing their name, deserves attention for its 
handsome gothic front, and also for a series of 
paintings, forming a history of St. Francis Xavier, 
the Indian Missionary. In the church of St. John 
•re four fine paintings, by Rubens, repr Aent)ag 
the Adoration of the Magi, the Birth of Christ 
the Descent frt>m the Cross, and the Resurrection. 
The streets of Mechlin are wide and nandsome, 
particularly that called Den Bruhl, in which is 
the splen^d hotel belonging to the Commander 
of Pitsembourg, of the Teutonic order. It was 
inhabited both by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. 
The magnificent garden is now open to the public. 
Near the Antwerp Gate is a small convent of 
Biguines, which deserves attention. In the 
chapel are some pictures worthy of notice. 

Mechlin also possesses a college, a public semi- 
nary, the catholic university, as weU as some 
societies for the cultivation of literature and the 
fine arts. The prindpal articles manufactured 
here, in addition to the lace which has been before 
mentioned, are leather. Jewellery, all kinds of 
woollai and cotton stuflSi,hats, combs, pins, oU of 
oolsa, and flax. There are also tan-yards, dyeing- 
houses^ salt-refineries, and factories for all tdnds 
of work in copper and tin. Considerable trade 
is likewise carried on in com, oats, hemp, flax, 
colxa, and hope. The Mechlin gingerbread, and 
the dish called d^eunw de Malines, composed of 
pigs' feet and ears, and acceptable presents to 
amateurs of such delicacies. John Bol, one of 
the earliest miniature painters, and Michael 
Coxis, an historical painter and pupU of B^>hael, 
were natives of this town. The boulevards 
and ramparts afford pleasant walks, and are the 
general rendezvous of the townspeople. There 
are two fidrsof fifteen days each,oommaidng the 
first Sunday after the 1st day of July, and the 
aeoond on the 1st of October, for all Unds of 
merdbandise; and on the Saint Saturday in Oc- 
tober, is a wdl-flreqnented horse and cattle fUr. 
1?he population is about 29,009, 



On leaving this station for Brussels the raH 
crosses the Louvidn Canal. On the east of the road 
between Malines and VUvorde, is seen the chateau 
of Rubens at St4in, of which he was proprietor. 

ViLvouDB, a small, healthy town, of 6000 in« 
habitants, situated between Malines and Brussels. 
It is one of the most ancient in Belgium, and is 
much visited by philanthropists desirous of 
inspecting the great prison or penitentiary, built 
in the suburbs of the town. The church of 
VUvorde contains some exquisite carvings in 
wood. In this town Tindal, the first English 
translator of the Bible, suffered martyrdom in 
1536. At present this little town has acquired 
considerable reputation, from its possessing an 
excellent boarding-school for the education of 
young ladies ; this establishment is conducted by 
Madame Flasschoen Michaux, and the concurrait 
testimony of innumerable Protestant famlUei 
represent it as being one of the best and most 
irreproachable institutions on the continent. 

The route on leaving the last station takes in 
the view of many beautiftd country seats, spread 
along the banks of the canal leading to Brussels. 
To the right, as we approach Brussels, is seen the 
Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King ot the 
Belgians. This palace was originally built for 
the Austrian Governor of the Netherlands. It 
was afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, and b 
remarkable as being the place where he planned 
his Russian campaign. It is enclosed by magni- 
ficent gardens and a park, and is 3 miles flrom 
Brussels. A statue ofMadameBialibran is erected 
in the cemetery at Laeken, where she is buried, 
her husband having brought her body frt>m Man- 
chester, at which place she died, to be interred 
here. The statue is a work by Guss, and b placed 
in a Und of temple. A beautiAil and lengthy 
avenue of trees (l'*116e vert) extends from 
Laeken to Brusseb. The railroad traverses the 
oppodte side of Uie canal and near the Botanical 
Gardens, opposite the Bue Neuve at the Porta 
de Cologne, enters 

Bbvsskls— (Route 7, page 31). 

BOUTB 2. 

IJlle to Brussels— («<o Mousoron, Tour- 
nay, Aih, and Jurbise).— Distance, 84 English 
oiiles. 



16 



TOURNAY— ATH— -SOIGUIBS. 



IRcmte'A 



AeserilMd in prmriom rovl% «! p«ge 6^ are first 



At the latter place traveUen for Toumay 
diaoge carriages, and luggage is examined. 

Lettering MouscRoir, we quit tlie line flrom that 
place to Lille, and find ouraelves on the branch 
one leading to Toumay. TotheleftisHereeaux, 
at the extreme point of the flrontieri rising to the 
■oath-east by the province of Halnault, into which | 
the road enters, verging for some miles towards 
the French frontier. Leaving the village of 
Eitampuls to the left, and that of Watreloos and 
hs church to the right both the latter of which 
we in France, the road passes the hamlets of 
Foumette, Jonquidres, and Esetaimbourg, the 
capital of a commune, and arrives at Nechin, a 
place of no importance. The next station is 

TucpuBOVB, a town containing 3,0(K) inhabi- 
tants. As we approach Toumay we see to the 
right the village of Froyennes^ the faubourg de 
Main, and the beautiAil promenade of the Seven 
Sisters, all forming a splendid panorama. Ad- 
vancing on, the railway eroe es the Rch^t by | 
a splendid viaduct of many arches. Look to the 
eight; what an admirable entrance to the town. 
A beautiful coup dcgU is formed by the bridges^ 
towers, houses, and rivers, all identified with some 
historical event. The terminus is i^proached, 
and we arrive at the station, on the Quay 
Eacaut. 

Tousnjlt: H^tel da Singe d'Or, the best. 
A Belgian d^, in the province of Hainault. The 
town itself is indifferently built, and has a gloomy 
a^)ect: it contains a population of nearly 
36,000, who are engaged in the manufacture of 
cotton and woollen stufb. The w<H*kmen labour 
at home, instead of in fisctories. Of the public 
buildings that of the cathedral is the most cele- 
brated ; it ia one of the most ancient and curious 
fai the country. The internal ornaments are 
nomwous. The choir is of a renuurkably bold 
and striking nature; the pulpit Is a gem, by Oilis, 
and the shrine of St. Eleu Marcus a masterpiece 
of workmanship in gold. There is also a beau- 
tifhl gallery, by Lecronx, of Tournay ; and four 
genii, the gems of the place, by Deqnf«noy. The 
pictures are, a Purgatory, by Rubens, and a 
Gmcifixion, by Jordaens. 

The Cfturo&es of St. Qnentin St. Platband St 

James, are interesting specimens of the prlmiUvf 

^1^01/0 jg(pste, rJbtf Cbtuvh of 8L Nieholas de 



Chateau is of remarkable arcnitectore^ and pos- 
sesses some fine picture*. 

Henry VUL captured Toomay in 1618, and 
bestowed it upon Cardinal Wolsey, who yielded 
it up to Francis I., and persuaded his royal mas- 
ter to sell the town to the French King, influenced 
by the promised interest of that monarch to 
obtain his elevation to the papacy 

The PvbUe Librcurp contains 20,000 vohimes, 
and several conous manuscripts. The cabinet 
of natural history, in the museum at the Hotel 
de Ville, Is worthy of notice. 

Post Oifice, Rue Notre Dame. 

Five#niles south-east of Toumay, to the right 
of the post road to Ath, is the battle field of 
Fontenoy, seen immediately after passing the 
village of Bourquembrays. In this q[»ot was 
fought the battle between the English, Dutch 
and Austriana^ commanded by the Duke of Cum- 
berland, and French under Man-hal Saxe. 

Quitting Toumay, the following stations are 
met with, none of which is of any importance . 
Hannes, Bary Leus^ and Llgne. After which 
we arrive at 

Atb, (Inns : Cigne and Paon d*or) a fortified 
town on the Dendre^ 21 miles from Tour- 
nay. A terrible fire In 1433, a hurricane hi 
1600, and an earthquake in 1691, and other 
disastrou" events dismantled Ath of all her 
monuments, &o. St. Julien*s Tower and the 
Parish Church alone escaped the conflagration. 
Ath sustained many deadly sieges. The forti- 
fications constructed in 1816 are strengthened 
with great care. The population is about 9,000 
At a short distance from Ath, on the Brussels 
post road, is Enghien, a town containhig about 
3,700 inhabitants. The beautiful park and gar- 
dens surrounding the chateau of the Duke 
D* Aremberg, destroyed during the French Revo- 
lution, deserve notice. At Meslin TEvSque, near 
Ath, the cultivation of the mulberry and silk- 
worm has been introduced with much success. 
The Belioel, 6 miles from Atb, not far from the 
road, is famous as the patrimonial estate of the 
Prince de Ligne,— illustrious in the triple capa- 
city of diplomatiBt, soldier, and author. 

MaiBes, Attre, Bmgelette, Lens stations, are 
nextmet with, and are all places of no tonportance. 

J uRBiss, a small commune, with a population of 
700 souls. It is about 8 miles from Mons by rail- 
way. The country along 4rom JnrUse to Braiijbe* 




Ponhallk«C«aMan^ 



Route 3] 



80I0NIES — ^BRAHTK-IiE-OOlfTE — ^HAL. 



17 



le-Comte b rather Intereftlng. Here there is a 
•(»TeqK>ndenoe with the railway from Mons. 

Solemn (Hoteb: Del'Ange; des Voyag^urs; 
de> Trois Rois) is the chief town of a canton of 
the proTlnoe of Hainault, in the district of Mons, 
with a population of 6,500 souls. Its origin is 
ancient. The church of St. Vincent is believed 
to be the most ancient in Belgium; from its 
shape, and by the style of architecture, it is cer- 
tainly one of the most curious. The beautiftilly 
•enlptared stalls are worthy of notice. The col- 
lege of Soignies is one of the most renowned in 
Belgium: it is still well attended. The principal 
trade carried on is in the qtianying of the Btone> 
known as tluU of Soignies. 
Post Office, near the church. 
Braine-lb-Cohte is a small ancient town of 
the province of Hainault, in the district of Mons. 
It is said ttiat Brennus, the Gaul, 391 >ears before 
Christ, fbimded a fortress and tower upon the 
site of tiie present church. The parish church 
is deserving of notice. The stone tabomade at 
the dioir is a fine piece of sculpture, but much 
dliflgured with gilding and painting. The flront 
of the convent of the Dominicans is an elegant 
stmotore. The principal hotel is du Cytme. 
The manufactures are chiefly cotton spinning 
and laoe thread spinning. On the right the line 
tnms oif to Charleroi and Namur. Travellers 
inoseeding direct to Namur and Liege change 
carriages at this station. 

The surrounding district here is celebrated for 
the superiority of its flax, the best grown any- 
where. It is employed in the manufacture of 
Bmsseis laoe. To the north-west, a few miles 
distant is Steenkerke, the spot where the Duke 
of Lnxonbourg defeated William III., with a 
ion of 7,000 men. in 1692. 

Quitting ths last station, the railway pierces 
the tunnel of Braine-le-Comte, and enters a deep 
ontting, passing Heunnuyres, a commune of the 
province of Hainault; and La Genette, where 
Jean Jacques Rousseau died in 1741, after which 
ttanrireiat 

TuBUB, a commune in the district of Nivelles, 
tai the province of Brabant, with a population of 
VMOtoola. 

Lembeoq: a town containing 2,300 inhabi- 
tanti^ with no ottleots of interest save its old 
clMtean and its numerous distillerios. Nothing 
worth notloe presaDti Jtsslf after leaving the 



Tubise station. Crosring the Sonne and the canal 
Charleroi, the next station arrived at in 

Hal (Hotel des Pays Bas) a small but pretty 
village of 5,000 inhabitants, buUt partly on the 
Sonne, and partly on the canal Charleroi. It bas 
no objects of particular interest, save the church 
of St. Mary, celebrated as possessing a mirade. 
working image of the Virgri*. It is of wood, two 
feet high, and has acquired immense wealth by 
pious offerings, including gold plate given by 
Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius U., &e. 
A side chapel contains thirty-three cannon baUs, 
aimed, it is said, at the church, and caught by the 
virgin in her mantie, which she had spread over 
the town to protect it during a bombardment. 
Tlie high altar deserves special notice, it being 
one of the most beautiAal in Belgium, made 
of marble, and sculptured, it would s e em , 
by Italian artists. Below is the tabernacle^ 
and tmdemeatb, St. Martin dividing his doak. 
The Seven Sacraments are represented on the 
bas relieft, admirable works of art at the lower 
rows, and the entire construction is surmounted 
by a pelican. The gorgeous font, of brass, cast 
at Toumay, by the artist Lefevre, in 1467, is 
worth seeing. It is placed in the octag<m bap- 
tistry of the church, and is covered with a spire, 
adorned by statues, and groups representing the 
baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. 

Leaving Hal, we pass the village of Eystngfaam, 
and crossing the Senne, arrive at 

Loth, about 5 miles firom Brussds. It has a 
very fine church, ridily ornamented, and having 
over the high altar a painting, by De Crayer, thi 
Martyrdom of St. Peter. 

Quitting Loth, the railway runs paralld wllb 
the canal Charleroi, passes Ruysbroeck and Forest 
stations. After which, it leaves the suburb of 
St. Gillis, crossing the. gate of Hal on thelofu 
the boulevard, and arrives at tiie south statioo. 
entering 

Brusskls— (Route 7, page 31). 

Route 8. 

London to Brnssels— («^I>o^er, Osten^ 

Bruges, Ghent, and MaUnes). 
London to Dover— ^Route 1, page 1) 
A mail and daily (except Sunda^^N wsibckscb^^ 

cation Tvo^ «aS%xa >i«x^wcv \iw«t *aA. '^^«*^»*^^ 



18 



O&SXSD, 



[KontoS 



nUfls, and the Toyage is made from 4| to6 hotin. 
FifteeD miles south the light of Dunkirk is seen, 
btfore the Oslend one shows itself. Two Jetties 
flank the Ostend harbour, which is dry at low 
water, and form very nice promenades. 

The Passport and Custom House Offices are 
quite dose to the harbour, and open daily, at 5 
•.m., in summer, so tbat tourists wishing to pro- 
ceed on theirrou<e neednot be delayed. A com- 
missioner will be always found at hand to attend 
to one's pasq>ort and secure places, for whose 
MTvioes a couple of francs will be demanded. 

Travellers going directfrom (Htend to Cologae 
e%n avoid the necessity of having their baggage 
searohed heie, by declaring it for transit, and 
delivering it over to the care of a railway official, 
who is to be found at the Custom House. On 
arrival at Cologne it will be delivered up on the 
production of the ticket. 

Ostend.— Hotels : 

Martian's New Hotel isa capital, first*rate house^ 
very comfortable 

Hotd d'Allemagne, German Hotel, facing the 
railway station and dose to the harbour. 

Hotel Fontaine, a flrst*6Iass house. 

Ship Brokers, Messrs. R. St. Amour and Son. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of each train. 

The Barbour of Ottend is formed by a natural 
inlet of the sea, which has forced a passage 
between two sand-hills. The south western bank, 
or beacli, b of a triangular shape, and poEsesses 
tome degree of elevation above high- water mark, 
and the surrounding flat country, so that, at half 
tide, it is completely peninsulated ; and on this 
bank tiie town is built. This inlet has been im- 
proved at different times. Ostend is a strongly 
fortified town, containing 18,000 inhabitants, and 
is placed between the sea and the harbour, being 
surrounded by water on every side, and encIo< ed 
with ramparts. The land all round is low, and 
the waters have to be controlled by sluices. It 
sustained a memorable siege of ^} years duration, 
between 1601 and 1604. 50,000 of the besieged, 
and 7( ,0i of the Spaniards who besieged it, 
under General Spinola, fell during the sei^e 
wbjcb was given up only by order of the * States 
OmttanJ. " The town was reduced to one heap 



of ruins. It was ceded in 1714 to the Emperor 
of Germany. Louis XV. entered it in 1745^ after 
aseige of 18 days, which all but completed ita. 
destruction. In 1826, the gunpowder ezidosfoii 
which occurred there committed great ravage* 
and inflicted much ruin on the place. Ustendi 
possesses a College of Navigation. The oyster 
parks are outside the Bruges Gate, and oughtto 
be visited. The town, but shabby in appearance 
contains, however, two good squares, or, as they 
are more properly called places. The Maison die 
Ville forms the entire side of one of them. It 
was formerly redkoned among the most mag- 
nificent structures of the kind in Belgium, being 
ornamented with two fine towers at each wing 
and a dome in the centre; but this superb 
building was nearly ruined by the bombardment 
of 1746. The body of the town-house still sub-* 
sists, but of its dome and two beautifld towera 
there only ranains the btump of one of them, 
surmounted by a wooden cupola. The churdb 
has no claim to ardiitectural merit, but the inside 
is richly ornamented. It has a lof ^ octangular 
steeple, with a very clumsy iq>ier, affording 
however, an excellent sea-mark. 

The Formicoctiont of Ostend are more than two 
miles in circumference. They were disnumtled, 
but had not been essentially injured. They are 
now nnder<^oing repairs and additions wliich will 
make them very formidable. As the place is 
situated on an elevated beach, the ramparts 
tow&r above the flat country, which being lower 
than high>water mark, can be speedily and ex- 
tensively inundated. The only hostile approaches 
are along the high sand-hiUs to the north and 
south ; the former is protected by a strong re- 
doubt, built by the late French government and 
called Fort Napoleon- It forms a favourite 
promenade. 

Ostend is a favourite watering place, and is 
much frequemed in the months of August and 
September. There are very many bathing ma- 
chines on the beach ; and near the sea, on the 
Digue, a bathing house has been established. 
There are steamers for London twice a-week • 
every Tuesday and Friday night, performing the 
voyage in about 11 hours; also ever; evening, 
except Saturday, by the British and Belgian go. 
vernment mail packets, to Dover in 4 J to 6 hours. 

Ostend to Bmges.— (Distance, 14 Eag" 
Ush miles). The railway, on leaving Oittnd 



18 

miles, Hid the t< 
Fifteen mUes SOI 
before the Osiex 
flank the Oslen 
crater, and form 
The Passport 
quite olo«e to th 
a.m.« in summei 
oeed on their rot 
miaaioner will be 
to one's passpoi 
MTvioea a couple 
TravellerBgoii 
o%n avoid the ne 
searobed heiOj 1 
deUveriDg it ovei 
who is to be fou 
tfrival at Cologi 
production of th 

Ostend.— He 

liertian's New h 
very comf or 

Hotel d*Allemai 
railway suU 

Hotel Fontaine, 

6h^ Brokers, H 

Onmibnses att 

The florftotfr 
inlet of the ses 
l>etweentwoBani 

or beach, is of « 
fome degree of e 
and the surroun* 
tide, it is complc 
iMUok the town ii 
proved at differe 
fortified town, c< 
is placed betweei 
■urrounded by w 
with ramparts, 
the waters have 
sustained a meno 

between lOOl an 
and 7i,OiO of tl 
under General 
wbJcsh waegivxjn 
Gmenl." The 



B«iito8] 



BRVaBI. 



19 



p rb ewd a thrmigh a oonntiy p w e nUn g norary 
Nmarkabl* appearanee, bafng rich in an agrlenl- 
taral point of view, bat flat and nndiTandflad in 
to general appearance. Tlie flrat ttatlon met 
wWi to Jahrkb, a commune with a population 
or 1,600, titnated a Uttie to the right of the rail- 
waj. It possesses no object of interest aare Ita 
amdent difiteau Plaaachendael. 
The Dnnidrk and Ostend Canals join here. 

Hotel lienr de Bl^ is one of the oldest estab' 
Uahments in the town, has been greatly im- 
proved, and is conducted on principles com- 
bining oomfbrt with the strictest economy. 
Landlord, Mr. Mees Oamot. 
Hotd de Flandre, an old-established house, 
famous for its fine wines and good dinners. 
Ltndlor**, Mr. Decker Cruyt. 
The raSway station at Bruires is on the Vry dags 
MarVt. The West Flandera RaQway is now open 
to Courtray, making a direct railway from Ostend 
and Bruges to Paris, via Lille, Amiens, &c. It is 
23 milfs shorter than by Ghent. 

On leading Ostend it is a very general custom 
for trayellcrs going to Oermany to take a railway 
ticket for the whole distance to Cologne, for the 
purpose of reaching the Rhine with the least pos- 
sihle dday. In so dohig, they depriye themselTes 
of tha opportunity of visiting the cities in Bel- 
glum, which possess more objects of interest to 
the lover of the fine arts, more pure and perfect 
specifhens of florid Gothic architecture, a richer 
collection of rare and beautiful paintings, by the 
old Flemish masters, than can probably be found 
in tbe whole of Germany. If, instead of hurry- 
ing in this hot-haste through a country which 
presents CO many points of Interest to travellers 
In general, and to Englishmen in particular, our 
countrymen were to devote a part of \heir time 
to Belgium, they would never rrgret becoming 
acquainted with its pecuruurities, Hs fine old cities, 
ita glorious monumrnts, it* arts and sciences, the 
people and their institutions. 

Bruges occupies a prominent place in the 
history of Flanders, the traveler will find this 
town especially worthy of notice— not that it 
presents the aspect of a populous modern city, 
but becausa it has preserved the pecuKaritics 
which disUnguished its appearance during the 
middle agea, when it waa tbe emporium of Euro- 



pean commerce, the reridnoe of aMrdnnt 
princes, ocoastonaUy that of the reignint aoire- 
reign, and when its population exceeded 200^000 . 
The mailed warrior or the gloved artizan meet 
no mere upon the fortifleationa the commtree 
which animated its quays and eanab is dlqterMd 
over Europe, its merdbants are no longer opiu 
lent as princes, the dty is no longer the capital 
of West Flanders. Tet though these tUngs have 
passed away, we cannot taifisr that it was in vain 
tliat Providence raised up this town to such a 
remarkable point of grandeur and importanoein 
a remote age. The dharaeteristie Intrepidity, 
activity, and proverbial turbulence of its artizana, 
the inflexible will and stonUness of its burghen, 
the aasodations of to merchante and traders, 
which led to that Inteardiange of opinion, ttiat 
communion and unity of sentiment so firtal to 
despotism and feudal oppreaaion, created and 
foatered that honest love of individual liborty, 
tliat regard and attachment for corporative and 
communal pririleges, for wliich the men of Ghent 
and Bruges struggled during several centuries. 
This deep attachment to local iostitutiona haa 
been merged into that of national patriotiam, 
and if the traveller, in conversing with an intel- 
ligent inhabitant of Bruges, deplore its depopu- 
lated streets, he will be told that if Brugea is not 
the great and important dty it was formerly, it 
haa still much to be tliankful for ; its dtlxens, 
instead of being at continual variance with their 
aovereign or the neighbouring towns, are now 
members of an independent kingdom, governed 
by a Prince of their own choice, with one of the 
most liberal consUtutions in the world<~that 
Bruges is no longer isolated in its splendour and 
solitude, but tliat it forms a oomponcnt part of 
the nation, and confident in the resources of the 
country for the gradual devdopment of an 
l^ranches of industry, it anlidpatea a return of 
comparative prosperity. 

BRuaRs is situate in a spadous and beantiftd 
plain, al>out six miles from the sea. It is inter- 
sected by a great numl>er of canals, and ia, 
indeed, the central point at which all the canal! 
of the province meet. 

The population of Bruges now exceeds 49i,600, 
and on /eU days the fine old dty w«ax%%.i^ vbAi. 
animated ap^^eaxaxiCA. *I\l%\A»^a^^ «lt^«'«cRba» 
of Brugea \» ot aAC\«t^ t«c«*»%»^ ^^» -«««•« 
generation \>^ no m«ikXA ^Sateoxkwax ^to^V*^' 



sc 



BBUOE9— 0ATHSDBAZ/—SOTSE DAME. 



[Bontea 



"FtfmotitBivgapudUt.^ 'When th^ are seen 
enveloped in the maatiUa of Spaniah origin, thdr 
brunette complexions and dark ^es render them 
moit pl^ftoreaque and pleasing otject among the 
many q^lendid and exquisite specimens of ardii- 
tecture with wliich their dwellings are adorned 
■nd embellished. 

*' Fair dty, worlliy of lier ancient flune I 
The MMon of lier spkaodonr la Rone liy; 
Tot ererTwhere Ite mnramente nmain, 
TomplM which rear their atetaly heeds on high, 
OinelB that Inteneot the ftrtlle plein. 
Wide sqnaxes and alro et a , with many a oonrt 
and halt 

** Bptudout and undefhoed, hut anoient alL 
When bnry teed of tilti. In daja of old. 
Of tonmaye, graced hy oiiieftadna of renown, 
Vair dames, graye flitiwna, and wanlDia bold. 
If ftncy oonld ponrtraj some stately town. 
Which of such ponq> lit thesitre might be. 
Fair Brages, I ahaH then reuiember thee." 

Somxr. 

Bruges contains very many ol(}ects of interest 
which will require a day at least to yisit. 

The Cathedral {St. Saveur). This beaatlAil 
church was founded in the seventh century by 
St. Eloy, and was greatly indebted for its erection 
to the liberality of Dagobert, the then King of 
France. It was entirely consumed by fire in 
1358, but was agidn erected, after a more magni- 
ficent scale, on the same t^ot, the charitable sub- 
scriptions of the faithful defiraying the cost. It is 
built of brick, and in its external appearance 
presents notliing remarkable or attractive, but its 
interior is admirable. The paintings are worth 
notice because of their antiquity, and reinresenting 
contributions to the history of Flemish art 
Immediately under the grand entrance are several 
works by J. Van Oost, the Bi^;)tism of Christ, 
Christ on the Cross, and Jesus leaving his Mother 
to ascend Calvary, being the principal. A small 
picture, with shutters, hangs at the south side of 
the aisle, representing the Mar^rrdom of St. Syl- 
vester, by Hans Hemling. There is likewise an 
excellent painting of the Last Supper, with 
Abraham and El^ah in the centre, and at the 
aide^ by Peter Porbus. On either side of the altar 
is a black and white marble tomb. The choir is 
adorned with tapestry executed by Vanderboight, 
along which are suspended the arms of chevaliers 
of the order of the Toraon d'or, presents trota 
M abmpUr cfibst carder, p]Mc^ in theeborohby 



Fhil^ the Gk>od, to whose memory a tomb Is 
erected in one of the diapels. In the north aide 
of the chapel of the Cordonnie are several 
monumental brasses, built into the wall, whidi 
may be looked upon as interesting qpedmens u( 
early Flemish art, in the fifteenth and aizteenth 
oentnries. 

Notre Dame is a dinreh no ways remariotble 
for its architecture, surmounted by a tower and 
stunted spire, 436 feet high. The most predons 
ornament of Notre Dame is a statue of tht 
Virgin and Child, said to be by Michad Angelo. 
If it be surprising to find a work by this great 
man in Belgium, behold the explanation. Thi 
work was painted for Genei^ and the vessel in 
which it was behig conv^ed was takoi by a 
Dutch pirate, who brought it to Amsterdam, 
where a Bruges merchant bought it and pre- 
sented it to this church. Horace Wa^K>le 
ofltared, in vain, for it 30,000 florins. There are 
many other excellent paintings in the church, the 
principal of which are the Adoration of the 
Magi, by Seghers ; the Adoration of the ShH»herds, 
by De Crayer ; an Infant Jesus, by Jacques Van 
Oost ; St. Anthony of Padua, an Assumption, and 
the Marriage of St. Catherine of Sienne. 

The Tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of 
Burgundy, and of his daughter, Mary, wife of the 
Emperor Maximilian, are to be seen in the south 
aisle of the choir. These were the last native 
soverdgns of the Netherlands. Mary of Bur- 
gundy died on the 27th of March, 1452; and 
Charles was killed at the battie of Nancy, in 1477. 
The monument of the Duchess was erected in 
1495. In 1558 FhiUpn. paid Master longehlinck 
j the sum of 14,000 florins for the execution of one 
similar to that of the Duchess, for his grandfather 
Charles the Bold. The eflSgies of both are made 
of copper, richly gilt, and repose at full length 
on slabs of black marble. Beneath and around 
the dabs are coats of arms richly enamelled. 
They have lately been re-gilt and deaned. Th^ 
are shewn to the public only on days of great 
solemnity, but strangers can easily obtain access 
to see them on other occadons. 

Vidtors will be well repaid by virits to the 
churches of St. Giles, Jacques, Walburge^ Anne^ 
&c. The Church qf Jerttsalem is the flruit of a 
vow made by a pious merchant of Bruges, wfao^ 
when in the Holy City, promised to bnild in Us 
native town. If ever he returned to it In MMgri a 



Route 3J BRUGES— CUUXICH OF ST. BASIL — ^HdTEL DE VILLE — PALAIS DE JUSTIGX. 21 



temple, on the model of that of Jerusalem, with 
an exact representation of the tomb of our 
Saviomr. The church also contains some fine 
specimens of coloured glass. 

In the Church of St. ScOvador are the Seven 
Acts of Mercy, by Van Dyke; the Resurrection, 
by Van Os; the Martyrdom of St. Barbara, by 
dels; and numerous other pictures. 

The Church of St. Mary is remarkable for its 
fine specimens of carving; the pictures are not 
of striking merit. 

Church of St. Basilf or of the Holy Blood is 
situated opposite the Town Hall. A beautiful 
Gothic fagade will attract notice. It Is called, 
Le petite ilgise de Saint BatUi, and tradition says 
that some drops of our Saviour's blood, brought 
by Count Thierry of Alsace, flrom the Holy 
Land, are now deposited in a richly Jewelled and 
enamelled shrine of gilt silver. This is shewn in 
the Upper Chapel, the shrine being exposed on 
every Wednesday to the veneration of the faith- 
ful. In this chapel are some beautiful paintings, 
and a pulpit, with medallions carved in woo l. 
Fifty cents are charged for admission. 

Hotpital of St. John, which is close to the 
drarch of Notre Dame. The period of its foun- 
dation is unknown. It is only known that tn 
1188 the governor prescribed many rules to the 
jeligious brothers and sisters of the house. It 
originally only received Magd^enes into it, bat 
now persons of every description are received 
and attended by the sisters. This institution is 
celebrated for possessing several beautifol pic- 
tures, painted by Hans Hemling, so remarlca^le 
fbr purity of colouring and brightness of tone, that 
the most indifferent spectator will find himself 
an admirer of their prominent beauties. In 
the chapter house are hung the portraits of 
some of the directors and superiors of the 
establishment, the celebrated paintingn, — the 
pride of the city and admiration of travellers, — ^by 
Hans HemUng, presented by him to the huspital, 
M a mark of his gratitade for the kindness with 
trhid) he was treated when a patient there. The 
other ol^ects are the Virgin and Child, the 
Marriage of St. Catherine, the Decapitation ot 
8t. John the BH>ti8t, and St John the Evangdist 
«t Patmos, with a Crudflxion by Franks, and a 
Holy Family, by Vandyke. The Belegary, or 
Chatu de St. Ursula, is worth notice, consisting 
•fa wooden oofllnr, painted b/ Hemling, In whidi 



is the arm of the saint. The sides are painted 
with representations of St. Ursula's pilgrimages 
and martyrdom. The history of these paintings 
is singular and merits a short notice. Hemling 
was originally a libertine and dissipated character 
at Bruges. He was engulphed in misery and 
became a soldier. He was not known as a oainter 
when a wound, received in 1477 at the battle of 
Nan(7, compelled him to enter the hospital as a 
patient. His wound was healed in a short time* 
but he so well liked the mode of life, &o., of tbo 
hospital, that he remained in it for six yearsj sad 
paid his expenses by painting these pictures. 

The Hdtel de ViUe is a beautiful gothio monn- 
ment, well preserved, founded in 1377 by Coimt 
Louis de Maele. It was formerly sunnoonted 
by six beautiful towers. The niches seen in 
front contained 33 statues of the Counts of 
Flanders, the designs of which are preserved in 
the beautiful work of M. Delpnire— T7^ AtmaU 
of Bruges. To-day these niches are empty. In 
1792, the troops of the French revolution cansed 
the statues to be destroyed as ** images of tyrants.'* 
They were burnt in the Grand Square in a bon* 
fire, the materials of which were composed of tho 
gallows, the scaffold, and the wheel. In tho 
Grand Hall of the building is the pubUo librarj 
containing 8,000 vols, and 600 MSS. The stair- 
case of the Hotel deserves notice, and also the 
paintings adorning it 

Palais de Justice is dose to the Hdl«}l de VfBn, 
and was formerly the residence of the Connts of 
Flanders, and was andently called Palate dn 
Franc de Bruges— the Palace of the Liberty of 
Bruges— a large district independent of the dtj. 
The interior contahfis little remarkable save ttM 
council chamber of the magistrates and Hm 
magnificent cliimney or mantel-piece. It is 
carved in wood, and to a ehef-dfceuvre of senlptnro 
in its way, induding statues of Charies V., Maiy 
of Burgundy, Maximilian, Charles the Bold, and 
Marguerite of York. The Story of Snsannah if 
represented on the marUe las-rdi^ decorat- 
ing it. 

Tour des HaUes, or Market Tower ^Ih fh» 

Grand Square, or market-plaoe, to held the an- 
ntuil fair, commencing the 4th May, and lasting 
15 ds^. There are also two horse fairs, of two 
days each, hdd the first Thursday afUct 'eaaMK^ 
and the 2fiitici I'^oScs. TVsb xcMaiu TDSK£taX ^s^ 
\ BquatQ )a «&sBa^kiitti^ wax wiA'«i8^.««»^P*^ ^ 




Iiith«oppo4t«eonMr«Ctb* Km St. Aranid it 
llm<foffb»Cr»<B<niKri,tri<mfcmaHyipter«^ 
faff m Mng th» prfani a# MailmiHan in 1487-8 

Mmt Um Em N«ordaHd it tiM F i 'l im iinhu f. 
In H Harf aertte of York, tkn^ to Edward IV^ 
WM marrtod, to 1468, to CbarlM tba Bold. 

Tha Arademy of Painting la In tibe boildfaif 
known aa Hat Faortara Hitfiv fornM*t7 tbe flie- 
iorjr of tba Blscajrana, and eontataa aoma wnj 
tea old paintings, bjr J. Van Ejck, Hana Bam- 
Uiiff* Trobna, and Claanana. 

Tba prlndpal manufacturaa of Brogai ara 
koa, wooUan staffs, camlats^ hati^ snoii; ehina, 

oarpats, tioking, dtraitiai^ and a Una 4ja wliieh ia 
paouUar to tba loom. 

Tba laoa-workart ara said to asoaad (MMOin. 
ttttmbar. Tbara ara also nomaroas salt and 
fOfar raflnarias, ropa walks, dyaing-bousss, bt«w- 
•rUi, dkitUlarlas, and blaaching grounds. 

Bnigas also contains a mosaum, with a tolaraUa 
OoUaotlon of pictures; a public library, and a 
botanic gardan, a tbaatra^ an academy of ilna arts^ 
•ad tararal Utarary and sdantiiio societies 

Tba EngUsb ohurcb sarvioa ia performed on 
•findays. 

Tba traot of country surrounding Bruges^ for 
IB milas, was former^ called t^JTr— Country of 



to the left a littla ilistsnrf firom tbe canal from 
Gbent to Brngea, and emcring tbe district of Um 
oomnonna of M. George, it qnita West and enten 
Bast Fbmdcrs. Shortly after arrinng it Aeltre^ 
a eoaamoBe of the district of Ghent, with a popo. 
latkmofMMfababitsntB, it is seen to the rig^ 
of tibe oanaL The road from here pasaea fbr 
minutea tfiroagb a ciitiing, and emevgins 
pammsnds a view of Bellem and Hans- 
beha tho former a Tfilaga of l,7uO inbabitantsi 
the latter one with 2,800. Tbe railway ia next 
carried over, by abridge^ the Cana* de Iferile^ 
which joins the canal tnm Ghent to Bmgef^ 
and arrives at Land^liem, a commune of tba 
district of Ghent, with a population of 2^000 
souls. Leaving here we croes tbe Lys by a bridge^ 
and arrire at Ghent. The Inidge qMmnmg th« 
Lys was tbe scene of a serious accident on flOth 
August, 1837, in which two railway ofOdals werf 
killed and one grieroosly wounded. 

Ghent station is on the south-east side of tb« 
town. On the high ground to the left, attha 
other side of the Scheldt, is the new dtadaL 
The Church of St. Pierre, with its dome^ ia saca 
on tba other side of the hilL 

Tba Chwid Cattal between Bruges and Ghent 
Is bounded by high banks, and lined with tall 
trees, entwined by pretty rillas and sweet gav« 



Qtun vo BKUsnuk— (Bae BoMta 10^ page SS), 



Bonte^l 



L0in)0ir TO AHTWIUIP— OXOE TBAMBSi 



28 



Bouts 4. 

IiOBdOB to Antwerp (hj the Scheldt).-. 
DIltuuM 210 miles. The ^reot route from Lon- 
don to Antwerp, via the Thames and the Scheldt, 
le moat pleMant and convenient. 

The steamers start from St. Kfttharin«*8 Wharf; 
Lendon, every Thursday and Sunday morning. 
They are qdendid vessels^ with excellent acoom- 
modatiou. 

Families in particular, who are going to the 
RUae, and wish to irolude a visit to Antwerp in 
ttielr tour, will find this route par extSOmcey the 
most advantageous. The fares are reasonably 
lofw; and the advantage of conveying that indis. 
penaable encumbrance— 4he lugfgag o f rom Lon- 
don to Antwerp without a ** transfer," will be 
appreciated by every head of a " family.** 

The sail down the Thames is firaught with 
characteristics ftill of interest. A perfect forest 
of mast% belouKing to ships of all sises and 
nations, looms oat in the Pool. Colliers, coasters, 
steamboat^, and river crafr, throng the Thames 
fai every direction, and the fleet of merchantmen, 
and the restless activity seen along the banki^ 
give a va«t ooncep'ton of the glories of that 
commerce which ha* enriched the eity of London. 
As the vesid prooeeds cautiously on, we are inte- 
reated by the granaries and wharfb on each side^ 
recognised as the largest in the world. 

The Totsev is on the northern bank of the 
Thames. It is a large p8e of building including 
•n area of- more thun twelve acres, and owes 
Ms irregularity to having bees erected and 
enlarged by various sovereigns at distant periods 
of time. Besides being the repository of the 
regalia, it is nvw used as a garrison and arsenal. 
Bt. Katharine's Dooks, adjacent to the Tower, 
occupy tw<»ntj-four acres, and were opened 1828. 

The Lfmdon Dock* come next, covering an 
area of thirty.foitf acres. In the vaults more 
than <ft,ROO pipea of wine can be stowel. 

The Thamet TumnA affords a cnrlona and 
convenient communication between Wapplng 
and Botherhithe. It is thirteen hundred feet 
long, and passes underneath the river at the 
depth of sixty-three feet. It was opened in 
184B, and cost £600,000. 

The TFest India Doekt extending acroM the 
northern extremity of the Isle of Dogi fhna 
XtaMboaio to BJMokwsU, irerv opened la 1883, 



and formed the first estabUshment of the Und 
in London. 

The CommereUa Dotki are seen on the ottior 
side of the river. 

Dbptfobd, with Its Docks and shipyards next 
daims our notice. A short distance farther and 
the '* DrfodMmghi** is seen before ns. It is now 
used as a marine hospital. 

Obbbrw'ch. with i*s fine observatory and hoa- 
pital, Bttndinff out boldly and picturesquely from 
the clustering f >1i%ge of the park, greets our view. 
For its description and hiitory. see BradAamfi 
Ovida through London and Ui tnoirom. The 
Isle of Dogs is on the opposite side of the river, 
and an abrupt turn in the river brings us to 

Blaokwall, with Its pier and the handaenie 
termhius of the BladEwall Railway. Just below 
the railway station on the left are tte new 
Victona Docks, recently opened. 

Woolwich, on the righ^ with its rotunda, 
cannon.foundry, arsenal, and barradn, Is now 
seen, and 

EaiTH, on the right, with its pretty rural 
diurch, immediately after. 

Oravxssrd, on the right, with the dope of the 
windmill-hill rising proudly behind the town, 
will next attract our notice. Tilbury Fort, witii 
its gate or blockhouse of the time of Henry Vm., 
lies across the river, and the widening expanse 
of water, enlivened by the constant ^wislt of 
vessels, presents to us a moving panorama of 
animated interest. 

From hence to the Nore there is nothing on 
either side of the river, deserving of a detailed 
notice. 

We sail almost in a straight line from the 
Thames to the Scheldt. The 'atter &tream ii> situ- 
ated immediately opposite the mouth of the Eng. 
lish river and the port of London. It cauffht the 
eye of Napoleon as suitable for a two-fold pur. 
pose, either to annoy the English in war, or rival 
them in commerce. Entering the West Scheldt 
at the mouth of the river, we see, on the left, 
Waleheren the most extensive of the nine ielands 
forming the province of Zeehmd. The dlstriet 
lies many feet below the level of the sea. Various 
brandies of the river Scheldt separate the islands 
one flrom the other, which are protected from 
the inroads of the qqmxl \s^ vn^^ \k>cE^ % w^ 



maw \a «3Uiat» ia5!i>Mi^\svT««iaa ^^•«^^«*^ 





f fio |»roirin#s, I, - *** "lit -i] 
^^ tl.- Il™t town w. ^,2^ •^•^ ''-'"'i'^n^' ^'^^^^ ^ 



.- ...^,.,,, „f ,. '•mix, 




' * 



I 1 

1- .•*Vi 



V w 



* :» 



to. 



* « 









•N 
I. \ » 










84 



FLOSHIKG — ^MlDDLKBima — TERNETrSKW. 



•btt of 9;00(l^000 florins. These dykes are divided 
bj engineers into two daases, called polddrs cala^ 
tttUeux, and poldert non-cal 'initeit.c — the former 
maintained at the expense of ^'ovemmer t, and the 
others by private itw ividuals. The country is 
as it were, partitioned out by dykes, the interior 
dlifences serving as a barrier against the ftirther 
ravages of the flood, should the outer dykes 
break. The great dyke of West Kappel rup- 
tured in 1808, and the waters burst in, inimdating 
the greater part of the island. In the streets of 
Ifiddleburg the sea was up to the rooft of the 
houses, and the strength of its walls only saved 
llie town flrom being destroyed. Com and mad- 
der are the staple produce <tf the province, which 
is very fertile. As we ascend the Scheldt, we see, 
now and then, peering over the artificial mounds 
endosing them, the tops of the spires, rooft, and 
tall chimneys of the towns and villages in which 
the province is very populous. The inhal^tants 
ci Zeeland are ejctremely industrious. 
Cadsand we see to the right, facing Walcheren* 
FLUsHnfo — (Inns : Engel, and Gouden Appel) 
is the first town we see on our left. It is situated on 
the right bank of the rivw, contains a dockyard, 
naval arsenal, and has a population of 7,000. The 
largest merchant vessels are enabled to get up to 
the town, and unload at the quays, by means of 
two deep and wide canals communicating with the 
sea. A great part of the town was destroyed in 
1809, when it was bombarded and taken by the 
English, under Lord Chatham, on which occasion, 
three hundred of the inhabitants perished. This 
cruel act was the only result of the naval expedi- 
tion of 1809, which consisted of thirly-seven ships 
of the line, twenty-three frigates, and eighty-two 
gun-shot boats, with a force of one htmdred 
thousand men. The defences of Flushing have 
since been much strengthened. The fort of 
Sammekens, on the east, and those of Breskens 
on the opposite side of the river, near three miles 
wide, together with the works of Flushing, com- 
pletely command the entrance to the mouth of 
the river. 

This place is remarkable as the birth-place of 
Admiral dc Ruitcr, to whom a stiitue lias been 
erected. The town hall and two churches, to- 
gether with one hundred houses, were destroyed 
bv the bombs and congrcve rockets of the English* 
We can see at West -Kappel, to the best perfection, 
tbe oonstraciiMi of the 4yke9. There Is a gap 



in the Dunes at this point, which is defended tf 
a dyke four thousand seven htmdred yards hM^ 
and thirty-one feet high : upon the stabUitj ^ 
this, the safety of the island mainly drprmM: 
Diligences rtm fh>m Flushing every hour tt^ 
MiDDLRBURo, the Capital of Zeehmd, containii^'' 
about 14,000 inlmbitants. It is a very dean tow» 
and has a magnificent town hall, with twenty-ll«« 
statoes of the Cotmts of Flanders and thafr 
Coimtesses. This town is famed as the ^aft 
wliere the telescope was invented, (n 160L b(f 
Hans Lippershey, a qMotade nmker. WaldiaNO 
has a most unhealthy dimate. On the ri|^ 
bank oi the river we see Zuid Beveland. 

BiERVLixT, a small town, a short distance oH; on 
tiie left bank, is only famous as the birth-plaoa 
of William Beukali^ who invented, fai 1386; th* 
art of curing heirings. In the diturdi here^ « 
monmnent was erected to him, and Chazies V. 
and his sister, the Queen of Hungary, visited it 
through respect to his memory, who focmded fnr 
Holland, the great staple trade of her wealtii. 
An inundation, in 1377, which drowned nineteen 
small towns and their inhabitants, detached 
Biervliet froia the continent, but every acre lost 
has ^ce been recovered by Dutch energy and 
industry. 

TEKKEasES is seen to the left. The sluice gates 
closing the entrance to the new canal, extending 
to Ghent, are close by it. This canal is 15 feet 
deep, and gives and serves as a drain to carry off 
the waters of the district through which it passes* 
There are sluices at Sas Van Gend, which can lay 
the entire cotmtry imder water. Piers and 
breakwaters of piles or masonry protect the arti- 
ficial embankments of the Scheldt firom the cur- 
rents andfloating masses of ice. Both banks of the 
Scheldt, below this place, belong to Holland, but 
the river flows through the Belgian territory. 
After we pass the terminatory point of the island 
of Zuid Beveland, which is separated from the 
mainland by a strdt, a passage called Kreek Baky 
Antwerp, with its tall and lofty spires, is seen as 
we approach Forts Lillo (rt) and Liefkenshock (I). 
These two forts complt'tely conmiand a view 
of the passage of the river. Up to 1839 they 
appertained to the Dutch, in whose hands they 
remained after the Belgic Revolution. In that 
year they were dismantled and given up to the 
BelgiariJs in exchange for Venloo, and in com- 
pliance with the treaty of the Quadruple AlUaooe. 



1 



r 



« 



« 



r 



I 



■V 



% 



Tba Dnkfl of Punu, Id 
ashiOdt Ua nlehnted ) 
bmrami lh« Cinia on tfa 
tlu tlgtatpbr m«iu ttwU 



tti ths Ontofa. Belbn 



bj thp beilBgad f 



deRroj the biidf*, bat 
0/ 5< Zomvn^ imaudlktdr 



Antwerp.— (In Fmnch, Anucn.)— Hotsli : 

Tbe Hotel St. AntoLns, one at the bcil In Eorof 

much ^cqueoted by thfl ICuglith tor 11 



faij recommoDded for ia comfim, clWb 

in, dTlUtj, nd clurgBt. 

Ill Gnnd LuboDmr, timet da Hair. 



a (tuv, ■ highlj 



nnedj, dgent o( I 
Compinj. 

iiognfi,»nJ25fJfr( 



illonlihoJ, I bib Id Um >d>iUi^i aat. 



ODtbebukiofUiBiobaldt. Iilicslabntodro- 
Iti uuinmoent dooli^ cautnotsd under &• 
dbvotlin of Kmgoltaa, wtalcta m c^piblt oT r»- 
oriflngtiTO thoiund >h^. Ai i fonow ptHod 
oflCifalitaiTi iBtwBrpoont»lned«|)opiil«tlooof 
MM^OM Holi, ud It ifaiB ImUnl K lUU ippaH • 
bnMUai thrirlng gjlf, with onlf S0,000 pcnon^ 
who And trnploynHBt In thg oooupittoniuftrrdcd 
b; ft! mulilnioonMiieFcH, ud iutiunDfkgtiiilp 
ofbU>Aiil]|.ltingu'nflnniei,ltanuiiilAHMBj- 
blHoblng, iDd amhroldar; or 1(0*. 
Oltjf cu of utiioUon to b* Men m Antwnpi- 
CuhBdnlwidQDniUBHUij'iWdll I 




Dloiu legend is priBirYwl In UiB oil; oat, 
onOibi two BmpaUted band^ * trtftDgnlkr 



r;. In tM lahurch dedloWedto 3t. Mtv 
■nd et. Piiul ni built b; Bt. Amud, vbo Ant 
led the Onpel hare. Tbe town wm lltar. 
nvaged bjibe NDnDUB,uid from BMCo 
IB In the ponqrion of tfaflMaort,vbo««r« 
lilted In th - iKtlei jrtr by the Inl 

prlvUeges granted to Antwetp by 
nt, hid atlniFted lo many . 



niddenblT. It* 



u'rtga.Uii 



26 



AXrWBBP^KOTBB DAMB. 



pSoute^ 



period the popnlatkm of the dty exceeded 200»000, 
among whom were 300 painten and 124 gold- 
smiths; 500 veneels entored the hmrbour daily, and 
2,600 was the arerage nwnber of those at andior 
before the dty. The taxes received in the dty 
anniaally amounted to 2,000,000 florins (£160,000)* 
the sums circulated every year by the commerce 
of the town exceeded 600,000,000 (£40,000,000). 
During the rdjn of the emperor Charles V., a 
merdumt of Antwerp, named Daens, having re- 
odftd tlie honour of his sovereign's company 
at dinner, dosed the repast by throwing into the 
flames the Emperor's acknowledgment for 
2,000,000 florins, which he had lent hkn, sayfaig 
that the loan was more than repaid by the honour 
of the visit. It was on this occasion that the 
Enqieror made the remarkable reply, which 
coming from sndi a mouth, is a never-to^be-for- 
gotten tribute to the dignity of commerce, **Ilfy 
friends! the nobles pillage me, the men <tf letters 
instruct me, but the merchants enrich me." From 
the time of the independence of the United Pro- 
vinces, the importance of Antwerp gradually 
decUned; the Dutch, with their usual policy, 
having made themsdves masters of the Scheldt, 
blocked up the entrance of the harbour, and by 
that means transferred to Amsterdam the greater 
part of the commerce of Antwerp. In 1576. the 
Spanish garrison having been left for a long 
time without pay, rose in a revolt, burnt the town, 
houses pillaged the dty, putting to the sword 
more than 10,000 inhabitants. In 1582, the Duke 
de Alen$on, having been unsuccessfiil in his 
attempt to gain the hand of Elisabeth of England, 
arrived in Antwerp, where he was inaugurated 
Duke of Brabant, in pursuance of the treaty made 
in 1680, at Plessls-les- Tours. In 1583, the Duke 
contrived to introduce a numerous body of 
Frendi troops into tne territory, with whose 
assistance he endeavoured to establish himself as 
the absolute king of the Low Countries, but, being 
defeated in his attempt by the resolute resistance 
«f every class of the inhabitants, he retired to 
Chateau-Thierry, where he died of grief, in June» 
1534. It was at Antwerp that the cdebrated 
truce^ for twdve years, between Belgium and the 
United Provinces was signed, on the 9th of April, 
1S09. In 1700^ the Duke of Marlborough took the 
town, and in 1746 it was successfully besieged by 
the Frendi, but restored to Austria in 1748, by 
/dv tmur ofAIX'-k^ CJmpeUe, After the French 



revolution it was firequently taken aadiw-takea 
by the Frendi and Austrlansy but nsnained 
quietty in the possession of the former firom 1794 
until 1814, when it became part of the new kiag* 
dom of the Netherlands. By treaty made between 
France and Holland, in 1795, the mouth of the 
Schddt was re-opened, since that period, the 
commerce of Antwerp has been reviving, and, ■• 
the navigation of the Scheldt is now dediured 
open, it is fltst regaining, at the expoue of Ams- 
terdam, the commercial advantages of which it 
had been deprived. There b no town in Bdgimn 
whidi possesses so much attraction as Antwerp. 
It literally abounds in the ridies of art, and seveial 
days, at least, should be devoted to an attentife 
examination of its treasures. The churches daim 
oiur first notice. 

The CotAedral of Notre Dame is the most 
splendid Gothic building in Europe. It was com* 
menced about the middle of the thhrteen th centoij 
and occupied 84 years in building. It is 600 feet 
long by 230 wide, and 360 high, and contains 230 
vaulted arcades, supported by 125 columns. TlM 
tower is 466 feet high, and the ascent to it Is by 
622 steps; it was commenced in 1422 fh>m designs 
by the architect Amelius, and finished in 1618. 
The exquisite lightness and purity o'' proportion 
exhibited in this tower are unequalled ; the view 
firom the summit extends over an immense ex- 
panse of flat country. It was intended to have a 
second tower of the same height, which whs com- 
mencrd, but was never built higher than the first 
gallery. In 1540 a ddme of 60 bells was added to 
the tower. On entering the cathedral by the 
prindpal nave, the eye is struck with the magni- 
ficent cupola; in the ceilmj is seen the Virgin 
surrounded by Angels with m.foMed whigs. 
Approaching the choir we perceive the grand 
altar, executed in marble from the deigns of 
Rubens, and ornamented with his immortal woric 
representing the Assumption. In this cathedral 
are also the Elevation of the Cross, conristin g of 
a centre with two wings, and the Descent from 
the Cross, to which have been appended, as wings, 
the Visitation and Purification of Mary. These 
pictures are in Rubens' best style, the anatomical 
precision with which every muscle is delineated 
by the Elevation is beyond praise ; in the Descent 
the right arm of our Saviour deserves particular 
notice. It would be impossible to particularise in 
detail all th«obiecta of iniereii fai this iplendii 




•"■poWtlnSI. AnJfBw'l, Antwtrp. St. l»n«»» t3wsiii«. 



Eoute4J 



A UTWJtm v-caEnmcBnB of sis. jakis, audbevt, and paul. 



budding, bnt we rniut mentkm the dutpel of the 
Sacrament, the altar <tf which, ezecated by Ver- 
bniggen, repreaenta the H<dy Axk, and ia orna- 
mented by a qdendid picture of the Disdolea at 
Emmaua» by Herreyres ; the portraita of Luther, 
CaMn, Eraamns, and the other now celebrated 
reformen, contained in a lecture rq^reaenting 
our Saviour disputing with the Doctora, by 
Franck, the elder. The tcnnb of Ambroee Cap- 
pflOo, seventh bishop, deserrea particular praise, 
the pulpit, also by V erfomggen, the white marble 
figure sculptured by Sdieemakes^ on the tomb of 
Van Delft; the mausoleum of theprinter,Moretn8, 
enriched by the pencil of Rubens, and an exquisite 
picture of the Marriage of Cana, by Martin de Vas. 
This cathedral formerly contafaied 32 altars, all 
of white marble, bnt one only escaped the devas- 
tating ftiry of the i«voIutionary mob. Near the 
foot of the tower, outside the cathedral, is the 
tomb of Quentin MaXaja, with this inscription : 
** Omnubialis amor de muliebra fedt ^pelem." 
This epitaph commemorates the fSsct of Mat^ 
baying abandoned his original trade of a bladc- 
amith, in order to study painting and render 
himsdf worthy of the hand of his beloved, the 
daughter of Flors, a painter, who had resolved to 
have none but an artist for a son-in-law. After 
indefatigable study for many months, Matqys 
b^an to hope that he should succeed in his new 
undertaking, but had not determined in what 
maimer to make his first attempt to win the pro- 
fessional approbation of Flors, when being one 
day in the artist's study, his attention was strudc 
by a aingnlar painting called the Fallen Angels, 
widdi Flors had just finished, after immense 
labour, and which he considered as his master. 
piece. Actuated by a sudden and irresistible 
Impulse, Matqrs seized a pencil and painted an 
enormous bee crawling on the thigh of one of 
tiie Angels. Such an exploit would have ruined 
tiie young aspirant with most artists, but Flors 
had seen enough to ^predate the taleni. dis- 
played in the execution, and not only forgave the 
fiwyUy manner of its development, but rewarded 
the artist with his daughter's hand. The picture 
la atUI preserved in the Museum. Nearthistomb 
la the fiunous weQ, the iron work of whieh was 
entirety made by Malays with the hammer, and 
wtthont the use of fllei^ proving that he waa as 
«mliMBt in Ida original trade as in his adopted 
Ob Bmdaya and liigh feativala the 



27 



of the great Gennan oompooni an 
admirably performed in the cathedraL 

The church next in inqportance is fliat of 
^. James; it is of great extern^ and adorned wUh 
a number of Ionic columns in marU^ s upp o rtin g 
the great entrance; the marble gaUery and th0 
grand altar, inlaid with white and black marble^ 
and supported by twisted columns, are perftet 
spedmens of art. In this dmrdi is the tomb of 
Rubens; near it is a picture by himself, refv^ 
senting the infant Jesus dtting on his mothflf'f 
knee^ surrounded by a number of flgnres^ all of 
whidi are pOTtraita of the painter, his wives^ and 
fkmily; one of the females re pre se n ta the original 
of the celebrated Ghapeande Faille. ThepnJM 
diastely and el^antly sculptured by WHlemseHb 
merits attention, as do all the windowa. The 
various chapels, 28 in niunber, are built witti 
marble of different colours; in that dedicated to 
the Holy Sacrament, is a q;tlendid picture of tiie 
Last Supper, by Otto Vennius, and three admi- 
rable pieces of sculpture St. Peter, by Werfamg- 
gen, St. Paul, by WiUemaeni^ and the First Fersoii 
of the Trinity, by Quellyn; and in that of St. 
Roch is a magnificent picture of the sain^ Iqr 
Sobers. The Last Judgment, by Van HeemseOt 
is a singular picture, deserving attention ftom tli0 
peculiarly vivid tint whidi the robes have re- 
tained, though more than 800 years have d^wed 
since it was painted. There are numerous other 
works of great merit, bnt it is sufficient to draw 
the attention of the tourist to the above at tiie 
inrindpal. 

The Church of 8t, Andrew was made a ptro- 
chial dinrdi in 1629, by Margaret of Austria, tli0 
dster of Charies V . of (Jermany, on the oeoasioa 
of her signing with Louisa of Savoy> DudMM of 
Augoul&ne, the mother of Fhmds L of Fra&M^ 
the treaty of Cambay, which, negotlatedand ooa- 
duded by the talenta of two women, broufl^ to 
a termination (though nnfortunatdy but for • 
short time) the long pending wars between fhoao 
powerful and rival princes. In this dmrch ve 
numerous marble altars of great beanly, and 
several fine pictures, the prindpal of i^i&di an 
the Martyrdom of St. Andrew, by Otto Vennioi^ 
and the Guardian Angd, by QneUyn. It alio 
contains a portrait of Maiy, Queen of Sooti^ aad 
a marble mansdeom executed to her meoiocy 
at the expense of two English ladiea. 



28 



ANTWERP — CHURCH OF THS AUGUSTINRS. 



(ltoiite4 



ISMS by Henry m., Duke of BralMuit» and oon- 
tains nttmeroaa fine paintings, among wlii<di are 
the Adoration of the Miepherda and the Scourging 
of Christ, by Rnbens; the Descent from the 
Cross, by Cels; Christ in the Garden, and the 
Seren Works of Mer<7, by Teniers the elder; 
Clurist l>earing the Cross, by Van Dydc; a Head 
of Christ, by Otto Venius; Christ Crudfled, by 
Jo rdaens ; and St. D<miinie, copied from Correg. 
fio^ by Crayer. A globe, with Time holding an 
Arrow, which points to the hours in succession, 
forms the dock, and Is a curious piece of me- 
dianism. Near the entrance of this church is 
the celebrated representation of Mount Calvary, 
benaath which is the Tomb of Christ, containing 
an image of the Saviour in a shroud of superb 
silk, surrounded by a vivid picture of Purgatory, 
the flames of which are reflected on every side, 
while the horridly grotesque expression of the 
t<Mrmented souls inspires, at first sight, a senti- 
ment of involuntary awe, which stifles and sub- 
dues the perceptions of the ridiculous arising 
from a more detailed examination of the same. 
In the C%t(rcfto/tAe^t4{rtutines is an admirable 
lecture by Van Bree^ a living artist. It repre- 
sents the Baptism of St. Augustine, and is 
remarkable for the beauty of its colouring. The 
Bfartyrdom of St. Appolonius, by Jo rdaens, 
St. Augustin^s Vision, by Van Dyck, and a series 
of designs representing the principal events of 
the life of St. Augustiu, are not to be passed 
- over without notice. The pulpit and the grand 
altar, the one carved the other sculptured by Wer- 

• bruggen, are also much admired. The church 

■ of St. Anthony contains only two good pictures, ' 
a Dead Christ, by Van Dyck, and St. Francis | 
receiving the infant Christ trma. the hands of 

■ his mother, by Rubens. The diurch of St. 
Charles Borromeo was formerly the most costly 

• edifice of its dze in Europe ; it was commenced 

• by the Jesuits hi 1614, and finished hi 1621 . The 
most boundless expense was lavished on it ; the 
finest marble was brought from Genoa for its 
eonstmctlon, and the whole was completed ftt>m 
the designs of Rubens. The great altar was 

• formed of marble, porphyry, Jasper, and gold ; 
and the shrines of the Virgin and St. Ig^natius 
were of dazzling magnificence. But this splendid 
edifice was destroyed by lightning in 1748, and 
the present imitation of it in stone has supplied 
Its plaoa. The most remarkable pictures are. 



Simeon in the Tanple^ by Delhi ; the Aisainptiaii, 
by Schut, and a Priest administering the Sacra- 
ment to a Knight, l^ Crayer. In the duipd of 
St. Ignatius is a communion-table ci Carrara 
marble, sculptured in the finest stg^ of art, by 
Van Papenhaved. The Museum is the finest ia 
the kingdom, and contains 127 pictures by the 
iirst masters of the Flemish school; amongthem 
(in addition te the picture of the Fallen Angels 
we have befrare mentioned) are the Martyrdom 
of St. John, the Burial of Christ, and the Head 
of John the Baptist, by Quentin Mat^ya; a Holy 
Family, the Virgin intercedhig for the souls in 
Purgatory, the Communion of St. Francis, Jesus 
shewing his wounds to St. Thomas, the Adoration 
of the Magi, St. Anne teaching the Virghnto read 
(an exquisite picture of still life), Christ between 
the Two Thieves^ and numerous others by 
Rubens (the last mentioned picture is, perhaps^ 
the finest spedmen of the artist's genhu; the 
impenitent thief is depicted with a fidelity almost 
too horrible to be contemplated); a Dead Christ, 
Christ on the Cross, St. Catherine of Sienna, 
St. Dondnic, and others, by Van Dyck; St. Luke 
before the Proconsul, the Charity of St. Nididas 
to a Poor Family, and others, by Otto VeO' 
nius; the Last Supper, the Adorati<m of the 
Shepherds, and others, by Jordaens; the Resur- 
rection, by Martin de Vos ; the Adoration of tbe 
Magi, by Albert Durer; Portrait of St. Ignatius 
surrounded by & garland of flowws, by Seghen 
and Schut; &c. The diair of Rubens is 
likewise preserved here, and in an adjoining 
apartment is a fine collection of casts. In 
the garden ot the Museum are several busts, 
and a bronze statue of Mary of Burgundy orna- 
menting her tomb. She was drowned in at' 
tempting to save the life of her dog, whose hnage 
likewise forms part of the monument. This 
Museum may always be visited by strangers 
without difficulty. There are also several private 
collections, which are shewn to travellers with 
great readiness ; the most remarkable is that of 
M. Van Lancker, in the place de Mer, which is 
rich hi most carefully selected specimens of the 
best masters. There is also a Museum of Natural 
History in the Rue du Convent, which is worthy 
of attention. There is a public Academy for 
paintings, sculpture, architecture, and engraving, 
which was originally fotmded in 1464, and wss 
taken under immediate patronage of royalty in 



Boiite41 



ANTWJEBP— IBB CITADlXr— BdTBL SB TXLUL 



29 



1817. An iounense number of yonng artiitB 
■tody there. A society for the encouragement 
of the fine arts has long been established, whieh 
distributes prises every third year, to artists of 
merit; the allotting of the prizes is preceded by 
an exhibition, to wliich none but the wcnrks of 
living and native artists are admitted. 

The atadd was originally built in 1568, by 
Facdotto and Cerbelloni, under the direction cnT 
the Duke of Alva; it Is of immense strength, 
being in the form of a pentagon, with dz bastions, 
which command each other, and are defended 
by deep and broad trenches. This fortress for- 
merly contained the bagne^ or place of detention 
for criminals condemned to hard labour. It con« 
tains fifteen wells, and a handsome church, in 
which protestant service is peformed. When 
Camot was governor of Antwerp, under Napo- 
leon, he spared no pains to strengthen these 
fortifications, and succeeded, as he thought, in 
rendering them impregputble, but they opposed 
a very ineffectual redstance to the progress of 
the English arms in 1814, when the town vras 
taken, after a bombardment which nearly de- 
•troyed the whole of the docks. But the event 
which gives the citadel of Antwerp its greatest 
interest in modem times, is it siege and surrender 
to the arms of France at the dose of the year 
1832. From the period of the revolution, which 
divided Belgium from Holland in 1830, the 
Dutdii had retained possession of the dtadel, 
whidi commands not only the navigation of the 
Schddt, but holds the entire dty of Antwerp at 
its men^. The forts bdow the town, on each 
.side of the river, were also in the hands of the 
Dutch, so that the late mowyrch had the control 
of the commerce of Antwerp as effectually as at 
any period during his rdgn. To put an end to 
the incongruous state of things, after upwards of 
two years spent by Great Britain and France in 
fruitless endeavours to effect a pacification be- 
tween the parties, these two powers resolved 
upon employing force to compd the King of Hol- 
land to relinquish a position which gave him so 
dedded an advantage^ and which also kept both 
countries in a state of agitation and warlfice 
invparation, the evils of which were not very in- 
ferior to those of war ftsdf . A combined Eng- 
lish and French squadron was therefore dis- 
patdied to blockade the mouth <tf the Sduldtby 
•Bv, while an impodng Flrendl twod, vndm 



Marshal Gerard, proceeded to lay riege to the 
citadel and the adjacent forts t^ land. The 
Frendi army was mndi larger than was deemed 
neoeesaiy for the mere reduction of the foxtnm, 
but the Prusdans had established a large oorpi 
of observation on the right of the Meuse^ and 
the King of Holland, en his side, had levied a 
powerftil force, whidi was kept ready for action 
within a few leagues from Antwerp ; consequently^ 
in order to be ready for every eontingencqr, 
the army under Marshal Gerard was sndi as to 
ensure its success; it oondsted of nearly 50,000 
infiantry, 8,000 cavalry, and a tremendous train 
of artiUery, The siege of 1832 commenced on 
the 29th November, and terminated on the 23rd 
of January, 1833, in the surrender of the gar- 
rison. The Frendi, under Marshal Gerard, 
amounted to 66,000 men. The late Duke of 
Orleans commanded the troops in the trenchea. - 
The best proof that could be given of the deter- 
mination and bravery with which Goieral Chaose 
had defended the trust confided to him, wu 
found in the state of the fmrtress when entered 
by the victors, all the places whidi had been 
bunt and conddered bomb-proof were discovered 
to be in a state of utter devastation; hei^s of 
ruins, black and smoking from recent conflagra- 
tion, marked where buildings had previoad(y 
stood, and even the hospital whidi contained tiM 
dck and wounded, and amputated soldiers, and 
which was so placed as to be^ at least com- 
paratively secure, was found to have been so in- 
jured as to threaten momentarily to fUl upon 
the heads of the inmates ; the loss of the besieged 
was stated at 90 killed, 349 wounded, and 67 
missing; that of the Frendi, 108 killed and 68T 
wounded. The order of the day of the Frendi 
Marshal stated that 14^000 metres (between 
eight and nine miles) of trendies had been opened 
during the dege, and 63,000 cannon-baiis ffared 
atthedtadd. An application through a laquai 
du place to the Hdtd de Ville will obtain aa 
adnUsaiiOn to see the dtadd. 

The Hdtel de ViUe is dtuated in the principal 
market-place, in which the markets are held every 
Wednesday and Friday. It was built in 1681, and 
enlarged in 1713, by pulling down twenty-nine 
houses. It has a flrontage of 250 feet long, and 
is adorned with statues of *be Virgin, Justioet 
and Fmdence, with Ch0ae«Msttss]\Mk. '^?b»^*q^>^ 



90 



ANTWBBP— THB BOUBSB— 'THOROUT. 



[SoutoS 



thif buil<&ig is an extomlTe Public Libnuty, and 
a ooUection of ancient and modem pictures. 

The Bourse is prindpally remarlcmbte as naving 
been the model firom wUdi Sir Thomas Grediam 
formed liis design for the Royal Ezcnange of 
London; it was commenced in 1631, burnt down 
in 1583 and finally completed in 1584. It is 
one hundred and eighty feet long by one hundred 
and forty wide, surrounded by forty-four stone 
columns, supporting a gallery. It lias two towers, 
with a clock and a sun-dial. Above the Exdiange 
is the Academy of Fainting, and beneath it are 
•abterranean warehouses for the use of the mer- 
diants. The form of the City of Antwerp re- 
lembles a strung bow, the string being repre- 
sented by the Scheldt, in contains twenty-three 
public squares and upwards of two hundred 
•treets. The most beautiful is the place de Meir 
in which is the royal palace, wliich was pur- 
diased by N^>oleon, and ftimished by liim 
for his own residence. It contains a few 
fine paintings. In the place Verte, a square 
handsomely planted with treei^ are held on the 
17th of May, and on the 16th of August, fairs 
which last thir^ days, for merchandise of all 
kinds; here also is the handsome building in- 
habited by Camot, while governor of Antwerp. 
In the square, called the place Yendredi, is a 
house the front of which is raabellished with a 
figure of Hercules accompanied by a woman, 
bearing the inscription ** Lahore et Constantia." 
This was formerly the printing house of Christo- 
pher Plantin and his successor, Moretus. The 
town also contains a Theatre, a Circus for the 
•zhibition of horsemanship, an Athenaeum, a 
Ifont-de-Fi^td, a Foundling Ilospital, four 
Aqrlums, one of which is tor foreigners, and 
five Hospitals. Antwerp is the birth-place of 
Crayer, Rubens, Van Dyck, Jordaens, the two 
Teniers, and Ommegank, all painters of the 
first class; Edelink the engraver, Ortelius the 
geogn^her; Grammage, Butkers, Sanderus, and 
Vammeteren, historians; Moretus the printer, 
and Stockmans, whose legal disdsions are of the 
greatest authority in the Belgic courts. The 
bouse of Rubens still exists; the street in which 
it is rituated now bears the name of the painter. 
The public amusements of Antwerp are not very 
attractive, but the private society is excellent, 
and the numerous associations called **banno- 
aim** in which the best compositions of toe best 



masters are admbrably performed by axoMimn, 
win afford greatf pleasure to the lover of mnale. 
Admission to these meetings is readily obtained 
by any stranger of respectability. There are 
public batlis in the place Verte and in the 
Evianade. The environs of Antwerp afford 
beautiful walks, particularly in the park, whidi is 
situated Just outride the gate leading to Brussda. 
Steamers firom Antwerp to London twice a week • 

Post Office, Place Verte.— Letters can be posted 
at any of the Branch OflBces, at the Bourse, fte. 

Conveyances. — ^Railway trains to Ghent direet; 
to Malines and Brussels ; to Malines, Liege, Ver- 
viers, Aix-la-ChapeUe, and Cologne. 

Steamers to Rotterdam daily in summer: to 
London, e^ery Sunday and Wednesda}-; to Hull 
every Wednesday. 

KoUTB 5. 
Brnges to Coartray. 

Bruges.— See preceding Route. The first 
station arrived at is 

Thokout, a small town situated in a fertile 
district, remarkable for the ooanufacture of coarse 
woollen doth and excellent lace. Its only objects 
of attraction are the large Collegiate Church and 
Stadthuis. The Castie of Wynendale is close by. 
It was in tUs place that the Bishop of Ltaicoln 
and his colleagues negociated the marriage of 
Edward, Prince of Wales, with the daughter of 
Philip, King of France, and that of Edward I., 
the Prince's father, with the sister of that monardi. 

LiCHTBRVELOB, a Station of no importance. 

RouLBRS, a small town picturesquely dtuate on 
the Mander, amidst beautiful meadows. The 
church of St. Michael, to the rear of the west side 
of the market-place, a small structure with a 
l>eautiftd spire, and the StadthviSj an old building 
situated in the market-place, are worth a visit. 

IsBOHEM, a station of no importance, whert 
the railway crosses the Lys, and arrives at 

CouRTBAT. — See route 1. 

From Bsucns to Courtrat. — The trains cor- 
respond with the government trains going to 
Ostend, Ghent, Brussels, and Antwerp. Tidcets 
for Ostend, Ghent, Brussels, Liege, Mouscrooi 
and Touroay, are delivered at Bruges, Thouront^ 
Roulers, Iseghem* and Courtray ; and in the great 
stations tickets are delivered for Bruges, Thouiw 
I out, Liohtervdde, Iseghem, Courtray. Passen* 
1 gen arriving firom Paris by the night train, or 







aoaiaelorf, wb»n Viej repraKiit onUln hoUli \ '*" 



wW* to •«& Vi nojiift »*»"*«•* ' 




T W^J-"-..«»l > 



.^_..^.-. cji .^i«bj:.<_-. 4-;: 



TPBES— CATHEDRAL OF ST. KARTZBT— BRUSSELS. 



W 



Jafr by tho 2 a.m. trdn, will find at 
D a train going direct to Ostend. 
CovHTBAYToBBuaEs^The trains cor. 
Rt Conrtray with the trains for Mouscron, 
, LUle, and Paris, by the Northern Line, 
between Bruges and Courtray : First 
rancs ; second, 3 fir.; third, 2 fir. 

Route 6. 

tray to Ypres. — There is railway 
ioation opened between these places. 
'icAT. — Route 1. On this route we pass 
;e of Bisseghem, near which the Duke 
was defeated in 1793 by General Sonham, 
I the occasion 70 pieces of cannon. 
, a fortified town, situated on the Lys, 
parates France fh)m Belgium. It con- 
opnlation of 8,000 persons. 
-(Hotel, La Ch&teUenie Tete d'Or)-^ 
d town, situated on a beautiful plain, 
taining 16,000 inhabitants. This place 
lerly rery unhealthy, in consequence of 
ihes surrounding it, but these baring 
ie drained, much of the foetidness of the 
lias departed. In tlae 14th century it 
1 200,000 hihabitants, and kept 4.000 
instantly at woik. It is famous for its 
ture of linen and thread, producing the 
linen which we call diaper, so much 
oughout the world. With its former 
r hare departed the monuments of its 
eatness, the only relic of which, now 
ig, is the town house called 
iUes, situated in the great market place, 
og, low building, very extensive, built In 
ic style of architfe'Tture. 
cOhedral of St, Martin may be worth a 
is built in the Gothic style, and contains 
Mttly carved pulpit, and a painting, said 
Van Eyck. The subject of it represents 
' of the Fall of Man. In the choir a long 
nts out to the visitor the tomb of Jansen, 
of Tpres, who died in 1683. He was 
of the sect called the Jansenists, and 
and violently persecuted by the Jesuits. 

Route 7. 

Mfls to MoDg and l|iilevralD« 

"f^lit.— Caution — Travellers are reoom* 
not to believe cab drivers and omnibus 
oir, when they represent certain hoteli 



asbetaigftdltbnttohislstoabdng pot down at 
the house they wish to go to. 

Omnibuses fh>m the station to the hoUia, ftr» 
ha]f<4ufhmo each person, and a trifle extra flir 
luggage. 
Hotels >~Hotel de Flandre. This old estaWMted 

and highly recommended hotel is still eon- 

ducted by BCadune Hasten. It has been 

greatly enlarged, and the table dThdte is ae 

good as ever. 
Hotel de lllnrope^ a first rate old established 

house enjoying an excellent reputation. 
Hotel de France, flwntbig the Park^ most com- 
fortable and mneh commended. 
Hotel de Saze^ exceedingly good in every respect 

& doseto therailway; landlord, Mr. Kervant. 
Hotel de Belle Vue, one of the most highly 

recommended hotels on the Continent; 

landlord, "Mr, Ptoft. 
Hotel Windsor, a comfortable and reasonable 

family hotel. 
Hotel de Hollander a very dean, wdl-oonducted, 

quiet, good house. 
Grande Bretagne, well situated, in the Place 

Soyale^ and diarges moderate. 
* Bailty's Commercial Tavern, Rue du Ifnsee. 

lie and Porter on draft. Board and lodging 

on reasonable terms. 
Horton's Prinoe of Wales English Tavern & Chop 

House, Sue Vflla Hermosa, Montague de la 

Cour— everything exceedingly dean & good. 

The landlord most obliging and attentive. 
Boarding and Lodging House— Mrs. Haydon'f, 

27, Qnartier Louise, is most respectable, and 

deserves our best reoommendations. 
We have now to introduce the fkfr dty 
of Brussels to our readen^ a dty which has 
formed tiie sul^ect of the warmest eulogiuma 
fir<nn three 9i our greatest modem poets- 
Byron, Scott, and Southey— «nd no person 
who vislU it in the present day will lay that 
thehr praises 'are exaggerated or undeserved. 
No traveller, visiting the lower town, observes 
Us noble streets and mandons, its magnificent 
arcade known as the Passage de St. Hnberl^ 
inhabited by the meroantile part of the coos* 
munity, and then proceeda to the upper or 
*'west end" of tiw dtyt oommendng wtth the 
Plaee Boyale,emMQUh«l\ki ^% ^bebbk^ ^l^ 
JaoViSA sot 0«aABn\«*,^irta^V*ttw*.^wto«« 



82 



BRUSSELS— THE PARK— KOTAL' SQUARE. 



[Boate7 



stMMDf out its setting ivories upon it, and illu- 
minates tlie vivid colours with magical effect 
and the statue of the crusader, Godfrey of Bouil- 
lon, thence to the Place des Palais, and there ad- 
mires the pleasing coup-doeil formed by the King's 
Palace, the Palace of the Prince of Orange, the 
beautiful and umbrageous Park, the magnificent 
Hue Royale, the noble buildings in the Rue de la 
Loi, the splendid view from the Place du Congr^ 
but what will exclaim that the beauty of the tout 
ensemble, the neatness and cleanliness of this 
part of Brussels, render it one of the most charm- 
ing cities in Europe, and impart a beoomhig 
diguity to the scat of the Belgian government. 

Its history is replete with a succession of event- 
ful scenes and tragical dramas of the most 
harrowing description. At one period depopu- 
lated by the plague, produced by thirteen months 
of consecutive rain; at another epoch its citizens 
decimated by the atrocious cruelties of the Duke 
of Alva, the Spanish Regent; by civil wars and 
revolutions; religious persecutions of the Pro- 
testants by the Catholics, of the Hebrews by the 
Christians. 

Otjeets of attraction to he seen in Brmselt^— 
The Town Hall, and Grand Place. The 
Cathedral and other churches. The Museum. 
The King's Palace. The Palace of the 
Due d' Aremberg. The Houses of Parlia- 
ment. The Botanical Gardens, Porte de 
Schaerbock, and the Zoological Gardens at 
Ixelles. 

The dtf of Brussels, which is called in French 
BruxeUes, and in Flemish Brussel, is in the form 
of a pear, and is built partiy on an acclivity, once 
covered by the forest of Soignie, and partiy on a 
plain, which being intersected by various branches 
of the river Senne, was a perfect marsh, till a 
long course of draining and hard cultivation 
changed it into rich meadow land. Its name is 
supposed to be derived from Brug-Senne, (bridge 
over the Sonne), corrupted into Brussels and 
BruxeUes. The climate of Brussels is temperate, 
and, although extremely variable, and somewhat 
moist, it is healtiiy, particularly in the higher 
part of the town. It has been computed, that 
during the year, upon an average, there are 
seventeen days of snowy weather, eleven of hail, 
end one himdred and forty-nine of rain. The 
aoannftekores of Brussels oonsist principally of 
^MT Ar-Amed laoe; printed o§Uodm; caniMSm, 



remarkable for their elegance, comfort light 
appearance, and solidity; beer of ge n e r ally e^ 
teemed quality; printing and hanging papers; 
lithographic and printing establishments, espeoi^ 
ally of books; type foundritt^ sugar refineries; hone 
hair and woollen stufb; brass and iron fonndries; 
painted Qorcelains; ftuniture; soaps; gold and 
silver lace, and chemical productions. The me- 
thod of counting money is in francs and centimes^ 
the coin adopted by government. Having adopted 
all the French decimal measures, the metre is 
used, in BruxeUes, for long measure, the kUo- 
gramme for weight, and the litre for liquid 
measure. 

The Royal Square^ or La Place Royale, is one 
of the beautiful executions of the last century, by 
the architect Guyman. It presents a monumental 
aspect, and is remarkable for the grand regularity 
of its appearance. It Is, however, to be deq[>ly 
regretted that the triumphal entries had to be 
removed, owing to the necessity of making way 
for the establishment of convenient communica- 
tions between the different parts of the city. An 
equestrian statue of Godfrey de BotxUlon, the 
celebrated chief of the Fh^ Crusade, adorns the 
square. It is a fine work of art in bronce, l^ 
M. E. Simonis. 

The Park is an enclosure hi the higher town, 
forming a square divided into avenues, lined with 
trees, and intersected by beautiful walks orna- 
mented with statues. It is a favourite promenade 
with the people of Brussels, and has three prin- 
cipal walks, planted with lofty trees. On Sundays, 
during summer, when the weather is fine, a miU- 
tary band plays from a i>aviUion near the green 
basin, or round garden, for the amusement o& 
the promenaders of all classes, who move hither 
in crowds on these occasions. No time can be 
better selected by a stranger, for forming an idea 
of the luxury and fisshion of Brussels than this, 
when a concert Is given in the open air. This 
Park was the principal scene of action in the 
revolution of 1830; the marks of the buUets are 
yet to be seen In the trees. A fine basin in the 
centre, plentiftilly stocked with gold and sQver 
fish, adds to the attractions of this deUghtfhl 
spot. On each side the principal walk, two val- 
leys offer an agreeable retreat from the heat of 
the sun. In the valley to the right, a square 
basin of blue marble is deposited, which 
the toQioirtns \nwaEictt\ou*.— 




hUlid«\ft«iUi»t. 



Boots 7 J 

J^fetavM AkaDohHi^ Our MUgaxa, MnaoovkB 
IDdj^ inddens nuurgM hi^ni^ lintfo^ aqiuan illiniy 
nobOitttvit; libato vino, ho» port meridieiD, 
tatik die 16 ApriUs anni 1717." 

Which done into English, signifies fhat on 
jadi a day Peter the Great of Bnasia, being in- 
toxicsted, fell into tills ftmntain. 

The following are the prino^ buildings snr- 
foonding the Fark i-^ 

The Kin^s Pala6e.^-Jk large and yast ediflci^ 
(presenting in its exterior ndther attracti<m ner 
tteantj. Its interior Is magnificently ftumished. 
Under the French, this Palace was the Hdtel de 
la Prefecture. N^pcdeon and the Empress Jose- 
I^iine lodged in it in 1807, and Maria Louise 
hi 1811. It has, however, several suiter of very 
BoUe rooms. 

The CtaUary of-^Pakaing* collected hj King 
Leopold, is weD worth visiting ; moreover, there 
•re several paintings of peculiar interest to En- 
glish visitors* viz. : a portrait of the lamented 
princess Charlotte, a beautiftil one of the late 
Queen of the Belgians, several others of great 
merit and interest; for instance, those of the 
King of the French and his Queen, Marie 
Amelie; and last, though not least, two ftiU 
length portraits of Queen Victoria and Prince 
Albert, by Winterhalter. 

The PcHace of the Prinee cf Orange is dose to 
the Ktaig's Palace. The late King of Holland 
erected it at the cost of the dty, and presented 
it to that Princ<>, but Is now impropriated to 
the use of the Duke de Braoant. 

The Chamlben of BepresenUxUvet, or Palais de 
la Nation, are situated in the Rue de la Loi. 
Th^ were buili by the Empress Maria Theresa. 
There Is nothing very remarkable connected with 
them, nor is there any object of attraction within 
them to particularize^ except three pictures, one 
by Wappers, the Belgium Troisjour, the Battie of 
Woeringen, by De Keyzer, and the Battie of 
Ifaterioo.— It is entered from bdiind^he Rue 
de rOrangerie. Strangers are admitted during 
tfks debates. 

The Mtueum, or Le Palais da Beauw arts e* 
de Vlndutbrie is destined, as its name Jndicates, 
m •repository for the works of art and of 
national industry. 

The first ottfectof attraottoninit is the Pietnre 
GaDflryfWfaidi contains in its collectfon several 
fHBIllMU^FViOOilailfOfllMglMtlDMrtflCIQtthe 



88 



nendsh sdiool. Ife first dbrcet attention to the 
works of the fordgn sdiool% of whidi we gtvea 
brief notice. If e make, however, one exception 
to tide rule, in directing attention to an admiraMy 
execBted littie portrait of the Chancdlor, Sir 
Thomas More^ by Holbdn. Pasdng flrom this 
gem of the German sdiool to the Italian eol- 
leetion. we notice two pataitings attributed to 
Tittan^ We next notice the Nooeses de Cans, bj 
Paul Veronese, and another qilendid work by the 
same master, St. Catherine adoring Jesos. Tht 
Holy FSmily will be found in this collection. 
The Veniee CoOeeHon oontahw Christ caffimr 
I St. Peter, a Tonng Msn pteced under the pro. 
^ teetion of the Virgin 1^ his patrons, Sahrts 
Nicholas, Louis. Francis, and Joseph* this is aa 
excellent pointing, combining, with a hap^ ar- 
rangement, a brilliant execution. The FUghl 
into Egypt and Adam and Eve^by Gnido^ •>• 
; worth notice. The Italian sdiool has, also^ a 
j Job visited by his Friends, and a St. SebastliH 
the latter by ProcacdnL 

The French Behoof contains the Savkwv 
giving His Benediction, by Lesneun, a small Bt. 
Charles Borromeo, by Vonet, and a Calnuy, 
by Courtois, &c. The other principal paint- 
faigs to be seen in the gallery, are seven attriboted 
to Rubens. Among them are the four following^ 
whidi bear traces of that great master's stg^ 
the Bfartyrdom of St. Uvien, the Adoration of 
the Magi, Christ fialling under the Crosa^ and a 
Christ in the Tomb. St. Peter fishing, bj D» 
Crayer, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral, by Necft. 
Very many valuable paintings^ pnrdiased at liM 
King of Holland's sale^ have been added to the 
collection, which, in all amounts to SOOpelBfttaig^ 
The Collections of Painting and Natural BMory 
are open to the public on Sundays, Wednesdagnii 
and Thursdiqr>» but strangers can gain admit- 
tance on other occarions by eadifUting their pav- 
port. The works of Wappers^ Gallal^ D» 
Keyzer, and Verboekhoven are wdl worA 
attention, as specimens of the modem Belgfaa 
school of pahitings. They are to be seen in 
the ante-room. 

The BwgvmdUm lAbrary, contalnfaig ten tiioa- 
sand manuscripts^ is well worth an inqiectlosu 
j The collection Is an exceedingly valuable one^ 
I collected by the Dukes of Bux^gosA^- '\«>BSk'«flSB»-' 



84 



BBTrSSBr/h-BdTBL DB TILIA-HfiTT. GUDULK*8. 



!Roufce7 



-ofHaiBMdtitaePMlterofLoutodeMtletandthe I 
ISiMttl of Mfttthlat Commu^ King of Hungary, 
■iHnild Be leen. The Ubnxy oonteins 200,000 
Tolumea, and has been formed by the union of the 
HbrariM of the Stote whh that of Van Hultem, 
pfurdiased at a cost of 316,000f. It is open each 
day, Sunday excepted, from nine to three. The 
reading room is exceedingly comfortable. 

In the same building is the Museum of Natural 
History. In it are a series of the rolcanic 
IHToducts of Vesuvius, and of the fossils of Maes- 
trecht. Its zoological and mineralogical depart- 
ment contain some interesting specimens. In 
this building lectures are given on the various 
branches of science, at the expense of government, 
and to them all are admitted free. 

H6tel de ViUe, in the Grand Place, is unques- 
tionably one of the most beautiful monuments of 
Brussels, and one of the most magnificent of Bel- 
gium's municipal palaces. It stands on an elevated 
spot l^ itself, and commands the admiration of 
all visitors. The structure was commenced in 
1401, and finished in 1111, after the plan of an 
architect called Van Buysbroeck, and is buUt in 
the Lombardo Gothic style. The chief object of 
wonder of the building is the lofty tower, of 
Gothic open work, three himdred and aixly-four 
feet high, surmounting the principal fagade. It 
formerly stood at the end of the building. The 
tower is crowned by a gilt copper figure of St. 
Michael, which serves as a weathercock, and is 
seventeen feet high. On the tapestries preserved 
in the interior, is represented the Abdication of 
Charles V., which took place in 1656, in the old 
Ducal Palace, burned down in 1733. This tower, 
so remarkable for its antiquity and architectural 
beauty, has lately undergone repair, and is now 
restored to its original perfection. The canings 
and omamQptal work were effaced during the 
French revolution. Critics, however, find fault 
with the arphitect for not placing the tower in 
the centre of the edifice. 

The Place is one of the most singular in 
Europe, being a regulfur parallelogram, the four 
■ides of which, though ornamented -mth buildings 
dissimilar in shape, and in the form of the archi- 
teoture, is nevertheless consistent with the general 
plan. This square is larger than it appears to 
be. Opposite the Hdtel de Ville which is si- 
taatad in this sguare^ we see the Maison du Roi, 
Aui» la 7^/4 M/ter m plaa by KeldermuM, 



arefaiteet to Chnies V. laihlsnonsetheCounl^ 
Egmunt andHomi passed the night previous to 
fteir execution, wbieh took place in the Graad 
Square, and was ^ritnessed, from a vdndow, by 
Alva, by whose directions they were beheaded. 
Several of the buildings formerly bel(mged to 
corporate trades or companies who seemed to 
have endeavoured to surpass each other in the 
expenses they incurred for embellishments^ and 
embodying the various forms of architecture in- 
troduced into the Low Countries, viz., a c<med- 
pound ot the Gothic and the Morisco, equally as 
astonishing for its lightness and its boldness, as 
for the beauty of its forms, and the harmony of 
its proportions, introduced by the Spanish, whe 
copied it from the Moors. 

The CoUegiaU Church of St. Oudule Is dedW 
eated to St. Michael, patron of the city, and St. 
Gudule, niece of Pepin of Landen. The grand ftroot 
in the Bue de la Cathedrale, surmounted by two 
lofty towers, whidi would have been carried con- 
siderably higher had there been sufiident funds. 
The original plan was to have thrown an arch 
over them at their present elevation, and to have 
reared upon it a third steeple. In the ninth age 
the site of this magnificent church was occupied 
by a mill. Lambert, Count of Louvain, erected 
there a temple, which was finished in 1047, at 
which period the body of St. Gudule, which hlul 
been preserved in the ch:urch of Saint Gery, waa 
translated thither. A chapter of twelve canons 
was founded, which was afterwards carried to 
twenty-two. Henry, Duke of Brabant, demolished, 
this temple in 1226; the present structure was 
commenced immediately Afterwards, but was not 
finished till 1275. The workmen employed upon 
it earned daily a small coin called a brass pfenning; 
tkis pittance seems, however, to have been com- 
mensurate with the price of provisions at that 
period. The following dates mark some of the 
principal events connected with the church of 
St. Gudule : a whole volume would be insufficient 
to name them all : — 
1435. The first meeting of the chapter order of 

the Golden Fleece, by Philip the Good. 
1481. A synod of the diocese was held here, 

whose acts are preserved in manuscript. 
1616. Orand meeting of the eighteenth chapter 

of the order of the Golden Fleece, by 

Charles V. 
U Vk ot Qo\Jb\,c •xOQi\AC^>axQt Vcl >Q(a twra ^ ^ 




Milionitii Rol. 



SonteTl 



or TBB HOLT BACRAMBn, 



35 



■ndisdiTidediiitotlireeaklM. Thegmd 
is approached by a ffiglit of thirtj-dx 
■1^8. It was f ormerlty omamented with paint- 
iog» in water.ooloun, ezacoted on the waUs, 
towards the dose of the art, and it is to be 
regretted that th^ tiare been oorered over with 
plaster. Tlie side aisles are separated from tlie 
men by pillars that support the roof, which is 
very lofty. Against each pillar rests a statue^ ten 
I be tfr o m the floor. Thoee rqiresenting St. Peter 
and St. Fliil^ are by Van Milder; those of St. 
Tteri, St. Bartholomew, and St. Mstthiws^ are by 
Jerome Dogemay, and are rery superior to the 
otiiers; thestatneof St. John, St. James minor, and 
8t ICatthew, are the work of Tobias Faidherfoe; 
and thoeeof St. James the nu^or, and St. Simon, 
of Luke Faidherfoe; the scolptor of that of St. 
Andrew is unknown. The polpl^ raised in the 
middle of the nare, is Tery remarkable. It was 
executed by Henry Verbmggen, of Antwerp^ for 
the Jesaitsof I<oinrain,inl699. After thefr sop- 
p res si on, it was presented by Maria Theresa to 
tiie dimtdi of St. Gndnle, where it was placed in 
1776. Tliisflne^eceofscii^itaremaybesaidto 
be an ^tome of Milton's snbUme poem. Adam 
•nd Eve are r q«eeen te d, tiie slse of Ufe, as sos. 
tafaifaig tiM ^be; an Angel driresthem from 
Fnradise, and Death pnrsoes them; the figure 
•nd cou n t e nance of Adam are admirablty e^ires- 
ilTe. The cavity of tlie globe forms the pulpit, 
wfaidi rests on the tree of good and evil, laden 
vifltfttiit^ and decorated with ^ipropriate am- 
anab; by the ride of Adam are an eagle and an 
uiliit.li, and by that of Eve^ a peaoodi^ a parroly 
and an ape. At the top of tiie tree is a canopy, 
Mqpported by two angd^ and by a female esthi- 
Mting the symbol of TmUi. Beneath is the 
Virgin holding the bifimt Jesus and a crosi^ 
witti wfaiditiieybodi crush tiie head of a serpent^ 
whose body writties about the tree. 

Before proceeding frrther, let us turn round 
to admire the dioir latdy erected, in sndi a 
mnmnnttr as to throw opcu the magnificent repre- 
■entatfam of the Last Judgment, painted on, or 
rather in, glassy by Floris, usually called Frank 
FkM. This is superior to the paintings on g^ass 
executed by Van Ack, whidi are seen over the 
two doors fai front of the dioir. The organ, 
wlddi is one of the finest in the country, was 
baDtbyM.I>evolder,ofGhent. Intiieairieaare 
pictures of InlMor merits refmMBliiig 



titehiBtotyof titehost, idddi, according to tr». 
ditlon, was in the year 1370 carried oO; and 
stabbed by some Jews, in thdr synagogue, rito- 
ated in the Bne de Salaaar, where, as we have 
already said, a chapd has since been erected. 
Five Jews vrere burnt alive on the occadoa, on 
the spot whidi is now occupied by the hotel of 
the Duke of Aremberg. The mutilated host* 
fitim ^dudi blood is said to have issued, haHng 
been collected together, was restored with great 
solemnity, and from this period is dated tiie 
festival of the St. Sacrement des "^nrmM^ wfaidi 
is cddnrated every year, on the first Sunday after 
tiiel5thof Juty. Itisth6n,too,thatthekermeaBa 
of Brusseta is hdd. On the same occarion are 
eadiiUted, during several days^ in the diurcb of 
St. Gudide, some large and ^endid pieces of 
tapestry, on wldch are storied the interesting 
traditions Just mentioned. 

Tlie Chapel called that of the Bofy Saarammt 
of MiraeUt, at the left of the grand dioir, was 
rebuilt in 1539. It is of large dimenrions, haHng 
four windows^ beantiftilty painted by Boger,ef 
Brussds. The old tabeniade, which was of mas- 
sive silver, was removed fai 1792 The new one 
contains a Bemonstrance in the ah^M of a sun 
in solid gold, enridied by precious stones; inttJs 
are dqraeited several of the miraculous boats. 
The design of the altar-piece is grand, but it Is 
overdiarged with ornament. Bubens fknn&died 
the plan of Hm altar-idece^ whidi was formei^y 
raised in the centre of the dmrdi. On the right 
side of the altar of the Holly Sacrament is placed 
fbe monumental stone whidi covers the tomb of 
the Archduke Albert, whose remains were de- 
podted there In 1621, invested with a friar^ 
habit, and of the Inftnta Isabdla, who was buried 
there in 1633, in the costume of a nun of the 
order (rf St. Clare. Several other members of the 
same ilhutrious house were afterwards entombed 
in this vault, but were taken up and translated to 
Tienna in 1749. The same tomb also endoees 
the remains of Frinoe Charles of Lorraine, iriio 
died at Tervueren in 1780, very deeply regretted 
by the dtlsens of Brussds. Between this diapel 
and that of St. Mary »rMg«i«i««3 wliidi is very 
lofty, is seen a piece of wood fixed to the wall; 
ttJa is a firaction of tiie beam in which the 
miraeolons host was concealed during the 
toouUea wfakb iMted flram lonft Vk VJ&. 

Over tkM dooK <A iaa» 



S6 



BKUSSSLfl — CHAPEL OF THE VIROOr— OHUBCH OF ST. XI€X>LA8 



Bonte 7 



(oDgth figure of the Virgin, said to be the pro- 
daction of FrandsDaqneenoy ; Arhoever nuty have 
been the artiit, it is oonaidered a little dief- 
i'cBUTre, the Infant in particular being finished 
«rith exquisite beau^. 

The Chapel of the Virgin, styled No*re Dame 
was constructed in 1653, at a cost of 66,823 florins 
raised from the roluntary subscriptions of the 
citizens. The four windows are pataited by 
Delabaer, of Antwerp. They represent the prin- 
dpal events connected with the life of the Virgin, 
and exhibits portraits of the Emperors Ferdinand 
and Leopold I., of the Archduke Albert with the 
Infanta T^i^ ^^iia^ and the Archduke Leopold. 
The altar, which is of bhick and white marble, 
was designed by VerspaeL The Virgin over it 
was executed by Arnold Quellin. 

The high altar of the church is modern, dating 
only£:om 1743; a widow Laving bequeathed a 
sum of 18,000 florins for the purpose of erecting 
one in white marble, this was raised on the plan 
of the architect Douk^ns. It is of the composite 
order, and owes the sculptured ornaments to the 
chisel of the elder Deroy. At the sides of the 
sanctuary are two statues of white marble^ by 
Delvaux, one of St. Martin and the other of 
St. Benedict. They were brought firom the 
Abbey of Affhghem, and were at one time des- 
tined for the Museum at Paris. The tabernacle 
is very rich ; by an Ingenious piece of mechanism 
the Remonstrance is lowered from it into the 
hands of the offlcfating priest. Above the altar 
is a square table, the top of which bears the arms 
of the Duke of Brabant. On the left is a superb 
mausoleum of black marble, named the tomb of 
the Dukes of Brabant, upon which reposes a 
brass gilt lion resting on a cushion. This figure, 
which weighs six thousand pounds, was cast in 
1610, by Jerome de Montfort. The Archduke 
Albert erected this mausoleum to the memory of 
John II, Duke of Brabant, who died in 1312, of 
his wife Margaret, daughter of Edward, King of 
England, deceased in 1318, and of Phil^ I, who 
died in 1430. Some writers afibm that this 
monumont encloses the ashes of Philip the Good 
but this is doubted. Opposite to this mausoleum 
and on tne other side of the chob:, is the sepul- 
chral monument of Archduke Ernest, who died 
at Brussels 1595. This prince, clothed in mail, 
reposes on a cushion. His sword, armour, spurs, 
mtid iiores &r& new blm, and there appears his 



I motto, ** Soli Deo Gloria.** The diofar Is lighted 
I by five windows, painted by Ahra^hmw vaa 
Diepenbach, a pupil of Rubens. The loes of thki 
style of art has long been regretted, but it is be- 
lieved that an artist of Toumay, named Martd- 
dqne, has succeeded in restoring it. Two village 
scenes, each on one piece efglasa, wert ezhfibited 
by him a diort time ago. 

The Square qfiheMint, ox Place de la Wmukt 
notwithstanding Its uregularily, la one of tlM 
handsomest in the dty ; ii possesses wom9 elagabt 
coffee-houses, the principal of which are the SdaM 
and the Milles colonnes, vqual to any of the Wnd 
in Paris. It takes its name from the Mint, whkA 
facea the portico of ihe Royal Theatre. Thii 
square is the resort of fiBshionaUe loungen^ specu- 
lators in the funds, chroniclers of false news, and 
of the dilettante who swarm about the theatre. 

The Chwrchof St. NiodUuis of hrregvlar but 
handsome architecture. Itwaa considered tiis 
finestin Brussels. This church possesses a rich 
collection of paintings. The high altar Is adorned 
by a production of Van Helmon, repreeenting 
Jesus Christ restoring health to the diild of 
Canea. The chapel of the Vfargin has two good 
pataitings by Janssen% one representing Jodnia < 
annihilating the Amalechites; the other, David ' 
penitent; two by Van Orler, St. Peter releasad 
by an Angel and St. Bodi curing the infected^ j 
are appreciated by connoisseurs. There is a | 
pictureplacedagainstoneof thepQIam wMdi is ' 
much admired, and Is supposed to be by Robens* 
it is a half length figure of the Virgin regarding 
with tenderness her sleeping Infant. It Is diiB- 
cuH to conceive any thing more tonching, or men 
duurmingly executed, the drawing bdng ex- 
tremely correct, and the fiesh naturally coloured. 
This picture was presented to the ohurdi by * 
curate of the parish, who died some years sfaMt. 
Near the altar of the dead, is the chef-d'cenvre of 
a modem painter, d'Herreyns, of Malines; tiis 
suliject is the Last Supper. 

We next oome upon the Sablon, so named 
from its having been covered with sand 
of being paved, in order to facilitate the 
of troops, to which this square was approforiated. 
It is the largest in the town, and, iJthimg'* 
irregular, is very handsome. In the centre of it 
is a magnificent foimtain of white marble, niildi 
Lord Bruce, Earl of Aylesbury, who had Itfed 
in Brunels forty yearsi ordered in his wfll teta 




Ka«r*II*iiwD«l>< 



Boate 7] PALAIS d'abemberg— botanical oabden—- thbatrb botau 



S7 



0r«oted M a grat^itl memorial to the inhabitants 
€f this dty, of the kindness he liad ezperieneed 
from them, and the happiness he had ever enjoyed 
tiiere. Tliis admirable piece is by Berge. It 
represents Minerva seated, and holding the por- 
traits of Maria Theresa and Francia I ; on the 
right is Fame, on the left the Scheldt ; a genius 
holds the seigis of Minerva. Lord Bruce occupied 
a house dose to the Sablon church. His nephew 
raised this group of white Genoa marble, after a 
model ftimished by the Count Callemberg; 
beneath are the arms of Lord Bruce, well sculp- 
tured. The railing round the monument is wire. 
We now proceed up the Petit Sablon, which 
formerly served as a cemetery, bleaching-ground, 
and stabling for the brotherhood of the Holy 
Ghost, of which we jtist now spoke. This place 
presents nothing of interest except the Hdtel 
d*Areinberg, where Rousseau long resided on a 
pension of fifteen hundred francs> with admission 
to the Duke's table. 

Palaia <fJrembergy 17, Flaoe dn Petit Sablon. 
In the palace^ which is richly and magnificently 
adorned, is a very select gallery of paintings, by 
the Dutch and Flemish schooL The chief ones 
are 1^ de Hooghe, Rembrandt, and Jean Steen, 
together with some Etruscan antiquities^ and old 
furniture. A head of the famous Tjaoeoon may 
be seen in the library, and the palace can be seen 
ki the absence of the funily. 

The worthy descendant of the Prince has 
embdlished his hotel, abready admired for its 
■roihitectnre and vastness, with the productions 
of art. It possesses a number of vases and varie- 
ties from Heroulaneum and Pompeii, and the 
original head of the Laocoon. A gallery of 
paintings by the first masters, increased of late by 
that of the late Prince d'Aremberg, and a mag- 
idfloent garden, render the mansion constructed 
on the dte of that of the unfortunate Count of 
Egmond, one of the objects most worthy of 
admiration in this dty. 

The JUeS VwU is nearly a mile and a half 
In length. It is the chief summer resort of 
the gay and fashionable residoits of the elegant 
metropolis, who here exhibit thehr handsome 
eqn^mges or mingle among the promenaders 
of this fkvourite q>ot. Being {Wanted with 
four rows of old and lof^ linden treee^ having 
ftvery elegant iron gate at its entrance^ and 



, hy the dde of it, it was once, particnlarlj on 
Sundays in summer, the rendeivous of tha 
wealthy and fkshionable of the Boulevards. The 
Botanic Garden is 600 metres l<mg and 160 
broad. The edifice whidi crowns its gentle 
slope presents a front of about 140 feet, its centre 
being occupied by a rotunda, encircled b7 a 
colonnade, and surmounted by a dome. The wfngs 
which, together with the rotunda, are of glais/orm 
on each side a gallery, terminated by a squara 
building resembling the portico of a temple. 

From the green-houses we descend by a grada- 
tion of small terraces, adorned with fountains^ to 
the garden,which is circular, and eontahis properlj 
classed and immense varieties of plants, ofllsring 
a vast study to the naturalist. 

The Botcmical Oatrden of Brussels is declared 
by travellers to surpass in beauty, magnifioenosb 
and richness, every other in Europe^ except thaft 
of Paris— the onip-d'astl is admirable, but to be 
seen in perfection this fairy place and garden 
should be visited when illuminated, as it annually 
is, during the fetes of September, eommemo- 
rative of the revolution. This institution belongs 
to the Horticultural Society, who give annual 
exhibitions of flowers to that institution. 

The PriBon des Pelits Cotme* stands on tho 
site of the Hotel de Cuylembourg, dose to tho 
Place Petit Sablon. In the rdgn of Philip tho 
II. the Protestant Confederates met ht this hotel, 
and in it prepared, in 1666, the petition called the 
" Request." On its being presented to Margaret 
of Parma, the vice Queen, it is recorded that one 
of the courtiers whispered to her, ** Not to be an- 
noyed by such a parcel of beggars.** The Con- 
federates looked upon the epithet as a titie of 
honour rather than of reproach, under the f&t' 
cumstances in which it was applied, adopted it as 
their nofm de guerre^ and appeared on the baloony 
that evening after supper with wallets on fheir 
backs and porringers in their handsi, and drank 
success to the Geux t This littie event tended to 
fim the flame which soon kindled into revolutfos. 
The Duke of Alva had the building where the 
Confederate meetings were hdd levelled to the 
ground. 

The Theaiirt JBoyoZisaveryfine and interesting 
building, erected in 1817, after plans by M. Do- 
mesme, ata costoC IvUM^^^RRit. rC^^tiQasst'QBsatem 
azo tSieTYi«ate^ft!a'Raa^'tViato»^»^WEw«flB6*^i 



pammtig an MgreeabJe ooolaem from tlie oanal i and Tbette^ dn.N«».^«<('SSto« 



n«40B DM 1CABTTB8— POBIB DS HAZr-KDO'S Pili4GB& pbmt$7 



Tte Maoe da Mairtyrt to «iie of fh« moafc 
ktsatJftd §qaarm in BnmOa, notwiUistaiidiiig 
tlMt the ftreetf MUMimdiiig it are tmintoraeting, 
wlUiont ^ypeezeaoe, and badly arranged. In 
Ihto square to erected • ipitondid monument 
lo the memory of the three hundred *<braTea 
Bfllgea,** killed in the Berohition, 1830. This 
monument to placed in the middle of the equare 
and consists of • pedestal haTing on each of 
lla four oom«n kneding geninseis and sur- 
mounted by a statne of Lfterty. A sort oi sub- 
terranean gallery runs around it, in which the 
siain were interred, and the name d eodi Yicttm 
to inscribed around on dabs of blade and white 
narble. Tlie statue represents Belgium inscrib. 
ing on a slab the dates of the memorable events 
of September. At the foot of the statue to 
•onched a lion. The monument to surrounded 
by iron railings. Thto monument to one of the 
most beautiM works of the celebrated sculptor, 

The PorU de Hal to a large gateway, after the 
Gothic style, erected in 1381 . It served as a bas- 
tfle for Alva during hto sanguinary persecution 
of the Protestants. It now serves as a kind of 
museum, and contalos a very interesting collec- 
tion, among which to the cradle of Charles V., 
and a font from Tirlemont, dated 1149, together 
with many other very interesting antiquities. 

The Boyoi Square, or La Place Boyale, to one 
9t the beautifiil executions of the last century, by 
the architect Guymal. It presents a monumental 
aapect, and to remarkable for the grand regularity 
of its appearance. It is, however, to be deeply 
regretted that the triumphal entries had to be 
removed, owing to the necessity of making way 
f<Mr the establishment of convenloit communica- 
tions between the different parts of the dty. An 
equestrian statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, the 
aelebrated diief of tlie First Crusade, adorns the 
square. It to an executi<«& in bronze, by M. E. 
Bimmons. 

September, 1848, will be memorable hi the hto- 
tory of thto ftoe old <Atj as the days on which the 
FiBST PsAOB CoNGRKss, constottng of 150 gentle- 
men firom England, Scotland, and Wales, together 
with delegates firom various parts oi tbo Con- 
ttnent, assembled therein, to enundate thdr 
prind p l e s for the promoti<«& of universal peace 
•«Ar tlie settlement of international differences 
Ar srbltntha-maad to caM the atteatloB oC 



gOTcmmento to the advaatagee of a OMMwe if 
general disarmament, as oondadvetoafHandl^ 
understanding anumg the aatioaB, and tendlBt 
directly to prepare tbe way for the fennatton ef 
a gen^ Congress of Nations. Thn prnrneih^ti 
of the convention, firom thdr novelty, ana iit 
influential and talented diaracter of the nsncniWni! 
rei^resentatives, exdted the greatest intereet. TlM 
reception given to the delegates, both at Ostend 
and Brussels, was extremely gratifying ; andirt 
can but hope that thto'exposition of the pr lud pi M 
of peaoebeflore tlM worldmay be thehemldef Ibit 
day *< when nation diall not lift up sword agaiait 
nation, ndther diall they learn war any nMure.* 

A valet-de-plaoe may be hired tot 6fr . per day. 
The Po«t-o.^lce,at the top of Rue de la Montagne^ 
to open from 6 till 9. Postage stamps are in use 
throughout the kingdom : single rate for eoe> 
thtod of an os. 10 centimes for 30 kil . (about 18} 
miles) ; 20 centimes for all dlstanoee above ; pre> 
payment optionaL Between Bdgium and al 
France the stamp to 40 centimes ; between Bel> 
gium and all England 60 centimes, or 6d. Letten 
posted here at 5 p.m. will h€ distr&nted in Lm- 
don at 10 the next morning. Letten put in 
before 5 p.m. will be delivered in Paris the next 
day, and before 7 a.m., the same evening in 
Paris. The following to a Itot of the offices ton 
obtaining passports :— France, 146, Bue Roysto 
Neuve ; Austria, 9, Rue Belliard, Quartier Leo- 
pold; BngUsh Embasey, Rue Bdliard, Qnartlff 
Leopold ; Prusston Embasf^ in Bruaeels, 87, Bee 
des Petit Cannes. 

The King*9 Palaeet may be viewed during hto 
Mi^esty's absence. The Museum to open every 
Sunday, Monday, and Thursday, firom 10 tfll 9^ 
and every other day to strangers on producing 
their passports. The Duke d' Arenberg's PataM 
daily, by implying to the porter, and producing n 
passport. The Town Hall daily, firom 10 tSlfii 
(gratis). The two Houses of Parliament dafly^ 
firom 10 till 3. The Botanical Gw'den (grati^ 
every Tuesdi^, Thursday, and Saturday, firom 
9 till 5. The Passport OfBce to at the Hdtd de 
VUle, and to opoi daily from 10 for the first dto- 
patdi, and before 6 46 p.m. for the second, efn 
France. Letters, &c., forwarded by the fbraier 
are delivered in London by 9 in the morning and 
by the latter by 1 p.m. the day after theto kavinf 
Brussds. Theatre Royal de la Mffmnale, nPir- 




^^"■JloniuowitliithBPlMeilwMBrUM ct.mdaot'toa *.-wei*™*- 



Tlw*BFMMli Hanld" Eii(1!iih Hawiwtr, 
ihi an); EB^Ulmniil Is Bd^nn, U pabUdwd 
•TCtr M«Bd^, Utba offloav !,&» da Is FnUta. 
Tan of nibwilptloa t ftuv va qiurtv. 
■Bfla pv«* m bt kad at tbBoS«,atW 
mall HIM aub, or ctf Ur. Fnmant'i LOnUT, 
If odMciw d* k Ganr. 

nujr wnHk, au it !• 001- 

« pudDg tli»B^ Balflsa, 

M Hfoani Hd nM diilDK tk< BabbUli In Bnii. 

' Mb, u It aDOi ths idTiHitic* at pnaimtng 

wnnl PntHtHit p1«CN of mnl^. 

dnirsh otKngliiid Irrriga i~-Oll lullUn ■* 
tt« Cbv<lK<iTid,BwdB Unite, at nln* itA^ 
■adbilf-put trnp-m. bj til* Bn.M. J. Blukar, 
B.A.; In tlia e^fO, on tb* Bonlmrd d* I'Ob- 
■emtolre,ataqiiiTt«rto nHudhilf-paittlina 
In tlw tftcnuon. bj tha Bar. T. Dmr, 11^4 
ulatUUETUialloal Cbapal, BiMBimwd,bT 
tba Bar. O. 7. KMjh, at half-put nlna In Uu 



OatBd, Ohant, &»;«, Lllla, UhIIdb, LosTsbH, 
Llaca, Varrlan, AliJa-Chipalla, and CologD^ 
li onUda tba Poita d* Oologna. Uat of ttaa 



Bngnih F(ddaBt In BniMab, wiJiraoa 



ibbU^tntj 



pwHa tli« Par*. 

Zlnf LeopoliU Jb. Alax lUTtng 

nUiad In BcoMb dnHoc ih* Un IS jaui, ba* 

■cqslnd Iba omadenoa of tha EDgUth and BA. 

(ian madloal imrMilaii, and hli appoinimnt u 

bonatarr dantlit to tha K]n( 

pnnt Iba higb Mtlmatbin In 

anbtldhil 



EnoLisa BinKSRS.— Tha ofd SngBih Bank 
and Eidiange DlBsa are now at No, a,Biw 
Ko^Blfl. UflHn. Salur and BIpvood ooiraBpimd 
wlih ibt Umon Duifa of London : tha Urna of 
Uatta. Chu. Hoai 
and Co,, London ; 
Usun. Duncnn and Co., Mow Toife. 

Tba GnuKlg Boarding Sdiool far Tomif 
LidlH, of Madune Van SidiapdMl, i:^ Hna dn 
Mu^ (Mer-Bmini, ii tstt Ugblf ipokan of; 
Mr. Eajbct^ tbr jonnf f< 
Chulota,li Of 



21, Bue d» L. 



w of Iba bart 



.ded. 



of BI, Gudule ; and ne adrlia the ladln lo poat. 
ponamiMng anypurohifonntathejhiwwen 
tbo aboTO iCoc^- ^wuded tli« prUe medal bf 
tba oommlMonen of th* graal EiUbltliiii, and 
a gold medal bi Iht Eelgian lOTanunont. VM- 
loTBihonld be particular In not mletaldD; tba 
bouH, or confOundbiff tbla oatabUibmanl with 
otben, wblcb ma; be eudlr Maided, on Ott nam* 

LmsAKi .uiD BuDiia Xoou.— Fromnit^ 
No, M, llonlagna da la Com ; wdl mppUad ia 
erer; reapAct, u legsrdi an aiUmin llbnuT 
and varletT of nenp^ion and porlodisali. It 
ii also tho dDpilt for iha nla of fnnMoti'i 
Raihca^ Biada and Band Booti, 

guf Enropiaie rt da Indu of U. Ohuaaa Ain^ 
26, Hue de la HonUgne, fiuftv t^ Oaoanl 
Foil omce, iriU remind tha ladKi of Iha boM 
■unuebi L>Dndon.aDd tbt; mar nlj on ^ tb* 

artldea balig vluU tho} a 



TiiLoB^TnTallen wlD Ond a bqa MoA oC 
read; made WHriDg apparal, aftba bwlfbiMw^ 

atT. B. OallU'd'i,4a,RMd»Ult ' ' 
at moat rmmai^ ^^irv^joh. 
,ci«cul«4, vUc^ ^a a. V 



40 



EZrOUSH DIRBCrOBT— WATEBIXK). 



{Route 7 



tourists. Mr. OoOard bas also branch firtaMlwli 
meats at Ghent^ Namur, and Charloroi. 
JSowursioiM >Vwm Bruudt. 

Watbrloo.— .Hotel : Brasdne. 

Sergeant Mundi^, late of the 7th hnisan, is 
the best guide for English and American trardi- 
lers. 

The excurrion to Wateiioo is a rery pleasant 
oneindeed—throngh the forest of Solves. Few 
Engiish or American travellers who visit Brussels, 
can refrain from going to Waterloo and Momit 
St. Jean, the Chateau of Hongoumont^ La Haie 
Sainte, Quatre Bras, &c., which, wiUi their 
exciting associations, are as attractive as ever. 

The expense of a party going to Waterloo was 
formerly 27 francs, but this has been rednced to a 
more reasonable price by the spirit of English 
enierprise. Instead of the dose vigHUmU^ or lum- 
bering carriage, there are now two English four- 
horse Mail Coaches, belonging to Messrs. Copper 
and Suffell, which run daily between Brussels and 
Mount St. Jean on the field of Waterloo . Fares, 
5 francs there and back 1 1 Ladies in particular 
vrill find these conveyances by far the most 
anreeable and unexceptionable, as a two-hone 
hranck coach conveys the passengers frcfoi tAe 
xr^Xage of Mow^ St. Jean across the field to 
Hougomonty thus obviating all fatigue on a sultry 
day, and inconvenience in unfavourable weather. 
The "Warrior" starts from the Hotel de 
rUnivers, at 9 a.m., and the " Victoria** from 
the Hotel de Saxe, at 10 a.m., calling at the 
Hotel de PUnivers, and both taking up passen- 
gers, a short time after, at the Hotel ** Grande 
Bretagne," on the Place Boyale, returning to 
Brussels in time for the Table d'Hdte. We 
strongly recommend travellers to secure thehr 
olaces, for the day they wish to go, immediately 
on their arrival in Brussels, at SufFell's, No. 17, 
Eue Villa Hermosa, Montague de la Cour; or of 
J. Copper, 23, Esphnade^ Port de Namnr. 

These conv^ances render a visit to Waterloo 
agreeable and cheap, but as they interfere with 
the parties who formeriy let out vehicles for 
Waterloo, these coaches are opposed by Waiters 
and Commissioners. We therefore think it 
right to warn our readers, that if they mention 
'* Waterloo," attempts will be made to dissande 
them from going by the **MaH Coadte%" though 
we hope nnsucoessftilly, as these ctmvqrances are 
deddedfyibebett, Iw&ie' req)ecCab]y conducted . 



by steady BngUsh ooadbanen; aad ooiulderiqg 
titet the proprietoisare twoindustrlonal^lish. 
men, who have established these ooadiesfw the 
conveyance of travellers, we thhik they are enti. 
tied to the support of their fUlow-ooiiiitrymen. 
The proprietors of the above oonv^yanoss 
having made arrangements with Sergt. Mnndsy 
to aocompany aU passengers by the said ooadies 
over the field, thegr are recommended to pay a 
franc in addition to the fkre^ to indade the ser- 
vices of Sergeant Munday, whose descriptions of 
the battle are considered very entertaining. 
This of course does not apply to passengers bj 
other eonvayanoea and it is therefore another 
advantage of going by the Mail Coadiea. 

Travellers wishing to possess a condse and 
authentic history of the celebrated battle, should 
purchase **The Voice from Waterloo,** by the lata 
Sergeant-major Cotton, to be had at the Waterloo 
Museum, at the foot of the Lion Mount. 

Waterloo is a large and handsome villaace. Its 
diurch is an elegant rotunda, adorned by a neat 
flrontiapieoe, bearing an inscription, which states 
that the Marquis of Castanaga, governor of the 
Low Countries, laid the first stone of the dinrdi 
in 1090. The hamlet of Mount St. Jean is a little 
beyond Waterloo. The French named the battle 
of the 18th June, 1816, after this hamlet, Mont 
St. Jean; the victorious armies, as it is well 
known, called it after the village of Waterioo. 
Plancenois, where the flEunai of La Belle ABianoe 
is situated, is stUl a Httie further on. 

The road from Brussels to Waterloo lies for 
the greater part through the Forest of Soigniei^ 
and except the view of the town obtained nesr 
the village of Lcdles, presents no feature worthy 
of observation. 

Byron, using a poetical license, describes tke 
mardi of the British troops through the forest 
hi the following beautiful lines :— 

" ArdenncB weavaB above them her green leaver 
Dewy with natoze'B tear drops, as they paea* 
Orievlng, if ooght inanimate e'er grieves. 
O'er the nnretTumlng teave. Alaa I 
*Bie eyaning tobetroddanlike the graaa 
Which now beneath them. bataboTO shall grow 
In its next Terdare. wh«i its flery maaa 
Of living Talonr, ndllBuK on the foe, 
And burning with hi^ hope, shall mouMttColi 
and low." 

This forest is nine mfles long, and about tig^t 
broad. 

The village of Waterloo receives us iinT«<Mi«- 
ately on leaving the forest, but contains nothing 
to aXtnuc^ out aX\«ii\.V»U)«x<QQ^t the eiegaatBttlt 



Route 7] 



WATBRLOa 



41 



drarcb, sarmounted by a baadsome dome, and 
oontaining several marble tablets to the memory 
of those who fell in the contest, and the house 
In which the leg of Lord Uxbridge was ampa. 
tated. The spot in the garden in which the 
shattered member was buried, is designated by 
A small monmnent. In this church are thirty 
tablets and mommients, melancholy memorials of 
the horrible vicissitudes of war, of its victims the 
English o£Bcers who fell on that memorable field. 

" Maoy a woimded Briton ih«n was laid. 
With Boch poor help m tim* might then allow. 
From the tnah eamage of the field conveyed. 
And they, whom human miooonr ooold not nve. 
Here in its predncts fmind a has^ grave. 
And here, on marble tablets set on high. 
In English lines, by foreign workmen tzao'd. 
Are names familiar to an English eye ; 
Their brethren here the fit memorials placed. 
Whose nnadomed inscriptions briefly tell 
Their gallant comzadfls' rank and where they fbU." 

BouiuBr. 

It was In this village that the Duke of WeL- 
Bngton established his head quarters on the night 
of the 17th of June, 1815. About a mile beyond 
Waterloo we pass through the hamlet of Mount 
St. Jean, and leaving the road to Nivelles on the 
rights we proceed in the direction of Genappe and 
Charleroi, and soon after arrive at the fiurm of 
Mount St. Jean, which was immediately in xhj 
rear of the centre of the British line. Proceeding 
ftirth^ on the road to Charleroi, we arrive at 
la B^e-alliance, a farm-house and hamlet situate 
on the opposite ridge, and corresponding with the 
ISurm of Mount St. Jean. This is the extent of the 
scene of the tourist's observation; and before 
drawing his attention to the minute localities, we 
proceed to recall to his mind the principal evects^ 
of those memorable battles. The campaign of 
1815 was remarkable for its brief duration^t 
lasted but four days; yet, in that short space of 
time, more than 50,000 human beings were swept 
firom the foce of the earth by the ruthless 
hand of war. On the 16th of June, the French 
army, commanded by the Emperor Napoleon in 
person, and consisting of about 130,000 men, 
20,000 of whom were the old imperial guards, all 
well equipped, and accompanied by a numerous 
train of artillery, passed tibe Sambre, and having 
defeated some regiments of Pruarianp, took pos- 
■Mri on of CbMrlenL » town, at that time, wishott 



defence. On the 16th, liiey advanced into tiie 
plains of Fleurus, where the fate of Belgium haa 
fliricc been decided, and at Ligny attacked the 
Prussian army, whose commander, Field-Marsbal 
Blucher narrowly esci4>ed being taken prisoner, 
he had been thrown from his horse in the midst 
of the action, and surrounded on all sides by the 
pursuing enemy, whose precipitation alone pr^ 
vented their recognizing the marshal's person. 
A momentary repulse of the French by a body of 
Prussian cavalry, afforded Blucher time to be 
extricated from his perilous situation and 
mounted on a dragoon horse. The French took 
some pieces of artillery and remain*^ masters of 
the field. While these operations were rapidfy 
earrying on, a strong column of French txvope 
advanced towards Quatre-bras, a point of junc- 
tion of four roads, nearly twenty miles from 
Brussels, on the road to Charleroi, where the 
f Prince of Orange was posted with a di/ision coai- 
I posed partly of Belgian and partly British troo^ 
A warm action took place, in which the yoony 
prince displayed the greatest bravery and ability, 
and the Duke of Brunswick was killed at the 
head of his famous black corps, so called fitNn 
wearing a black uniform, out of respect to the 
memory of the duke, bis father, who was mortally 
wounded at the battle of Jena. During the 
night this division of the troops fell bade upon 
Waterloo, to Join the Duke of Wellington, oom- 

Imander-in-chief of the Anglo. Belgian army, who 
had his head-quarters in that village; his trocpa 
I were posted in fhmt of the forest of Soignies, hi 
an extentive line, covered by entrenchments, and 
defended by a immerons train of artillery. TUe 
position occupied a line of about one mile and • 
half in length, the centre befaig in ft^mt of tb«> 
farmhouse of Mount St. Jean; the left extending 
along the ridge, until the extreme flank reached 
a hamlet called Smouken, and a fiirm-hoase 
named Papelotte, and having in fi^nt the farm of 
La Haye-Sainte, whence a succession of broken 
roads formed a precarious communication w th 
Blucher's position at Wavre; and the right 
stretching along the same heights, followiiig their 
direction in a semicircular slope backwards^ untQ 
the extreme flank rested on M&rle-Braine, ^ere 
it was protected by a ravine. The right of thA 
British army, extendi:!)!^ ^qb^ \^^ tKs&K^ ^scsSkr. 



«2 



LA BELLR ALUANCK 



FBoirte? 



ground in firont of fhe Bxitlsh pofition. sloped 
easfly down into low^ ground, forming a sort of 
TaJQey— not a lerd plain, but a declivity, varied 
by uumy gentle sweeps and hollows, as if formed 
'pj the course of a river. The ground then 
ascends in the same manner to a ridge opposite 
to that of Mount St. JeaOi and running parallel 
to it at the distance of twelve or fourteen hundred 
yards. This was the position of the enemy. The 
Talley between the two ridges is entirely open 
ai|d unindosed, and on that memorable day bore 
• tall and strong crop of com. But in the centre 
of the vaUey, about half way between the two 
lidges, and situated considerably to the right of 
fhe English centre, was the Ch&ieau de Gou- 
inonty or Hougoumont. This was a gentleman's 
house of the old Flemish architecture, having a 
tower and battlements. It was surrounded on 
one dde by a large farm yard, and on the other 
opening to a garden and orchard, and faced by a 
brick wall: the whole encircled by a grove of 
tiUl trees. This chdteatt, with the advantages 
afforded by Its wood and orchard, formed a strong 
foint cTappui to the British right wing. The 
ohilteau was occupied by a detachment of the 
guards under Lord Saltoun. The French army 
was full two miles in length, extending along 
the opposite ridge, and having La Belle Al- 
liance in the centre of their line. Napoleon 
at this time had about 100,000 men with him; 
the allies about 70,000, exclusive of the Frus- 
■ians. Here took place, on the 18th of June, the 
■angulnary battle by which the fiette of Europe 
was decided. It began at eleven o'dock in the 
morning and continued till seven in the evening. 
The boldness and exasperation exhibited by the 
French troops in their repeated attacks have few 
parallels in history; whilst the English received 
each saocessive shock with the coolest and most 
determined intrepidity. The French army was 
preparing to make a last assault, whoi the Prus- 
sian general, Bulow, appeared on their flanks, at 
the head of two divisions. A firightfiil panic then 
■pread through the Frendi ranks, and Bona- 
parte^ abandoned by fortune, whose idol he had 
so often seemed, was hurried firom the field by 
the impetuous torrent of fugitives. All the 
French artillery, a great part of the baggage, and 
•vea the private Carriage of Napoleon, feU Into 
the hands of the victors. This victory, however, 
»a9 daarir purohased. The loM to tli« ricton 



was gre«t indeed. Beiid* «1m 0«Mnh fktin 
and Ponsonby, the Umb of the Britioh sod 
verians on the 16th and IStli, amonntad to! 
less than 13,000 men and 750 offioen^ the : 
of the army, of whom more than two-tfatardpM 
at Waterloo; thti tntwl Inw nf tlin Fi iimilaiM. fti 
the commencement of the ean^kaign, to %riir 
second triumphant entry into Farfa, has tan 
officially stated at 38,000; but that of the Fmb* 
ahnost exceed beliefl Thegr began tlM dif 
between 165,000 to 160,000 strong; and 
their own account the wreck <tf the army 
it was collected together did not Mtm wwt to 6<VMi 
men. Who can think of this wwk ci >»m— 
destruction without a thrill <tf horror at the 
dreadful havoo of modem warfiue, or what turn 
would hedtate to adopt the duistian pciiid^ 
of peace and good will, with the view of avertteg 
such inhuman conflicts as these seenea have 
witnessed, or of which these plains were the 
theatre. From that moment the village ef 
Waterloo became an object of interesting euri* 
osity to travellers of aU nations, but above al 
to the English, who contemplate, with a muhn 
choly pride, fields which have been mofstflnal 
with the life-springs of so many of their fidlev 
oountrymen. 

Having briefly traced the momentous <»■ — 1« 
that will long continue to impart a po w er ftJ 
interest to the plains of Waterloo, we proceed to 
point out such particular land-marks as nay 
serve to give the tourist a correct idea oi tti^ 
positions taken by the contending armies dndBf 
the contest, and, with the assistance of a ftw 
details, enable him to ascertain the precise q{0^ 
of many heroic deeds. For this purpose^ it is 
necessary to retrace our steps, in order to ooo^ 
mence with the Forest of Soignies. The foresi 
presents itself at a mile and three-quarters ftem 
the village, and after displaying all the niiQiieHn 
grandeur of qdvan scenery, disappears a Uttin 
beyond Waterloo. The prindpal road throsvl^ 
the wood to this village is of great length aad 
extreme regularity; but the unvarying, unlfinm 
appearance of the trees which fringe It^ give a 
sombre aiqpect to the routo. The forest, wbioh 
is about seven miles and a half in breadU^ and 
nine miles in length, contains many defiles^ aad 
Is interspersed with hikes, vales, brooks, hainM% 
and cultivated plains. Great quantitlss ot «ik 
WKeiUlAdbiQOounaodof Bonaparte, ia oHtf 



lUmta T} 



MOUNT ST. JSAXr— LA BATE SAIRTIt— ROUOOUUOST. 



48 



lo fopply fbe dofdE-yards at Aimrterdam; but 
the forest still abounds in fine timber, and a 
thodsand acres of it, whidi b^ong to the Duke 
«f Wellington, are said to jdeld a revenue of 
forty firancs an acre. The proximity of this 
Immense mass of wood to Brussels, renders the 
dty somewhat damp and cold when the wind 
blows firom that quarts; oti the other hand, 
firom its great attraetire powers, thunder-douds 
frequently discharge themselves there, which 
might otherwise carry heavy storms into the 
town. Nearly at the extremity of the forest, and 
■be>«t ten mQes from BrusseHs stands Waterloo, 
M before-mentioned. 

MouHT St. Jkaf.— This hamlet, which, as 
before-mentioned, is more than a mile from 
Waterloo, at a place where the road divides into 
two branches, of whidi that on the left leads to 
Oeni4>pe, and that on the right to Nivelles, must 
not be oonfomided by the tourist with the fiurm- 
house of Mount 9t Jean, half a mile in advance 
of the village, on the road to the farm of La 
Haye Sainte, whidi was in the immediate rear 
•f the British position. From this farm an easy 
•seent leads to the ridge which formed the line 
•f oooiQMKtion of the British army. Near the centre 
^this ridge stood the Wellington tree, so called hi 
•onseqiMnoe cf the duke havhig taken his station 
t h ere during a great part of the 18th. This tree 
was out down and sold in 1821. In fi^nt Is a 
Ittla valley^ inregnlarly formed, with numerous 
ftntie windings and hollows, and varying in 
h yr ea d tfa ttom a quarter to half a mile. This was 
Hw seene of the murderous conflict. The op- 
#orite ridges, running parallel to Mount St. Jean, 
were ooenpied by the French. A stupendous 
trionphal mound of a conical shape, surmounted 
fty m colossal Belgic lion in bronze, was con- 
ftmcted at the expense of the Netherlands 
government on the plains of St. Jean. The base 
of the monument is a hundred and rixty yards 
in diameter, and the height of the whole nearly 
flffyyaWto. 

La Haye SahUe.— This is the name of a large 
Ihurm-honse on the road firom Mount St. Jean to 
Ia BeUe AlBanoe, and about a mile from the 
Ibrmer places on the Oenappe road. It was in 
the left centre of the British position, and a little 
la advance of WdUngton's tree. In the imme- 
dtele vicinity of this house, which reedved much 
k^mrf ta aU direetiOD^ «od et|»9dal]|y in what 



forms the back part of the buildfaig, a dreadfli. 
carnage took place between the combatants. It 
was taken by the French army on the day, and 
maintained by them until nearly the end ct tha 
battle. On the side of the building towards th« 
road a monument has been erected to the me- 
mory of some o£Bcers of the 2nd German LegUm^ 
who fell in the onslaught; and at a little distanet^ 
on the opposite side of the road, is a hollow way, 
where 4,000 men and a great number of horsei 
were buried in one common grave. Near this 
spot fell Sir Thomas Picton, leading a galUmt 
charge on the French cuirassiers. 

Hoitgoumont The large farm-house or diS* 

teau so called was fiercely contested. It is 
situated on the right of La Haye Sainte from 
Waterloo, at the distance of about a mile firom 
the former place. The British had possession <tf 
the house and gardens, and fought with a dea- 
perate courage to maintain it; while the French, 
led on by Jerome Boni^arte, who, thoiq^ 
wounded in the arm, still kept the flcU, made 
equal efforts to expel them, aware that, if thi^y 
became masters of the place, the whole of the 
British lines would be exposed to their fire. It 
was, in fact, the key-stone of the British posttlon. 
The garden was protected on three sides bje 
strong wall, which served'our troops as a breast- 
work, and from behind which th^ aimed at the 
assailants with deadly certainly ; the unprotected 
part commanded a view of Lord WelUngton*! 
position on the heights. In vafaa the enemy made 
repeated attempts to scale the garden wall from 
the adjoinhig orchard, and though theythriee 
entered the gates of Hougoumont, they were aa 
often repulsed, and driven out with severe kieii 
At length, after a destruct i ve ftn of artiDery, and 
the most frightftil carnage, the Frencb succeeds 
in setting the place on fire, and great numbers oi 
killed and wounded on both sides were buried la 
the ruins. The place was entirely -destroyed* 
with the exception of the chi^iel and an out- 
house, which escaped almost uninjured. Many 
of the surrounding tirees were severed in two^ 
while otliers were completdy perforated with 
balls. A large but rudely-carved figure of the 
Sariour is placed over the altar in the dupal» 
which is very small, and by no means curious. 

La BeOe AUianee.—A small Cwro^-Visssafc^ ^*» 
oaEed, mA ««rVsn% «a %sv Visa. <A ^^>s«ss2^^ 
\ WiiA^ Vi *Bmiw4 i3mwX «DM(^-9P»^^ 



44 



KABLB BRAINB— SATXHTRBIC* 



rB«vte7 



from La Haye Sainte, on the road to Gcnappe. 
It was here that the Duke of WelUngton and 
Pnnoe Blucher met on the evening of the day of 
battle. Having embraced hi the most affectionate 
manner, the duke retired on his position, and 
Blucher went in pursuit of the flying enemy. 
Bonaparte posted his favourite guard in front 
of this place, and never approached in person 
neerer to La Haye Saintethan the hollow part of 
Hbo ground between that place and La Belle v 
Alliance and the main road. The Prussians • 
have erected a monument in iron near this spot> 
to commemorate the success of their army. 

ICaklb BRAiirB.>— This small place is on the 
right of the village of Mount St. Jean, and 
about a mile from it. The British reserve on 
the right, commanded by Major-General Hum- 
ber, was posted on this part of the field; 
but no event occurred to raider the spot 
memorable. 

The ground where the battle was fought pro- 
duced the best crops in Belgium for many years 
after the sanguinary event. Over the spot where 
lagr mouldering in aahee the broken fragments of 
humanity, sacrificed at the shrine of cruel, re- 
morseless war, the green com of spring waved 
luxuriantly, and in summer time shot forth its 
golden ear full of grain, nurtured by the dust of 
friend and foe, who, but for the fury of war, 
might have slept peaceably in consecrated earth, 
beneath the green sward of the village church- 
jard, and appeared before the God of Peace, 
imdeflled with blood. 

* Bat -wfaeze I itood, beneath the fireeh green tree. 
Which. living, waves where thou didst oease to Urt, 
^nil saw axoond me the wide fields revive 
With, frolts and fertile promise, and the spring 
Oome forth her work of gladness to contrive, 
Kith all her reckless birds upon the wing. 
1 tamed firom all she brought to those she cObll nut 
bring." fiTBOV. 

** Was it a soothing or a mourttf ol ihoa^nt, 
Amid this scene of slaughter, as we stood. 
Where armies had with ibcent tary fought* 
To mark how gentle nature still pursued 
Her qulst couiM, as if she took no care 
VOT TllAt her noblest work had suflbred there." 

BoDTKxr. 

Yieitors to Waterloo will find hordes of beggars, 
and fenows selling retdquaXres, in the shape of 
Mbred^ of alotb, Aagtnmi* oi aoooatre- 



ments, buOeto. Very many meiaadioly 

rials of tne carnage were brou£^ to Ug^ for 

some years after the battle. 

There are several other pretty places to wUdi 
excursions oould be made with pleasure tnm 
Brussels, such as Forest, Trois Fontaines^ Ter- 
veuren, and 

Savsmthem, 12 miles from Brussels a oom- 
mune of the district of Brussels, with 1,2M 
inhabitants. The churdi will well repay a vidt 
to the amateur of painting, who will see there a 
magnificent picture by Van Dyck, representiag 
St. Martin on his horse, givhig a portion of his 
doak to a poor man. The history of this paint- 
iag is interesting, and deserves relating. 

Van Dyck, on his way to bid farewell to his 
illustrious master, previous to his departure for 
Rome, was mounted on a superb horse, a gift 
from Rubens, and passed by Saventhem. It was 
a holiday, and the people were dancing undor the 
trees. Van Dyck delayed, and danced with the 
most beautiful girl in the village, and before the 
ball was over found himself deeply in love with 
her. He was then twenty-four years of age. 
Rome was forgotten. Days, weeks, and months 
rolled by : lib money was all gone. Van Dyc^s 
passion beinx now calmed, and his resourees 
exhausted, he found that his interests and fitme 
called him to Rome; but what was he to do, not 
havhig a florin to bring hhn there. Happily his 
coufage sustained him. He presented himself to 
the cur^ and proposed to paint an altar piece for 
his church. The subject was agreed on, and the 
price fixed at 100 florins. The painting was 
finished in five days. Van Dyck himself and his 
horse served as models for the horse and sain^ 
and the beadle of the church for the poor maa. 
The cure was, by chance, a judge of painting: 
he paid the demand without murmuring, and 
Van Dyck set out for Rome. This circomskanoe 
provided the poor village church with a eh^- 

doeewe, 

Waterloo to Namttb.— This route oaa 
scarcely fell to prove deeply hitercsting to the 
traveller, on account of the memorable events 
interwoven with each item of ila history. It is 
called the « Cockpit of Europe," and certainly 
we must admit that it has some claim to sudi a 
namA, when we recollect that it has, for asuoees* 
sion of ages, been the spot on which the EoropesA 
I pOTranmttttaidjMdliartav^totrf tbefa'reipeolifft 



■N 



7] 






ue miiit 
ie on itt 

oppodto 
talipot of 



la&der df 

gOB, w« 
B€iui|ipe. 
9uul€Vol| 
^hisplMS 
oonttr 4f 
lasting 
tewliiift 



to Cbiliw 



Bamarttan. AftfaatteferoiiMatatiwofakBlgkl 
In armour, called Jean de NiTelles, strikes the 
hours on the chimes in the smaller tower. There 
is a cloister coxmected with the church, which 
formerly belonged to the abbey of St. fiertrude, 
who was first Abbess. Between NiTelles and 
Quar tre Bras Uea the esUUe presented by the KJing 



nMeh !■ 
e to thm 
sinifH. 
teraolM 



mufetrer 
ot whMM 
•tores of 

On fb« 
ianswers 

BhnlMr 
toWarrt 



B RUSSBLS TO SoiOIfXBS AITD Jl 

Between Jnrbise and Mona fbt i 
many examples oi engineering 
approaching Mona a matB^Si^RK^ 
I the ej« ot I3hft trw^«-5&«B(K^*BS^^'*^ 




o 



7] 

gInagOm, amending xaOUons ni txeumm, aai ' 
gtujjjm ooeaoB of human blood in decidfaig 
^Mxrels that ought Bever to hare arisen, had a 
proper policy ruled their respeotiye cabinets. 
Onr road leads us through Waterloo and Quatre- 
Btaa, YTavre Fleuris, Ligny, and the small viOage 
ut BamilUes, the latter spot memorable for 
llarlborough's victory over the French and 
Bavarians^ lie within a stone's throw of our path, 
or within the province of Brabant. The lirst 
■nemorabie qiot we oome to is 

UuiApn (Iim: Hdtel Martinean), 15 miles 
Vom Brussdt, asmall viUage with about 2,000 
nhaUtants. A Uttle beyond the village, the 
Yussiaci^ on the night after the battle, sdsed 
Jie oarriage of Napoleon, and had almost nigh 
osade hltn their prisoner. 
The road you see on the right, leads to 
NrrxLLM (Inn : Hotel Coronne), 11 miles fWnn 
here, a relief place of the third arrondissement of 
the province of Brabant, «vatered by the Thirme 
stream, aikd containing a population of 8^000 
souls, though at one time, in the sixteenth cen- 
tury, it numbered 30,000. The dinrch of St. 
Oertmde is a beautiAd edifice, built in the Ro. 
manesque style of architectnre. Over the gprand | 
altar is an ezquisitely-wronght g^thic shrine 
nukterialed of gilt metal, hi which repose the rdics 
of St. Gertrude, daughter of Pepin, chief magis- 
trate of the town at one time. A crypt in the 
une style of architecture as the chureh, under 
he tower, is firequently visited by pilgrims to the 
ihrine of St. Gertrude. They squeeze themselves 
1 between one of the pillars and the wail, imder 
'he impression that such a process tends to cure 
a oertain sickness. St. Gertrude, it isrelated, in 
order to preserve herself from a noble suitor for 
her hand that followed her, fled from him 
through a fissure in the wall, and so escaped liis 
inqwrtunities, and preserved her vow of perpetual 
virginity. In this churdi, also, are two exceed, 
ingly well-carved pulpits, by Delvaux. The 
woodm one represents Elijah hi the Desert, and 
the marble one depicts the history of the Good 
Samaritan. A gigantic bronze statue of a knight 
In armour, called Jean de Nivelles, strikes the 
hours on the chimes in the smaller tower. There 
k a dolster connected with the church, which 
formerly belonged to the abbey of at. Gertrude, 
who was first Abbess. Between Nivelles sad 
QaartreBraslieetheeitatepresentedbytheKing \ 



« 



of Holland, to the late Duke of WeUington, ae m 
memento of appreciation for his military servioeii 

The JJbbejf of VUUers, a picturesque niin» 
bearing traces of the Romanesque style on itt 
decaying fragment, lies 3 miles east of Geoappe; 
and 2 miles from the same place, in an oppodte 
direction, is the village of Boug, the natal spot of 
the first crusader, Godfrey de Bouillon. 

At TnxT, 6 miles ttom Qenappe, wu honk 
Count Kerdas de Tilly in 1559, commander df 
the forces in the thirty years' war, and the oppo* 
nent of Guirtavas Adolphns. Proceeding on, w« 
pass Quatre Bras, 3 mOes distant flrom Gemote. 
At this point the roads from BrosseSs^ Oharterol^ 
Namur, and IQvdles meet. It was att this phMS 
the Duke of Brunswidc fUl in the encoorter «f 
the 16th of June, 1815. At the north.eMt an^ 
of the four roadi^ stands the fknu-hooM towfaMh 
the late Duke of Wellington was besieged ant 
nearly taken prisoner by a body of nrMMk 
cavalry, who made a sudden and unaxpaeta^ 
charge on it, which was repulsed by the Bn^lih 
infkntry. A road bending south leads to Cll«K 
leroi, by Gosseleis, and the one leading Bovth<i«iat 
brings us to 

SoBfBXFFB, four miles 8onth-w«st of WMeh la 
Fleuroa, a little village, giving a name to tha 
victory of the French over the Anstrians in IfH. 
In the same ensanguined plain Bonapirte raoMl 
the Prussians under Bluober, roudnig dmn from 
Ligny, two miles ftuther on, two di^ tMNm flte 
battle of Waterloo. This little villaga must t?er 
hold a place in history, as being the spot whMM 
Wellington and Binder concerted meaaoNS of 
co-operation for the action of the ISOi. On tH6 
left of our road we see where the Prussians ynt% 
drawn up near St. Armand and Ligny. Btoebar 
stood at the hill of Buqr, and retreated to Warn 
after his defeat. In 1622 and 1G90 this spot was 
also the scene of two severely-contested actfona. 

Crossing a small stream we reach the faiie- 
resting height overhanging and oommandiqgA 
good view of Namur and the valley of the ideoM^ 

Namur. — ^Route 8^ page 49. 

BnuBeU to (iuievram eomtinned, 

B RussBLS TO SoioifXBs AHD JuRBiaB, feeruitte !• 

Between Jnrbise and Mona the road p ra i e n ti 
many examples oi engineering difllcuHies. On 
approaching Mons a magnlflcoiit view fSFeaAft 
the eyeoCtSMtt«««3&j«---^&iaaoB^^^i^i^>^^^«"ei^">^ 



46 



MONS— CHURCH OF «T. WAUDRV. 



[Honte 7. 

him. Before entering the town, the oomiDime| the birth-place of Peter Den^B, • Jonmennni 
of Nimy and the river Uaine are passed; run- blacksmith, who constracted the beantiftd troa 
ning parallel to om> another, the raUroad and | ornaments which decorate the Abbey of 8t* 
mer pass throupli a bastion, and enter the town ; Denis, near Paris- 



together, 
aiaenal. 



The Station is aituated within the 



Hove (Hotel: de la Conronneb the beetX 
thirty-eight milee from Brussels, is a hurge and 
ftrtlfled town, the chief town nf the proTinoe of 
Uainaclt. Population, 31,000. The river Trouille 
dirides it into two parts, and is partly overlooked 
1^ the mound of the Panina. It is said that 
Jnlins Csesar buDt a castie here, which, taUng 
die name of Caetnim Cassaris, formed the be- 
ginning of the town of Mons— destroyed by the 
barbarians in th.) fifth century. Alberic, Count 
of Hainanlt, repaired the remains of the town, 
and surrounded it with walls. In 804» Charle- 
OMgne formetl it into the capital of a province. 
Mons after this became the sc^ie of many 
troubles. Under the reign of Charles V. it had 
its greatest degree of prosperity; the maaufac- 
tores of cloth and serge were carried on to a 
great extent. Iron was wrought here to great 
advantage, and the beauty of the chasing hi their 
jewdlery excited the admiration of strangers. 
Under the French Republic, Mons l>ecame the 
d^artment of Jemmapes. The fortifications, 
rebuilt in 1815 upon a new plan, are preserved 
with mudi care. The streets are steep, but wide, 
dean, and in good repair. The monuments and 
cu r torfties are numerous, and worthy of attention. 

Mons was the natal town of Orlando Lassus, 
the celebrated musician of the sixteenth century. 
Ten miles south of Mons, withfai the French ter- 
ritories, is the spot where was fought the san- 
guinary battle of Malplaquet, at which the Duke 
of Marlborough and Princo Eugene conquered 
the French, and lost on the battle field 20,000 men. 

Mons has a communication with the Scheldt 
hj the Canal de Cond£ ; and also, by railway, with 
Jurblse, Ath, Toumai, Lille, and Calais. 

Mons also possesses manufactures of gloves, 
leather, and cutiery, and several tan-yards and 
bleaching grounds. The principal buildings are 
the Gaatie, the Hdtel de Vilie, and the Church of 
St. Waudru, which is said to be built on the site 
of Caesar's Castie. The altar deserves attention. 
Tb€^ i§ also a Theatre, a PabUo Library, a 
CiMOv^ and a Fomdttag Hoqtftil. Koof WM 



.-■■w 




Church of St. Waudru^h said to be &e 
in Belgium. It was founded in 1460, on the die 
of another church burnt in 1169. Mor« than a 
century elapsed ere the works were finftrtied. The 
nave is a masterpiece of boldness, elegance^ mi 
lightness; the numerous columns which 
it and form innuraerab^ Gothic arches 
top, compose a most delightftil whole. %^toC 
will not penult us to enter ftirther into dr*^*^ 
connection with the many curiositiea 4 
church, save hi allowing us to notice the 
picture of the fixaltation of St. Fniusia, fey 
Thulden ; a Descent from the Cross, by 
a Gothic altar, finely sculptured; the 
stained glass hi the windows; and las^ 
not least, the fine statues, formeriy 
screen, but happily preserved. 

St. Elizdbeth.~-Thia church is remaikaMo fbr 
its light and graceful spire. 

St. NichoUUf in Havre, is noted for the severe 
and imposing aspect of the interior. It possesses 
some fine carving hi wood. From the tower of 
the belfry a magnificent view of the surrounding 
country ia obtained. 

The Public Library is open every day : it oon- 
tains 13,000 volumes, and about 300 manuscripts. 

Hdtel de VUU \a a Gothic edifice, erected hi 
the year 1440. It contains nothing remarfcable^ 
but is the chief ornament of the Grand Square. 

The Paiaiis de Justice and Muteum will wdl 
repay a visit. 

At Mons a branch railway ensures a direct 
communication from Paris to Charleroi, Namnr, 
and Cologne. This route avoids the detour to 
Braine-le-Comte. On leaving Mons, the railway 
crosses the river Troidlle, and passes not very fkr 
from the Canal de Cond6 and the Shiices of St. 
Ghislain ; after which it reaches Jemmies Sta- 
tion. 

Mons to Quievbaht. — ^After leaidng the fi>rtl< 
flcation the railroad inclines at firat towards the 
right) traversing an extensive plain, bounded on 
the left by the Panisel and the little hills of Fldna 
and crowned by the high ohimn^ of numerous 
coal works. The canal from Mons to Cond^ 
whichiinadistance of five leagues, runs hi apstw 
toottj itet^\t!t'\bM«Vkiwin.«nk^9u^>irfbti»«a «laotlM 




laUrlM at Bt ITudiw Mont. 



Ronte Q 



n. 



vll!»ge of Coem^, tMUifalM of one of tha moit 
nnguinary eipisodes of the celebrated battle of 
Jemmapee. Passing the laeairf of Flenn, the eta- 
lionof 

JsMHAPis is readied. A ■naU village remark- 
able for the victory gained by the Frendi under 
General Dumourier, and the late Louis PhlUppe, 
when Duke de Chartres, over the Anstrians 



Sovthem Line» and the point of juaetloii wilh 
the Great Northern of Fianoe RaUwaj. 

QOIKVBAIII TO YAIXHCaXlllEM, — 

Blamo MiasBBOH b next met with, after whkli 
we enter 

VALKNCXEinrKs.— Route ], page i. 

Valenciennes to Paris by rail. The delay 
during the examination of Inggageb whinh talus 



stone dose to the post road 

of the battle. Outside the town 
Immense heaps of coal these are the aocu- 
mulations of a buqr time, brought to supply 
an apparent demand, which, however, did not 
long. ThoTiUage of Qnaregnon is passed 
leaving JemmH>ee, near to which are seen 
the ruins of the andent tower, known by the 
name of the High Ck>urt. The railroad here 
talras a considerable bend, and shortly after runs 
into the straight Une, idiidi oontinues to the 
ftmitier. The country on each side is in high 
ottltivation» and adorned with ma^y beautiftil 
country houses. The station of 

St. Obislatji is next readied, the dinrdi of 
wbidiisontherigfat. On the left are the magni- 
ficent establishments of Homu, established by 
the hOe Mad. Degorges Legrand. St. Ghislain 
is a very andent town; population, 3,600. The 
surrounding country very much resembles the 
neighbouxhood of Mandiester and Bolton. 

Boosso is the next station; it is the chief 
plaoeofa canton: population, 3,600. Thech&teau 
ef the Count de Caraman, at present the {uro- 
perty of the Count de Nedondidles^ is here 
ritnated. This architectural wonder should be 
seen by the tourist; there are many remaricable 
traditions connected with it. The station has 
been erected in a part oi the magnificent park, 
flrom which it is separated by a splendid iron 
railing. The church of Boussu contains some 
line pieces of sculpture. Between Boussu and 
Thnlin, the next station, there is nothing worthy 
ti notice. Quievrain is arrived at shortly after 
leaving TfauHn; it is the last station of the Bd- 
gian raflway. The office of the Belgian Custcm 
House is here, and the passports and baggage of 
parties entering Belgium are examined. 

iiviBvajuii (the station of the Bdgian Cnstem 
House).— A town containfaig ^000 inhabitants, 



marks the | place at Yalendennes, b considerable. 



BOUTB 8. 

Brussels to Charterol am4 Nanaor* 

<8j| English miles. (BBVssxLe to Braoohw 
CoBTTB, see Boute 1.— At Braine-lo-Comte the 
Hne to Namtir branches off east trom that ef 
Ifons. Travellers pro<seeding to Namnr dnnft 
carriages here. 

Leaving the Mons Railway on the right, tilt 
station of Ecausines is shortly arrived at; it kre- 
nowned for its valuable quarries of bhie lime atone. 
After leaving the station a fine viaduct ef nine 
arches b passed. The cfaurdi of the vilhife ef 
Hardi^Ies-Ecausines contains some exceeding 
curious tombs. Passing through a country pos- 
sessing no remarkable faatures^ the station o' 
Manage b next reached. The Junction of MoM 
and Manage lines takee place here. On tiia 
left lies Seneffe, remarkable as the spot where 
William in., Prince of Orange, In 1S74, fought 
the old warrior, Cond§, on which ocoaaloB 
27,000 were killed. There b at tiie latlsr 
place a magnificent diitean, endoeed by Ai«-' 
markable park. Leaving Manage the soenety 
becomes more varied : interesting works ef art 
are numerous. Traversing the tunnd of Godtiw 
vUle, the railroad takes a course, the wi mUBgi 
and tnmfaigs of vrfaidi it b impossible to il eee gl he 
— ^now turning to the left, now to the rl^fat— now 
passing hills, now opening a passage through 
them. After passing the stations of Gony-lcB- 
Pi^ton and Pont4L- CeUes^ the road next traverses 
a cutting, the sides of which exhibit byen of 
earth and flint strangdy superposed. On tsf^ 
preaching Gossdles the landscape becomes mof* 
Intere8tingandvaried,thecuttingsareofinmienfS - 
depth; as the slope towers^ the country hooeni 
seen on either side are numerous and eJafSnW 
The station of Gossdles b at the dbtanoe ef • 



carrying on an active commerce with FMnoe. j mile and a half from tlie town^ tA "^^GSisatt. «ik 
It does not absolutely contain any tiling wtortii t onmSbon QQBCf«|» ^(Sda \r«3«^9QMK. *\?p»>«* ^y_ 
nodoe. TUf kf tb§ ihmUtt ftatiea of ^M \ tute w^«Mkmi imiMki <A ws»&ra\ v>«^*i^^ 



48 



CHABXJEROF— «AMBRB AKD MSUBB RAILWAY BBAirGHl& 



rSonte 8 



9,000. On quittiiis Goflnliea, the nOroad t»- 
Irenes a rich and beautiful country, cutting 
through sevnral beds of coal, and paasbng Sumeti^ 
situated in a most picturesque manner at the 
base of a little hiU ; the Abbey of Sart-Ie-Sf oine 
Is here situated. It contains a ridi altar-piece of 
vood sculpture. Passing the village of Hour, at 
which there is a station, the road traTerses a ridi 
open covmtry, in the midst of which are the 
manufocturing districts of Charleroi, and shortly 
readies the station of Marchiennes-au-Pont, the 
Junction with the Sambre and Mouse Raflway, 26 
miles of which are now open. Other brandies 
will be opened on the Ist of July, 1863, and the 
main line is to be completed on 1st May, 1864 (see 
Introduction, p. zv). Here the Brusselsand Char- 
lend canals join the Mouse. The river Sambre Is 
here met with, and between this statkm and Namur 
the railroad crosses it no less than sixteen times. 
The railroad here crosses it on a beautiful bridge. 
On the right, after leaving Blardiiennes^ the 
gigantic establishments of Moncean Fonteine are 
teen; at the distance of a league and a half from 
these, the ruins of the Abbey of Alne are situated 
—the traveller should visit these. Crossing the 
river Heure, which effects its confluence imme- 
diately after with the Sambre, the coal works of 
Lodelmsart are passed on the left, and the town 
of La Providence,— here the manufiusture of iron 
is carried on to a large extent. The stranger 
should not think of quitting the neighbourhood 
without visiting some of these Cydopean caves, 
which cast into shade the Vulcanian smiths of 
Etna, and all the mythological fictions of the 
andents. Approaching Charlerol, the fortifica- 
tions of which are seen through the trees by 
which they are shaded, the station situated in 
the lower town and near the place is arrived at. 

Charlerol.— Inn t 

H6td Pays Bas, the b9it 

Has not more than 6,000 inhabitants^ and Is of 
U«tie consequence, the fortifications having 
prevented its becoming what it otherwise would 
have been— one of the most flourishing towns 
on the Continent; it has a population of 
80,600, and presents a scene of extraordinary 
AOtivity. The Charlerol coal-field is the most 
mmen^re in Belgium, giving employment to 
J4Mff miaen^ mad jrieUiag annuaUy 8»000,000 



tonsof ooal; the glass tnde Is also eanled «■ to 
a yery great extent, and those numerous and es- 
tensive faron works^ whidi derive their snppUaiQf 
iron ore from the Sambre and Mouse distriot- 
one of the most picturesque and intorestinf 
countries In Bdginm, but, with the exception Ot 
a few eminent geologists, totally nnkno«B to 
travellers. It extends about forty miles sootfi of 
Charlerol to the f>endi Ardennes. The Sambn 
and Mouse Raflway, whidi commences at Mar- 
chieDoaes-an-Pont, about a mile from Charkro^ 

Iwm shortly tr a verse it In its entire lengtl^ 
^ terminating on the Mrase, near Givet. 

Ths Sakbrb ahd Mxusb Railway BRAiroBfs. 
The Sambre and Mouse present attrac ti v e 8to> 



tnres to the lovers of angling, the trout of Xbm 



former and craw-fish of the latter bdng abmidant 
\ and exodlent. Bridges span both the rivers here. 
At two leagues^ distance from Charlerol, In tht 
idcturesque valley of the Sambre, are the miiis 
of the Abbaye d'Alne, the most andent monas- 
tery perhaps in Europe, built in the year 666. 

The railway crosses the river Sambre many 
times between Charlerol and Namur. Thescenery 
is most charming. At Charlerol the line brandiet 
off, and leads to Walcourt, and having ofbhoots 
to Laneffe, Morialm6, and Florenne. 

Shortiy after leaving the station, the Tillage of 
Couillet, renowned for its metaUurgic estaUish- 
ments, Is passed ; then Montigny- sur-Sambre, the 
factories of whidi give employment to many 
workmen. Crossing the Sambre, the devated 
chimneys of Chatelineau are observable, at the 
station of which town the traveller shortly 
arrives. The town is cdebrated for its earthen, 
ware, which Is hi high estimation. Leaving 
Chatelinean the traveller passes the beautifrd 
chateau of Beaulieu, the gardens of which are 
much spoiled by the railway, and shortly arrives 
at the station of Fardennes, which has been 
Uterally cut in two by the railway passing through 
It. Fardennes is a pretty village of 1,600 inha- 
bitants. Passhig through a country rich, varied, 
andfinteresting, the station of Tamines is next 
arrived at, a village of Utile importance,— then 
that of Auvelais, a pretty village, possessing no- 
thing to interest the tourist. Crossing the 
Sambre for the seventh time since leaving Biar- 
chiennes, immediately after leavhig Auvelais, the 
railroad enters vast cuttings, made in enormooa 
haxvks oC acV^va, cnoVom^i ^^s^ioaed.. 



> 4 



U- I 



i 



«] 



FLORBVinB— NAMUB. 



49 



fte hamlet of Grand Boi^ and again croadngthe 

Sambre^ deq;> cuttings are entered, on emerging 

HhNnMtddh are seen ridily dad meadows, through 

irldch meanders the Samhrot Oa the right is 

aeen the steeple of the choP^ of Ham-sur- 

Sambre, and on the left that of Lemmepe. The 

next station of Moustier is then seen, and further 

' on to the left Momsmerit ; then a cutting, then 

ic s •^ain the Sambre, and always the Sambre, which 

- .' recedes^ approaching and undulating like a 

serpent, unfblds amorously the green hills, then 

■' retires, coquette as she is, to wander about in a 

thousand circuits, where the eye in vain strives 

to follow her. 

' The railroad next passes through alovely wood, 

•nrrounded by forests ; on the right, as far as the 

^ye can reach, rise a succession of hills, entirely 

brooded, which lower insensibly, and terminate 

In fh>nt of us by a slight elevation, in which is 

rituated the village of Franceres ; on the left are 

•' the park and cfaiiteau of Loye, and looking across 

^ the viaduct the traveller may perceive the mag- 

Icent bidldings of the Abbey of Floreffe, 

I A4vuated midway on the side of a hill higher than 

all those we have hitherto seen, and bristled here 

A there with the points of rocks, which cut off 

* oy thdr acidity the vigorous v^etation which 

surrounds them on all sides. 

Floreffe station gives evidence, in the immense 

■- "^hurch and the beauty of its abbey, of the im- 

^ance andently attached to it by the Counts 

onur. It has 1,600 inhabitants. Crossing 

the tiambre three times after leaving Floreffe, the 

-^ilroad passes Malenne, a celebrated abbey, the 

itifUl steeple of which, erected in 1651, is seen 

/een two hills towards the right. Passing 

I through a country somewhat varied and inte- 

j1 iPesting, the Sambre, in following the course of 

'. \* railroad describes innumerable curves and 

lings^ and crossing a fine viaduct, reaches the 

ition in Namur, situated outside the Porte-de- 

[ Ver, which leads to Louvain. 

fVamar.— Hotds : 
.Bdtel d'Harscamp, highly recommended. 
€^ ^dtel d'Holland, good. 

^he capital of the province of Namur, at the 

lux of the Sambre and the Meus^ a well-buUt 

Ity, with wide and dean streets. It con- 

a population of 22,300, who are chiefly 

iployed in the cutlery business. It is defended 

a dtadel, built on the summit of a craggy 

H 



rode Here are extensive manufSictures of fire- 
arms, swords, knive^ sdssors, and other artides 
of iron, copper, and brass. Quantities of Ifcatker, 
paper, thread, and tobacco are also prepared here. 
Namur has often changed masters, and is noted 
for the many sieges which it has sustained. It is 
the strongest fortress in Belgium. Namur, owing 
to the destruction inflicted on its monuments and 
structures during its numerous sieges, bombard* 
ments, &c., has now but few otjects of interest 
to enlist the traveller's notice. Among the fisw 
still remaining is the 

CcOhedrai of St. Aubkif an degant modem 
buUding, in the Corinthian order, having a 
portico supported by twenty-five columns (the 
capitals of which are daboratdy ornamented) 
and surmounted by statues in white marUe. 
In the interior wiU be observed some fin* 
paintings by Bubens, and some remarkaU* 
monuments. On the right of the altar is a momu 
ment to the Bishop FisanL Here also Is the 
mausoleum of Don John of Austria, the victor of 
Lepanto. The pulpit erected in 1848, from a plan 
by M. Geerts, deserves notice. The figures soi^ 
tured on it are very fine. 

The Church of St. Loup, or the Jesuit's Cfanrcli 
is also a fine specimen of the ornamental style of 
architecture. The roof is constructed of the stone 
of St. Hubert, brought from the Ardennes, in the 
neighbourhood of Blarche ; and the wood of the 
confessionals is curiously and elaborately carred. 

The Ch&teau, remarkable for its siege of 
two years, from 1266 to 1268. The Qomanu 
ment House was formerly the Bishop's Falaosb 
built in 1725, by an Englishman named Stride- 
land, who was bishop of the diocese. The 
Citadd and Bampairts, built on one of the 
mountfldns overhanging the town, command 
varied and extensive views over the fertile 
country watered by the Mense. The town also 
contains several hospitals (the principal of which 
is that founded by the Countess of Harsdiamp^ 
in 1812, for aged destitute persons of both sexes) 
a Public Library, an Athenseum, and a Theatre. 
In the ndghbourhood of the town are ti«Tnf««^ 
quarries of free and lime stone, and also of blapk 
red, and grey marble, suso^tible of a very high 
polish. 

In addition to working these quarries the in- 
habitants of Namur are employed im the manu- 
facture of cutiery, fire.«ecQ&% MfVfiKst^ ^fiooA^' 



«0 



KAICUB TO UBGB. 



LBontel' 



btda, ffles, laoe, serge, wooUeii 8tuff% crodkerj~ 

ware, and all artidea of iron, coppw, bronze, 

■teel, and tin. 
The tan-yards, which were formerly an im- 

portent branch of industry at Namnr, are mudb 
diminished in importance; but there are stOl 
MTeral remaining— ^is also numerous breweries^ 
and one glass house. The pit-coal called honiUe 
is found in the mountain on wbi<^ the castle 
is buHt. Tobacco and endive are cultivated in 
the neigUbourhood of the town. 

The streets of Namur are wide and well built, 
principally of blue stone, veined with red and 
Mack. The river abounds in excellent fiah, par- 
ticularly craw-flsli, whidb are exported to every 
part of the Idngdom. The singular sham-flghts, 
fonnerly carried on between the two parties of 
joong townsmen, mounted on stilts, were once a 
fkrourite diversion of the inhabitants, and to 
which, it is said, the brewers of Namur owe the 
exemption from exdae, granted by Duke An>ert. 
They are now almost discontinued, but are stiU 
occuaionally to be seen during the fairs, the prin- 
cipal of which commences on the 2nd July, and 
lasts fifteen days; the others are but one day 
each, viz.. the second Monday in April, the 
second Saturday in July, and the first Saturday 
fai Octof^er. Within three miles of Namur is the 
curious Hermitage of Montagne, cut in the solid 
rock, by a brotherhood of Carmelite Friars; and 
about two miles to the north, in the arrondisse- 
meat of Phillippeville, is the village of Vedrin, in 
which is a valuable lead mine, discovered in 1619. 
It is now worked by a powerfiil steam engine. 
Ttiis neighbourhood also affords a white sand, 



After the donUe of the hill of Pied-noir, 

generally known by the name of the Wi 

mount, the railway, leaving to the right the : 

flcations of the town, St. Nicholases gate, and! 

neighlMuring plantaticms, passes l^the 

the Grands-Malades (an old leper hoqpltalX; 

the foot of steep hills of whidb tlie rocky 

conceal from' sight the village of Boag«% 

which they are crowned. At this point 

see onbedded in a rods the picturesque 

mitage of St. Hubert. The railway now 

preaches the Meus^ and does not leaw 

until its arrival at Liege. It croasee the 

valley running past some rocks of ^^««HTiif 

flection, which dose the prospect on the left 1 

and vanish towards a duster of trees wfaicb I 

the white buildhigs at the sign of the La 

dtt-pr6. The landscape is dosed on the 

bank, which the old road follows, by the 

of Erpent, at the top of which winds the roadl 

Luxembourg; lower down, by the hill 01 

ing the gloomy Tron des Larrons, a fSunoua oavi^ ' 

once so dreaded by travellers ; and lastly, by tlit 

heights of Lives, the sides of whidi are oovered 

with blocks of stone, presenting the ft^ntaattn 

appearance of an old manor house, with tti 

massive entranoe flanked by two mouldeiinf 

towerfi* 

This first TilleyJUM besuties too numeroug tm 
va to attempt to aescribe. It is followed by 1 
in rapid succession, equally grand and 
Every attempt to do so would appear oold 
colourless compared with the impression ] 
by the view, under the unceasing play of light 1 
shade, by the splendid river, q>rinkled here 
there with verdant and graceful islands, a ! 



used in making glass. The walk to this village, 

as well as that to La Plante, which is about the | and azure path travelled over, hour after 

by heavily laden tradiag boats, slender 
with sounding and foaming paddles^ and 



same distance, is delightfully picturesque. 
ROUTB 9. 

IVamnr to Liege.— Namtts (see Route 8). 

The ndlway station is situated near the burying- 
ground between the exterior fortifications and 
the hill of Pied-noir, in the space which extends 
flrom the Brussels gate to Ihe Iron gate, formerly 
Sampuris gate, one of the few remains of the last 
wall built roimd the town in the beghming of the 
fifteenth century. 

Leaving the station the railway passes under 

the hin of Pied-noir, and that of Coquelet, between 

x^ftftafr Msceada the bigb road leading to Louvain. 



white plumes of smoke. 

Beyond Tete-du-Pr^ the railway {mmmb by ' 
village of Beez, and soon reaches the 
rocks of Marche les Dames, i^ose gr^ldi 1 
border the road, and proudly raise their wild 1 
crags in the air. 

Marche les Dames Station — The castle 
the road side is an erection of the present cent 
by the owner of some ironworks, it now belc 
to the Prince Aroiberg. The village la of : 
construction, and contains a pretty goo j numbW 
of houses and forges. 



Boute 9] 



MABOnV IMS DAMBft— flOLAIONSAUX— NAXECHB— ANOEHNtf. 



61 



The TiDage owes the first part of its name to 
hs dtnation on the confines of the ancient dis- 
trict of Namur (Marchf frontier limit), and the 
Utter part, refer to the foundation of the Abbey, 
wfaidi still attracts a number of visitors to 
Marche-le8-I>ames. An affecting tradition con- 
nects its origin witn the first crusade. When in 
the reign of Albert III. the Namur crusaders set 
out for the Holy Land, such of thehr wives as were 
imable to follow them, assembled in the rustic 
and lonely valley, of which the industry now 
established there has not entirely destroyed the 
(duurms; they raised a modest chapel, in which, 
praying for the deliverance of the Holy Sepuldire, 
they waited for the return of their husbands. 
But out of the many warriors i^o had been to 
seek for glory on the burning plains of Palestine, 
Tery few, indeed, ever regained the green hiDs of 
thdr native land. When the crusaders who had 
escaped death returned to the banks of the Meuse, 
desolation reigned in the Valley of Notre Dame 
due Vivier, as it was then called. Most of those 
wives learned that they vrere widows, and resolved 
to end their days in the retreat whidb they had 
chosen, and young girls, whom the war had 
made fktherless, joined them. An abbey was 
founded there, which, in three centuries after- 
wards, adopted the rule of St. Bernard. 

Opposite here, on the right bank of the river, 
is the chUtean of Brumagne, in a shady park; 
and on the left bank, at a small distance, is the 
ftunace of Hadniau. A littie Airther on, as we 
enter the village of Namdche, against the extreme 
point of a rocky chasm, we see a modem littie 
ehi^wl, almost buried behind the emlMiikment of 
theraUway. It is dedicated to BLRoch, and has^ 
above its door, the following cbanognuij t.. 

•'■▲In xoOkToUs aTb aLoIan Jm 1UT7Z Da Gnxs 

rAioIm." 

This church was erected at the cessation of the 
eholera in 1833, which ravaged Namdche with 
great violence. 

Above NamSche, on the opposite bank, on the 
4ope of ahigh hill, and firom the midst of a dark 
plantation of fir trees, appears, with its whitish 
walls and vast dateroo^ the lordly residence of 
Moisnii. Lower down, and occupying the bottom 
of the val^y, appear the gigantic rocks of Samp- 
■on, opposing a seemhigly irresistible baxricr to 
the riv»; on the highest block are tb» ndna of 
Hit osfttia of Sampaon. 



Namechs Station.— Beyond Namdcbe, • short 
distance firom the village, the extreme point of 
an elevation which skirts the ndlway presents 
the exact image of a grotesque human figure. 
The artist, in drawing it, has not made the least 
alteration, nor the slightest addition. He has 
merely copied the fantastic prrflle which ofliBGred 
itself to his view, and whidb vanished tmm his 
sight, when he only met with a capricious assem- 
blage of shi^ess stones which the rallwaj out* 
tings have exposed to view. 

SoLAiovKADX Statiouis a smsllviDagedepeBd- 
ing onthovillageof V^xin. Amidst the buildiogs^ 
whose redish waUs contrast with the grey tints 
the of overhanging rocks, appears a lead mann- 
fiftctory. The village on the opposite bank^ that 
reflects itself on the waters of the Meuse^ is no 
other than Sdayn, idtuated in the oentro of n 
basin, whose collective prospect presents one of 
the most agreeable sights on the line betwoen 
Namur and Huy. 

The railway, after bdng for a pretty oonsldor- 
able time contined between rocks and the rivo^ 
crosses a first tunnel, two hundred and thirty-Ava 
metres long, pierced through the rook, and leading 
at once to the beautiftil and extensive badn of 
.Indennes. In the first place, on the right of tho 
railway, a charming castle, in the style of tho 
fifteenth century, reflects forth on the bhio ardi 
of heaven the elegant architecture of its battle- 
ments and turrets. Itisthecastleof SefiUai^andt 
though lately erected, it appears ss if the borons 
of the country had held thehr court for ages 
within its feudal prechicts. The Roman toweVf 
which appears on the left, belongs to the drardi 
cf SeiUes. In the private diapel of the ancient 
Lords is a tomb, a real work of art, sacrod to 
BQchael de Warisonix and his wife Jeanne d« 
Crehen. 

ANDBmvBs Station. — ^An important town on tho 
right bank of the river. Abridgeisnowoonstmot* 
ing for uniting the two banks^ and ensuring to tho 
town an the advantages whidi the raflway affords* 
The population is 6,000, of which a Isrge nmnbsr 
Is employed fai the piHI>er mills, pottery worki^ 
and iron mines, which the town and its vidniliy 
possess. Andennes is indebted to the oelebnted 
Cookerill for the establishment of a vast paper 
manafkotory, which is now no longer fhA «nSe% 
ono these tlM^ vAnc^^^fc^Afitia^^ «B!^^»st&M^ 



52 



HUT— THC BBIDOB^ BBASB EASDI— CITADBL. 



[Bootet 



Andomes and Bmm-OHa the railway, pofring 
ffaroofl^ the prorinoe of Li^ge^ croMee the Tillage 
of JftTa, renowned for its orcfaarda and vineyardfl^ 
idddi are the mort prodncure in the country. 

On the right bank, the hiHa, which had receded 
sa if to allow the vUlagea of Gives and Ben to 
extend fai the plain, agidn draw nearer to the 
rirer, and on the airy top of the rocks are seen 
the imposing mins of the castle of Besnfort. 

On the left tMuok, near Hny, the church, buCt 
on the hill, the slope of which stops the railway, 
is that of Statte^ one of the seren suburbs of 
the town« Just before crossing the Mehaigne 
which serred aa a line of defence at the dose 
of the 17th century against tlie armies sent to 
raise the siege of Namur, and before entering 
the tonnd, which ends at the station of Hay-~ 
^uite at the end of the charming landsci^ie, 
fbnned by the lieuse and the liills, partly green 
and partly barren, which enclose and command 
it— <me disoorers the vast bastions of the citadel, 
suspended like an eagle's nest on the brow of a 

Hut Station, half way between Namur and 
Li^ge, has, f^om its eitnation as well as its impor- 
tance, been selected for the central station of this 
Une. Nothing ca nbe more striking than the pros- 
pect which rises, as it were, to the view, when, after 
the subterraneous darkness of the long tunnel of 
Statte, one finds one's-eelf suddenly under the 
bine vault, reflected by the Mouse, between the 
steep heights of the left bank, all covered with 
vineyards, and the woody hills on the right bank, 
under the shelter of which the town lies, and 
over which peer, amidst the houses which they 
command, the lofty rock, crowned by the citadel, 
the Gothic Collegiate Chturch, under the invoca- 
tion of Notre Dame, and the tapering •pirv of its 
church, dedicated to St. Peter. 

Huy is divided by the Mouse into two parts, one 
OB the right bank, in Condros, the other in Hes- 
baye. The town is so confined between the hills 
that overhang it, that the sti*eets appear crushed 
by them. Under the government of the Prince 
Bishop of Li6ge it contained only 5,000 inhabi- 
tants, but could boast of 15 churches and a con- 
siderable number of abbeys and convents. The 
mina of the gpreatest part of the religious build- 
ings, a few m'^numents entirely preserved, and a 
Qnantitj of curioua constructions of a more or 
dhtant epoob, will long afford a pleuUful 



sapi4y of intorestfaig stndlea to the r o s or diea «f 
the ai^qoarian and the pencil of the artlat. It 
yon question an inhabitant of the ooontry on 
the wtmders of Hny, he will at once reply tik Ua 
peculiar dial^ Kpontia, U rondia, U hmtifUm 
the bridge over the Mense, the rose of the GoL 
legiate Church, and the fountain of the GraaA 
Fhuse. 

The Bridge was built fai 1294» and cost 6^8M 
Uvres. The ardies, seven in nnmber, are 188 
metrea above the level of the bed of the MeoMk 
The fiur-fiuned rose of the Collegiate Chmvh 
adorns the interior fi^ade of the building^ fht 
finest monument of the second pointed atjle te 
Bdginm. 

The Brau Baste ef the fountain on the OnM 
Hace is ornamented with curiously wiurked Uttlt 
figures, presumed to be satirical aUndona to 
tain conventa in the neighbourhood. 

The CUadd was built fai 18174n the 
occupied by the old castl^ destroyed hj 
Dutch in 1717. It commands at the aaoa 
the town and the courses of the Meoae and 
H<^oux— the latter a small rapid river whidi 
crosses the right bank quarter of the town, and 
fftUs into the river at the very foot of the ro<^ 
crowned by the bastions of the fortress. 

We should be guilty of a great oversight did 
we not invite the tourist to spend a few houra ia 
rambling through the deep and narrow vaUeiy^ 
watered by the limpid waters of the HoyOux. Its 
rapid course gives impulse to a number of nuoni- 
factories, whose presence adds to the piotaresqne- 
nesa of the landscape. From Huy to Baraa^ 
where the vaU^, widening for a moment, brings 
to view the old manor-house, now transfcmned 
into a farm-house, to which its old turret gives a 
martial rather than a rural aspect; then fironi- 
Barse to Modave, whose castle, blending th«> grey 
tints of its towers and walls with those of the 
craggy sides of the rode which support it, mwi^ 
to form with it but one gigantic edifice. Hoy Is 
essentially an industrious town. By meaaa of its 
port on the Mouse it carries on a considerable 
trade in com, and the wine, which alone in all 
Belgium it produces in suffident quantity to be 
worth mentioning, forms the object of a com- 
merce which is becoming more important every 
day. From the station the railway, in its direc- 
tion towards Li^ge, regains, by a considerable 
curve, the bank of the Mouse. Here one enjoya 





■** ThsB*llw»jCtMitoBOuil*«o» 



Koate 91 



AMAT-— BNOia. 



IS 



an eztensiTe proepeet, comprising the vhole town . Ake black laoe en the amre ot tlie shy, a windmOl 



with the splmicUd bridge vhiob oocupies the 
middle of it, and the rock of Fort, which over, 
hangs it, and whose greyish mass detaches itself 
on the Terdant gromid of the surrounding heights. 
The long chain which crowns the right barrier is 
suddenly interrupted by the steep rock that shel- 
ters the town, and in front of which the fertile 
basin unfolds itself, in which, in the first place, 
appears the pretty riDage of Tihange. 

The railway, after coming near the old road 
from Namur to Liege, which fr^m the right bank 
has passed to the left, runs by the blackened 
buildings of a zinc manufkotory, which clouds of 
dust and smoke envelope in a constant fog. It 
crosses the tunnel of Loyable^ cut in the rocky 
height which on that side bounds the valley of 
Boy, and arrives in a vast basin, to which the 
green carpet of the meadows, the varied mosaic 
work of cultivated land, and the shade of the 
suceeeding orchards and tuftr of trees, give a 
most rural aspect. The village of Ampsin, seen 
on the left, with its church, the steeple of which 
shews on the greyish ground of a calcareous 
rock, is crossed by the stream of Be r.de. At the 
right of the railway, on tbe banks of the Mouse, 
rides the Castle of Ampsin, consisting of three 
buildings, the most extersive of which is flanlied 
bv a square tower, surmounted by a Belvedere. 
It is built in the water, and is entirely isolated, 
and communicates with the inner coiul by a large 
bridge. Opposite the Castle of Ampsin is the 
Castle of Neuvillc, a superb construction in the 
modem style, consisthig of a double building 
with two wings, terminated by two pavilions, the 
dome- shaped roof of which is surmounted by two 
lanterns. The banks of the river are embellished 
by the gardens of both residences. 

A as AT Station is a league beyond Ampsin, and 
Is the first intermediate station between Huy and 
Liege. The station, built along a park, enclosing a 
handsome country-house, presents the must de- 
lightful aspect. Tiie village lies at the foot of the 
hills which tend to draw n^tr the Mouse. The 
Gothic collegiate, with its three idsles, presents a 
eonsiderable building to the view. Bey<md the 
collegiate a steep rock serves as a pedestal, as it 
were, to a small shvu ch dedicated to St. Catherine, 
hut commonly known by the name of St. Pompey . 



r.ut commonly imown oy ine name of bt. rompey. I kvqaa %toXi!OTiV*««*»'^'*^^'^^^ ^►»^'— 
Atthelo/tieat top of the neighbouring heightB, and \ |&«u&^ t^Tv^ibn t^^V^. *^'=««^'*^*'*''^^^ 
biMrmuue bwob trees, whoee dark brandiM ap^ott \ tioB» * m«X lw««»8tt^» ^teoasftwk 



merrily turns its aaOSf exposed to all the winds of 
heaven. It is the only whidmill to be seen on 
the line, and looks like a forlorn sentry of andent 
indnstry, in the confines of a valley where modem 
mdustry rules with absolute sway. An exoeDent 
kind of plum is prodttoed there^ whidi, wtMO. 
dr'ed, is supplied to trade. The vine is onlll- 
vated with success : the Amay wine is the beat in 
the country. 

A short distance b^ond Amay the ndtiray, 
leaving the bashi where it deviated from the 
Meusa, agaki approadies the river, going tiie (dd 
highway, which is crossed near Ampshi, and 
which it meets onoe more to the left of the naiw 
row bank, bordered by a long ohsdn of formidaUe 
rocks of various tints. Itneztcroeseethevilhige 
of Fldne, at the extremity of which ai^pears tbe 
celebrated abbey, the site of whidiis undoubtedly 
one of the most remaikable in the Journey. 

On the right bank betwem ths river and tilt 
hills, undulating on the horizon, one peroelvea 
the village of Ombret, then the eastie and burgh 
of Hermalle, of which the triple oentiwl building, 
with the two towers over the eastern fagade^ and 
the two square pavilions erected before the gar- 
den, forms an ensemble by no means destitute of 
grandeur. 

The rocks by the side of the railway continue 
to appear as far as la Mallieue, a small village* 
whose thatched houses, picturesquely grouped at 
the foot of the heights, contrast, in their rastio 
and ruinous aspect, with the reoent constmctlonB 
of the neighbouring zinc manufactory. Tlie 
line next follows a huge embankment, whidi rune 
along the river nearly as &r as the works of tiie 
Nouvclle Montague. This important sino esMth- 
lishmoi^ of which the vast work-shops extend 
along the Mouse, fiu>es on the oppoeite bank a 
few slate-roofed hridL buildings, forming a depen- 
dency of the village of Clermont; As it draws 
near the Nouvelle Montagne, the railway onoe 
more crosses the old road, pasting to the right of 
the zinc works, whilst the line itself, passing to 
the left, deviates from the river by a curve traced 
between two embankments, whidb are too high 
to allow us a sight of the village of Engis and 
the neighbouring ^IsjaJtati^sRA. 



M 



CASTLE OF OBOKnEB-'nLUEUB— FUEKAUUb 



CBontad 



tfam of the Tine. Cn the road to Wuftnte is i 
a handsome oonntry seat, buflt onlj thirty years 
ago. At the foot of a dialky rock, wbidb com- 
mands the rirer on the right bank, one can perodye 
abuiiding, known by the name of the Chftteau of 
EngihouL 

To the rfllage of Engis sacceeds the territory 
of the Anns. A break in the hilly chain, at 
whose foot are fertile valleys, by the side of which 
the railway passes, discloses of a sudden, at the 
top ofa cragjy rode, the ancient castle of Aigre- 

mont. 

A litae beyond Aigremont one can see, nearly 
800 feet above the bank, the castle of Chokier, 
majesticall/ built on a steep rock, resembling 
.a revonsed pyramid in shape. The princ^ 
building, reconstructed in the modem taste, stands 
on a very extensive terrace. The bastions in 
feont of it, and the brick turret which peers 
gracefully and proudly over the vast layers of the 
enclosing wall, seem to be the remains of the 
.ondent castle. 

Leaving Chokier the railway goes past some 
dusty lime-kHns, which have given the neigh- 
bouring hamlet the name of Chaffour, dose by 
.the station of Fl&nalle. 

From this station begins the branch line whidi 
extends on the left bank as far as the Cruillemins, 
<Hr Government Station at Liege. It first crosses 
the vUlage of Flcmalle-Haute, and then passes 
ovOT the territory of the village of Fl^malle- 
Orande. The ground towards the north is high, 
and intersected by hills ; towards the south is one 
on which the vine flourishes. 

jBBOfAPB Station appears a little further on, op- 
posike the Seraing estsbltshment, situated on the 
right bank. The iron bridge, 120 metres long, 
erosses the Meuse at one of its widest parts. Its 
vast horizontal floor, adorned on each side by a 
handsome iron railing, is suspended by four enor- 
mous «**<«■ to the top of four cast-iron cylindrical 
<dMU8ks, Jdd upon the two waterier pUes of a large 
ftone ard), which prolongs the bridge over each 



From Jemmapeto Tilleur the ground is almost 
ontirdy covered with houses, amongst which are 
■ome foy pretty onef. 

TxiXKim Sution is a village of small import- 
•aoe. The hills which the railway has run by 
dnoe It leftFtemalle seem to with^w and disap- 
la tbe teaiitiftJ iNudn through which the 



Bne oxtendsfhovinage of Bdwfn rlseB. Beyond 
Sdenin the hil]8,.wfaidi had drawn nearer to llie 
river, again withdrawto form a smiling and Dnrtila 
valley, whidi they surround as with a drde^ leav- 
ing open only the side l)oundedby theMeaM,md 
i^ere the sight firedy wanders on the woody 
heights on the right bank. After passing tiuroogh 
the Val-Benott, which touches the town of Iji%fl^ 
the left bank brandi arrives at the Gnillemlnai 
where it joins the State Railway in the stallaa 
common to both. 

Leaving the FlSmalle station, where the rallwi^ 
Ufturcates, the trunk line crossfaig the old high- 
way, whidi continues to follow the left baal^ 
advances towards the Mease, which it crosses on 
a stone bridge, one hundred and sixty metres lon^ 
and eight and a half broad. The vaU^ whSdi 
the railway enters on reaching the right bank ^ 
formeri^ called the Add of Moors. 

The view that one discovers immediately ; 
crossing the Meuse is the most extensive^ tlie 
most varied, and the most fasdnating, perbi^M^ 
in the whole trip. The landscape, which is not 
a Uttie onbdUshed by the degantly oonstracted 
bridge, is commanded, on the right bank by the 
woody hUl bounding the Vall^ St. Lambert, and 
at the top of which the high diimneys of the Ivoi 
coal works appear, rising amidst the trees on the 
left bank, by the steep rock surmounted by the 
castle of Chokier, with its heavy bastions and 
graceftd turrets ; whilst opposite appear the two 
ch&teaux of Flemalle-Haute and Flemalle-Grande^ 
and on both sides of the river to the Airthest 
horizon, innumerable forges usher in the wealthy 
basin of the Liege country, producing iron and 
coal in equal abundance. 

Beyond the Valley St. Lambert the railway 
crosses the Marihaye coal works, and passing by 
the side of the Esperance furnaces, reaches 

SsRAuro Station, which was formerly a ddight- 
ful retreat, bounded by an amphitheatre of hills, 
crowned «iith lofty trees. The prince-bishops of 
Liege possessed a chateau there. 

The andent episcopal palace now serves as a 
porch to the industrial establishment, founded in 
1817 by John Cockcrill. 'This model estaMLnh- 
meat is the most considerable and perfect existing 
on the continent, for the construction of nuwihin- 
ery and large steam engines. Originally half of 
itbdongedto ELtaig William I. of the Netherlands. 
Afl^ the revolution of 1830, John CockerU 



BonteS] 



SEBAXNO— <C0GEEBILL'8 WOBXS— LeKBEBN. 



55 



purduued Ui royal eo-pvoprieton portioii, and 
fhiuibeoame sole proprietor of the estaUidunent. 
It is now worked by a company formed in 1842, 
after the death of its founder, whidi took place 
at Warsaw, where he stopped daring one of the 
distant ezcorsions which liis intelligent actiTity 
induced Um to make every now and then, with 
the Tiew of stimulating the industry of nations, 
and opening to them new sources of wealth and 
proqierity. The area occupied by the Seraing 
works amounts to one hundred and forty-two 
acres. They contidn rich coal-pits, furnaces, an 
iron manufikotory, and a number of workshops, 
three of wliicbi, one for trailers, another for looo- 
motiTes, and the third for steam engines, properly 
ao called, are of immense extent. All the appli- 
cations of iron are made in the same establish, 
ment. It enters in the state of ore, and comes 
forth transformed into mighty engines. Twenty- 
dz steam engines, equivalent to nine hundred and 
nineteen horse power, are unceasingly adding to 
the labour of a whole population of workmen, 
lometlmes amounting to four thousand. 

Jn the evening, when the shades descend, tbe 
■peotade which presents itself to the traveller's 
▼iew, on the way from beraing to Ougr6e, is 
Indescribably mi^nificent. Glimmering lights 
tremble in the air, on the tops of the chimneys, 
rising like as many light-houses on the banks of 
the Mouse; raging flames reflecting all the coioors 
of the rainbow, whirlwinds of scarlet vapour, 
■pangled with white sparks, burst on every side 
flrom the Aimaces and workshops, like so many 
eraten in eruption. This vast blase does not 
canse the slightest alarm to the surrounding 
villages, which it illuminates with its reflection ; 
the inhabitants of the country are well aware 
that it is the breath of industry that excites it, 
and rc|)oice at its intensity and duration, ss a 
certain guarantee of labour and p<>oq>erity. 

OvQUxm is a village containing a population of 
1,600 inhabitants ; it is sitaated on the left of the 
railway. On the right are two country houses 
surrounded with plantations. The tunnel near 
the station passes through ihe establishment of 
. fiimaces, on a length of one hundred and thirty- 
flve metres. 

Scarcely has the line passed through the ton- 
nel when one discovers at the left Uie Castie of 
Ougr£e. It oonsbts of a square building, flanked 
by four toneti^ covered in a pavilion styles and | 



sormounted by several lanterns. The railway 
next passes for more than a league through fertile 
fields, ordiards, and meadows, confined between 
the river and a chain of green hills, the last slopes 
of whidi are crowned with thick shades, which 
form part of the wood of Quinquempols. 

Just before leaving the last hills, which are on 
the sides of the line, the traveller sees unfolded 
before hhn the beantiful valley in which the 
town of Li6ge is situated. On nearing Li6ge the 
train crosses the Government Line firom LI6ge 
to Cologne, with which it has a junction in four 
directions. A mile and a-half beyond this point 
the train arrives at Longdoz Station. 

LxsGi (Bonte 18.) 

Route 10. 

Ghent to Jintwerp.— Distance^ 82 EngUdi 
miles. 

Ghbrt (see Route 2). 

Parties entering Belgium at Ostend, and who, 
proceeding to Gbent,wish to vinit Antwerp^ might 
make a very expeditious tour bv proceeding direct 
firom Ghent, and they will arrive at Antwetp in 
about one hour and a half. 

The railway, quitting Ghent, proceeds throagh 
a populous and well-cultivated country, csUed the 
Pays de Waes. To the north of the road we see 
the castie of Loochristy, once a hunting seat for 
the Bishops of Ghent. The first station met with 
is Biimelde; and leaving it, we arrive qnioidly at 

LoKBttEir— Inns : 

Hotel De U Poste. Hotel Des Qustre Sceanx. 

A considerable manufac'ur'ng town, on the 
direct railway firom Ghent to Antwerp, contain- 
ing 17,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the river 
Durme, by which it communicates with tbe 
Scheldt. The market place and the quaj are 
remarkable. The church, the oonstmotion of 
wbidb dates ss fisr back as the 17th century, fa 
adorned with an elevated tower, and contains ona 
of the finest pulpits in Belgium, magniflosntity 
carved, and representing, in a group of ten 
figures, Jesus among the Doctors. Tbwre are 
also some fine pictures : one eqiedally should be 
examined, the Circumcision, by Verae^en. A 
fine picture, representing Abigail going to meet 
Darid, by Otto Venius, is the property of a baker 
of the town, and ought to be seen bv every visitor. 

Oonvayanoei— -Raiway treina ^ ksiinrae^^Gblw 



56 



TETE DE FLANDRE — AUTWKOP — DUFFELi 



[Route 11 



Bt. Nicholas.— Inns : 

Hotel Det Quttro Soeanz. 

Hotol Pomme d'Or. 

The chief town of a district of East Flanders, 
on the road flrom Ghent to Antwerp. A flourish- 
log trade !■ carried on in all sorts of stuffs, which 
•re here manufjMStured. The population numbers 
upwards of 18,000. The prlndpai church con- 
tains some fine pictures, and the Town Ilall is a 
splendid qtedmen of art, by SoK'yers. 

OenTeyances.-Bailway to Antwerp and Ghent. 
See Bradthavci^i Continental Chtide 

Leaving this last station we pass the station of 
Nieukerke and Beveren, and arrive at 

ZwTHDRECHT, a pretty little village, containing 
2^000 inhabitants. Its cburdi, an ancient edifice, 
constructed in 1242, contains a choir and some 
paintings worthy of the visitors notice. 

Tktc de Flanorb. — On the left bank fachiir 
Axitwarp lies the Terminus, which forms an out- 
work to the dty. Ni^Mleon intended to found a 
new city here. A steam ferry boat plies across 
the Scheldt between the Tdte de Flandre and 
Antwerp, every quarter of an hour, conveying 
passengers, &c, to the Ghent Railway Station 
The Belgian Government are now constructing, 
on this side the Scheldt, a Camp RetraneM^ whi;h 
Is to be the head quarters of Government, and of 
the Belgian army — ^In the event of an inva^on ! 
And this camp is well worth visiting. It is 
ntnated opposite the Citadel of Antwerp. 

Antwxbp.— See Route 4. 

Route 11. 

Jintwerp to Bmssels* 

Ahtwxbp.'— Route 4. — ^Leaving Antwerp, we 
peas on the right the village of Berchem, a com- 
mtme of 2,800 inhabitants. Here were the head 
quarters of the Frendi during the siege of 
Antwerpi in 1882. It was before this place that 
Count Frederic de Merode was mortally wounded 
In 1830, during the retreat of the Dutch troops. 
About here we perceive many beautiful country 
reridences, princ^itally belongiog to the mer- 
chants of Antwerp. 

ViEux-Dnu, a little hamlet to the right, so 
called from a Fftgan idol adored here, before the 
establLihment of Chiistianity. Quitting here the 
line proceeds by the banks of the Nethe. To 
the right we see Edeghem, a village with 1,063 
inhaWtaaU; end a little fhrther on to the loft we 



see, pairing up in the distanee, Hove, and soob 
after arrive at 

CoNTiOH, a small place, with 8,64f inbabitauts. 
The antiqtiated castles of Groeningen Hof, de 
Tanghoff, and d'Altiaa here, are worth a visit. 

Duffel is situated upon the Methe, traversed 
by the route from Bfalines to Lierre (a chief town 
of a canton in the district of fiialinosi, situated 
at the confluence of the great and little Nethe^ 
surrotmded by ramparts planted with tiees, and 
containing a population of 13,1S3 inliabltants). 
Duffel lias a population of 8,910 people, and its 
trade in linen is the chief stq^ of its induatiy. 
Froceeding through a country diverdfied by 
agreeable scenery of wood and meadow, we 
arrive at Malines. 

Maunxs to Bbussels.— See Route 1. 

Route 12. 

ADtwerp to Tamhont.— Distance, about 
24 miles — This route will doubtless present flea- 
tures of attraction to the poUticsl economist and 
philanthropist, as affording to the former de/Uet9 
evidence as to the effect of xeproductive pmper 
labour carried out on a large scheme, whibtit 
exhibits to the latter the operation of industrial 
laws in reference to the indigent labuor of the 
country. A diligence takes the traveller on to 
Tumhout. The Journey is effected through an 
extensive district, abounding in heath fields. 
Before reaching Westmael we see the Cisteitclan 
Convent, or Abbey of La Trappe. The Lulling 
presents nothing remarkable in its architectural 
design, but a visit to its interior will repay the 
visitor. Tbemonksof this order are remarkable 
for the strict rigiiM under which they llv^ aa 
well as for the active and industrial pursuits 
which tbey constantly follow. The brutbere 
never speak : they rise at two o'clock a.m , and 
continue in prayer until six o'clock, when tbey 
proceed to their daily avocations of field labour 
and other pursuits. They take bat one meal a 
day, and retire to bed at eight o'clock p.m. The 
house is governed by an abbot, prior, and sub- 
prior. The brothers number about sixty, and 
have reclaimed a barren heath of 400 acres, con. 
verthig it into a fruitful garden. The visitor is 
shewn through the house by one of the brothers, 
and in the garden he will see the cemetery, in 
whidi a grave is always open to receive him who 
dies next. They are buried without coffins. A 



Route 12] 



WBSIMAEIi— VBffTBBIXK)— LA MABOB. 



67 



■imflar «tabliahin»t to this ezisti In Ldoester. 
■hire, and another called Mount Meiler^j, in the 
eonnty of Waterford, Ireland. 

WnniAEL.— Wortel, the pauper colony estab- 
lished by the Dutch goremment in 1822. is seven 
iwiUw north-east of tills place. It contains 460 
inhabitants. In reference to this place we find 
ttie following in the Commercial Statistics :— *' It 
was placed at its foundation under the direction 
of Captain Van den Bosh, brother to the general 
of that name. The company at Wortel con- 
tracted to maintafn 1,000 paupers for 86 florins 
each per annum. Other paupers were after 
taken. Another panpor settlement was under, 
taken by one person, near Bmges,who also agreed 
with goremment to maintain 1,000 paupers for 
35 florins per annum ; but whether firom the 
■eparatUm of Belgium firom Holland, or whether 
tiie panper colonists, chiefly idle yagrants sent 
firom Brussels, being of an inferior dass: certain, 
howerer, it is, that the pauper settlements of 
Belgium are tax behind the colony of Froniksen 
in prosperity.'* Merxplas, a convict station, is 
situated four mfles beyond this. 

TuENHouT.— (Inn : Porte d*Or — good and 
reasonable). The yillage of Gheel, containing a 
population of 7,500 inhabitants, is twelve miles 
south of this place, and is situated in the centre 
of the Campine, a desolate ui cor. The chief 
occupation of the greater part ot the inhabitants 
Is taking care of the lunatic > soot here firom all 
parts of Belgium. At Ob<)el there is a pretty 
diurdh, dedicated to St. Dympna, an Irish lady 
and the daughter of an Irish king, who suffered 
at the hands of her father, for reftising to Ure 
in the world. The altar in this church is orna- 
mented with some curious and elaborate carving. 
The altar-pieoe and tabemade will repay a visit. 

Vestsrloo is e'ght miles firom here, where it 
crosses the Nethe; and ten miles fhrther, after 
crossing the Deynze, we see 

AsBSHOT, which has a churdi worth visiting. 
Lonvain Is twelve miles firom this place. 

ROXTTE 13. 

Mamar to TrevM (by Luxembourg) — 
Distance, 121} English miles. Diligence, daUy, 
In tvrenty hours. The road is an excellent and 
agreeable one* 

VrviEE L'Agkxav and EiiFnnrBs, two mail 
places, are passed before onr arrival at ^ 

1 



La. Mabchb, where we find a wretdiad fam, 
CloclM d*Or. The town Uaelf Is pvetty and pio- 
toresque, and the capital of a rich com districti 
called the Famenne. Eight miles soutl^west is 
Bochfort, remarkable as a fortress, once aftroqg 
one, where Lafayette was taken prisoner and 
confined by the Austrians. 

The road on the right, leading to St. Hubert, 
Is beautiful in forest landscape. 

Leaving La Bfarche we pass through dianning 
scenery along the forest of St. Hubert. Tha 
reader of Shakspere will not fall to recognise 
here the Forest of Ardenne. Wonderful has 
been the fidthfiilness with whldi the woodland 
scenery has been depicted by him. 

Champlov, a few miles firom here, we cross 
the Ourthe, and reach 

Bastoqne, a villai^e with 9^000 inhabitants^ 
remarlcable for its old and interesting ohorcb. 
Roads to Li^ge, by the HouflRiJIse^ surmounted 
by the ruins of a castle, and to St. Hubert, bj 
Orlinoille branch off firom Bastogne, whoioe the 
direct road takes us to Marletagne, a place of 
no importance^ and thence^ through agreeaWa 
scenery, to 

AaLOH — (Inn : Hotel du Nord)— a Bnall plAOS^ 
with 5,000 hihabitants. the capital of the Bdglaa 
port of the province of Luxsmbourg, and snr. 
mised to be the Ordlanum of the ftomans. DOU 
gences from here to M ets, daily ; and to Floren. 
vUle, tb rough the beantiftil vaOoy of Semoi. 

At Stkmfurth we enter on the Dutch frontier 
firom Arlon, at which place the German languagt 
is^oken. 

LrxBUBOuao — (Inn: Hotd de Cologne)— It 
not less Angularly than picturesquelly situated, is 
the coital of the grand duchy of the same name^ 
and contains 12,000 inhabitants. Its dtredofy 
belongs to the Khig of Holland, by the treaty of 
1815, bemg given to that monaroh In lien of 
Nassau, to which he laid daim. The prinoely 
house to which Luxembourg gives a name has 
given five emperors to Germany, queens to Fraaosi 
and kings to several European states. The oa]j 
remarkable spot hi the town Is the (Totecoay, In 
the lower town, a broken flragment, and sole 
furviving memorial of the pakoe of Peter Bamest^ 
of lCansfeldt,the Spankh stadtholder. The town 
is so hemmed In by high ro<^ that, eomincfirom. 
the Bmssels sidA^ioa^ft ^<QftiV<<>v ^^B9Ksfll^<A.>a. 

i 



5d 



LinLEHBOVBG — THR lOEI/— M0N8 TO MAKAOB. 



[Route li 



apper and lower towns, the former btbig eon- 
neotod onlj on tho wwt wKh the nelghboitring 
oourtrj. It tikm a prec^loe-Uke deioent 200 
feet deep en the other rides. Its TaUey, whidi 
wfll weO repay a walk. Is enclosed by bold and 
rugged rodks of lof^ dfaneaslons, and watered by 
the stream of Alzette and Petersbnm. The 
lower town is foU of aottre indostry, and has a 
great number of mills and dyeworks. A project- 
ing rook, known as Le Bone, dirides it into two 
quarterly which oommnnicate with the npper 
town by means of sigsag streets and flights of 
steps. The draw-bridges of the {dcturesque for- 
tifications of the rale of the Alsette strike one as 
being suftpendfd in the air, and entering the town 
from the German side, their being crossed will 
api>oar a matter altogether impossible. The for- 
tiOeations were suocwsiTely added to and strength- 
ened by vavious towers, nutil it was considered to 
be the strongest defeoee in Europe, after Gib- 
raltar. It is now garrisoned by 6,000 Prussians, 
and held tor the Germanio ConfMoratton. The 
most remaricable part of its fortifloations Is Le 
Bone, which eommands the valley op and down. 
Strangers may see the interior b> permisrion from 
the oonmiandant, who, however, seldom grants 
the flivonr. Dilfgences to Remich, Mots, and 
Treves, daily. Horses are charged for at the rate 
of tliirty.five sousperpost, and the right of attach, 
ing a third horse lies with the postmaster. 

Quitting Luxembourg the diligence bears us 
on, rut Wing along a road, good but hilly, and 
not very meagre in agreeable scenery, to 

NEu>K&.A5wBaLEa, from whence we proceed 
onto 

GKKVEKMACHBRir, wherc the road arrives at the 
Moselle, and follows its left bank, through scenery 
of the most brilliant and attractive beauty, until 
our arrival at Treves. 

At Wasserbillio we cross the bridge spanning 
the Sure, and arrive at the Prusslui frontier and 
custom house, where the examination (of bag- 
gage, &c.). a severe but polite one, takes place. 

l%e Tgel, a curious Roman monument, is 
passed by the road a few miles from Treves. 
The village is a srpail one, and has, standing in 
i«smidst,amagniacent Roman structure, known 
OS the monument of Igel. It is a quadrangular 
obelisk, seventy feet high, ornamented with 
nscrlptions, carvings, engravings, &c., but so 
mutilMtedtu to render the discover j of its origin 



or designatloa all but faapoMMa. Many, IndMi^ 
have been tlM e^laoatkms glvesi of it, aa mM5 
probably, as the nnmber of antiqnariana, wha 
bronght aU thdr love in endeavours to daolpiw 
its hleroglyphies. Some claim ita dartinatiDB ai • 
commemorative act of Constantlne^a aiasrhjii 
with Helena, others would asoribe Its eraotioiits 
record the bfarOi of CaUgrnla, and othera ooiMlte 
it an allusion to die apotheosto of some <"»r— " 
fkmily. However,speonlation seemato be margsA 
in the plain fact, that it was ereotad by tm 
brothers ealled Secunduina. for a twofold purpsHb 
that is, to commemorate a marriage of their rii* 
ter, and be a mourning memorial for tiro memoiy 
of their deceased relatives. Its s^le atartHund' 
ture wutild denote it as belonging to the Conslaa- 
tine era. The Secunduir, thefamilv bj whomil 
was erected, it would appear, were a nohXe and 
powerAil fanily, who occupied several poaCa noAm 
the Romaugovemment,some of \dii<di are denoiad 
by the heralcMc devioes on the moiniment. 

Coifz, a small village, deriving its name froa 
Constantlne^ who had a summer palaoe h«re. 

Tjuves Route 26. 

Route 14. 
Hlons to manage. 

Mo5s (Route 7).— In its direction towards 
Blanage, the railway starts from the Govemnocat 
station, where it joins the line firoiu Bnuaeb t» 
the frontier of France. 

NiMT is the first station; it is a small villafi 
containing a popuI»tion of 2,0K> aouls. It if 
remarkable for an earthen ware manufao'.ory, that 
at one Ume employed three hundred men iriiiA 
number has fallen below fifty sioee the Introdne- 
tion of English potteries. The ware made at 
Nimy is composed of clay and sllex, and is sna* 
ceplible of receiving the most graceful formi^ and 
has the advantage, from its cheapness . of beiBf 
within the reach of all classes of purchassn. 
Nimy, through which the hi^h road firom Mdni 
to Brussels passes, is much frequented during tha 
fine season, and is considered a pleasant reaidoioa. 

Obouro, the second intermediate station, is 
]| league fromMons, at the confluence of the 
Haiiie and Aubechuelle, surrounded bj pastara- 
land and meadows, from whi «h it derives its chisf 
richer. It contains a populatiou of 4,000 inhabi- 
tants. The woody line vh' ch bounds tiie horiatA 
on the left, beyond Obourg, conoeals the old 
caaWe ot 'SLocaL\\.^ otwa Qt^« xGAiXtvoA,- dahlia in 



Route ISi] HAVRE— BSACQUfiairUS—BOIS-DU-LUG— LA LOUVIEKE— MANAGE. 



59 



»*irV— *i It is boat on a hill, alopod by a mag- 
■ifieent park,ffprea4ing from grove to gro?e and 
iairatolawn, with iucomparable grace. 

jBatrm Is aitua ed in tiie ricinity of Obourg, 
and possesses a Gothic castle, built in 1603. It li 
se«i to the right of the railway, in the midst of a 
park. Tue wood of Havre and the oastie of the 
Duke of Oroy, are favourite country walks with 
the inhabitants of Mens. 

BBacQuaoniBs is a mere dependency of Strepy, 
a village of the csnton of Roecolx, situated ttree 
leagues east of Moos. Near Bracquegnies the 
ndlway, after repeatedly paastng the Haine, 
crosses it for the last time. From tills station 
onwards the soil, less levd, Is out by several hills, 
between which lie plaios more or less confined. 
On the ri^t and left of the road are numerous 
coal works, estabUahed on a eoal soil connected 
with the baiin of the east of Mens. 

Bois DV-Luo station touehesthegreatcoalworks 
of that same, consisting of five pits, from wh^ch 
the coal is extracted by powerful steann engines. 
The coal works of La-Paix, on the territory of 
the parish of St. Vaast forms the sixth Inter, 
mediate station. These coal pits present a most 
picturesque aspect, situated in a woody hollow, 
penetrated in a graceful curve bj a road, which 
disappears in the shade. 

La Lodvierb, the last stop between Moos and 
Manage, is the principal station on the lioe. It 
is one of the moat import«nt coal grants on the 
territory of 8t Va«st. There the new banks have 
been established along the branch of the <f%tm | 
from Charlerei to Brussels. At this station the 
branch line towards L'Olive and Bdscoup begins. 
Between La Lonviere and L'Olive there are five 
stations, Housaean, Beanme, La Vexrio'e. St. 
Adolphe. and Mariemont. This branch touches 
the richcetooal grants iotiie centre. The tourist 
who intends to judge of the peculiar aspect given 
to this diHtrict by the estaoUshments of every 
description, in which industry is caniei on in so 
large a scale, wiU visit this vast workshop, which 
•aaploys in a varied and unoeasing production, an 
innumerable quantUy of faitelligent and in lefiui. 
gable labourers. The country besides offers more 
than one site worthy of attention. One view in 
particular, of the most charming diaracter, is 
that which one discovers at Bfariomont, where the 
■ngn'fioent residence of Bi. Warooqne contrasts 



luxury with the highly picturesque ruins of the 
residence of the Arehdukes of Austria. 

Leaving the La Louvlere station, the trunk line . 
orosses the branches of the Charleroi canal, on a 
fixed and a swing bridge. Numerous industrial 
establishments continue to appear on both sides 
of the railway, which passes through a well culti- 
vated country, and some orchards, whove aipeet 
relieves the monotony of the landscape. Finally, 
on the high road from Nivelles to Mens, the rail, 
way enters the station at Manage, which it shares 
in common with the government railway that 
Joins it. 

BIaxasv, a few years ago, was an fauignifiouit 
hamlet, forming a part of the village of Leneflb. 
The place is now daily rishig in importaitoe sfaice 
the building of the Government and Namur and 
Liege railway stations there. 

Route 15. 



ClMurl«rol to MoiiafancBetween Char. 

leroi and Marcbiennes-aa.Pont,tliis railway tuma 
off from the Brussels and Namur line, axkf* passes 
through a district rich in mhxerab, and enjoying 
an extensive trade in shic an i iron, coke and eoaL 
It connects the valloys of the Bambre and Mouse 
a few miles above Givet, and likswise at Char, 
leroi and Mezidres. The distance is 2S English 
miles. Passbig a few stationp, of no importauce 
we arrive at 

Berzbb, where a Inranoh railway lea^is by Thy. 
le-Chiteau to Laneffe station. 

FSATRB Station, a dilUgenee in connection 
with the trains from here to Philippeville daily. 

Bouts 16. 



l¥amar to Dinant aod Glvet.— Thb 
BiBuss^Though the Mouse above Namur, Is 
less visited, it is not less interestingly attractive 
there than below it. Escarpments of limestone^ 
magnificent in their lofty outUne an<* bold prw. 
Jecting heights, hem hi the river as it flows gently 
along its pearly bed, the entire landscape fbrmfng 
a iout ensemble retembUng the valee <rf Derby- 
shire. At Dbiant the road crosses the river Ly a 
stone bridge, and at Yvoir, fbur miles bel >w, we 
see the intermittent spring, rising and shaking 
r^golarly, every seven minutes. Paashig several 
picturesque villas axul c^baiu^wQcs. ^^ ^^vktifSn^^ 



. . „«^^„«wat„„ picturesque villas aaA c:kai(A«N>s. 'ti^ ^«»<ii&^%^ 

In the movemeat and splendour of its modem ' about Uire« m!a«a^»€Uk^ \iVaa»!^>:si*Tviia^ v»\>i** 



60 



DEfiUrr— NOTRB DAJCB— OITSr. 



LRontelT 



CMlle of ioflradie, taken and destroyed, in 1429, 
l>7 Bishop Jean de Hejnsberg. 

To ttie left, on the sununit of a rode, lialf a mile 
or 10 below Dinant, is seen the rained castle of 
Bonrignes. A tlirilling tale of female heroism 
is connected with the history of this castle, and 
tradition does not &il to perpetuate and hand it 
down to each succeeding generation. The 
French, under the Duke de Meyers, besieged this 
castle in 1654, and three beautiful women, with 
their huslMmds, took reftige In the tower of 
Creyecoeur, designing to aid the garrison by their 
■ocoour and presence. The bedeged were all 
slain save the three females, who, rather than 
submit to the brutality of their conquerors, threw 
themselres from the top of the batUements, and 
were dashed into atoms on the rodis beneath. 

Dinant.— Hotels : 
Hotel de la Tete d'Or. 
Hotel de la Poste, the best 

The ancient history of Dinant is lost in remote 
antiquity. It is situated in a romantio positloii 
at the base of limestone cUfh, with the dtadel 
and church crowning their summits. 

The Bouvignese and people of Dinant were 
rivals in the manufacture of copper, and from this 
arose a hostile animus on both ddes whidi led to 
the most cruel and sanguinary encounters. The 
two people fought constantiy against eadi other. 
The castles of Crevecoeur and Montorgueil were 
built, the former by the Bouvignes, and the latter 
by the Dinantese, for the purpose of mutual 
annoyance. Dinant was besieged by Fhflip the 
Good, with an army of 30,000 men. On being 
summoned to surrender, they htmg the mes> 
sengers sent with the terms of capitulation, which 
so enraged the duke that he, on the town being 
forced to surrender, gave it up to pillage for three 
days, and then burned it to the ground, ordering 
eight hundred of the hihabitants, bound two and 
two, to be thrown into the Meuse. The town was 
rebuilt by his son, Charles the Bold, but was again 
pillaged and sacked, in 1654, by the French, under 
the Duke de Nevers, who, history tells us, was 
proToked to this cruel act by the message of the 
townspeople to his summons to surrender. They 
replied that if the King of France and the duke 
fell into their hands they would roast thehr hearts 
and livers for breakfast. The treaty of Byswick 
gave Dinant to the Prince Bishop. Attacked and 
takeo diaing the first French revolution, it be- 



came the diief town of a Frendi department, sod 
so remained until 1813 » when it was retaken hf 
the allies, and definitively Joined to the royalty of 
the Netherlands, together with the ancient & 
trict of Li6ge. 

The churdi of Notre-Dame is a massive stme- 

-tore, of a crudform abwpe, buUt in the Gotiilo 

style. It aontains nothing particularly interesting^ 

and is only remarkable for the style of its ardiU 

tecture. 

Excursions from Dinant to the Grotto of Ham 
Su Lesse, Castie of Montaig^ Chateau de Wab* 
sins, and to Chateaux, a groiq> of hovds. 

Above Dinant the road leads us through a 
spedes of natural portal, abruptly terminated b/ 
a waH of rock shot out from, the pree^itoai 
difb on the left, and on the right by the Bochs 
i Bayard, an isolated mass of rock; dose by here 
quarries of black marble are to be found; also 
immediately above is the pretty little town of 
Anseremme. The valley is very picturesque^ and 
well deserves to be explored. At this qni^ the 
Lesse falls into the Meuse. 

The road now begins to ascend, and at thres 
miles above Dinant is the Chitean of Freyer, 
situated at the base of luxiiriantly-dothed Ulla, 
on the left bank of the river. It is a country seatof 
the Duchess of Beaufort, and has within its 
grounds a beautiful grotto. Oppodte here tlis 
scenery is very picturesque. Forms and outlinesof 
the most singular caste and diaracter are shadow- 
ed forth by the broken masses of limestone^ rishif 
like so many giants out of the Meuse. At tu u 
Flamignoul the scenery partakes of quite a roman- 
tic aspect. Passing by Heer we are attracted by 
a red marble quarry; and as we approach the top 
of the hill our road is enlivened by duurte and 
beautiful scenery, untU we ascend the top^ from 
« hich we have a magnificent view of 

GiTST— (Inns: Le Cygne; le Mont d'Or)— a 
small but prettfly-dtuated town, on the ri^ 
bank of the Meuse, opposite Charlemont, with 
which it is connected by a bridge. Both ^aoei 
belong to France. Givet has a population of aboot 
4,000, and is a fortress. The fortifications of 
Charlemont stand ota the left bank, on a rook 
of limestone. 

ROUTB 17 

Landen to St. Trond and H AMeK^ 

Lanobn is chief town of a canton in tbedHrtriflt 
of Huy, containing a population of 700 




of tha turn HUn^ utg*. 



Route 18] 



BRU8SRLS TO COLOONB — CHATEAU OF LAEKEN. 



61 



Leai^g Landen, the ridlroad passes Atten- 
hoven, a commune of 700 inhabitants, and soon 
after leaives the province of Li6ge, and enters 
tliat of Limbiu-g, and shortly arrives at the sta- 
tion of Velm, a conunune of Limburg, in the 
district of Hasselt, crossed by a Roman causeway. 
The population is 700, Leaving on the right the 
small commune of Halmael, the train soon reaches 
the station of St. Trond. 

St. TsoifD is the chief place of a canton of the 
district of Hasselt, in the province of Limburgt 
situated upon the Cicindria. There are eleven 
churches, the principal situated in a vast square, 
in which is likewise the Town Hall, worthy of 
noitice. The manufacture of lace is the principal 
occtipation of the inhabitants, the population 
behig 8,000. Leaving St. Trond, we pass the un- 
important stations, Cobtkhbosh and Alkkk, and 
arrives at 

Uassklt. 

Route 18 

Brussels to Cologne, by Mallnes, 
LoavHln, Liege, and Aix-ia-Chapelle. 

Brusskls (Route 7). — The railway quitting 
the station, situated at the extremity of the 
Rue Ncuve, takes a northerly direction, and 
enters the faubourgs of Laeken and Schaerbeck. 
Traversing the Sonne, it follows the new road 
from Schaerbeok to Laeken, and rcsjoins the old 
line of railway leading to the station, d'AUSe 
Verte. To the right, on a height, we see the 
church of Schaerbeck, a commune of 2,200 in. 
habitants, forming the continuation of the Fau- 
bourgs of Brussels. To the left we see the Royal 
Palace of Laeken, on a height at the extreme end 
of a large prairie, which descends to the banks of 
the Willebroeck canal. 

The chateau of Laeken dates no fiirther back 
than 1782. It was built after a design of the 
Archduke Charles Albert, governor of the 
Netherlands, and is erected in a charming posi. 
tion. The park surrounding it contains an 
orangery, a theatre, pavilions, and beautiflil trees. 
It was in this ch&teau that Napoleon signed the 
celebrated declaration of war against Russia. 
The palace is now the property of the crown, and 
favourite residence of the Royal Family. The 
plain seen to the left, in appearance like a carpet 
of verdure, is Mont Plaisir, hi which were held 
borse'racee. Oppotite is the canal of Willebroeck, 



also called the Brussels canal. Tt was commenced 
in 1550, to facilitate the communication between 
Brussels and Antwerp. It Is bordered by the 
A116e Vei'te, and goes in a right line to Vilvorde. 
To the light, we see the village of Ever, sur- ' 
rounded with beautiful country-houses, and 
contahiing a population of 1,700 souls. To the 
left, in the trees, are the villages of Over-Heom' 
beek and Neder-Heembeek. At this point of 
the route, the Senne, which winds through the 
plain, is seen. 

Before arriving at Vilvorde, our attention ia 
arrested by the large building with the multitude 
of windows ; it is the central house of oorredion, 
after the same plan as the model prisons in 
England and those of the United States. This 
prison is capable of containing 2,000 prisoners. 
The old ch&teau, upon the site of which this 
prison was built in 1776, served as a prison, but 
only for state prisoners. Madame Deshouliers 
was a prisoner of state there in 1657. The road, 
describhig a cbde from here, arrives at Vilvorde. 

Vilvorde (Route 2, page 15). 

Quitting this station, the railroad traverses a 
beautiful and well cultivated country, pasdng the 
little Tillage of Sempst, remarkable for its ancient 
church, we cross tlie Senne, and shortly after 
leave the province of Brabant and enter that of 
Antwerp, and perceive the gigantic tower and 
churches of lalines. The raOw^r firom Ghent, 
Courtray, Bruges, and Ostend,to Malines, is teen 
to the left, describing a grand curve to unite itself 
to the one we travel by. Crossing the Louvain 
canal by a moveable bridge, we arrive at 

Malines (Route 1). 

At a short distance f^om the station in Malines 
the railroad leaves the province of Antwerp, and 
enters that of Brabant. The village of Mnysar 
and Haver, and the commune of Ryneman, the 
steeple of which is seen on the left at a ^stance, 
behig passed, the station of Haecht Is arrived at. 
It is the chief place of a commune of Lovvain, 
and contains 1,900 inhabitants. Westpcilaer is 
the next station arrived at; tt Is celebrated for 
its magnificent park, to which crowds of visitors 
resort during the season. ** It presents," says a 
tourist, "a sfaigular mixture of mythologieal 
statues, thickets, Chinese bridges, grottos, and 
Greek temples." On tearing WestpehMr tha 
dharming village ciC 6b5^^Q<(^a\^^suaKA^'<^1^vS«^^"^ 

i 



62 



LonyADr—PBODucnoir»— HOTEL db villb. 



[BottteiS 



HfOtVbj of notice. AdTandng towards Loayain 
the railroad runs along the side of a canal, the 
edge of which is prettily planted with three rows 
of poplars. Crossing the river Dyle, then the 
road from Lourain to Aersdiot, and passing the 
conunones of Kessel and Loo, and Wilsile, the 
station outside the gate of Diest is arrived at. 

ItfOavaIn— (Hotel do Suede, the best). 

The capital of the arrondissement of the 
Mune name, a large, Irreg^ularly-built town, ot 
a circular form, situated on the Dyle, which 
passes through it. We enter the town by a gilt 
iron railing, or gate. The foundation of Louvain 
has been attributed to Csesar; but nothing cer- 
tain is known of the history of the place until the 
year 888, when the Emperor Arnold, hi order to 
protect the country from the predatory incursions 
of the Normans, built in the place of Louvain a 
eastle, which has been long improperly called 
Gh&teau CIsar (Gsesar's Castle). The Dukes of 
Brabant resided many years in the castle, and 
Henry, the first Count of Louvain, was assassin- 
Ated there in 1&08. It was rebuilt at the expense 
of the magistrates in 1375, and was the winter 
residence of Edward ILL of England and his 
Queen, in 1486. At a later period it was selected 
as the place of abode of the illustrious Charles 
V. during his youth. The ruins of the castle 
are still remaining. Till the year 1792, when the 
revolutionary troops, under General Kleber, 
made themselves masters of the town, Louvain 
could boast of never having been taken by an 
enemy, though it had been repeatedly besieged 
during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth 

oenturies. 

In the beginning of the fourteenth century 
Louvain was a large, populous, lyd rich city, in 
which the manufacture of woollen stuffs was so 
considerable, that In 1317 it reckoned 4,000 es- 
tablishments connected with the cloth trade 
alone, and contained 150,000 inhabitants. During 
the reign of Duke Wenceslas, however, and about 
the year 1870, a tumult arose in the town, hi 
consequence of the arbitrary punishment of a 
dtizen, after he had been Judicially acquitted of 
a petty theft of which he was accused. A number 
of doth manufacturers took part in this tumult, 
and on its suppression were banished from the 
town. These taigenious workmen retired to 
Bagland, dnwing after them many of their rela- 
MxoM and Meadt; and bo npldlj did the town 



decrease in population from tiiat period, that ia 
less than forty years Louvain presented all the 
appearances of a vast deserted dly. To remedy 
the evil, John, the fifth Duke of Brabant, 
founded, ha 1246, a university, whidi afterwards 
became one of the most celebrated in Enrope. 
It was suppressed by the French in 1793, and the 
building converted into an hoq>ital for invalids. 
It was, however, re-established, under the late 
government, in 1817, in a large building of great 
simplidty, erected at the dose of the last oentoiy. 
There are 17 professors and about 600 stadentt. 
The library contains about 40,000 volumes, and 
the universi^ also possesses a botanical g^arden 
and a tolerably good museum of zoology and 
mineralogy. Strangers are struck with admira- 
tion on the first view of the immense edifice 
of the Halles— its vast and superb saloons^ 
devoted to the study of dvU law, physio, and 
theology. 

The prindpal productions of Louvain are 
woollen stu£b and dimities, with the various 
artides proceeding fi>om the salt-works, sugar 
refineries, manufactories of potash and stardn 
bottle works, window-glass manufactories, pot- 
teries, brandy and gin distilleries, and establish- 
ments for extracting oil from rape-seed and colsa. 
There are also a number of cotton-printing 
establishments and several printhig oflUces. 
The white beer of Louvafai is In great repute^ 
and exported to all parts of Belgium; besides 
which, another kind of malt liquor, called 
peterman, is the common table beer of the 
higher classes. Some idea may be formed of 
the trade in beer, when it is known that the 
town comprises upwards of forty brevreries^ 
producing, annually, above 200,000 banrelB of 
malt liquor. 

The H6td> de VtUe is, perhaps, the most per- 
fect specimen of its kind of Gothic architecture 
extant; and the innumerable carved figures 
which enrich the front exhibit indubitable 
traces, notwithstanding the ravages of time, of 
exquisite workmanship. It was built in 1439. In 
the council chamber are some paintings by Ver- 
haegen, and the Continence of Sdpio, by Luca 
Giordans; and in the Grand Saloon is a collec- 
tion comprising the Resurrection, by Rubens 
Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, by Crayer; and a por« 
trait of Lepsius, by Van Dyck. 
\ 1\a GoUvcdflraSl CKwrc^ oj Si. 'Pc»«r^^\Mi»]Jfal 




HuMga B^vBT, U 



r*f J 








Boate 18 1 



CATHBDEAL OF ST. PBXSBp-VOWBB OF JAK8BIIIU1. 



68 



#difioe^ WM bnilt tinder Count Lambert Baldorlo, 
hbout the year 1010, and was formerly aormounted 
1^ aspire of the extraordhiary height of 633 feet, 
oomaldered by the people of LouTain as the eighth 
wonder of the world; but, nnfortonately, this 
bold and Justly-admired q>ecimen of steeple 
building was levelled with the ground, by a 
violent storm of wind, in 1604. The interior of 
this church contains much to attract the atten- 
tion, particularly a fine allegorical sutiJect, repre- 
senting Faith, Hope, and Charity, by Grayer, 
which is in the Chiq>el of the Trinity, and the 
Holy Family, by Quentin Matsys, in that of St. 
Ann^ The iron screen, curiously wrought in 
one pleo^ by the same artist, before he had 
quitted the forge and anvil for the pallet, is much 
admhred. The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck, which 
adorns the altar of St. Julien, is remarkable for 
the artlstfs inti*oduction of a number of winged 
boys, who are stationed with a cup at the foot of 
the cross, to catch the blood of our Saviour. The 
Last Supper, and the Mar^dom of St. Erasmus, 
by Hemling, should also be noticed ; as well as the 
marble altars of the Chapels of the Sacrament 
and the Virgin Mary,— the latter of which was 
designed 1^ Bubens. The oak pulpit was brought 
to this church in 1807 from the suppressed Abbey 
of Ninoven, near Brussels. It is the work of 
Bergere, in V142, and may be considered as 
one of the finest specimens of carved wood in 
the world. The tabemade is an ezqnisitdy 
wrought piece of workmanship^ richly scn^ 
tared. The Conversion of St. Faol ooeiq^ 
the lower part, and round it are a number of 
figures of animals, intertwined with imitations of 
trunks and leaves of trees. In the choir is the 
mausoleum of Henry IV., Duke of Brabant, who 
died in 1236; and behhid it, in a small duH[>'^lf 
that of Bfargaret of Louvain, assassinated In 1226, 
patroness of servant girls; in connection with 
which there is a marvellous story told, somewhat 
as follows :— Being servant at an inn, the night 
previous to the day on which she and her master 
* and mistress had resolved to enter a convent, she 
went out to fetch some wine for some pilgrims 
who had arrived. During her absence these pil- 
grims murdered her master and mistress, and on 
her return they assailed her with the same inten- 
tion. Overpowered, after a long struggle, she 
was thrown into the Dyle, and, contrary to natural 
laws, her body floated upwards against the streaiQa 

K 



aonromided by ahalo of gioty, and amStting iweat 
and harmonious sounds. Henry, the first Dnka 
of Louvain, saw this wonderftil miracle; the 
rq>ort soon q>read, her l>ody was amhalmed, and 
a shrine erected fbr her honour ; and tbere^ to 
the admfration of the fldthfti], may the woodan 
pitcher in which she l^iched the wine to tiiis day 
be seen. The dmrches of St. Michael, St. Ab- 
thony, and St. Gertrude, are also worthy of 
notioa, as well as the new prison erected at ibm 
Diest Gate. The hall called Frascati'i should 
not be left nnvisited; it is remarkiAle at onoa 
for its great sixe, the taste displayed in its embd*- 
lishments, and the ingenious and commodloua 
manner in which it is distributed ; it aflTords suf- 
fident space for eighty sets of quadrilles; eig^t 
hundred persons may walk at their ease in the 
galleries and pourtours; while the boxes art 
capable of containing three hundred, and an 
equal number may be conveniently placed at tlia 
buffet or sideboard. 

The Tower of Jantenkttf fai whidi he is sop- 
posed to have written his great work on graoa 
and free-will, and the boose of Lepdus^ the 
artist, are also shewn to strangers. Louvain 
contains a tribunal de premidre instance, and 
another of commerce; it has also a subscrl^ 
tion library and a theatre. The walks formed 
in the andent m«)at around the town, espedaOy 
that called St George's Garden, are extremely 
pleasant; and the quarter named the Rivaga k 
handsomely built. The town, endrded by walli 
surmounted by turrets, presents a drcumferenoa 
of about six miles, in which Qiaoe, however, art 
comprised many gardens and orchards; it com- 
municates with Mechlin by a canal, formed in 
1760, along the banks of whidi is a post road, of 
two and three-quarter poets, or fifteen miles fak 
length, by which we Join the high road leading 
from Brussels to Antwerp and to Amsterdam, at 
Mechlin. The principal promenades are the 
avenues of trees, two miles in length, ranging 
with the canal outside the Aersdiot Gate, the 
new drde of boulevards, now in progress, by 
which it is intended to endose the old limits of 
the town, and the wallcs to the diftteau of Count 
rd'Aremberg, the Benedictine Abbey, and Sud- 
water, the seat of M. Plascharet. A fair of ten 
days, for all kinds of merchandise, at Louvain, it 
hdd ammaUy, beginning; thft^sna.^Qin^^aBi^'B^'^'"^* 



64 



IX>UVAOr TO UKOEf TIBLEMOVT, WABOOCB. 



[BoutelS 



bttants. It seems to b« a healthj pimoe, as it 
Appears, on the anthority of Dr. GrandevOle (toL 
L, p. 72), that the mortality as to the number of 
b*jrth9 is in tlie proportion of six to eight. 

LouTADi TO LiKOK — After leaTtog Louvainthe 
•14 Abbey of Parcq is passed on the right. The 
drardi and part of the buildings are still retained 
1^ the monks. On the left the communes of 
Corfaecky Loo, LoTeqJonl, and Beratersem, the 
jtation of Vertiyck is arrived at. Yertiyi^ a 
troall commune, of the district of Louvain, with a 
population of 600, possesses nothing peculiar. 
The commune of Cumptech, peculation 1,10€^ 
is seen. The railroad running alongside the road 
to Brussels reaches Tiiiemont, the station of 
ndiidi is outside the town. 

TiBLKMO!rr—(Inn: Le Flat d*Etain). The 
diief place of a canton of the district oi Lou- 
Tain, in the province uf Brabant, is situated 
oo the great Oette^ which crosses it. From 
Its size Tlrlemont was probably once very 
populous; the present peculation is about 8,000. 
The Church of St. Germain, built upon the sum- 
mit of an eminence overlooking the town, is of 
great interest to sdentiftc men. It belongs to 
the first period of Christian architecture. The 
tower is Roman, and must be mentioned as a 
model of that style. Its date is probably the 9th 
eentury. The town haH deserves a visit, as also 
the magnificent hospital of Tirlemont, and the 
barracks. The great square is remarkable for 
Its size, as it is the largest known. Stocking, 
flannel, and woollen stuff manufacturing, is car- 
ried on here. There is also a otmsiderable trade 
ttone in brewing. 

The country between Tirlemont and Tran^wi^ 
the next station, is varied and interesting,^to the 
antiquarian e^>ecially so, for there are still nume- 
rous traces of the Romans to be found, and many 
remains of ancient tombs. 

Landen (route 18) is tha comitry of Pepin of 
Laaden, founder of the race of Charlemagne. 
He died here in 640. Shortly after leaving Lan- 
den the railroad leaves the province of Liege^ 
and enters that of Limburg. Crossing a part of 
this province, it returns to that of Liege; and 
at the station of 

Rosouz, a small commune on the right, of 500 
^habitants, it leaves Li6ge again, and crossing 
the river Geer, h reaches the station of Wa- 



WABnaac is the chSef town of a distiiet oftfhi 
province of Li^; population, 1,400. 
is said to have been founded by the 
Guathier, in the 12th centmy. Tlie 
are now changed into pnbBe waOa; there is ato 
a fine square in the centre. Onthebanlaof Iha 
Gear the Castie of Longduunpa^ remarkable te 
the great extoit of its park, may be i 
ronme is famous for its ging er bre ad, 
the station one of the best 
roads is crossed bythe railroad. On 
Remioourt, a commune of 350 inhabitaartl^ Iha 
railroad is equal in elevation to the miwi—M- if 
the steeple at Antwerp. Creasing 
j Teme, the next statixm is arrived at; it is i 
I of Fexhe, a commune of the ^strict of Wa> 
I remme. It is called <*Fexhe with the li^ 
i steeple,** the Steele of the drardi by no 
! Justifying the i^pdlation. Peculation 9O0. 
ing several unimportant riHages, the road gra- 
dually rises as fsr as Ans, the statioii next It 
Liege. Save the remains of an anrient cMOk 
there is nothing of interest at Ana. It has 3^811 
inhabitants. 
On i^c'oi'^^'^ Li^ the traveller dMNdd to 



I .. . . 

i particular in watching the ascent of tiie 

I from the station at Ans to the stationary 

house on the summit of the hiU, and then pre* 

pare himself to behold, during the deacoit oaths 

inclined plane^ one of the most qdoidid 

ramie views in the worid, viidch will bmrst 

his sight with instantaneous grandeur. 

whole dty of Li^e^ with its cupola domes^ IM 

innumcraUe manufactories, and its palace^ es- 

tended over the valley» or plain— at the jnnetisa 

of the Meuse and Ourthe— is one of those rigMi 

never to be forgotten. The traveller, howetei^ 

; should Imger over the scene, and, if pojslMi^ iliif 

a day or two at 

Uee^—Hotels. 

Hotdde Suede,exoeedliig1ty goodin every riipnrf. 
Hotel tf Angleterre, old established and very good 
I Hotel de Bellevue, a first rate hooae. in good 

situation, and well conducted. 

Distance from Malines, £84 miles. 

Li^ge, the capital of the ancient princtpaHty of 
that name, which formeriy aic«rt«ined to tl»e 
Wes^balian circle of the German empire, is a 
large and fine city, lying in a fertile valley at tlie 
Josction of the Meuse with the Ourthe, tte 



Route 18] 



USQE — ^PALACB — HOTBL DB VILT JL 



95 



▼4ndre and tiie Meosa-Ambrorix. A prince of 
the andcdit Oanls is nid to hxte been the founder 
ot Li%e, which derlm its name from the Latin 
word leffiOf on accoout of a Roman legion having 
hecn defeated bj the Ebnre, or ancient inhabit 
iSBta of Li€ge^ during the stay of Julius Cserar 
laBelgiam. 

The prince-bishops of Li^ge were, at an early 
period, prelates of great power, though constant^ 
obUged to rerist the turbnleut insubordination of 
^0 oltisens. In 14$8, the Bishop of Li^e was 
murdered in his palace by the insurgent dtisens, 
and Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, his 
vrtadire and ally, instantly mardied to avenge 
hit death, and insisted on Louis XI, King of 
Vraace, who was then his guest, or rather 
prfeorer, at Perome, to prove the truth of his 
dcsiial of any partic^;>ation in, or encourage- 
ment of^ the rebellion; he did not hesitate to 
eomply, and, the united anniRS having carried 
tlM" plac* by aswnlt, set it on fire three times, 
an<< ai last hivned it almost to the ground. 
Freviouj to this hcrrlble catastrophe Liege con- 
teined 120,000 inhabitants. An interesting ac- 
ceont of this siege, and of the narrow escape 
cf the duke and the King of France from a 
plo* laid 1^ fix hundred cit<xen8» to surprise 
them in the house they inhabited, will be found 
inrhiUpdeCommes; and thore are (rf coarse few 
readers who are not familiar with the animated 
anl interesting deacr^ition of the murder of tho 
bf«hop. and bloody retri bu tion exacted by Charles, 
In Sir Walter Scott's celebrated romance of 
Quentin Durwaid, some of the most interesting 
scenM of whidi are laid ha Ulge. We may for 
a moment d ig r c a s , to remark that Qnentin Dur- 
ward is generaDy prised in Franoe^ above meet 
of the other prodcctfons of this illustrious author, 
in consequence of the admirable fidelity with 
whidi 1^ defects the diaracters of the leading 
historical personages, and the masterly truth 
aift^ vigour of the idcture he has given to the 
manners of fhe time. During the succeeding 
eentvries, Li€ge waa constantly the victim both 
of intestine commotions and fbrdgn invasions; 
but it oontinued under the dominion of the | 
Mshops, until its junction with the Frendi terri- 
tory fa& 1794. In 1814 it became part to the ! 
kingdom of the Metherluida. Under the govern- 
ment of the Mahopa, li^ enjoyed most extensive 
pdvilegas^ and waa under the antbority of a 



diarter, securing, in the amplest manner, the 
righto and privileges of the dtisens. 

The town paid no taxes or contribution towarde 
defraying the expenses of the state ; the Usbep 
had his episoopal revenue, and the fimctioiiariai 
their fees. About 700 men formed the army of 
I the prince, but the inhabitants, faitoxicated with 
i military glory, frequently engaged in foreign ser- 
vice, and diqylayed their courage in Austnei, 
Spain, Holland, Pmsda, and France, espedal^ 
in the foreign raiments employed by the laat 
named power. In 1788, Louis XYI. raised a fine 
regiment of infimtry in the bishop's territory, 
known by the name of the royal reg'-ment of 
Li^e; and before ito Junction with Franoi^ 
several of the adjoining states constantly kept up 
recruiting parties withki the town, tlie regiment 
of Walloon guards, in tb? pay of Spaip, having 
a complete establishment for the purpose of 
sending their numerous recruits, l^ detacfamenta^ 
into the Peninsula. The traflle in men was long 
very considerable, owing, in some measure, to the 
immunities aud privileges accorded to desertem 
and strangers from all countries, who sought 
rduge in Li^e. 

In traversing the town the river is divided Into 
a variety of branches, forming numerous <J*w<»i^ 
bordered by handsome quays, and communicating 
with each other by means of bridges very dis- 
similar in construction, the most consideraUe of 
which is called the bridge of arches, on account 
of the great height of those in the centre; it wae 
buflt in 1037 by Bishop Reginanld and oommanda 
a Ibie view. The houses are generally lofty. 

The Palace, partly destroyed by fire in 160^ 
and re-constructed five years afterwards l)y Bidiop 
Erard de la Biarck, is a fine structure of the 
Irvine order, comprising two square courts^ mar^ 
rounded 1^ galleries, under which are ran|;ee of 
shops. The second court contained the Female 
Prison. It is now used as a court of Justioe. 

The Ji9tel de VUU or Town Hall, situated hi 
the princ^Ml market, is a heavy building, erected 
during the last cent u ry. In this place are three 
andent fountains^ and several others are in dill 
ferent parto of the town; but except Ddconr'e 
statue of the Virgin (whidi adorns the fountaia 
of that name), in the Great Square^ there is no 
beauty to be percdved in thorn. The Pbtce de 
la CooaMie affords a8triki&(C,c«a^ <SlqS^ >ax\K«a«x 



66 



CATHEDRAL — ST. JAGQUEB— •'H'. MABTIK— dTADEL. 



[Bwite 18 



the right an Am OfauNli of flt. Martin and the | 
AblMj o€ St. Lawrence^ and a handsome raw of 
hooMa on an eminenoe; and en the left ^ 
tpfre of St. Paul and the ancient Chnrcfa of St. 
Croix. 

CotAedral— The Chnrdi of St. Panl is now 
ttie Oatbedrai; and by the ardiitectnral grandeur 
of its exterior, and the exquisite arrangement of 
its interior, ornaments, well deserves the distfaic- 
tion. The s^le is invariab^ that of the pointed 
ardi, with maaiiTe eofamma below, azid light 
plasters above. The dioir, whidi is closed by 
two elegant brass doors, is very beautiful ; and 
tiie great aitar is enridied by >ix solid sHver 
eandleeticks of itreat size. The painted windows 
and roof also deserve atientioii. The pulpit by 
Ueefk, is a remarkable item in the list of attrac- 
tions. The principal pictures in this church are 
the altar-piece, the Assumption, by Camvaggio; 
a Descent tnm the Croaib by aome attributed 
to Rubens, but mOTO probably by one of faispnpQs; 
a St. Jerome, by Lairease; and tiie Plague at 
MQan, with two other pictmea by Bertholet. 
There is also a fine sculptured figure of our 
Saviour, by Delcour. The an-ioit Cathedral 
Church of St. Lambert, founded in 712, and 
deatroyed during this period of revolutionary 
frenzy, was a vast and massive building, at once 
the omament and pride of the city, of wbidi 
hardly a restige now ranains. The dignitaries 
of the chapter were the Prince-bishop, the Grand 
Provost and Archdeacon of the City, the Great 
Dean, head of the chapter. The canccs, who 
were named trefonders, and were aQ nobles or 
licentiates in theology or law, enjoyed the right 
of nominating the bishop, who was a suffiragan 
of the archbishopric of Cologne. St. filateme 
was the first bishop of St. Lambert, and the 
Prince of M^n, late archbishop of Alalhies, the 
Bbietieth and last. The site of this building now 
forms a handsome place d'armes, or open square. 
In the 01 eh of St. John the Evangelist are 
several mo m pictures, and a number of images 
of the Virgin, dressed in the most gaudy and 
ludicrous manner. 

The Church of 5*. Jaeques, is deservedly con- 
ridered as the wonder of Li^e, faideed nothhig 
^f ^ f>e imagined so mi^estio as this immense 
strucixire, and yet at the same time it is elegant 
and light. "niiB masterpieoe of architecture 
giiauld bm »0eu by •twn traveUer. The organ 



and eiioir wSl deq^ inteNit ffntj ^ririter* II 
was built hi 1014. 

8t, ifor tb fu - TMa diuwih, ftmndedL lift M1^ 
destroyed in 1302, and rebuilt in 16^ la noted M 
the first dnndi fat wUtifa the AaliTal of the Hoilr 
Sacrament was oeldbratod. The finediarehef 
the CarmeUtea, formerly a ChSteau, dioald be 
seen; the firont, the moat remaricable in Li%e^ 
haa two Hons in stone, seaJ^jitnred bj the 
brated Deieonri. The other chnrdies 
of notlflO are St Jean, St. DanlB^ St. Groix^ 
tt.Bar'holomew. 

The UnioenUif co ntai n s a library of 
five thousand Tohnnes^ and several good eoHee* 
timis. The botanical garden contains a great 
number of rare plants; the system by whldk Ae 
ooDection is dasrified is that of Juarien. 

The Promenade de la Sauve Nidrelsan agree- 
able and picturesque walk. 

Citadel.-~,The traveDer should aacend to Aa 
summit in order to ei\}oy the magnificent 
rama of the town and suburfaa preaented to 1 
Outside the city still renudns St. WiDiam'a • 
rent, in whi his the tomb of Sir John Bfand^ivBifl^ 
the trareller. The other public buOdinga deaerv- 
ing mention are the Flaoe-anx-Cheveaiu^ ereeled 
In 1821, the barracks, the hospital, the cannoB> 
foundry, estibOtahed by Napoleon at an e^ensa 
of near^ half amillion sterling, and the ui i i v e ra U y, 
founded m 1817 by the late Khig of tl:e Nether- 
lands. The lecture-room is a handsome square 
stone building, with a portico supported by eiglit 
Ionic columns. There are about five hundred 
students educated, at a very moderate expense^ 
by seventeen professors, who are also obUged te 
give gratuitous oveodng lectures^ to the w o r kin g 
classes, on arithmetic, elementary algebra, prac- 
tical geometry, architecture, linear-drawing, me- 
chanics, and diemistry i4;>plied to the arts and 
manufkctures. Li€ge is the seat of a anperior 
court, whose jurisdiction extends over the pro- 
vinces of Liege, Namur, Limbur^, and Luxem- 
burg, and, in addition to the university, it poasesset 
a Sodete de Libre Emulation, a firee competitioa 
sdiool, founded fai 1779 by Bishop Velbrudi, a 
school of arts and tr%de, a singing school, a mn« 
seum of natural history and philosophy, a botanie 
garden, a sodety for the cultivation of Frendi 
literature, the last, it may naturally be conolnded» 
a highly boiefldal institution, as the lower rlassw 
of the inhahilanis apeak the Walloon or proviMi 




St. I'ul'i^ LUga. 




vaif&at«b'tai^'Uk« 




Cbnudfontaiiig. 



I 



BontelS] 

dill dUBOt, ivUdi li *nfc« nnlntdUglbla to thi 

frocn the Did dudel on Mount Bt. WiUmig, the 
mtl»A da P1£ta ovoiool 



uodlngoo 






aotHegtt 



whkli nbHinda tn tfa* neighbourbaod, extending 
iti Tdm fwai undv the bed of the Ueuae, li oix 
lied on» bid the Tariona ol^scu of exportMloii 
eonrieti Id the produotiou of the soil uid niune* 
KHU nunnAKlorlee, tIi^ Iron, muMe, Ume, 
brimitoiie, tl'oa, tobKoo, groin^ mlsa, hopi, 
endlTe, gmme, nalli, potter?, gUn, pi|>er, nip, 
peifntacrT, letUier, ateel, Imntvibre, Jeweller?, 
liMi, ume of an Idndi, cotton, wonted, dotli, 
hereeTinere, fauKee, optical, ma-lhematlcal, and 



imenl for the p.v. 
ducUon of pilnted caUmea after a now procsii 
rMenllT adopted, and a chloiine bleactalng-Oeld, 
in which the eparatlon of bleaddng la complewd 
bi ■ f» taoon. ClBl-iran [irlntlng.pmie*, and 
■11 Idndg of ateani-englDH are manufacturBd la 
the greateat perfKtkHi m% hit^s, paitloDUFlj at 
the eitabllihniniC of Kr, CockeriU, at Berahig 
(a Bubnrb of LUge, to wtdeb there it an omnlbua 

employi ItfiOO workmen. Among the oelabrUed 

lalrfn* ninuuned the Oatcb Haphael, author 
ofa trtatlaeonpalnthig; the lagenlouj Renchln, 

near Ven^lleii theJoiliccHaiilMean; and Oreti, 




ttr behind ihe Bi 

ibuclairs 11 ihortlj arrlTed at; H la the bsntKil 
bridge of VaUBenolt, a nwalardece of arcbl' 
tecture. Itere are Dve el^tioal aj-cbo^ anr^ 
mounted bj a par^tet eoin|»todDf Iron baJu^ 
diridbig 11 



a. Theral 



ne side, and hU 



e b alio a r«d fOr fOot pi 
Ilf»i caat-lronbaliutrade li lighted bj elegant 
JlalHK. After paiahig the Ueuae, a aplendld 
nmal> presented to the eye of Ih* deBghtad 
Uer. On the left la Llcge, '-the liuDDlanl 
' HotUng can lie more beautiful Ihao Ih* 



ig plaee, attoataa at the 
Eih the Veadre. The 
il tale of the Veidra 



-cfairda,rlila% gtfdene, and r 
at Umn varied by Imrga maiiuf>vj 
pallj efdolh, alt along to 



A bauUful Tlllago •Bra mllei dtataot trma 

XMgt. on the Cologn* RaQwi?. SdlghtAillr 
idhilhaTiOeT dela Teadre, It la mm«h 




the BelrlaB nllwv^ where dUBimltlea buur- 
0n«> H«v> hmn Aan ODad i^. 



68 



UEGB-HPEFDISrSB— 8PA. 



[BoiitdM 



the ezpens's haddtntal to tbe remoTtl of 1ns- 
gago to and firom the stations of larger towns. 
Some diitanoe ftirther on, an eztraordinaiy high 
hill on the left is passed; it forms an amptai* 
theatre. On certain parts it is destitate of a 
ooTeiiog of earth, thus exposbig to view layers 
of green-tinted marble, haying a fine effect. 
Between this ard tbe station of Pep-nster, a 
country, wild, msjesUo, and heantiftal by turns, 
is traversed. 

Lb Trooz. — A place of no importance. 

Nessohyaux. 

Pkpinstbb.— Railway to Spa, distance, about 
7^ miles. Three or four trains daily (see Brad' 
thaivft Continental Chtide, page 64). Faros, 1st 
class, 1 fr. 80 cents.; 2Dd dass, 1 fr. 35 ceota^ 
Srd class, 90 cents. 

The i;oad to Spa proceeds along the Valley of 
the Uoegne, dothed with meadows of the 
brii^htest verdare, and studded with country- 
houses belonging to tbe manufkcturers of Ver- 
Tiers. Beyond is the village of Theux, famous 
for its quarries of black marble. 

An ayenue of lime trees is paised through, and 
we enter 

Hpa.— Hote% : 
Hotel de Flandre, highly recommended: its 

table d'hd^e is very good. 
Grand Hotel Britannique— good, and well con- 
ducted. 
Hotel de Yoilc and Hotel d'Orange are also 
comfortable. 

There are besides great numbers of lodging 
houses. ^ 

Spa. — A town in the arrondissement of Ver- 
Tiers, situated on tbe little river Wahay, in a 
valley surrounded by heights. It dates from the 
year 1327, when its founder, an iron ma8ter,who 
purchased from the prince-bisbop of Li&ge 
a quantity of woodland (in which the Pouhan 
spring was discovered, lyhig in the ooitre of a 
small meadow), caused the ground to be deared, 
and reared the flrit habitations. It afterwards 
became celebrated throughout Europe for its 
miaerid watov, to which it is indebted for its 
existence and presfrvation, and in attracting 
crowds of strangers frora the north of Europe, 
and particularly from England v— has more than 
0ace heea honoured with the presence of several 
arorne^ *'-'*- «« th9 Maai9 time, who laying 



aside tiie pomp and drenustenee of porwer, ' 
oigaged in the pursuit of health from the use of 
its medidnal springs. The town oompriaea «p> 
wards of 600 hnuses; the greater part, tattafWIy 
and degantly fUmlshed, assume the name if 
hotels, and offer every accommodatioa to tfuise 
taking up a temporary abode in the plaee. The 
pvinc^tal street is terminated by an irregnlarty* 
shaped place or square^ in the centre of whftdi 
stands a foimtain, and near it a large pvUte 
saloon, built in 1820, at the expense of their 
B.H the Prince and Princess of Oran«e» in m» 
membrance of Peter I^ the Emperor of Bnmiti, 
who derived great benefit from its waterf^ datioi 
a residence of six weeks, in 1717. The prodnew 
tlon» of tbe neighbourhood are not equal to the 
con»nmption of the town during the period ef 
the hiflux of strangers; and fruit, vegetaUc% 
il&h, and pou try are consequently brought tram 
Ll^. The ordinary water is eAoellent, and 
more pure than might have be^i expected in a 
spot aboundmg in mineral springs. TIm prinai- 
pal industry of tbe inhabitants is the fkbrioaHon 
of an infinite varie y of articles, known aa 4m 
Ware ; these articles, the best of whidt are made 
of the bird's-eye maple, and are previously 
stained grey by immersion in the mfneral water 
of the place, are often elaborately painted, and 
are then really works of art : the flower.palntlof 
is exquisite. The great bnprovement which has 
taken place of late years in this peculiar indostry* 
is mainly owing to the foundation of a drawinc 
academy in 1843^ which has produced maoy v«cy. 
clever artists. 

Minarai Spring.— Ot these there are no lev 
than seven, wi^out counting a variety that loaa 
themselves in the mountain. The names <rf the 
most important are— the Fouhon, the G«ronet6ra, 
the Sauvenidre, the Groesbeck, the two fountaloe 
of the Tonndet, and the Barisart. 

The Pouhon is the most cdebrated and bert 
frequented, and the only one from vriiidi (^ 
water is taken for the purpose of being aentte 
foreign countries. It rises from the ground in 
the centre of the town, and is suppoeed to haM 
its source in the mountain of argHlaoeoos 
slate, the base of which is veined with oxide 
of iron. At some distance to the west tte 
slate appears slightly mixed with silex and alnm, 
and is easily decomposed by the at 
\ an<i* nJkn. T\m ^^ocw \a «cksl<Mnd in a 



Bonteldl 



mnSRAL SPB1KG9— POUHOH-^^XROKSTSBSr 



99 



knilding, decorated with eolnmiu; and those 
drtaiUng the waters find reftige flrom the hide- 
menej of the weather hi a saloon of the monn- 
ment, ahready mentioned, erected to the memory 
of Peter the Great. The spring is equal to the 
dally oonsnmption ; it even loses much of its 
water, of wlilch no use is made, and q[>pears 
more or less abundant, and possesses its medi- 
dnsl qualhies in a greater or less d3gree^ ac- 
cording to the season of the year. A tolerable 
idea of the (luantity of water supplied by this 
fountain may be fonned, when it is stated, that 
notwithstanding the greater number of those 
who drink it, the consumption of the inhabitants, 
who make a habitual use of it, and flrom 80O to 
1,000 pitchers sent daily to foreign countries, 
the diminution in the basin is scarcely per- 
ceptible. The water is perfectly limpid, but it 
deposits an ochrey or metallic earth, whidi is 
daily remored from the mouth of the fountdn, 
and gaseous bubbles constanUy rise ftrom the 
bottom of the spring, bursting with a dull sound 
on the surfkce of the water, the temperature of 
which is 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or 8 degrees 
R6aum, and its spedfio gravity 1.00098. It has 
a foTuginous, addulous taste^ without smell, 
unless after the longest rains ; and if the water 
is left some time exposed to the air, it gradually 
loses its bubbles, taste, and limpidity, and de- 
posits a reddish brown sediment, that elianges 
to a reddish yellow on drying. The Pouhon 
spring is impregnated with iron and carbonic 
acid in a greater degree than any other spring 
known. To the former quality it is indebted for 
its medicinal qualities; while crom the super- 
abunoaoce of the carbonic acid it is capable of 
being preserved during entire years in well- 
corked bottles and pitchers, and for this reason 
is sent in considerable quantities to foreign 
countries. 

The Oerontth'e is the principal spring afte 
the Pouhon, and that of which the greatest use 
is made. It lies about three-quarters of a league 
flrom Spa, half way to the mountain, forming a 
semicircle round the town to the touth. It comes 
flrom a solitary grove, near the dwelling-house of 
the keepers, in which is a pretty large saloon, 
whither the water-drinkers resort in bad weather. 
Fine groups of trees, and alleys with agreeable 
foot-paths winding through dunning meadows, 
lend thdr influence to the vidni'y, and thou fte- 



qaenting this weH, to indulge in the pleasures ef 
the promenade. The mouth of the spring is 
contained in a round bastan, three feet in diame- 
ter by two deep, covered over with a cupola, sua- 
tained by columns, and connected with the 
saloon by a gallery. Fewer of those bubbles that 
burst on reaching the surface of the water are 
seen here than at the Pouhon; but the most 
striking diiference between the two wells is 
perhaps to be found in the disi^reeable smell 
emitted by the vrater of the Geronst6re, which is 
sensibly fdt by the visitor at the entrance of the 
little construction, and stTl more so en canying 
a i^aas of it to his mouth. This odour is, hew- 
ever, promptly dissipated even in the pitchers 
when the water is drawn. Its taste is decided^ 
ferruginous, but less addulous than the Pouhon, 
and its temperature 49 Fahrenhdt, or 7 65 
Rianm. Spedflc gravity, .0008. Pic-nic parties 
and fStes perpetually enliven the beautiful 
grounds of the Geronst^re during the season. 

The SauvenOre is situated half a league from 
Spa, in the direction of the Geronst^re, and on 
the route to Malmedy. The spring, which flows 
flrom a rock, is covered trma a cupola, and con- 
nected by a gallery with an adjoining saloon. 
On emptying the basin it Is found to fill itself in 
twenty minutes. Sometimes the water is divested 
of smell, and at other times it possesses, though 
in a slighter degree, more than that of the 
GeroBSt^re. Its temperature is 49.6 Fahrenheit 
or 7.77 R^anm. Spedflc gravity, 1 .00076. 

The Qroesbeck is in the neighbourhood of the 
Sauvenidre, and like it is covered over. From 
an inscription we learn that the Baron of Oroea- 
beck, who recovered his health there in 1651 
erected this building through gratitude. The 
temperature of the water is 49.6 degrees Fahren. 
hdt, or 7.77 degrees R§aum. Spedflc gravity, 
1.0( 073. The position of these springs is very 
picturesque, and the grounds attached to them 
are nmch admired for the taste and skill wltfi 
which they have been laid out. Adjoining them 
is a beautiful ravine, at the entrance to whidi is 
a truncated column, orected by Louis Philippe^ 
in remembrance of the benefit derived from the 
waters of the Hauveni^e by the Duchess of 
Orleans, in 1787. A comfortable establishment 
is attadied to these springs, and great nmnben 
of vidtors breakCM>^\Mst«^^^^^«««i^^> 



70 



•AUTBHIBEUft— OBOBSBBO-^rONllEIJrm-WATEITZ. 



[Bo«tol§ 



ttkB drwwitMio of the bMln for the Koeptton 
of the water, having at flnt been fonned of a 
tonneau or bairel, are tituated about a quarter 
of an hour's walk from the Sauyeoi&re. The 
(round is moist and swampy in many places. 
Among other springs ttiat take their rise in tliis 
spot, there are two at an inconsiderable distance 
from each other that merit particular attention, 
on account of the difference existing in their 
constituent parts. One of them is ooTcred, and 
presents a handsome portico and columns, while 
the other, whose virtues entitle it to a higher 
distinction and more consideration, has not re> 
ceived a similar mark of honour. The latter 
flows abundantly fix)m a sohlstus rook, and con- 
thioally gives out a quantity of gas, producing 
an unceasing noise^ simOar to the crackling of 
flames. The temperature is 7.77 degrees B&ium, 
or 49^ degrees Fahrenheit, with a specific gravity 
of 1 .00076. When poured into a glass the water 
presents a crystalline limpidity, and produces a 
quantity of bubbles. Its taste is more agreeable 
and less ferruginous than those above described, 
and it is used as the ordinary drink of tbe inha- 
Ut ints. The smell resembles that of the Geron- 
st^re, but ii somewhat less strong. Both these 
feuDtains are remarkable for the quantity of 
carbonic add they contain, and with which tbe 
groimd in the vicini^ seems strongly impreg- 
ndted ; for it is given out not merely with the 
water, but it ii even evaporated in the clefts of 
the rocks bordering the springs. 

The Barisart is situated at about a mUe from 
the town of Spa, lying due South; it is reached 
by a new road opened through a pleasant valley» 
the road being continued on to the Geronst^e. 
This spring, like all the rest, contahu abundance 
of carbonic add gas. Its flavour is most agree- 
able, and its appearance in the glass is as spark- 
liag as the water of the Pouhon. This valuable 
spring was a roadside well, only reputed among 
the peasantry for itsvermiftige quahties, until 
Dr. Cutler's researches, in regard to its other 
medicinal properties, led to its almost immediate 
appreciation by the public. The authorities of 
the place then directed their attention to thio 
delicious source, the most powerful of all in 
dyspeptic affections; improved the appearance 
of the spot by an ornamental plantation; en- 
closed the well in solid masonry, lined within by 
M ixatf-iroa qyUnder, to exolude the ingress of 



soft springs, and oonstmoted over It » gvotto if 
the boulders scattered about tbe neighkeowiuMidb 
the whole surmounted by a pret^ Ktotqus, A 
chilet is to be shortly built for tlie better aooom* 
modation of invalids, and when completed, th« 
Barlsart, now tiie most frequented <tf all th« 
springs out of the town, will be one of th* 
prettiest objects in the environa of Spft. 

The ChaXpbeate TToeertof SpaaredlstlngnisiMd 
from those of Germany, by the greater qunn Uly 
of carbonic add gas they contain, aad, wltli ihl 
exception of the springs of Pyrmont, the^e ii 
none that may be compared to them hi ttdl 
req>ect. When speaUng of waters highly iaifm^ 
nated with carbonic add, the late Dr. MunraiP/ii 
his Materia liedioa, says, thejf are grated JInm 
their ptrngenej/t '^ ^^ o*> ^hettomaekt amd ta 
a largt doH produe4 a tentible degree of edWe 
ration; ihey inereoie the appetUOf and ff&teroOif 
haoe a diureHo <^ect. 2%ey prone «s^ j» 
dytpeptie affeetioiUt J^om the groUfvX amd Medtfr 
raU stJmuIiM ucwUA by the dUuent operatium tjf 
thevHOerf and hence the advantage derioedfrfm 
lAem {ntAe ntimeroia cAronio afiectiUme oonMeM 
wUh the impaired power of the digestive OfyoMb 
and parUovAairly in simple dytpqi>sia, in ikgfo- 
ehondriasiSt and gout. They generaU^ also eQA- 
tain some saUne substanoetf toMch eommsmhatt 
additional powert', and the operation qf these it 
promoted^ or at least they are rendered man 
grat^fUlt by the oarbonie acid. 

The Spa waters are perhaps the most t 
in nervous and uterine affections, aad i 
orders ot the digestive system ; in liver 
plaints from long residence in hot dimates th^y 
are invaluable. There are two bath esUUki^ 
ments at Spa. 

The Kedoute ii one of the finest establlduneDli 
of the kind in Europe. The exterior of tliis 
edifice, from its slmplidty, would certainly net 
lead the stranger to suspect the richnesa of 10 
interior. Besides a caf6 and a billiard moB| 
there is an elegant saloon in the style of Levis 
XY., and a smaller one ad^joining for the gamas 
of Roulette and Rouge et Noir. In tbe UutfSit 
of these rooms are the princip«l £uropean news- 
papers; a gallery ornamented with pictures and 
statuary connects them with a ball room of 
mi^estlo and harmonious proportions, in the bciik 
style of Gredan ardiiteoture, near whta^ fti 



I* imiiii, seueilir W"! Ua'>t opttii w 



ic ttBH ■ WHk during I IhcMng. It li nrdr IhU ■ ooDipUnt la bMrd 



fti bulli ud ftta, th« \ 
tbej ue both Burrr>und< 
■naidi. SWtpl* chm 



■bin, but th« Hiu ii extmatlj ^ctoraqaa. Tha 

uUdii of Uw Uireice ud puipom bjr Uw 
Belgkui ulhnrlUei, wbleli ukii plui hwt M 
Ktumlnf from Gflmunj. 

fitn tzmvflUtn antflrtng BdghuD froda ftiiatfs 
bne tlMir higiM* nibfKtBd to k lone ud 



food Torkbif hanien b kept, wltii wUfh 
Mncgar* *n jwinlttod to bimt. Tbli plu* bu 
becoms f4 liiu ran ■ wlntsr nrfdauc*; bid 
dlTlno Hrrtoe li performed tvlco vrerr Snndaj, 
tbranfbont tb« fvTfbj tber«ilden£ dorgjimm. 
Tb«» ii mn ixceDttit ehjli^ nll«d tbe "Spa 

m. CM of tb( loTt 



Gb((jrbMU Bprtnli." Bukar— Hr. Hiyenul. 
Bnrttr aftv UaTfai| Iha RaUoo af Pa^nater, 
Iba Taadra la cnaaad b; a Una brUia, iu>d the 
rdbwdihorlljasmaooFaninittlDg.tlianiebg 
OB altlief rida U iriikh are nutnUeoit b firm 



f— ■■■d af Ba i i»niia ttiMiiim, ami lla popnls- 
Manltl^Na. TbaiM*|il*<if tba<ihiinta,lbetDp 
of wfaMi Ii *«t]> ilnaii^ {ovdneaa a plsaibig 
" ' " ~ " " "la nUmad piaia 



m mar tutifba Utmd tka LMdt 
. r<>piifattgii,abart«.IHkmv« 




I no BoiaU lnfiafa. Thli oiiea- 

lew iDia Uh nlle]> li atneabh^ bat Iha* It 
otblng worth (topplni to lee. Tba nlhmr 
ere quite tlie rallej of the Vaadre. Hm drat 
tuidui etatloD mat with la 



Faiaport^ at th* Ali-la-ChapdIa itatlai^ 
ra thi higgacB It all aiamlnad and dtelaiad 
ruult. ThaiBUwajltoarrledoTeraliiidf* 
TaDteaaai^e^ 130 fbat Ugh In tba emO^ 
th« nllcj of Iha Oiill^ pairiD| thnngh twa 
leli, tha Kccnd of which li I.J30 fM b»ft 

[Reread through aiaod bill. Itflnalljtaniliialia 
Ali-la-Cbapant^ down an Inohnad |daD% up 

which oanlacea are drawn by a ntarj viffaia !■ 

ALi>l»>i:bap<!lle Qn German AaAa).— 

Hotel HnellaoB, ftnt-rala. In ■ good illsallon 

raoominand tkt hl(lilf , Laadlordt Mr* 
Kndlaa. 
Botsl Da Grand Hanarqna, or DnaMTa Hola^ 

1 hd enloivd fiv ^^m 



1% 



A I X- LA-CHLAFBLLE. 



CBohle l<i 



]Mt4blr^yMM. An exeelkPtlMiUi-hoiMe to , Uati, vntU the l«tt«r were euniMltod to 
AttadMd to H. Mr. DnomI ^Mikt Fngliih. } to other ooontriao; and m th«j 
At BflrbMtfaal, the itotion previous to arrhrlng 

•t Aiz-lo-Chapello from Ostend, the luggage and 

pfvnparts are taken away hy the Proatian autho- 

ritieB. The pavport most be redafaned at the 

station at Aix, where the loggage, for that city 

only, is also searched ; but the luggage for Cologne 

Is searched on arrlTing there. Without this 

infbnoation the traveller may be looking for his 

luggage at Aix, wliile the trafai is starting with it 

for Cologne. 
Among the many peculiarities of travelling by 

railway, we have often experienced the inconve- 
nience of being conveyed in that arbitrary man- 
ner, "ban gr% tMH grl, from the threshold of cme 
eountzy to the firontier of another. Unthinkingly 
taking tickets throughout, the traveller is carried 
over aoountry, deprived of the power of stopping 
at any of the attractive scenes he may observe on 
the Journey. Booked for a certain point, to that j cloth, the 4ye of whidi wears to the last, and flf 
destination he must go; and though he behdd • wliidi they export a great quantitj to Ncwtli aiid 
the auriferous Australia on the one side^ or ; fkmth Amm-**^ There are also oooiilenUa 
heard the dulcet notes of the Swedish Nightingale ' establishments for manuCMturfaig noedlfli sad 
from the groves on the other, the traveller must | plus, which are largely exported. Also ealeuslfe 
imitate the self-denial of Ulysses— dose his eyes i iron foundries, machine shops, coach-makers^ to 
to the tempting land of the "diggins,*' and turn ; Aiz-huCluqpelle has also become celebrated ftr 
away his ear from the melody of the Syren, for ; its warm medicinal springs, which break fiMrth 
the obdurate bye-laws which regulate modem in all pwts of the dty, and aflbrd a great sourea 
locomotion admit of no stoppage on the road — ; of revenue and attraction. These waters an very 
no loitering behind—unless at the sacrifice of •; efltotdoos, but may be ii\}uriooa niiea tsfcM 
one's frre^ or the probable loss of one's baggage- • improperly or without medical advioe. "We reier 
This will explain the reason of so few English ; those who wish to obtain hiformatlo& on tfailr 
visiting A ix-la-Chiq>elle. • eompoeition and medical virtues to a book wrftln 



the most wealthy and influential mer<sliaiit%ttHlr' 
emigration proved highly pr^fodldal to tte ; 
poity of the town, whidi dedfaied fSor 
Latteriy it haa acquired an advenlttloiia ; 
anoe in histcNry, from its having had 
European Congresses hsld within ita walls. TUi 
faivested it with a temporary dignity, wnanatlnR. 
as it were, in a graeeAil act of filial piety from 
the sovereigns of modem Europe towavdi Ike 
fkvoorite city of Charkmagne. 

CommerclBlly, Aiz-la-Caiapelle wai 
in fonner agea for the cxoelleDej of ita ' 
mannfiwtareB. Its eknths, in partlcnlafk mM 
highly esteemed in the maritime eitias «C the 
Continent; and even at the present day, tta 
manu&otnrers of Aiz are still enaUed to pro- 
dace, from some remarkable propertiea in the 
mineral waters of the town, a peculiar lifl^ hioe 



Aix-la-Chapelle is a pleasant and convenient 
break in the Journey between Ostend and Cologne, 



by an experienced physician livhig at AJz-k- 
ChapeUe. « The Mineral "Vfaters of Aix-la-Cha- 



and vice ven&j and many make it a resting place i pelle," by L. Wetsdar, M.D., Fhysioian at AizJa- 
for the night on that account. There is an j Chiq>elle. London, John CburehOI, 1852. 
English church here, in the Anna Stresse, and j In addition to the baths, there is an eqoaQj 
the services on Sundays are at twelve and six I powerfrd oltfect of attraction, naraely, the Kur- 
o'dock. { saal, or Gaming-house, to which visitors resort 

Historically it is associated with the grandeur j to pass their time at roulette or rouge et wrfr; 
and the celebrity of Charlemagne, who died there, and thua, after submitting to the depressing efftict 
The emperors of Germany were formerly crowned , of the aperient waters, the hypocondriao issti. 
within its walls, and its dtizens possessed, during mulated under the exdting scenes and diaaoes 
the middle ages, so many important privileges '• of the gambling-tatole! "We do not conceive tiiii 
and immunities, that it was said the very air of ' alternate course can be condudve to health— 
Aix-la-Clu9elle enfranchised even the outlaw! I %iais€en*tgtp<u noire qf aire 



During the earlier progress of the Reformation, 
this dty was the scene of dvfl dissensiolis ^ndreli- 



Ol^jects of attraction.— The Town BdO, aa edi. 
flee no ways remarkable, is now undergoiaf • 
thoroQ|||hr«itoia))lAaEu It bears the stenp of anil* 



Bonie IS] 



AIX-LA-«IUFELLB. 



7J 



qnity, and in tt are now bei]« ezeeuted, liy Alfired I ^ dareloptnent of liMni^ instltutiOBg' and tUa* 
Bethol, annmber of fresco paintings from scenes j V**^ *>f ^ *^- 



In the histray of Chariemagne. The Cathedral, 
begun nnder Chariemagne in 796, is one of the 
most important in Germany, and here repose the 
remains of tliis great emperor. The choir of 
the cathedral is now being restored. Therearealso 
an ahnost innmnerahle number of precious rdics 
of yarious authenticity and value : there are sculls 
and bones of quertionable anatomy, and sacred 
relics that would make a sceptic of the credulous ; 



IrOtrariex.— PubUc library at liie Town HaS; 
library of the Gymnasium ; library of tlie Burgher 
School; library of the Society for Arts and 
Sciences; library at the Royal GoTemmenI 
House. Beside these the possessors of privata 
libraries will very readily afford strangers the*' 
loan and amusement of single works, by applymg 
to Messrs. Dr. Von Sartorius, Counsellor Bits, ' 
Dr. J. Muller, and C. Heis. Libraries are kqpt' 



but we are told these are all exhibited once in i by the book-T«ndors, J. A. Mayer and H. Benrath ' 
seven year% and that pilgrims floek to see them I vho abo circulate a series of periodical Jonraala 
from all parts of Europe. We need not indulge ! and magazines. 

ina comment upon this &et; but if the traveller I Next to the teeming flowery meadi of tlia ' 
makes a minute ftton a list of the relics, it may | environing cbontiy, the promenades about the ' 
afford him and his friends a sutdect of ooiir ersa* towta, gardens of Messrs. J. A. Bischoff, H. Deu^ 



tion for many evenings, to determine the poesi- 
bili^ of thdr being what th^ are described. The 



ner, the chaaoine v. Flsenne at Kaisersruhe^ tha ' 
Counsellor ZkurfaeUe at Kalkofen (buOt by Ctenenl 



hot water fountain of Eliaa. The Knrhanse EUot), and Schwendler at the Eldi, offer to tha 
or assembly rooms for strangers; subscriptkua delighted botanist a ftiU enjoyment of indigenous 
for the season for one person, 4 thalers; for two ' and exotic plants. Beside the pubHo tmeaHtits 
persons, if of the same fiEunily, 6 thalers; for eadi rooms of the grand Kurhaus, with its choice 
person above, 2 thalers. The new government selection of literature and belles-lettres, where 
building, in the oourt of which is deposited the ; good xbbiAq is executed, J<rfned to divers other 



ponderous Acvolite, said to weigh seven thousand 
pounds. The m<mument erected in memory 
of the Congress of Aix-la-Chapdle, in 1818. 
The Belvedere in the Louisberg, and tlte hill 
itself. 



enjoyments, the Fountain Eliaa, where music 
invites presence, and where a brilliant iUundnation 
of the whole colonnade takes place at different 
times. A ready admittance may be obtained to 



The new hospital now building ontidde the following private iiodeties: — The OaMnd^ 
the town, between Handkam and Cologne | opposite to the theatre ; and the Society for Alts 



gates. 

The suburbs and environs of Aix-la-Chapdto 
are both pleasant and interesting. A dianning 
view of the yrhxAa dty and surrounding wyaxArj 



and Sciences, 429, Comphausbad ; and the Sodety 
**Erbolung,'' opposite to the Fountain Eliaa. 
Eaeh of these sodeties keeps a variety of political 
and conversational p^>ers. There are also card 
and billiard tables, merely for amusement and 
pastime. 

Mutkal and atkor £M0rtolnm«nt».— .Conottts 
are given from time to time in the saloons of tiia 
Ku r h aus. Performances of instrumental and 
vocal mudo take place every week, executed by 
amateurs of the town. These are— the Union, 



is obtained from the hill of Louisberg, afkvonrite 
resort of the good dtizens on Sundays axkd hdi- 
days. The Valley of Bnrtscheld is also worth 
vidthig. It extends firom east to west, and is 
cdebrated for the numerous warm springs and 
brooks that run through it. These hot weUs sup- 
ply several large bathing houses, In oppodtion to 
the more aristoeratio estaUishments in the d^. j for instrumental mudc, perform every Tuesday 
There are also manufiujtories of doths and cash- , at the Erhohmg ; the Liedertafd (vocal mudc), 
merea in t£e valley, established by Protestants, : perform on Saturdagrs; - the Concordia Union - 
who were formerly not permitted to have an in- . (vocal harmony), perform on Thursdays. Every 
dependent place of worship at Aix; but we are { day fhmi 7 to 8 a.m. a band pbyrs at the EUsen- 
happy to add that the sirfrit of faiiolerance in > brunnen; and fttan. 8 to half-past 4 p.m., in the 
Prusda has been greatly subdued dace the events garden of the Kurhaus. The military band ^Btesi^ 
of the last four years, and we antfdpaite a fvcUier ' on Wednesday, TirtflaK8^iaA%qaaftaga^'»».v^ ^^«g^ 
BMdiflcation in this respect^ hi aeeordaiioe wUh ^ p.m., >i«rar% lehia i^'WroBR. ^5p««v*^>*^*«**^ 



74 



FUBUO UHfrrrUTJOHS-HSAZLWATS. 



LBontolS 



«id flomedlei^ are ghren 1^ tnnu on four days of ) 
the week, at tbe playhouse. A dress-ball takes | 
IiJAoe once a week !n the saloons of the Kurhans. j 

PubUe JnsfittrtftOfM.— Aix-la-Chapelle has a ; 
tviftl gymnasfwm, a higher burgher school, a 
ladiei^ semhiary and boarding-school, St. Leon, 
ardf^ besides Bevenl private s<diools for both 
•exes. An establishment for gymnastic exercises 
and tilting, and a swimming-school, bare lately 
been added. A most important philanthropic 
Inatitntion is the poor and orphan house, undOT 
tbe guidance of a charitable dsterhood latety 
oome over from Nancy, in France. Berides this 
oftablishment there is an infirmary for men and 
<me for women, a lying-in hospital for the poor, 
and an institution for the deaf and dumb. 

Promenades and Points of Bxctwsion into ihe 
Conaibry. — The Lousberg presents a delightftd 
p<^t of view over the whole of the surrounding 
landscape, studded with country seats and villas, 
It is laid out garden-like with shrubs and shadowy 
trees. Thehinitseif is a formation of chalk, and 
celebrated for its treasures fai condiites, shells, and 
Testable petrifactions. Opposite to the Lous- 
berg lies a secondary hiU, the Salvatorberg, with 
a diapel on its knoll Joined to a fum. The 
diapel was founded by Louis the Meek. At 
Borcette are worthy of notice the hot springs, 
the boiling, bnbbUng well in the middle of one of 
^be streets, and uncovered, and the ancient abbey. 
It is here Where the Devon transition limestone 
is ybrible, containing very expressed petrifkctions, 
vis., Bpedes of Caloemoporat CyaOtajphylhim, and 
Tere&rotola. Frankenberg, one of the castles or 
strongholds of the earlier part of the thirteenth 
century, said to have been a hunting-lodge of 
Charlemagne. A moat surrounds it, into whidi* 
tilt legend tells n«, Frastradi's rtn«r w«8 thrown, 
lieparting from Borcette the wi^ leads to it by 
the Warmeweier along the Pockenputschen 
(smallpox-puddle pit), through a picturesque 
rooky deft. At a shmrt dbtance eastward lies 
Piimbom, adjoining to which is a deiightftil little 
wood, containing the ruins of some knight's 
stropghold of yore, a dilapidated chapel, and a 
sarcophagus. Schoenf orst, the ruins of a strong, 
bold of the 13th century, lies eastward not fiir frt>m 
Frankenberg. Itsneighbourhoodabounds fax wild 
growing plants, amongst which are to be found i 
the Plocontikera 6{^blfo and CfUorant^ the Or- t 
{fy mnad mia wirUUt and C9M9S«a% 



seUa aquaUea, and many others. Malate^ (yerf 
likely a later corruption from the Freneh "nuu 
ladee^), a mUe and a half westward from AiX| 
the ndns of an infirmary and duq[>el, of the dawm 
of the 13th century. This spot owns the Quirinm 
source. Septfontaines, about two miles, in the 
same direction. Seven springs are observed 
issuing out of the base of a barren hiU of caL 
careous marl. Flowing firom a highly romantic 
country, these springs give birth to the Wildbai^ 
(mad-stream). The summit of this rodqr bilk 
affords a picturesque view. In its near vicinity 
lies Yetschau, a very hiteresting village for geo- 

legists. Here the Maestrichtstzatum, containing 
a variety of petrifactions, is already met with. A 

pleasant way leads from Vetsdiau to I<anrens. 
berg. The village diurdi is situated on the top 
of the grass-grown knoll, from whnrce. under 
spreading Linden trees^ a most delightful view 
upon tne town of Aix is beheld. F^m thenoa 
the carriage road leads back to Aix acroii 
the Wildbadi. Eaisersnihe, about two mOel 
northward of the town. Its vast and de- 
lightful gardens, its nurserieS) hot-houses, and 
its beantiftal perspectives, are very attraetiqg. 
Bordering upon the backgrounds of the gardens 
lies the Scherberigberg (flinty hillocks) with vast 
pebble-stone beds. The Wolfirflirth (wolveft 
track) hi the valley of the Wurm, at the foot of 
the Scherberigberg. Here b the (mly discharge 
of all the drains of Aix-la-Chapelle. This plaoe 
consists of some few buildings, chiefly doth mana. 
factories. Some good flower and kitdien gardem 
are attached to them, and also a small parl^ the 
property of the doth manufacturer, Mr. Knet- 
gens. Gardens and park form a part of the 
Bois de Fauhne, a name given to this wood by 
Napoleon's sister. Beads conduct to it from dif- 
ferent rides. 

The railway leaves Aix.l»>Chapelle station hf 
a splendid viaduct, of two tiers of fifteen small 
and twenty large bride ardies. The viaduct spans 
the narrow valley of the Wurmbadi, and is eigfa^ 
hundred and ninety two feet long, and seventy 
feet high in the centre. 

Close by the side of the line, to the left, is tiie 
Castle of Frankenberg Charlemagne is reported 
to have f oun<ie<X a castle on this spot, in whidi be 
dwdt, and there died his Queen Frastrada Tra-- 
dittou states that he never left l|er body, td^ot^ 



TnflB Am Vim opsiisd th* cnffln m 
dnrinl Uw •n^Bo'l ^—f, and nlaiai 
ftom Ui OmU/HB, ij uUiic from off tha Ind 
foMD'a angar Iba lolil mddliig ring, and 
tbnwtaig It Into Oh Doat «( the ca^e. 

Hnaii. — Thli lUlaca la (Mil Juit pmrloiu 
Aterlng tha atttlng laadlDg to tha KItbth tnimel, 

taiTjiBt tha nnmj ttanmgli tba baaln of 
*liii!h nirroimd All. Pualiia Umnfh the kaao- 
ttfUl wood of Bdchiwald, 

iroLBDU la raached. Tha towot a mai 
tnring out, vlth about 1,1)00 Inhabltaiita, la bollt 
abon thna mlltaKuthaf tbt naUoDiiipaTallaji 
■tndded vllh rnOli, torgm, &a. Tba town b 
•unDounttd br a platanaqM old caatla, LaailDi 
ben, lb« nUtroad mrariea a owaOrj rltb I 



IroD-warki, mi, croaalng tba Jud 
coiTad tuonsl ^ardns tli 



EkoT tba SOhaii. 

HuUtUatown of 
tbc Jade, and haftng 

th* Una. Tba 



Oankad with four towan, and than «a pua i 
the bUh ambanksuiat whlob {aanadaa tha i 
cuttlni paiaed thnmgh bj tba nDnad pc« 

— Bajond thi^ tbrongh 
ht, ■ Tltdiot Df aaran ar 
ieraUwv,vhU]h,aftar amargbif f 
Um cutdnc looka bjr iba illliga and euUa of 
Merode, and again paTmlnf Iti ooDzaa througb 
tba vUlaga of Dboni, onailiig Utfl Bhitia Inun^ 
dlatelj alter bj a brldga of all arefata^ w1 
•nlsr Iba ilallon. QuIlUng hen Iba Talhnj 
paaaca tbnugb tba vUlrngfla of Dborn, and of 
Owoiaucb on tba left, and la than cairlad orar 



Valaof tt 



the lalll^ or the Rhat to tba beaUItftil Tlllaf* 
HladbegaDtalBhtmUaaontb of Dunn, boflt oa 
ahUl,aDwta]i:hantbendiuDra aaillo, ittun 



Erft; croobiB tbatrlierbTthnebrUgaabafOn 

HoBBZH, bcTonJ which vIDage l> the Sn* old 
Caatle of Frou. Paaaing from tbe Erft Into tha 
Tall^ of the Bhliw.lbiough Konlgidorf innnd, 
a mile long, eanied through a blU of land on* 
himdnd and tUrtr-aii fmi balow the nmDiU, 

CoLoan, with Ita mjrlad Mmra and ataavlah 

elenled fu abo>e ii4iiidi iliaa the octagon of K. 
OeraaD. Mlb In dataohed foni and hatf.bnrled 
toweFamrrODii&edwllhtnea. TUabrbigaiiala 

to Jolicb, Hera a vaij fine Tlev can be had <d 

CoIOKO*-— (Otraiao, SUn ; Poldi, Enln.) 

Hotel DMAidtnatad Id Bildga-aaael,T*rT UfUr 

DOdaUon wilb moderat* lAatgca. Tba 
prapriaton, Megan. Dlacb and Civallaa. all* 
b»e a lait* awirtinBit of the ban KUb 
and MoieUe Wlnea tai wholaula. 
Hotel da HoUaoda, oppodta tha plw of the 



" '^"'j'^'^' 



Hotel Roral. aioenani 




^^•iUk li*^*.'**^ 



76 



OOLOONB* 



[Rosters 



d««ned it right to try tna quaUtles of Mv«n] 

■ampleWi and haTing sobmitted them to good 

ooxmolaseun, we reoommend, in fkiU oonfldence, 

the establiahment of Johann Anton Farina, 

known by the name of the City of Milan, 129, 

High Street, Hohe Strass— a descendant of the 

orij^nal Farina fkmfl]^ and purveyor to moat of 
the reigning monareCs in Europe. One of the bint 
ways of distinfcnlshing the genuine firom the spa. 
fluua is to rub a few drops on the hand, when the 
good «au de Cologne must neither smell of any 
q>iritaoua liquor, nor of musk, nor anv foreign 
Bubstanoe^ but only of the odour peculiar to the 



Cologne is a fortified town situated on the left 
bank of the Bhine, with a popuUUion of 90,000^ 
lauding its.suburlM, Tdte de Pont and Deuts, on 
the right bank. A bridge of boats four hundred 
fpet oonneots the town and suburlM. 

DroOAe* or cabs, hired at the rate of 15 to 20 
dlver>gto8chen per hour; 6 s.g. for a quarter 
hour's drive, with one or two persons; with three 
or four, 10 8^. 

This remarkable town owes its origin to the 
oamp that Marcus Agrippa pitdied on the skirt 
of the hill, that stretches from the church of 
St. liergen aa far as the ground now oooiq>ied by 
the Street Obenmauren. That camp was after- 
wards perfected by the removal of the Ubi, under 
Tiberiust a native tribe from the east bank of the 
Bhine, on which thoy had previously lived, to the 
right bank) en the spot where Cologne now 
st;an<*s. At a later period, about a century after, 
this original dty, called Oppidwn UHorum was 
enlarged by a Roman colony of veterans, sent 
nither by Agrippina, the wife of Claudius and 
mother of Nero, who was bom here in the camp 
of her fktber, Germanicus. It was thence called 
after her, Colonia Agrippina ; from which arises 
its modem appellation. Cologne is deeply inter- 
eating in its historical reminiscences, as well as in 
the analysis of its chequered destiny, traced on 
many a page of overflowing prosperity. Prostrate 
one season and flourishing in another this town 
passed through elpochs, diflSerent in their character 
as they were disastrous or beneficial in their con- 
sequences. At tf:^ distant and remote period, 
when oycles of centuries have, rolled over since 
the mail-clad Roman swayed his delegated im. 
perisJism in this dty, we can trace monuments of 
his sovereignty in the fragmental atmns of broken 
vaUa diq>eraed throughout the dtj buUdings^ in 
tbfMDtiqaHiegafBoaum origin dug up daily frnun 



beneath Itt tofftoe^ as v«ll aa in the naarked 
outline^ dasdcal fteatmes, and aquiline noses of 
the pc^mlation, whose phy siognon^ indicates their 
heareditary descent, and distinctly marks them as 
of a different race firom their German neighbours. 
The distinctive mark of their Roman origin hss 
not seemed otherwise than aa a boast and an 
honour to the people of this dfy, who, in ti^ 
enthuidasm of their pride, dedgnated th^nselvcs 
«*Uricians. The consular toga adorned their 
chief magistrates, who, like the Roman conaub 
and triumvirs, were preceded by lictors, and h^d 
inscribed on their banners S. P. Q. C. The 
antiquaxian disposed to rigidly scan the outUne 
and extent of the anUai Ubiontm, will trace 
through the Auf der Burgmaeur, by the Zenghaos^ 
by the Klarenthurm: erected on the Roman wdls 
by the Franks, thence through the gardens to the 
Lach, where appears another Reman tower, and 
to the Marsilstein ; and thence again eastward to 
the church of St. Mary, erected on the aita of the 
capitol, and thence by the Rathaus, thedte of the 
Roman PrsBtorium, to the cathedral, the foondA- 
tions of the Roman walls, from which he can at 
once ascertain the limits ef the Colonia Agr^^ina 
and its extensions. 

The outer walls enclosing the town, date firom 
the twelfth and fifteenth centuries consecntivelty, 
and are a perfect qpedmen of that species of 
building of the middle ages, betaig fljnked wfth 
picturesque towers and gate-houses. The preseqt 
extent of Cologne is about 2) English mQea firom 
the Bayenthurm, at the upper end of the Thiirm- 
chen, or littie tower at the lower end ; and 4^ 
English miles between these same pc^ts on the 
land side, round the wall. 

Here it was that VitelUus and Sylvanna, the 
latter of whom was assassinated in the capitol, 
had theTnselves proclaimed emperors ; and at a 
later period, in 500, Cloris was proclaimed Kii^ 
of the Franks. 

In the middle ages, Cologne was a pow«rftiX 
and flourishing dty, and one of the most important 
members of the Hanseatic League and the em- 
porium of the trade of Eastern Europe^ being the 
central medium firom whence were transported 
the arts and products of the east to the west of 
Europe, and maintidning an incessant c<Mnmiml- 
cation with Italy. Nor b it at all improbable that 
the southern school of painting received maiqr of 
Its v^TfMttonaiad laqycovements at the haiidt of 



i 




"'MBS SK'jiaSim'iX'i. 



^,'' 



»- 



>£S1 





:tt -s. 



f -» s- . 



^t 









#'«•► a' 



-- ^ 



t.' 



,.•• 



Xoote 18 



CAT SDRAL. 



T7 



JMrthem arttsCi; at all erenU, H it oertaUi, that 
ita ean trace an Intemate connection between the 
i fch^nfaii and Italian schoola, whilst the southern 
tl|to of ardiitectuie is seen in many of the oldest 
ohnrclMB. And to-dagr, when, after the lapse of 
so many naituries, we should expect to see all 
traditional observances of Roman custom de- 
parted, we behold, in Cologne, the celebration of 
^ Carnival after the same style, and with as 
imdi qtirit, as in Rome ; an inheritance and a 
|afacj bequeathed by the early Roman inhabi- 
tants to the Colognese. Very many assoclationa 
ff bygone years and their events, rend&r Cologne 
an otject of deep interest to English traveUers, 
pot the least of which is that it was the residence 
of William Caxton in 1470. and the place where 
he learned the art of printing, which he intro- 
duced into England a short time afterwards, and 
fherehy laid the foundation of that mighty power 
whidi has contributed so much to her greatness 
and prosp<nrity. 

In 1269, Cologne obtained f <r itself the "StapeU 
rie&l** (stt^Ie laws), whereby all goods arriiring 
at this port were transferred to Cologne vessels, 
and made to pay a high rate of duty for farther 
transit. The dignity and importance of this city 
had by this time become acknowledged over all 
Europe : it was called the " heilige stadt," or holy 
dty. Its merchants were highly privileged in 
England by Henry VI., who allowed them the I 
sole occupation of the Guild Hall. It niunbered 
within its walls 365 churches, and could send into 
the field 30,000 fighting men. But the hour of 
desolation was at hand,— the day of its decline 
was approaching. Commerce departed from its 
port, and sought a new road across the European 
0<mtinent, whilst Cologne itself bent in craven 
■ubserviency and menial sul|]ection to the blight- 
ing despotism and withering ^rranny of ecde- 
•iastical bigotry, which on three consecutive 
pooaslons trampled out its prosperity, annihilated 
Its commercial and social independence, and 
finally completed Its downfalL The first edict 
Issued by the persecuting churchmen within 
its sanctuary was against the Jews, who were 
bunted like wild beasts, and expelled with, 
out mercy. The second act of intolerance 
and persecution was the banishment of the 
weavers; and the third the exiling of Cie Fro- 
tegumts In 1618. In the case 9t tbo weaven, 



grated to Vervien, EIberfield,and Alx.Ui-Cbapello, 
whither they transferred their industry flrom an 
ungrateAil city, and where they established tbo 
celebrated cloth manufactories, stiU flourishing in 
and enriching these towns. The expelled Fro- 
testants setUed at Mulhehn, Dusseldorf, Elber- 
field, Crefeld, Solingen, and other places, where, 
as exiles and victims of persecuting bigotry, th^ 
raised establishments and promoted the aria of 
peace and industry, so true is it that persecution 
fails to effect its piupose, whilst it ever gives new 
sn>ength and energy to the emancipated victime 
of Its cruelties. In this period the church, or ratiier 
ecclesiastical body, reigned paramount, until the 
French Revolution destroyed its sinister influ- 
ence, laughed at its censures, whilst its well-fiDfld 
coffers were being emptied, itsiU-gotten revenues 
seized upon, its churches and convents plundered 
and secularised, and converted into stables ai^ 
warehouses, whilst the entire fabric of its strength 
was beipg crushed into atoms. 

The closing of the navigation of the Rhino, 
by the Dutch^ in the 16th century, was a great 
blow to the prosperity of Cologne. The 
removal of this impedhnent, in 1837, has 
greatiy tended to give a new stimulus to com- 
mercial enterprise and industrial develop- 
ment. Vessels daily throng her harbour, along 
which new quays and bonding warehouses have 
been erected a foreign conununication by sea la 
carried on and extending, whilst the didly In- 
creasing prosperity of the dty is behig added to, 
and strengthened by, the raflway comnmnlcfttlun 
with Paris, Antwerp, and Berlin, whose railroads 
converge at this point ; so that, if the blessfaigs uf 
peace be continued to Europe, Cologne of to-da|r 
bids fahr to rival the Cologne of the 12th, IStfa, 
14th, and 15th centuries, and again have her 
empty warehouses and stores filled with the akOI 
of industry, whilst her population increases in 
prosperity and happiness. 

Its objects of attraction are numerous, and 
widely spread abroad, but the tourfat win find 
his visits mudi facilitated by making them in 
the following order. 

The Cathedral (DomUrehi) Is one of the porest 
monuments of gothio architecture In Europe. 
The name of the great architect woo ''w^fMrJ 
the plui «A lOb&Jk wftmai^ \«Ri^ >ak>aisu 



tegumta m loiff. in toe case or me weavers, \ «vitoiitvcSkflCK«4M!H^Y&vn«tM9a5si!b.^««AWM^ 
i,700 loomt wen burned, tad tbe owmm emL \ Gwliaxd, ',fty;kfwai«B^'«G*»*^^^'^'^^**^^*^ 



78 



[li«iittl9 



I nothing ftirUMr is kmnm. The Indldiiig 
^rat proiJeoted hj th* ArctabJihop Engelbert Von 
Borg, and commenced by his saccessor, Connd 
Voo Hoehsteden, in 1248. The edifice is but a 
fracment of its designed proportions, whidi, if 
eanied oat, would have made it the St. Petor 
of gothio ardiitectnre. The whole length of the 
baUdlng at present is 400 feet (when finished it 
win be 611 feet), the breadth of the lower church 
161 feet, and the height of the outer gable at the 
west end, corresponding with it, amounts to 23 
feet. It is bunt in the tlbMpe of a cross; the 
arches are supported by four rows of 64 columns, 
nMeh, together with the half columns and the 
piUars of the porticoes, amount to 100. The four 
■central ones measure about 80 feet in circum- 
ference; each of the entire terminates in a 
cnpltal, ornamented in a peculiar manner. Of 
the two towers, or steeples, eadi of which was in- 
tended to be 600 feet high, one, whose height is 
rery inconsiderable^ stands on the north side* 
and the other, at present used as a belfry, is 
scarcely a third of its intended height. In this 
steeple is suspended the large bell, weighing 
25,000 lbs., and requiring the strength of 12 men 
to ring it. On its top stands the crane used by 
the workmen in drawing up the stones. It hat 
remained in its resting place for centuries, except 
on one occasion, when it was taken down ; but a 
riclent thimder-storm occurring immediately 
after, the citizens attributed it as a consequence 
of the removal of the crane, which they had in- 
stantly replaced again. The msjestic iAuAr, 
rising heavenwards, together with the surround, 
ing chapels, are the only finished portions of this 
Immense edifice. Beautiful in the extreme are 
the groups of tan columns standing there, like the 
trees of an ancient forest, only spUt at the cul- 
minating points in a crown of branches, and 
rising with their coUeagues in a pointed arch, 
almost inaccessible to the eye that would trace 
them. 

The late and present Kings of Prussia hare 
expmded in the space of eighteen years upwards 
of 220,000 thalers on the repair and preservation 
of tba building, rendered almostaruinby long ages 
of neglect. The restoration &c. is being effected 
in a masterly style, and the Drachenfel stoue of 
the exterior replaced by a species of volcanic 
cHgin, brought from Treves snd Andernaoh. 
la JifdStbe now king JUd the fonndation-itono 



of the new transept, and an association hM ' 
established, brandling aU through Europe^ ftr. 
the purpose of collecting subscriptions for tk9 
completion of the edifice after the original deiis% 
wliich, according to an estimate of tlie architxit 
Zfanhier, would take i876C,000 ; of this a mffllen 
doUars were coUected from 1842 to 1861. Tht 
sisle, nave, and transept were opened in Sep- 
tember, 1848, the two hitter portions beiaft 
covered in by a temporary wooden roofing, end 
on our visiting it in the Autumn of 1862^ tiM flvit 
windows of stained gluss, presented by the latt 
Kmg of Bavaria, were placed in thesouth aid* e£ 
the nave, and the one executed in 150f^ inth^ 
north aisle. On the wholes the transepf •* beiag 
now an but completed, ItispossOdefortheTisilor 
to form some exact idea of the real extent. TlM 
choir wUl fin the visitor with enthuslastio awei. 

The Pr0C&yt«ry in the choir, and tiM 
high altar, are works of a modem date, and 
we think accord but very in with the antiqno 
miO^^ <^^ solemn grandeur of the dome* 
Among the columns at the entrance there are 
two very fine marble statues, representing the 
Virgin and St. Peter exquisitely sculptured in the 
Italian s^le. The two tombs, in the choir, of the 
brothers Adolphus and Anthony, of Sdiauenberg 
(both of tbem Archbishops of Cologne), are fine 
statues of white marble, adorned with elegantly 
arranged foliage, and deserving of conriderabto 
attention as rich specimens of high art. The boan < 
tiAiUy stained windows have been refr osh e d 
and repaired, and the frescoes redecorated hf 
Stefaili, an artist of the Dusseldorf schooL The 
colossal gold-flowered sUtues of the Tvodm 
JposUa standhig agahist the columns arelln* 
specimens of the antique German plasters of th« 
fourteenth century, of which date also are the 
superbly carved stalls and seats. 

In the Chapd behind the high altar we be. 
hold the monument of the JTuree Khngs or 
Magi who came from the East to worship 
the Saviour, and present Him with gifts. This 
chapel was buUt by the Elector MsTiminan 
Henry of Bavaria, and the bodies of the three 
oriental kings or vrise men of the East were 
bestowed to it by Frederick the 1st, also caUed 
Barbarosa, who carried them off from St. Eus« 
torgio, after he had taken and plundered Milan* 
giving them to the Bainaldo, Archbishop ti 
Gotogne^ who acoompanied him, and hnd 



18 



ORAPBI* OF TBS XmUEB KIX€MB— BAOfOSTr. 



70 



Ito fliftt d^ in 1170. Theohest in which 
ii oompoBed of plate gold and aUven 
•aqnirilely engnred, with an endrcUng of mall 
mpported by pillart ; however, the rich 
I and exquisite decorations of this shrine 
carried oif and much injured during the 
flay <tf the Freach Revolution, at which period 
It was transferred for safe^ to Amsberg, in West- 
ffeaUa, and several of the Jewels sold, which were 
Mflaoed by paste or glass counterfeits. The 
. has two partitiona, the lower one of which 
' on dther side ahalf-rooflng, whOe the upper 
iawhol«one. The lower, and broader par- 
tWinn oointafaa the bones of the three kings whose 
Imdi tVP^BX (separated) in front, between the 
jajf-ioofing upon whidi you see^ in rubies, the 
Camper, Mdehhr, BaUhotr; these skuUs 
adorned with costly crowns of gold, dla- 
■mbA and pearis of six pounds wdght eadi, 
wUeh presents a ghastly contrast to the decayed 
■ad mouldering firagments of humanity they 



** Go to iho tomba irliera momffriurMt, 
nun (tf all their glory they are beraft* 
And all their hononn are no more." 

The puherlsed fragments of humanity feel not 
<Im ooatly gem nor glittering pearl; their adorn- 
■MBt ii but a hollow mockery of the tomb, which, 
whettier perpetuated by piety or superstition, is 
alike an imposition. In 1804, when the shrine 
wna brought back ttora Amsberg, many of the 
Jewaliand enamris had dissppesred, together 
Witti their vahiable crowns; th^ were repUoed 
bgr metals neatly wrought and gilt, partly by 
fi^^iMia, precious stones, enamels, and other 
tmamenfi ghrsn by the people of Cologne, and 
tiis shrine^ without the value, has mudi of its 
•vlglnal appearance. The front of the shrine 
lias insoribed on its surfhce the following insorl^ 
flon: 

"Cnpom SHietonim nenbant ble ten* Xi^oram 
Bs hla aablMtiim nlliU est, aliUbe looatnm." 

Itii asserted, though we think without truth* 
tiiat this tomb and its predous ornaments are 
worth iB240,000. 

On Sundays and holidays the shrine is open to 
the pnbUc, bat visitors desiring a dose exanUna- 
tSon of it had better apply to the sacristan and, 
by peying !)<%., a tldiet to admit self and friends 
will be giveo. Tidteta admitting to an inspeo- 
tlon of tlis dioir oofli 10V.« tod annpplledby 



the beadle. The ascent to the galleriesooetiSMji^, 
Between the high altar and the shrine of th« 
Three Kfaigs, under a slab in the flooring, If 
buried the heart of Biaryof Medids; andbefim 
the chi^ the tombstones and epithets of lit* 
arcbbishops of Cologne may be seen on the nuubto 
wbUb, the most remarkable of which itfe those oif 
Philip of Heinsberg, surrounded ^7 & numl 
parapet, and of Conrad of Hocksteden fa % 
bronse. 

Particularly remarkable and worthy of noties 
is the beautiftil old picture of 1410, representing 
the patrons of the dty, and the Three Kings ador- 
hig the divine babe in the centre, St. Ursula and 
her companions, the 11,000 virgins, with 8t« 
Gereon and his Theban legion on the othen. 
This painting was removed from the Hdtd dt 
Ville in 1816, and placed in its present position !■ 
the Chapd of St. Agnes, on the right of the 
Magi. The artist is not known, but he is 8ur« 
mised to have been Master William of Cologne^ 
or his piq>il Stephen. 

The Saeristy contains some interesting antl* 
quities, and splendid specimens of art and work- 
manship, in the shape of diurdi plate, shrinett 
gword of Justice used at the coronation of the 
emperors, carvings in ivory, archiepisc(^»al cross 
7ft. high, and several other ohjeots of interest. 

The visits will be well repaid by ascending th« 
gallery of the treforium, to see the stained 
glass, and also go out on the roof, firom whidi be 
will have a magnificent proqpect. 

The workshops should also be visited, 20 tgr.^ 
entrance. The three great windows are of rich 
stained glass. 

The Church qf St. Peter. Rubens, who wag 
baptised in this diurdi, in the braxen font still 
existing there, painted for it its cdebrated altar, 
piece— the Crucifixion of the Apostie, with hit 
head downwards. This painting Is reckoned as 
one of his masterpieces. The picture generaOj 
exposed is merely a copy, but a fee of 15 tgr, for 
a party, will induce the sacristian to revene 11^ 
and at the bade is displayed the originaL 

The Church of St. Ursula^ famous by the 
legend of her and her 11,000 virgins^ wai 
erected partly in the 12th, 14th, and 16th oen- 
turies. Thesfaigularityofitsardiitectureiawsil 
worth attention, and the entire church is nmtij 
filled with bonea. On the right hand. 



CBomoBM or «r. mabu, awamua, jam tmnatKi. 



a 



Ufiolft tadftCnr of lur fMoand Mioolatetlto 
in rq)OM in ooffliis bshind tht altar, tht bont« 
arstecaaad in direr, and among the relici pointed 
oat .in this diambcr, is one of the atone veieda 
wed at the marriage feast in Gana, and in wUdi 
the water was tamed into wine. The relirs in 
this churdi are hideoas, bones everywhere meets 
the eye^ and are disposed in ghastly array in glass 
easfs about. The history of this c^iUdlah legend 
Is painted in the choir, and represents the saint 
as the daughter of an English king, who, on her 
return from Bome, was murdered at Cologne} 
together with her 11,000 companions. 

The Church qf 8t. Maria in Capitolio is the 
oldest in Cologne. Flectrudis, the consort of j 
.Popin, of Herstel, who separated flrom her 
huebacd in consequence of bis attachment to 
Alpais, the mother of Charles Bfartel, founded 
■this establldunent, and built the chnrdi. Her 
stone statue is behind tlie du>ir, in the street; 
but ber tomb is in the churdi before the 
dioir «nd has a copious Latin inscr^en. Over 
against this tomb is that ot St. Ida, who was a 
relation of Flectrudia, and the first abbess of the 
0itabllshment The \q;>per part of the choir, with 



hb waniora. The soulli of tlieas marCgfn aft 
exhibHed in tlie elnirdi. Beneath the dmrd^ 
In the cfypta, or vault, there are two rhapela, on 
whose floor traces of ancient moealc are vtalUp* 
The altars at the entrance of the churdi an 
adorned with two good paintings by grfmett and 
Oeldorf^ artists of Cologne. 

The Church of St. Ctmibert, near the VUat, 

is QMUsious, beantiAi], and has a line per^eottff. 

The altar is c<mstructed after the pattern of that 

of St. Peter's at Rome. The gate has a tee 

firame in the last style of the 12th century. Tl|l 

Tiunba of St. Cunlbert, which <»ioe was so rf. 

markable, has been scandalously mutiJatad «nd# 

the dominion of the French. Some years ago 

the steeple of this church feU down. The tns 

glass paintings in the cbohrarewdl wrath seeing* 

The Church of the Apostles, near the new msr* 

ket, is likewise a beautiftil tld German buUdfaig 

of the 11th century. An aacension of the Hoty 

Virgin, by Hubmann, and the martyrdom of- St. 

Catharine by Pottgiesser, deserve to be notieed; 

as also does the fragment of a lent doth, woven 

by Lady Richmod MengiSy of Adodit, to whidi 

is annexed the tradition of Richmodis» of the 

the round arched cd^mades, is of the 8th century ; I funOy of the Lisq^hskirdien (Lyakirchen), wh» 



the pxindpal vault of the nave was bunt later, 
this churdi having been damaged considerably 
during the inroada of the Normans. Several 
paintings were removed to this church firom that 
of St. Martin, of iidiich that by Augustin Braun, 
an excellent painter of Cdogne, and contem- 
porary of Rubens, is highly deservfaig of being 
noticed. This church also possesses a large and 
excellent organ by the late Mr. Koenig, the dder; 
the cdebrated artist of Cologne, who also built 
the organ of Nimwegen. The Church of St. 
Haria is new, and built in an elegant antique 
style, ornamented with painted windows. You 
may also see in it an excellent painting by Duerer 
(representing the dispersion of the Apostles and 
the death of BCaria), wUdi by a lucky aoddent 
was found in the loft of the diuroh, in a heap of 
old rubbish. 

The Church of St. Qereon, and the Thebaic 
Martyrs was buUt by the Archbishop Anno, in 
1066, on the spot on which the temple built by 
8t. Helena formerly stood. It recdved, at a later 



was buried alive, and by a pecuUar accident saved 
herself from her coffin, and aftowarda lived 
many years with her consort very hiqNtilj* 

The Churth q^ Maria A»cen$ion, or the late 
diurch of the Jesuits, though built in a mixed 
style, half ancient German, and half modem 
has many ornaments in the insideb cspe- 
dally * splendid communion pew, with 
arabesks and bas.reIieA of white marble. Tbare 
are some paintings by Schuett on the hi^ alla^ 
The walls of the choir are adorned vrilh laii^ 
scapes. The marble flooring^ the patpit, and 
the organ are handsome. Contiguous to the 
church stands the late college of the JesnUa, In 
which there were a valuable library and ridi 
cabinets of artificial curiosities. The French 
carried off the most valuable artides: among 
others a volume of letters, in Leilnitxe*s own 
handwriting, to the Jesuit Brosses; the mosl 
valuable minerals; about 1400 pieces of Greek 
and Roman coins ; a pretty complete coUectioB 
of sUver and copper coins of the middle age; • 



period, a large, boldly executed cupola with three ! munbor of antique bowls, vases, urns, imagsi, 

yjlsriesy and is one of the finest churches in I &o ; an invaluable collection of more than ^t^ 

.CaUi^ne, St, Gonoa Um bvai$d here, alongwtth ^ «nc\|^i&i^ dn.wV'MS^^ft ^Qaa ta^iA. <»Jtf%intaA.«iAli4 



fioiite 1^ CHUBcn of st. pahtalbott, towst hall, thsatre, palace of justice, si 



of aO schools; and a sinillfir collection of ancient lower one in the Corinthian style. Handsonw 



CBgrttvings. There exists a printed catidogue of 
the latter collection, that was sent to Paris, and 
ivtomed hi a very defectiTe state 

There are some of the other churches and 
(diapels (not mentioned here) that may hare hecn 



bas-reliefs adorn the interstices. The other parts 
of the building are less deserving of praise. From 
the steeple, the shape of which is rather singulaTf 
you have a charming view of the town and its 
environs. One pair of stairs high, on your right 



bnilt at the time when the christian religion was j hand, you enter the spacious hall of the onoe 
Introduoed on the banks of the Rhine, and flir- j powerful Hansa, with ancient German stone 
nish fine specimens for a history of ancient images. The anti-room of the council-chamber 
German architecture. Others there are that are \ is adorned with some pictures by Mesquida, re- 
ftdDUurkable in other respects. Iri the Church of ! presenting, scenes of the history of Cologne; of 



at, PoHtaleon (of 954) there is the tomb of the 
Smpress Theophauia, the consort of Emporor 
Otto II. They also preserve in this church the 
nooomipted body of the martyr Albinus. The 
body of the fiunons Duns 8ootus, who died at 
Cologne fai 1S08, whose manuscripts, In 14 folio 



the Ambassadors of the Ubians before Caesar ; the 
wedding of Agripphii; Emperor Frederick U, 
granting the stapleright to the town, a. s.f. The 
council-chamber is ingeniously decorated with a 
representation of the last Judgment, by Soentgena 
(1695), and a crudflx of the school of Rubens. 



▼ohmies, were in the possession of the Biinorites, ! On the groundfloor there is a spacious hall called 



b bnried in the diurch that formerly belonged to 
thdr order. The churches of St. Severin and 
St. Goeris (George) are very old, but defaced by 
many coloured jMdntings. In the former, the spot 
<m which the Emperor Sylvanus was murdered 



I 



the muschel (shell), with fine Goblin tapestry, in 
which many landscapes by Wouvennann are in- 
geniously introduced. The whole produces a 
strildng effect. 
It has a hall of an enormous size, in which 
is marked with marble figures inserted into the J several diets were held. The emperor ManimilJan 
flooring; and connected with the latter you ' gave several entertainments in this hall, which of 
behold a tower of enormous thickness, which the I late years has served for a ballroom, at the con* 
ArdiUshop Anno placed right before the upper elusion of the splendid carnival, 
and older town gate, to keep the citizens of ! The T%eatre — The hiner arrangement is 
Cologne fai awe, who were disaffected to hhn. | tasteAU (havfaig the playhouse of the grand doke 
The Lis, or Lisolph's Church, Is remarkable for ; of Darmstadt for a pattern). It was built in 



the andent tomb of Matemus ; the painting of a 
lateral altar, by John Von Calcar, who learned 
his art at Cologne, and afterwards became a 
impU of Titian, has been removed. The remains 
of the fttmons Albertus Magnus were deposited 
In the dinrdi of the Dominicans, which has been 



1828. The company act at Cologne only in 
winter, in summer alternately at Bonn and 
Coblcnz. 

The Pwlaee o/ JuiUcef the foundation of whidi 
was Uiid fai 1824. The town has built it at ita 
own expense ; it contains the court of appeal, the 



pulled down since. Spacious barracks for The ' court of province, and the board if trade. The 



artillery now occupy the ground on which it stood. 

AU cloisters, pious foundations, and other cor- 
poratiooaJn Cologne were secularised by the late 
French government ; many paHah churches went 
to decay ; oihen were removed to finer churches 
formerly belonging to cloisters or other pious, 
foundations ; some also were turned into manu- 
factories and magazines or demolished. The 
handsome, though plain church of the Antonites 
was given to the Lutheran and reformed congre- 
gations. 

Town HdJL — ^It has a fine marble portal, con- 
flating of a doable arcade, one placed over the 



palace of the regency does not lie tbx firom it. 
The archiepiscopal palace stands in what ihqr 
call the Zuydwick. 

Strangers will have, fkrCher, to notice, the 
Wox4c and Charily-house, in the later eloister'of 
the Mhiorites ; the Military Hospital, in the cloister 
of the Carthusians, for 300 patients, in twenty- 
four roomy saloons; the Hospital for Citizens* in 
the doister of Coe'Hlia and Michael, hi which 160 
poor persons, belonging to the town, are admitted 
and taken care of. The hospital can receive 
about idxty patients, and as many hunuah^V^ ^saaEiah.. 



•tfi«r, the ivper one be&v in the Roman and tAiQ \ »fiS\>ut%V T:>Dte «<cW6AfflassuX\a ^»^^ 



«2 



OBVBAV HOUOB— KUaiUX— DBU1S. 



ptontelS 



ph jridaa, a rargwni, and an apotlitoaiy of Its 
own. The anmudn^eDditareaaKMrnti to about 
19.000 doUari. The Orphan Houe^ in the 
WalaenhansgaflM (Orphan Hoosm Street^ No. 
38, at the end of the Bknhach), for 900 orj^hans 
and f oundlingt, that are brought up and educated 
hereOromOtolOyeari— ITyean. A work school 
has alao been eeUblkhed here; 1^1001826, 11,600 
dollars upon an aTenf e, are expended annnaUy 
on thlf eitabliahment. The House of Correction 
(near the New BCarket, commonly oaUed in der 
Bleohen Buets) can, in etghty nnaU and larger 
appartmcnu, reodTO 820 prisonen. The Lying- 
in. Hoipital, at the western end of the Comes- 
dienstrasse, where about 160 poor lying4n women 
are dellTcred gratis annually ; connected with this 
institute is an establishment for the instruction 
of mididyes. for about forty persoos^ who lodge 
in the house. The establishment costs about 
6,000 Prussian dollars a year. The Barr adcs, in 
the doisters of the Dominicans and Observants, 
In the Weidenbach and the abbey of 8t. Panta- 
leon.— In the Stemgasse (Star Street), you see 
the Jabadiisehe House, in which Catherine of 
Madlds resided; Jabach was a great lover <tf the 
arts and a collector.— Le Brun had painted him 
and his family in a large picture. 

The Mtueum is situated close to the Cathedral, 
and contains a very good collection of paintings, 
the production of a school all but unknown up to 
the present century. 

The^ottie^tAe 7<0«^>2ars;intheBhengaase, 
is used as an exchange. The Catino Is dose to 
the Theatre, and has ball and reading rooms 
attached to it. 

In the house No. 10, Struengasse, was bom 
Subens, in 1677, and in it died MaiU de Medici, 
in 1642. 

Of tiie environs of Cologne Deute (Duit, 
Tultium) deserves particular notice. The on- 
peror Constantino bidlt a oastle here in the fourth 
centory, which ia described in andent documents 



under the aaaia of m^«»«<i>— *tflm BatiflDsa. 
Deuta and Cologne were at that timaoonnaeted 
by a bridge^ which was demolished by the ardi- 
Uahop Bruno in the 10th century, along with tihe 
oastle. The works around Bmita were^ at a 
later period, rebuilt several times, and for the 
last time demolished hj the Austrians in 1678. 
Since Deuta Is in the possesion of Fmssia, it has 
been again strongty fortified. There are four 
large woricshops of the artillery, that are worth 
the notice of travdiing military gentlemen. The 
late abbey of Benedictines lies on the SUneand 
has a charming aqjMCt. It was founded faoi 1061 
by the doctor Heribert, a count of Rothenbnrg. 
The little town prospered by caRylnf on a 
smuggling trade to the left bank of the BUnSk 
undsr the French dominion. Bentxberg, the 
late Palatine chateau, lies three leagues from 
Deuta. It has beautiftd aUegorleal and mytho- 
logical platfounds, painted by eminent masters; 
the views from the vindows and the cupda are 
particularly charming, and the horizon extends 
to 18—20 German miles. The individual spots 
that here present themselves to the eye^ are ss 
various as they are pleasantiy arranged. 

A trip fr<nn Cdogne to the abbey of altenberg 
wiU be found interesting. It Is 2| leaguea distant 
from it, in the direction b^ond Muebldeim in a 
beautifiil, solitary valley, on the banks of the 
Duehn, a considerable mountain torrent. A 
pleasant excursion may also be made from 
Cologne to Bruehl. 

BaUroads to Aix-la-Chapdle and Bdgium. 
Express trains from Col0f{ne to Paris momtaig 
and night in 16 hours. To Duisddorf ; to Min- 
den and Berlin; to Bonn. For infomiat>on 
respecting the Bfalne Steamers see advertisement 
in Bradthaufi ConUnenUA Ouidc, pagea 144 and 
146. The description of the journey from 
Cologne up the Bbine is continued at page 92..- 
Boute21. 



SEOIIOH IL 



THE RHINE. 



PASSFOATS—nmS 



THE RHINE 



PASSPORTS.— No periKm is permitted to travel in Oermaaj without being prorided with t^ 
Paasport, which he is bound to produce whenever required so to do by the police. If visiting i^ 
large town and purposing to sleep there he must exchange his passport for a receipt, (sdiein) in order 
that it be forwarded to the police-bureau to be vise. On the production of the schien or receipt, 
he'receives back the passport. In small towns, the passport is only delayed a couple of minutes 
during the reg^istry of the bearer's name, after which it is at once returned. Innkeepers are bouna 
to submit the names, professions, age, reMglon, and motives for travelling, &c. of all the victors 
who may arrive at or depart firom their hotels. And the better to ensure attention to this nd^ 
a stranger's book called " das Fremden Buc^ is kept at each hotel, in whldi the traveller is required 
to entor all the necessary particulars. 

The traveller should also be cautious to understand and comply with the reg^ilation that requires 
him, under a severe penalty, to send or take to the police office, before he has been two days in the 
town, the ticket which he received at the gate, when if he so requires, he will reoelTO a permisdon 
of reddence for any fixed period, at the expiration of which the permliteion can be renewed. 

On leaving the town the passport is returned to the traveller, and should be vlsd by the police, hit 
own Ambassador, and by the representatives of the States he may have to pass through. The traveller 
ahonldnever pass from one state to another without adopting this course; and on leaving a great capital 
where are resident Ambassadors from the several dominions through whldi his Joumoy liea^ ho 
should secure the signature of all these ministers to his passport, particularly if bound for Italy or 
any part of the Austrian dominions, as no one is ever permitted, on any f^refenee or eondUian, to cnm 
the AuttrknfronUer vHthowt the tignature of iome Atutrian Ambauador, 

INNS.— In Germany the innkeepers are of asuperlor dass in life, and general^ of obliging and 
kind mannen. They preside at their own tables d'bdte^ and their conversation is almost invariably 
found intelligtni and agreeable. 

TravelUrs intendhig to rematai a week or longer at an hotel, should make an agreement befov». 
hand with the bmdlord, who will generally abate oncthird of the charge. Tafalea dliMo tiekets eaa 
also be pnrdiased much cheaper when taken by the score or dosen. In Oenmuiy, i^artmenti hi 
boteli are charged for according to size, accommodation, and the story in which thqr are attnated; 

AVSBAQS ChaROIS MADE AT HOTKLS Dl PftUSSIA. 

Fnnklbrt, 
Dollan. Silver grot. Samun, fiadsn, ftou 

B.d*«m^«rytog«c«dlng) ,^j^j,^j3_ from 1 f. 12 to. to M to. 

to slie and situation. y 

Dinner at table d'hdte 16 to 20— If. tolf. 48kr. 

in private room, from Itol 10— 1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 30 kt. 

Tea or coffee^ a portion for one 6 or 6 — 24 kr. to 80 kr. 

Breakfast iUfoorohette.. ^...15- S6kr.to4ak>. 

Half a bottle of wine ...» •».» 5 — - — ^ ^« 



[BiMtelt 




»■■■■■■■■■■—■■■< 



at tabto dlikt^ fsrety k« ttMi 1 fl4 cfta 1 fl. 1ft kr. on 

jl fla 39 fct'i m ■■■■■«■■■ mm ■■■■■■■■■»■■»■■■—■■■■»« — ■■■■■■■«■■■»■»»■■■■■«■■■■■ ■ * 



AnNMff cmoMl BO Hm^ cucpt 



MUoTdock. 

toafkmQf 
in 



tlM 

lordoek:ki 



«bo 



aorSoTdM^i 



19 



idki 



inaaliiiGcnDai^. Tnvdkn on At BUBS riMMid 



flDT 



«oBolterd«M« 



The PM±ett on lUt fUtton, 
of ATtry nqyerior 



Bowniostty 
coipMnhiy 



tfonablo aceommodatlon for paMon^en, faMind- 
lnffprtiratoftat«e«biotforfkmOiM. Th^IoaTO 
St. Katharinera Wharf for Bottardam, erery 
▼adnaktoj, Saturday, and Sondaj moniing, 
rotnming from Rotterdaoi the fame days of the 
wcdc, and they generally perform the paaaage in 
18 or 26 houri. Thia Rente ia patronised by a 
great number of penom^ who prefer going the 
whole diatanoe by water, to that of part aea paa- 
sage and part Railway. Haoea ean be taken at 
the London oflBoea of the oon^ianlea IhMn London 
for any towna on the Rhine, aa finr aa Bade, at 
Tory moderate fkrca; and in booking throughout 
pataengenhaTe the advantage <tf being permitted 
to atop at any place they pleaae on the Rhine, 
and of proceeding on theb journey without the 
leaat additional charge. Tlie Rhine boata of the 
Dnateldorf and Cologne CompanieB, in oonneo- 
tion with the General Steam Bafigation, are the 
fkateet and moit comfortable. 
^miw Pig Bott&rdKXk :«to SniMldorf; ehief 



oabin, «1 14b. Od.; five oAta^ «1 ta. M4 to 
Coklgn^ m. 16b (M4 A\ la.Odmo rnMnw. 
«2 Ca. Sdn iBl Sb. 2d4 to Wletbaden, iB2 te. 6d., 
£1 6a. 10d4 to Mayenoe» iB2 4a. 4d , ^1 fls. M ; 
to M a nnhefan , £2 7b. 8d., if 1 6a. lOd^ to Badea^ 
^3 lea. Od., ill laa. Cd ; to Straaberg, iB8 Ita. ed.. 
Ml 148. lOd; to Baele, iBS 7a. M., iB2 Ca. M^ 
indnding Baden railroad and ffiDigeaee fern. 

In the northern prorinoea of HoDand than m 
neitiier moonta'nB nor hiPa to rdieretfie eye h«m 



the monotony of one flat Borikce; and 
viewed from the top of a tower or ateepla, tht 
country H»peari like a vaat marahy plain, inter, 
aeetedinalldirectionabyan infinity ofearndb 
andditchea. The proapectis not howerer, alto, 
gather uninteresting, though wanting In wtat 
we deem the flrat features (rfpioCttreaqne beantyg 
as it ezhilytta vast meadows of the f^eaheat vcr. 
dnr^ and cov ered wittinnmeroua berda of cattle. 
TlienumerottBbarkapasBfaig in every direction 
alao tend to enliven the scene, and the eloaa 
ancoeasion of ftmns, viDages^ and towns^ sihaw 
at once tbe industry and wealth of the oonntry. 
The Maaa ia tlie estuary wlaieh condnrta tte 
greater portion of the waters of the Rhine and 
Meuse into the aea. At its month there is a bnr 
wUeh caaaca veaseb nmch Aw^tmo^ io ^mm\ 



■iottlSJ 



87 



MP fi rMlj In > low tiJa, nhm Ifaqre fa only 7 feet 
«f water to nil in. Entering the Hmmb, we eee 
t» flie kit the Hock van Holland, a landy bank 
■ tee fchhy Into the lea. 

TO the left we see Breille, a fortifled town 
of small dimenelons, aitaated on the right tMUik 
of the river as we ascend the stream. It is 
edebrated as being the birth.plaoe of Admirals 
Tromp and de Witt. At this point the ressel is 
boarded by the officers of eostoms, who examine 
Ihm afa^'s papers and doee the hold of the tcsscI. 
It was taken fhMn the Spaniards by the Dntdi ki 
157% William de la Marck commanding the 
Water Gnensen at the attsdL This town was 
delivered to the English in 1585, In whose hands 
it lemsined ontfl 1616. At this point we find a 
fttry across the Msas. We arrire at the en- 
tnaee of the New canal, which is 5 miles fdrtiher 
np than BreQle. This canal has proved an invahu 
aUe aid in the navigation of the river. It bisects 
tho Ifllaad of Voom, and enables vessels of large 
iMirden to avoid the risk incurred by entering at 
the month of the Ifaas, firom wfaidi place they 
can pass into the large and commodious harbonr 
of HdgevoetslniSy where we see aroyal dodc ani 
affsenaL It was from here WQliam in. set sail 
l<or Engkmd in 1688. It is the chief naval port 
for the Dntdi In the sooth, and may be looked 
npon In reference to Rotterdam and the month 
of the Bhine and Mense^ In the same light as 
tiM Holder Is to Amsterdam andthe Zoider 2See. 
VxAAMDniaar is seen on the ri^t higbsmp^ 
and Is the diief station for the herring fishery of 
Holland, In whidi a hundred or more vessels are 
engaged ananalty. The fishery season lasts from 
the andof June to the 1st of November. The 
diartering of the herring fleet is an intvesting 
aHUr; some time about the middle of June the 
ofllesn to be employed assemble at the 8tadhul% 
or Town Han, and take an oath ef fidelity to the 
laws of the fishery conventkm. After this they 
raise their flaga» generally on the 14th of Jnne^ 
and proceed to the dinrdi to aaiist at the service 
specially celebrated for the occasion, with the 
ol^eet of praying for a fruitful season. The 15th 
of June, on wfaidi day they wdgh andior. Is 
fcneralty kept as a gala day devoted to amuse- 
0ient and feasting. The first fruits of the ezpedi* 
tJonareUxtodfor with modi anTJonsegpectatien, 
watdunen being placed on the Vhardingen 
fMple to kMp • look o«it fiar tbe TWMl wUck fa 



I de sp atch ed home wiUi die first fish taken. Aeavf* 
of herrings reollies about 800 florin^ and ttm 
King and hfa Mfaiisters are presented witli tte 
first k^s. 

Cloeer to Hotterdam, sitoated at a dfatanat 
firom the river sid^ fa Sddedam, widi U^MO 
inhabitants. Thfa place fa flonous for its dtatB*' 
leries^ with the reftise of wfafah up w a rds of 30^W> 
pigs are fed annually. Ithastheappearaneeof#« 
huge forgei, wUdi vomits, every mfanite^' 
ofsmok^ that covers the townlnaUaek 

Rotterdam fa neztseenatatnmoftfierifer. 
TheMaasfaflidng the town, and fa firom 40 to 
45 feet deep, thus enaUing vesMb of the fatfsrt 
tonnage to moor dose to ttw honecs. Tfa* 
steoHMrs land their pawsiingfni on the qamj. It 
fa a very fine one and singular^ picturesque^ kt 
consequence of the large aveone of beaotlftd etass 
whidi stretdi along its banks, oArlng a deH^itftl 
shade. These trees give the quay its name 
Boon^9es,whidi means little trees. Onthfaqoagr 
fa situated the Custom Honse^ to wfaidi tiw' 
passengers' luggage fa conveyed for ezandnatles. 
It also serves as a fkvoorite promenade fer the 
inhabitanta, and has ritoated on It some saed 
lent houses, and many of the best hotels. 

B«ttcrdjMi.— Hotds : 

Bdtel des Psys Bas^ one of the best In Holhuii* 
HAtd des Baln% also a good house. 

Rotterdam fa k>cated on the fiftat beak of ttt 
Maas with a population of 83^600. ThefiBOKoC 
the town fa that of a triangle^ made up of aboufe 
an equal proportion of streets and canali^ tfie 
ptfaM^al of the fatter being the Lenve, Onde^ and 
Nievue^ whieh disdiarge tbemsdves into ths 
Maas^ and serve as a medium of oommunieatloa 
betireen that and the several other cnab fej 
^lidi the town fa intersected. 

The visitor to Rotterdam, for the first thne^ 
win be surprised at the large number of draw-- 
bxidges keqiing up a communication. Th» 
cana]% crowded with veaseto disdiarging 
cargoes at the very doors of the diops and 
houses^ win appear quite ss dngular. Tbnib tiM 
eoiy communication with the sea has ooBtrflmtad 
Isrgdy to swdl the tide of pru s p ei U af fiov 
Rotterdam. It has ooostanQy en^loyed in 
the serviee of its fisrdgn 
ei^itj merchant sUps^ wUdi maka ifa^ 
■ff« la ia4 



ROTTERDAX— K3HUSCH OF ST. LAWKKSTCB— SZCHAHGK. 



[RonlcrU 



oilier foreign tnde is with Bsterla, Iwt a 
good trafile it mlao maintained in the prodms 
tioos of the East. Its corn and provision 
tndes are also very great, wliilst its doAjards 
iopplied with timber tnm the n^er parts of 
Qormany c<mtignoas to the Bhine, make it tlie 
•eat of a bosj indnstry in sliip4Niilding. 

TIm appearance d the town, its nordl and 
attracthre combination of tree^ bridges^ water, 
and Teasels; its old houses overiiangfaig their 
foon d ati o nas if abont ftJMng in mins; ttssliops 
and the semi4iarbaroiis images in thdr front, 
together with its many other peculiar scenes 
and customs, will senre to amuse the viritor who 
snters it for the first time, mndi better tlian any 
jOQgthened description we ean giro of its btdld- 
ings and institutions. Tlie high street called 
BooffitnuUf is boilt upon an enormous dyke or 
dam, whidi stands at the Junction of the Rotte 
stream, from whence is derived the name Rot- 
terdam, and Maas. The town is Intersected by 
tUs dyke, between which and the quay Bocmp- 
Jei, the most modem part of the town is built 
on ground gained from the Maas. 

The chief object of attraction in Rotterdam 
is the bronze statue of Erasmus, standing on a 
bridge of considerable width, which spans a 
canal, and on which is held a market. The 
house in which Erasmus was bom, in 1467, is 
now a gin shop, and is seen in the Breede Kerk 
Straat : it bears the following inscription— "Hie 
eat parva domus, magnus quA natus Erasmus.** 
Bis real name was Gerrit-Gerritz, which he 
dianged into Desiderius Erasmus. 

The Church of St. Lawrence, called the 
Groot Kerk, is a structure of the 15th century, 
being built in 1 472. Its architectural proportions 
are much neglected and even mutilated, but still 
preserve a very fine appearance. It Is surmounted 
by a tower, from which can be obtained an excel- 
lent view of the town and surrounding country, 
which like atl scenes in Holland, is varied and 
pioturesque, presenting a combination of wood 
and water, avenues and farm- yards stretching 
along a Angularly level horizon, but broken by 
an occasional church spire or windmill peering 
through the distance. This church contains a 
large number of monuments, among which 
are those of admirals de Witt and Codener, 
erected by the states-geanenl. The organ 
w/zr sttrm^ '~'^ on aoconnt of Ita 



immense aiae and iweet tone? it has 6^500 plpei^ 
91 stops, and its largest metal p^ is 36 ftc* 
kmg, and 17 faidbes in diameter. It Is 90 ftet 
high, and considered superior to the orgsa of 
Haarlem. The <Hrgani8t wiH play it on the oeea- 
sion of ai^ visit, on being paid ten gilders. 

The E»^anffe, over whidi, in a r«tem, is aftM 
collection of philosophical instruments. The 
Town HaU or Stadkms b a fine bnildhig, having 
a composite portico. The house formerly occu- 
pied by the East India Company, near the Hotel 
dee Fays Bas, will interest. The dock-yard* 
though small, is worth a visit, and can be seen by 
an order from any respectable housekeeper. In 
it is preserved the stem of the Royal Charloi^ 
whidi was taken by the Dutch in 1667. T%e 
collection of pictures bequeathed to the town by 
M. Boymans, can be seen daily, except Mondag* 
by paying a small fee. 
English is gmerally spoken. 
The Engliih Church is on the east side *of the 
Hamig-blut, and has emblazoned <m its p<Mtal» 
the arms of Queen Anne and of the DiAa of 
Marlborough. 

The Scotch Preihytericm C%urdk Is Mi the 
Schottiche D\}k. There are many places of 
amusement in the suburbs, such as tea gardoM^ 
hi which are bOliard-rooms and akitUe-gronnd^ 
&c. The public walk, outdde the eastern g$tB, 
called the Flantage, is much frequented : and 
there are also several dubs, to whidi itrangcrt 
are admitted on being introduced by * membci^ 
and in whidi English as well as oonttnetttal 
newspapers are taken. 

Pott Office (Net Post Kautoor), is dtoated on 
the Nynhaven, in the Wynstratt. 

TrekiAenten or dray boats ply every hour to 
Delft and the Hague. 

DUigenees daily to ITtredit, ISymegen, Gonda, 
Antwerp, and Breda. Steamers to Nym^en 
every morning in summer and every seecmd 
morning during the winter months. 

Steameri daily to Moerd^k in three hours; to 
Middleburg, hi Zealand, in nine; to Dort, twice 
daily. Daily to Gonda and back. To Havre and 
Dunkirk six times a month. To London erery 
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday ; to Antwerp 
daily, in from eight to ten hours ; to Boisle Duo 
daily, in ten hours ; to Hull once a week. For 
the hours of sailing and frirther particuhOi. tm 
Brodihaw^t Continental Guide. 



IUnilel9] 



BRnae (a>— DOBT— «omo cBu«cB--yTinEGS!r. 



From M«M to KAteadreoht a ferry boat plies 
erwy hatf boar, &re 15 oents. Here the left 
bank of the Mmmm is formed by an iaiaiid eaOed 
jyswlmoiide, and whidi, though on\y fifteen miles 
in length, by seven in width, is sonromided and 
intersected by dykes to the extent of 2000 miles 
in length. 

Route 19. 

TBS amnB (a.) 

Rotterdam t« NyinrKeB. 

The Toyage from Rotterdam to Nvttegen 
generally occupies twelve hours, and if for a 
p^rty, where there are tereral ladies, the itatt 
eobin should be engaged. 

The " Waal*' is the hurgest of the arms into 
which the Rhhie ^Tides itself on reaching 
Holland. 

Leaving Rotterdam, we Ihrst pais on the left, 
the guard-ship, and Feyenoved, the seat of a 
large engineering and foundry establishment, 
where we see the banks tX both rides dotted with 
numerous picturesque villas and summer resi- 
dences. At the Spaniavd*s-Diep, windmills, cot- 
tages, and sh^yards are seen, and at this point 
the Lek johis the Mass. 

DOKT OB DOBTSBCHT.— Imis : 

Bdtovne. 
GondeLeenm. 
Wapen von America. 

Dort lirituated on the left bank,on the expanse 
ofibelCaas. It has a population of 21,000 inhabi- 
tants, and is the seat of a oondderable trade. It 
was here met, in 1572; the first assembly oi the 
statcs-genoral, after Holland had revolted from 
the Spanish yoke. By one of its decrees; the 
Prbioe of Orange was dedared governor of the 
country. 

The funoQS assembly of Protestant divinesi 
\ nown as the " Synod of Dort** was held here in 
1618-19, in the house now called Klove-niers 
Doclen. The room in which this celebrated 
qmod was held is still preserved unaltered, though 
(rften used as a ball-room. Its ritUngs lasted six 
months, and numbered 152, the upshot of whidt 
was to confirm as the established faith, the Cal- 
vinistic dcetrine of Predestination and Grace, and 
condemn Armenlus and hte followers. The pre- 
lldeiit, in dosing the sittings, declared **tt8 
aniracuhws laboors bad made bell tremble.'* 



The GotMe CItttreh hat a beantiftil tqoaiv 
tower, and is remarkable for its exquiritdy canrc4 
white marble puU>it, its various monnmcnta, and 
massive gold cbnrdi ptote. The Mint will ah* 
repay a visit, as a building of the flfteenfli cen- 
tury. 

Dort is the chief station for the rafts (Sat 
Route 21 The largest East Indiamen can 
sail np to the quays at Dort. The country 
about te very low, and its every hollow is so ftill 
of water that fears are entertained that the 
entire should be swallowed by the waters, were 
the Rhine to rise even a few inches. SaiUnf 
through very intricate sandbanks, we arrive at 

GoBcvic, alias Gorhichitii, an antiquated town 
to the left, situated at the junction of the Meosa 
and linge, and b connected with Yianen on the 
Leek, by the canal of Frederick. This was one ci 
the first places taken fi^m the Spaniards by the 
water geusen, in 1572; who, under thdr diief 
officer Lumey, murdered nineteen Roman 
Catholic priests, for wbidi savage act he was 
degraded by the Stales General. Opposite Oofw 
cum, on the left, is Worcum, and we see also to 
the left 

The Casde of LoevesMn, fiunons as the 
prison of Grotius, 1609. It stands on a point of 
the island of Bommel. Grotius was concealed in 
a box by his wife, and so removed out of prison 
by his servant maid, who conv^fed it to Goremiy 
to the house of an Armenian friend named Jacob 
Daataelaar, where he was rdieved tnta hl$ 
narrow cell and escaped to Brabant. Madame 
de Groot was not long detained in prison, and 
so<m after rcjjoined her husband in Paris. 

BoMMXL, to the left, once a fortified plaee^ da- 
stroyed in 1629. 

Thibl, to the right, an agreeable little town, 
with 3,600 bihabitants, and funous as the birth, 
place of General Chasse. 

IVymeKen.— Hotels : 
H. I>es Pays Bays, (dear.) 
Plaats Royal. 
Hotel de Francfort: 

Rotterdam Wagen, firom where the diligeneaa 
start. 

Nymegen, called <n German Nyegem^ con- 

tains 24,200 faihabitants, and is situated on the 
left bank of the TFoal. It tea strongly-defended 
frontier town, buflt on the slope o< ^h* VSS^ 
Hoenderberi, wYmet^ iQM'ttJWBdna^^K^M^ ^ * 



90 



ttxmtm (bV-towit haia— ol sxbphjeh^s chcboh. 



L&DuteW 



tA defend their Btigko territoriei ageinet the I 
{.redatory invaeioDS of the Oermeiui. Fuiporti 
•retaken from trareUeni here, and ahouldbe 
again obtidned over night by those intending to 
atart early on the following morning. The i^rin- 
djpal buildings in JHy megen are the 

Teton HaUf a structure of the sixteenth 
oentury, having in front two rows of statues 
of the emperors of Germany who had in 
any way conferred privileges on or ben^tted the 
town. Its curiosities are the sword with which 
waa beheaded the Counts Egmont and Horn, 
portraits of the ambassadors who attended on the 
occasion of the signing of the treaty in 1678k 
between Charles II. of Spain and Louis XIV. 
and some Roman antiquities. 

St, SUpheris Chureft, a brick edifice of a good 
cruciform shape, erected 1272, is a pretty epeci- 
men of the Gothic style^ and remarkaUe for its 
andoit choir, in which stands the monummt of 
Catherine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of 
Egmont, Duke of Guilders. Her efOgy is exe- 
cuted in copper, and surrounded with devices and 
flguies of the Evangelists. On an eminence here 
stand fragments of the church of the castle of 
Valkenhof, destroyed by the French in 1794, and 
aaid to have been built by Julius Cnsar, and 
inhabited by Charlemagne. In addition to this 
fragment we see on the brow of the hill a circular 
chapel or baptistery, of the thhrteenth century* 
adjoining it is a very agreeable promenade sur. 
rounded by trees. Further up is the cafe called 
Belvidere. A very fine view is enjoyed from it, 
oomprising a good proq[>ect of the Rhine, Waal, 
and Ijssel, and the Maas on the south; good 
▼iewa may also be obtained firom Berg-en-dal, 
Beek,andUpbergen, oloseby. 

II y megen and its attractive spots can be ex- 
plored in two hours. 

IHUgmce to Amhehn four times didly, per- 
forming the Journey iu two hours, and meeting 
the railway trains to Utrecht and Amsterdam 
daily. Steamers to Cologne, down the Rhine, 
and to Rotterdam. 

BOXTTB 20. 

TBS RHnrs (b). 

Arnhclm to Cologne. 

The best course to adopt in this route is to 
proceed from Rotterdam to Amheim by rail; 
bat abovHA ptnowk prefer the Journey by water. 



each moming, which airivesal Cotogne to ab— t 
28 hours. A steamer also leaves Cotogne aft T 
a.m. for Arahelm, where it arrivea early enoi^ 
to permit the passenger to catdi the last trata 
ibenoe to Amsterdam. The steamboat wUeh 
starts from Amheim each morning at 6 a.iii. 
arrives at Cologne by 11 p.m., but should teurislt 
wish to disembark at Duisburg they will find a train 
start thence and arriving at Cologne at 6 p.m. 

The confluence of the Waal and the Loww 
Rhine, or Leek, the two branchea of the Rhine* 
takes place at about an equal distance of eight 
or nine miles above Nymegen and Aynhaim, 
Previous to sailing into the united waters ve 
should take a glance at the dams^ dykes^ and 
Jetties nuule up of earth and wicker work stretdi- 
ing along the shore, or into the river, and r^u- 
lating the course of the waters, and so governing 
them, that at all times, whether in flood or low. 
water, no more than two-thirds of the tribntariss 
should enter into the Waal, and only one-tUrd 
into the Leek. The importance of these hydranlie 
works cannot be over estimated, and on them 
depend the physical existence of Holland. They 
are watched over by engineers, who attend to 
the variations of the current and preserve a 
balance of power in the stream by throwing out 
new works when necessary. These works, and. 
the vigilence used by the engineers in strengthen- 
ini them, saved the country from being drowned 
iu the floods of 1784. 

At Aart a safety-valve is formed by a dam 
thrown across an old arm of the Rhine or aban- 
doned channel, into which the waters could be 
turned in case of a great rise of the Rhine. The 
Dutch and Prussian governments have settled by 
a convention, that the Rhine should be permitted 
an outlet through tills dam in the event of Ita 
waters at Amheim attaining a certain hdght, 
and in such a case a new passage to the sea would 
be formed for the Rhine in leas tlian five minutes^ 
which would suffice to sweep away the dam and 
its erections. 

LoBiTH is seen to the right, and marks the 
fh>ntiers of Holland and Prussia. Itia abo the 
station of the Dutch custom-house^ and the 
steamer, in her descent, is delayed an hour or 
more in the examination of baggage^ &c., 1^ the 
officers. Opporite Lobith is the now decayed 
fortress of Schenkenssohanx, once a formiddUt 
and much-priaed stronghold, reodmed inot^jMe^iMk' 



\ 



BoQte W\ 



EMMBRXOH— XAXTlON — ^DUSSELDOIir. 



M 



kyiti position on flie tongue of land stretchinf 
lato the RUne and fonned by the foridng of that 
river. From dose to this spot can be seen the 
towers and steeples of Cleres. The next im. 
povtant station readied is 

Bmmbbzoh (Ion : des Pays Bas) is situated on 
tlie rights and is the first Prussian garrisoned 
town we meet, with a population of 6,100. Itimhe 
seat of 0(msiderable industry, and has a very dean 
and neat appearance. The church of St. Aide- 
gund and the vtbuter, the oldest, on the right 
banlc of the Bhine, are the only objects of attrae- 
tiTO interest. Here an examination of baggage 
takes place by the custom.house officers, and 
the passports are asked for and viti by the police. 
Starting from Emmeridi, we see the small town 
of Bees, on the right arm. 

Xasthbh, on the left, remarkable for its double 
q>fa?ed church, and as bdng the ooslra vUira of 
the Bomans. It has a population of 3,600, and 
tradition renders it memorable as being the spot 
where the emperor Maximilian had beheaded 
8t Gereon, and the Thebian legion. 

Weskl (Inn: Domsbosd) is situated at the 
eonfluence of the Lippe and the Bhine, diagon- 
ally opposite an artSfldal island formed in 1786, 
by a eat of the river, and is the diief stronghold 
of the north-west firontier of Prussia. It oon- 
tains 13,300 inhabitants, and is the emporium of 
a very active trade. Here the Rhine is crossed 
by a bridge of boats, and is divided in two arms 
by the isbmd of Biiderich. The Bathaus is the 
only building worth seeing. Close to Vesd 
there is a monument to the memory of the 
Prussian officers shot here hi 1809, by the Frendi. 
To the left, fadng Wesel, is Fort Bliicher. At 
Vesel, also, Bi^hi wrote his history of England. 
Fassine Orsoy to the left, we see on the right, 

Bhitbort (Hack's Inn; the coal depdt, situated 
it the mouth of the Buhr, where it discharges 
itsdffaito theBhhie. Nearly 8,000,000 tons of 
coal, the produce of the Adds on the banks of the 
Ruhr, are deposited here annually. 

Dctsbubq (Inns: Post; Bbdnisdier Hof) is 
dtuated on the Lys, and is a town of considerable 
manuikotoring importance, with a population of 
7,800. Duiiburg is connected with Cologne by 
the Winden and Cologne railway, and persons 
wisUng to go on to Cologne or Baden will do 
wen to leave the steamer bere^ if tb^ wish to 
fito time, wd take the train. 



The VaUey of the i2uAr deserves to be exploeed 
if time permit. The following will be found 
its most interesting spots: Hohen, bdgbarg, 
Blankenstein, Werden. Kettlng, and Mulheim. . 
UNnaaoKif— Is on the left bank, seated in a 
fertile plain, and endrdcd by poplar-treos. It 
has about 2,000 inhabitants, whosi obiof means 
of subsistence arise firom navigation, pasturage, 
and trade. Not fsr from this place is Eichds- 
kamp, whore the French in 1796, first crossed 
the Bhine, with 26,000 men under the command 
of Lefebre. On the right we see Caloum, » 
ndlway station, about 1^ mQes from yrbkL is 
Kaiserworth, for a long period the residence of 
tne German emperors. It was formerly an 
island, and still contafais the ruins of a castle, 
built by Pepin d'Heristal, from which the Ardi* 
bishop of Cologne, Hanno, carried olT the em- 
peror Henry II., when only a child of two yearsb 
firom his mother. Its dinrdi is a remarhabla 
building of the 13th century, and contains the 
■brine of St. Subert, an English monk, who 
preadied here hi the 8th centuryr In this place 
also, there is a charitable histitution, founded by 
Flddner. a protestant dergyman. 
Dusseldorf,— Hote]s> 
Brddenbaoher Hof; or Hotel Disdi. First rate, 
and highly recommended, most central y 
and conveniently situated in the town. 
Hotd de TEurope, near the Ballway Statioot 
Post Offlcoi and Landhig-plaoe of the Bhine 
Steainers, an exoeUcnt house, and high^ 
recommended. Landlwd, Mr. QostzMi.*^, 
Hotd Prince of Prussia, wo can strongly reoom-, 
mend this as bdng very oomfortaUs^ the 
landhuiy Is very attentive. 
Dussddorf is one of the prettiest and neatsft 
towns on the Bhine, containhig 86^000 faihal^ 
tants. It is seated on the right baiik of the 
Bhine, and is capital of the duohy or Berg. It 
was once a fortified town, but its fortiflcationaa 
since the peace ot LuneviUe, have disappeared, 
and their place is occupied by gardens and 
agreeable walks. Its ottfects of attraetion ar« 
few, indeed it may be said that the School ^ 
Painting is the only one ; it occupies the palace 
erected by the doctor John wnUain, whose 
statue of bronse is seen in the market-ptaea. 
The entire building was destroyed by the Frenoh 
fas im, save one wing^bwt tfc* Tfistei. 



scv— — 



9i 



SCHOOL or PAOITDrG— H<»naRCiqt— TH« BHIHC (c). 



fBovM^l 



of ^etorMw«r«r«moTttdtoBIiiniobinl805; the i phOoioplMr JMobi, end tht Mmt of Go«I1m^ 
pretoit ocdleetion Is much inferior. Team and ~ 

the two Leonora*, by Carl Sohn, ere brillUnt 
executions of modem date. 

There is also an interesting ooUeotlon of draw- 
tngs by the old masters, amounting to 14.250 
q^ecfanens, among which are many by Raphael, 
M. Angelo, Titian, and other celebrities. There 
are also copies of 300 water-colour drawings 
from the works of the different Italian schools, 
from the 4th century. They are executions by 
Rambout. The public library is immediately 
below this gallery. 

Tdc Dusseldotf School of PaktHng, founded 
in 1828, by Comeliut, has an exhibition each 
summer of the paintings by water-colour arti«ts. 
It opens in July, and continues open until Sept. 

Mr. Sohu'te's Gallery of Modem Paintingis 
at 481, Rue de L'AUSe, is always worthy a Tisit. 
from its being constantly renewed by the new 
pictures which are exhibited there as they are 
finished. 

The Hoffhirtshe or diurch of St. Andrew, has 
some good paintings by Ihuseldorf artisti of the 
exisUng school. The church of St. Lambert, 



In which there are several interesting monu- 
ments; the Jesuist diurch, contidning a painting i able for its Ctothic chapel, and 
by Deger, representing the virgin as she stands I <tf Count Fiirstenberg. 



WIeland, Stolherg, and other literwyoeleinrisias, 
HnuMBT— Twelve mUes from IXsneldiirf 
near Oaknun Station, on the line to BaMNny, 
will repay a visit. Here is the house of Count 
Spec, which contains some excellent freacoea.. 

DusaxLTBAi— Three miles fr<Hn Dnssekke^ is 
abo worth a visit. It is an aqrlum for rteirtitum 
children, 140 of which reoeive an oseftai njn^ 
tion, and are taught trades. 

Railways— Dusselderf to Cologiie, tiaM one 
hour; to Elberfldd, Minden, Hanover, Madge- 
burg, and BerUn in 9 hours. 

The steamer occupies be t wee n Dusseldorf and 
Cologne^ 5 hours in ascending, and 2| hoars in 
descending. 

Leavuig Dusseldorf we see <»i our lef^ the 
steeple of Neuss, where Drusus, it is bdteved, 
threw a bridge over the Rhine. 

Beniuth Stax. — From here we see » hand- 
some chateau, built by the electors of OevMb 
and occupied by Murat, when Grand Duke. 

Passing Zons, with its numerous towers, we 
cross the Gouppe and arrive at 

MuLHBHf, on our right, a fine and inrosperons 
town. Not far removed, is Stammheim, ; 

the 



on clouds, holding the saviour, are the (miy other 
objects of public Interest. 

The Hofgarteny one of the most beautifiil 
gardens in Germany, will repay a visit, it is lined 
with sweet walks, and commands a good view of 
the Rhine. 

Dusseldorf is the seat of the provincial parlia- 
ment of the Rhenish provinces, and is th« 
reddence of Prince Frederick of Prussia. Its 
situation on the Rhine contributes altogether to 
its prosperous and thriving condition. It is the 
emporium of the merchandise sent from the 
duchy of Berg, and of the iron ware from Soh- 
lingen, as well as of the cloths and cottons of 
Elberfleld. Of the three qiuurters into which it 
Is divided, Karlstadt and Neustadt are the best 
and cleanest, contrasting deeply with the close 
filthy streets of Alstadt. 

English Church Service at the German pro- 
Cestant temple. Berg Strasse, at 11} a.m. and 3} 
p.m. on Sundays. 

FiutRKLwoRT, attaated on the east of the town, 
if remarkBblB aa belttg the reddence of the \ totYie'wsiX«i?a«^«)Tk»v "eoc^shAdUke an 



EOXTTB 21. 

THB RHIItE (c) 

Cologne to Coblenz. 

The Rhine, over the entire aspect and charaete 
of which the Supreme Architect seems to have 
shed brilliant streaks of glorious scenery and pic- 
turesque grandeur, is no less remarkable for the 
combination of natural loveliness that diarae- 
terises its scenery, than for the historical tradi- 
tions interwoven with every phase of its history, 
representing Roman conquests and defisats* 
feudal events AiH of chivalry and daring; and 
the wars and negotiations of modem days. Its 
iMtnks possess an interest, not only as having 
reposing beside them the bones and ashes of 
emperors who wore the imperial purple, and 
swayed the mighty sceptre within ite territorial 
boundaries, but as having standing on their bor- 
ders two of the noblest gothio monuments of tibte 
middle ages, wliilst every variety of nqgifd 
rock, and forests thick in stately eleganee and 
qrlvan grandeur ; plains rich in f ruitftil ' 



^Route 21] 



SHIHB (c)— SAnS ON THE BHIMB. 



tgrrie among: lofty erags, and uoii gently slopinpi 
ir« scattered along Ua liinlta aa so many triumphs 
itvB by industrial energy amid this rugged for- 
fress of nature. This river is regarded by erery 
German with a Idnd of reverence and affectionate 
interest, their poetry calling it **King EMne,'* 
Castles having a thousand legends connected 
idtii the traditional reminiscences of their history 
are met iviUi aa we are borne along its course. 

"Andthare tliij itand at itMida » loflj mind. 
Worn* bat uiatoopiiig to the baaer cxowd, 
AH ttnantl— nre to tha eraansriiig wind. 
Or holding dark oommunioa with tha crowd— 
Then waa a day whan thar were yoonc and pcond. 
Bannera on hi^ and battlaa paaaad baknr. 
Bat thajr who finishi ara in a hkodjr ihrond. 
And thoaa which wavad ara ahredlaaa dnat are now. 
And tha Maakhattlemanta ahaU bavr no ftotore Uow.*' 

Byr^O. 

Populous cities, flourisliing towns and villages, 
beautiful roads and healthy mineral springs are 
not wanting to add more attraction and beauty to 
tlut river whose waters offer choice flsh, as the 
vineyards on its banks offer the choicest wine ; " a 
river which," according to Dr. I eiber, " in its 
course of nine hundred miles, affords six hundred 
and thirty miles of uninterrupted navigation from 
Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitanta of 
its banks to exchange the ridi and various pro- 
ducts of its shores for the choice articles indi- 
genous to other lands; whose cities, illustrious 
for commerce, for the encouragement of science, 
and works of strength, furniih protection to 
Germany, and are also famous as the seats of 
Soman colonies and of ecdedastical councils; 
and are anodated nitii many of the most im- 
portant events recorded in the history of man- 
Und." 

The source of the Bhine^ which, in its course 
to ttie ocean of nearly four hundred leagues, is 
swelled by more than twelve thousand brooks and 
streamlets^ issues in the centre of the A^ on the 
frontiers of Italy. Three brooks, uniting at the 
village of Bheinan, in the Qrlssons, form this 
stream. The Fore Rhine issues on the eastern 
declivity of Mount St. Oothard, where fi^m the 
lake Toma, which te ei«dosed 1^ a wall of roda 
of nine thousand feet this rivulet breaks forth, 
and, being increased by the waiters of some other 
teookSk near the vQIage of IMsseutis^ johis the 
Middle BUne^ another rivulet, issuing from a 
talk* near Mount Lnkiniiiy, FiftMiii 



leagues lower down, swelled by near rizty otfiar 
brooks, both rivulets unite with the Hind BldiM^ 
and thua united, form the river BUne. Tlit 
Hind Hhine, the most condderable of these 
three brooks, issues likewise in a ravine, wfaloh Is 
some miles long, from among masses of rooks 
rising to the height of nine thousand feet out of 
an ice mountain, 6.6 thousand feet above tiw 
levd of the sea. 

Rc^ en the JRAIm.— Every traveller on tfia 
Bhine is sure to meet frst floating islands of 
timbor going down the stream. It will doubttass 
be to him an olject of interest to learn it hat this 
novel spectacle means, its composition, otjeet, 
and destination. They are called rqfts, and «• 
the produce of the forests covering the hlDs and 
mountains watered by the Bhine and ita tri 
butaries,— the Necker, the Murg, fifain, and 
Moselle. After being thrown down fitnn their 
lofty heights, they are felled, and cast into some 
stream suflSdoit to float them. Thus is tree 
after tree bound together, and conveyed from 
stream to stream, until floating islands arefnrmed 
which are bound into one great fisbrio and na- 
vigated to Dortrecht, where it is sold'at Neon- 
dorf. As the mass floata along, it presents the 
appearance of a floating village, composed ci 
dght or ten wooden houses on a large timber 
platform. Four or five hundred rowers and as- 
sistants are required to navigate the raft. These 
are directed by pilota and the proprietor, who 
lives on board the raft, in a house built evprwsty 
for him, superior in sise, &c., to the others. 
The captain occupies an elevated position, wUA 
enables him to see and order all the steering^ 
and movements. The mass or structure is 
directed by meana of anchors and the immenst 
oars placed fore and aft. The workpeople ars 
accompanied by thdr wives and children, and 
knitting, sewing, &c., is carried on during ths 
day. A very large quantity of provisions is oon* 
sumed during the voyage ; so mud& as 46,000 lbs. 
of bread, 81,000 lbs. of meat, 600 tuns of beer, eight 
or ten butts of wine, 1 ,600 lbs. (Abutter, 10,000 lbs. 
of cheese, being the average quantity. The timber 
is sold at the end of the voyage, and often prodnoee 
aa much aa £26,000, and oftentimes £30,000. The 
durati<m of the voyage is generally fSrom elghl 
days to six weeks. 

SUemen o» tka BWBWt--2Ti«t% ^^.x-st^w* 



(c 



M 



vis. tlie DMMldor^ wUeh maj b« dirtiiigahhad 
bgr hftrfaig the ftmndt of thtir tiwoIb nuriksd 
with blade and white atrlpei; the Cologna^ dia- 
tingnlahed by their bhusk ftmnda; the Nether- 
landa, bj having the fimnda painted half black 
luad half white; the Cologne Conqtapj'a 
boat! do not go lower down the stream than 
Amheim, pawengers proceeding farther are 
taken by the Netherland Company's boats. 
The Steamers are divided into three cabins 
—the Pavilion, the Chief Cabin, and the 
Fore CaUn. Reflreshments are provided en 
boerd at a moderate rate, fixed by a printed 
tariff. In going np or down the Bhine, in the 
river boats, if a person wishes, or has necessity, 
to travel with economy, he may take a second 
class ticket, and dine at the table d'hdte in the 
main cabin by paying the difference of fare be- 
tween the two places for such time as he is at 
dinner ; or, in other words, he win pay 3s. histead 
of 2s. for his dinner; they permit this when not ' 
too crowded. The quickest boats go in one day 
down the Rliine, firom Mannheim to Cologne and 
Dniweldorf ; Mayence to Dusseldorf ; Dusseldorf 
to Rotterdam. Up the stream in one day from 
Cologne to Mannheim, in summer, and to Co- 
bleiuE in winter; Coblenx to Mannheim. The 
following will be found the average time occupied 
on the voyage between 

MILKS. DOWir. UP. 

Rotterdam and Emmerich ...111 ...8 brs...l2 hrs. 
Emmerich and Dusseldorf... 73^...8 „ ...10 „ 

Dusseldorf and Cologne. S1^...8 „ ... 5 „ 

Cologne and Mayence 127 ...9 „ ...13^» 

Bfayence and Mannheim 46^...3^„ ... 6^„ 

In addition to the above stations, there are 38 
small towns and 21 landhig -places at which the 
steamers touch, some of them being the most 
picturesque points of the Rhine. At any of them, 
without exception, the tourist may land, and con- | 
tinue his Journey when he pleases, up or down 
the river, by any of the company's steamers : he ! 
has only to take care to have his ticket marked 
ky the conductor of the boat before leavhig it. ' 
For landing or embarking at any of these points 
the charge is three halflpence. 

Scenery of the Rhine — The picturesque gran- 
deur of the Rhine first shadows forth its beautiful 
brilliancy et the magnificent cluster of mountains 
4mJlfed Siebeageherghei and firom this place, along 
tM0 kmkg of the rivar 9bUx BM Mayeiioe« toenea 



OF IBS wwn nfi 



[^Boote SI 



ooostant^ met witfa. The toorlst hnrrtodly 
passing np and down the river fai a steam-boat 
cannot ei^oy the soeoery of the Bhfai»...|n fkdt 
they have notseen it. A mere trip up or dowa 
the RUne, as English travellers generally taks^ 
can give no idea of the beauties of the river and 
its banks. If the tourist wishes to explore and ap- 
preciate the Rhine, he must not hurry bat hall 
at the following places, wliich perlu^ia are ttw 
most an>ropriate ones tiiat can be p<riBted 
out : Bowi, CoNenz, 8t. Ooar, and Binffen, or 
JRudethekn. Below Bonn, hi the dfareetlon of 
Cologne, or above BCayenoe, there la scarcely any 
object strildng enough to merit adndratloo. We 
trace in the Novated Alpa^ in Switserland, and 
near Mount St. Oothard, the soorcea <^ the 
Rhdne, the Tessfai, and the Rhine, or the Mny 
of the German— nay, of the West Europeaa 
riyen. The visitor, on ascending the RUne^ or 
on his arrival at Strasbourg, calls to his reo(rileo- 
tion how this stream has hastened his oonrse 
through the lakes of Constance and ZeUem ; how 
it precipitated itself over the rocky ramparCi 
at Schaffhausen; then, strengthened by the eoU 
lected waters ot Switzerland—the influx of 879 
glaciers and upwards of 2,700 rivers of varkmi 
sizes — ^it commences its mijestic course near 
the ancient Roman city of Balse ; how it expvaiM 
between the upper Black Forest, amidst ranges 
of mountains encircling a valley of nearly thir^ 
miles in breadth, through wbich it playftdly 
winds, and receiving, besides other streams, the 
important Neckar and Maine, until a rocky gate 
at Bingen seems to arrest its further career, but 
which it powerfully bursts, and strengthened by 
the Nahe and Moselle, overcomes a similar ob- 
stacle at Andemach, when it continues Its vle- 
torious course towards the sea. 

RaUA'oad. — CoLoams to Boinr, 18 EngUrii 
miles. Cologne terminus close to the St. Fan- 
taleon's Gate. Distance by water, 22 EngOsh 
miles. Steamers occupy 3 hours up, and 1} down. 

CoLOGNB.— (See Route 18 page. 7G.) — The 
railway, quitting Cologne, passes, at a snort dis- 
tance firom the Rhine, through a flat ooontiya 
rich in com fields, and in proximity to the diain 
of the Vorgebrige chain of hills^ &c. The firat 
station met with ia 

Kalsohkitbkr, a place of no Importaaca^ ta 
tYie left. Leavfaig here we are qidcMj boHM en 



Boiite2Il 



fpBruh], anoMU town, omiUining » popolAtion 
«f 8,000 Boulf. 

Bbukl is remarkable at being the reftige of 
the Archbishop Engelbert, of Falkenberg, ex- 
pelled Crom Cologne in 1284, and of the Car- 
dinal Mn"^*^"! when expelled flrom France. 
The elector, Clement Augustus, laid in 1725 the 
foundation stone of the magnificent castle of 
Angustenberg, finished by MaximiHan Frederick, 
•ad now the proper^ of the Prussian govem- 
ment. Tlils castle lies on a beaatilul promon- 
tory, which, near Bonn, recedes fhmi the Rhine, 
and ranges along in a picturesque manner two 
miles firom It. The King of Prussia, in 1846, 
reeeiTed Queen Victoria in this castle during the 
Beethorian festlTaL The site is excellent, and 
the country around very picturesque and grand; 
oyer the stairs are beantiftil platforms painted 
by Andned and Camioli. In the interior a 
noble taste goes hand in hand with domestic 
oomfort. Large fish ponds, shady grores, and a 
park whidi was formerly stocked with game en- 
circle the castle; a linden walk takes us into a 
ioull wood to the beautiful hunting seat of Fal- 
kenlust. Leaving the last station we pass 8ech- 
tmn and Waldorf; where are the remains of a 
Boman aqueduct, we arriTO at Roi»dorf station; 
here there Is an excellent mineral spring, whose 
water is preferable to that of Oodesberg, becauss 
to keeps its carbonic add more flrm!y bound, and 
therefore may be sent to a greater distance. A 
brilliant view of the seven moimtains beyond the 
Bhine may be bad here. Before reaching Bonn 
we see the Kreusberg (cross monntain), to which 
a fine avenue of fir-trees leads. The village of 
Poppdsdorf rises behind it. The cloister of 
gervites has been puUed down, but the beantiftil 
•hurch with its marble stsirs and fine platform 
is still standing. The church contains some fine 
paintings, and in the orypt are mummies of the 
monks to be seen. 

The Bonn terminus is dose to the chesnut 
aivenne leading to Poppelsdorf. Omnibuses ply 
between the station and steamers. 



Staamen leave Cologne for CoUens ever; 

iBoming, performing the voyage upwards in 

eight hours, and downwards in five. Mayenoe to 

OologiM^ tan hours; Mayenoe to Frankfort 

I hour and a qoarter. 

Tht Baynthurm. aaoUandvenenble 



of the 14th omtory, risee at the margbi of tiM 
river at the upper end of Cologne. In winter tt 
serves to stave off the ice shocks firom the oilgr 

The water Journey from Cologne to Boon |i 
very iminteresting, the banks along being qoitt 
flat, and the villages lying on them nnintertitlag. 

As we near Bonn, to the right, the ootUna eff 
the Siebengeberghe, or Seven Mountains^ isMflft 
to reflect itself in prismatic qplendonr, i^Stteriiiff 
and qparkling like the walls of some orysHt 
palace. The Sleg discharges itself Into the BUM 
on the right bank. This river is fiumoaa for 
salmon fishing. It abounds in this flib, fOBt 
of which weigh from 30 to fiO pounds. 

To the right the castle of Siegeberg riset on 
an embience above the Sieg, three milea east Of 
the Rhine. It is now a Itmatic aqrltun. 

To the right, also, is Bchwas-Bhelndorf. 
There was formerly an establishment for nobla 
ladies here in this place, known as the Bene- 
dictine Abbey. It contains to-day a curioas 
architectural monument called the Steft Kirofae^ 
a chiu*ch of two stories high. Interesting to none 
save antiquarians. 

Bonii«->HoteIs : 

Hotel Golden Star, deddedly 9M of tlie be* oa 
the Continent In every respect, and worthy 
oar strongest recommendation. 

The Grand Hotel Royal, overlooking the BMnt 
andfkdng the Park, Is a good house, eon- 
mandfaig a deUgfatftd view of the Sctn 
Mountains. 

EoUl de Treves, a dean and oomfortahl* 
moderate house. 

Hotd EUjt very good, comfortable^ and 



i 



Population 30,600, including the students and 
garrison. A imiversity town in Rhenish-Prassla 
of Roman origin, and formerly the residenee of 
the Electors of Cologne. Its best edifloes are thi* 
university, where Prince Albert was a stodMit 
formerly the electoral palace, in whidi, besldse 
lecture rooms, are a library of 150,000 vdumei; 
the academical and Rhenish museums; a flaa 
collection of Roman antiquities, indoding an altar 
to viot<»y ; and the aula, or aoademlcal haO, de- 
corated with Creeco paintings by the pupil% and 
ander the direction of Comellua. TVa 



96 



imreTBB— XUaBUM— OODBSBEBCk 



[Route 2L 



TJieology, in the thrat fiamier of wliich Lfai. 
luens and Curier are prominenti and Wickliffe, 
Lather, Calvin, St. Jerome, Ignatius Loyola, and 
other fathers, both Protestant and Catholic. 

The Minsier presents a very fine extemd ap- 
pearance, and was founded bj the Empress 
Helena, mother of Constantino the Great in 320. 
It is bunt in the Bytantine style und is sur. 
mounted by five towers. It contains a brot.ze 
statue of the Empress. The tower and window > 
of the nave form its most rem trkable parts. 

The house of BeethoTen *b pointed 6ut in the 
Sheingrasse. A bronse statue of him, erected 
in 1845, stands Ui the Miini>ter Plats. NIebubr, 
the historian, is buried in the church yard here, 
outside the town. English Church Service, on 
Sundays, fan the Electoral Church. 

The Museum of iVottirat FhSLowphy occupies 
the ch&tean of Popp1esdorf,approacbed by a beau- 
tiful walk, lined with a double aTcnue of chescut 
trees. The collection ii extenslTC and interest- 
ing; the irarious fossi's, minerals, &c., illustrating 
the geology of the Rhine, Siebengeberghe, and 
Epel. A set of fossil frogs in it deserves notice. 
The BoUmxc Churden is adjoining the chateau, 
and is rich, spftdous, and beauttftilly located. 

Dr. Parow's Institution of Orthopady and 
Medical Gymnastics, for the cure of spinal cunra- 
ture and deformities of the chest and limbs, &c., 
offers to young ladies board and lodging in the 
establishment itself, where, in addition to suitable 
treatment, every arrangement is nmade for giving 
them a finished and accomplished education, 
especially in modem Unsuages. 
The beauties of the Rhine begin to unfold them- 
selves at Bonn. From the opposite side of the 
river the view of the Seven Mountains is magni- 
ficently grand, wbiutthey can also be seen with 
much advantage flrum the Alte Zoll tf^rrace, out- 
aide the Coblenc gate. The view obtained from 
the church on the top of Kreuzberg, l^iuilesfrom 
Bonn, is beautiful In the extreme. The church 
was built in 1627, and is said to contain the stairs 
which led up to Pilate's Judgment Hall. They 
are in a cbapel behind the high a<tar, and still 
bear, it isasserted,the stahM of the drops of Uood 
whidi fell from the Saviour's brow when lacerated 
by the crown of tboms ! They a^e modelled from 
tbe Sc»U Santa ataircaae at Rome, and were built 
of Italian marhU in 1726. Persons anxious to 
maaead them ntuat do ao on their Kneea. In a 
't underneath the church are mummlek 



sind cassocks on. They have been botled gt va- 
rioua times, from 1400 to 1713, and pi rceci v e the 
H>pearance of saved fish. Very many other 
pleasant excnrdons can be made firom Bom. 

Bonn to Coblens.— Leaving Bonn we aee 
on the roal side, three miles distant, the Hoch 
Kreuc {hU h cross) aa it is called, a gothic mono. 
merit, built by Walfram of JuUus, Ardibiahop 
of Co ogne. In 1331 1349. About one mile dis- 
taiit from this to the right of the road, and 
opposite the Hoch Kreux lies Friesdor^ aitna- 
t«d at the foot of a pleaaant chain of hills which 
stretches from Godesberit til they are lost deep 
in the Roer department. This place is worth 
notice, on the great mines opened in its vicfadly 
opposite the Putsburg, as it is called, where the 
steamer stops for passengers to or from 

GoDB8BKBo:-Inns:Bllnxier^s Hotel. De B^U-vne. 
Is a small village near the Rhine, coniainhag 
about 1,00G inhabitants. TheDraltscherBnmnsB 
mineral qpring and the baths are c ose by it, and 
are charged lO^.each Thecastiekeep,onthetDp 
ofthehill,isan interesting object; it is approached 
by a serpentine path, and is a building of the 13ih 
century, erected by tbe Archbishops of Cfrfogne^ 
on the site of a Roman fort. It was taken and 
blown up by the Bavarians ht 1583. A magnifi- 
cent view of the Rhine can be enjoyed from tbe 
Donjon keep, which is 100 feet high. From 
Godesberg excursions can bemade to the roloanic 
hil of Rodesberg, the Seven Mountains. The 
shortest way to re<iCh them is by crosdng to 
Konigswinter over the Rhine by ferry-boat. A 
very interesting and delightful excursion, of 
about one day's length may be made from the 
foot of the Drachenfels, by ascending the left 
bank of the Rbine to Rolandsbeck and a^ain 
going down the river to Konigswinto*. A tovnr 
up the Ahr valley can also be profitably made 
and with the excursion to the Seven Mountains, 
a visit can be made to the celebrated Cistereian 
Abbey of HeUlerbach. A fragment of the choir 
now only remains, a solitary monimient of iti 
ancient magnificence. The building was com* 
menced in 1212, and waa finished in 1233, bdnf 
a beautiful specimen of the transition s^le from 
the round to the pointed system of architeetara. 
In 1%^^> I3ci« ^st^a^jet \aaEX. «1 N2ba \NS^<&iG^ -^nft 
puWed down, «sA \s«ft^ ■'a^V Vti Xfea «t«K$<^»^ tA ^te» 
fortiAcBto.oviaol^«»V \.w\a% ^^i«tote«i,^ 



"'-vintwem^.are comoB, and have cowU\ •ee.*at\xoTt^^W^«^^B»»«=^^^^•^^^^*^ 



Bottte 81] 



KOKIGSWIKTER^TRB 8ETEH MOVHTAINB. 



87 



4w!f; whilst a litflaftvtlier to the right Mehlom 
appMn, having in its vicinity Roderberg, one of 
the most interesting extinct volcanoes of the 
lower Rhine. The Abbey of Siegberg is next 
seen rising into view, on the top of a hUl. On 
the right are the villages of Dolleadorf and Ober- 
kassel. The mountains now receding on both 
bankS) the stream narrows, and we arrive at — 
KoMitiswuiTKa.—- Inn : 

Hotel de Berlin, tlie best. 

Where the valley of the Rhine, proporly so 
eaUed, which begins at Bingen, terminates. It is 
a small village of abont ^teen hundred inhabi- 



taken the stone need in llie ereotion of the Co» 
logne Cathedral. Cflbsetothetopisavesygiiad 
inns where the travellerwill find oomfortaUeae- 
commodation, and enjoy a magnlfloent view of th« 
sun-rise, should he stop over nighc and sleiqp 
there. From here the view extends down the 
river for about twenty miles, closed in by Ugh 
and picturesque rodcs, which impart a wild aspect 
to the scene, greatly relieved however by the 
villages and fSurm-houses filling up the fore- 
ground. The chief ot^Jecti of attraction are th« 
summits of the Seven Mountains, the Dungson 
of Oodesberg, the Volcanic Chain of the Elfel, 
and the Island of Nonenworth. On the summit 
tants, situated at the foot of theDrachenfels, the I of the Lowenbnrg are the ruins of the castle in 
ascent of which firom here can be made in about \ whidh Melanofhon and Bueer dwelt for a short 
half an hour. Donkeys to ascend the mountain, I P^'io^ ^^ the Archbishop Herman Von Weid* 
cost lOg.; to Hiesterbach, 20s.gr. Boats to j ^^ose to Hehlem we find an extinct volcano, one 
Monenworlh and back. :Ms4(r.i to Bonn 16e.gr. • ^ ^® ^"^ interesting on the Rhine, called ttio 



Rodesberg. Its crater is a quarter of a mile 
round, and one hundred feet deep. A good 
prospect of the Rhine may be had from the arch 
and turrets of the Castle of Rolandseck, ap» 
proached through the EUasschluct Gorge. 

The view firom Rolandse<dc is uncommonly 
beautiftiL If youwiahtocometotheruina^yova 
first strike into the horse-roid, which serpentinee 
across the hiU in a west«m direction. Thanyoa 
oome on the left to a footpath that takee you 
through an overgrown ravine to the summit. At 
the foot of the hill lies a hamlet with three lmn« 
dred and fifty inhabitants. On the plsaaint 
island of Nonenwortti, there is a nunnery, bnllt 
in 1673. It is embowered in trees and deUgfat* 
ftdly situated. It was taken under the proteotloQ 
of the Empress JosepUne, who induced N^oleon 
I to spare it, when the other rdigious hodses eo 
the Rhine were confiscated by the Frendi. On 
the height of Honnet, there are some lead uod 
copper mines, and a little flurtiier down is Bmi« 
nesdorf ; in the shade of the Seven mis— tiia 
mi^estic Siebengeberghe. With these massw fw« 
minates the dhain of mountains that sti e t e b st 
through Thuringia, FuMa, and Wettemvia «p 
to the Rhine. 
The road firom Rolandse<de to RenMgea, ii 



The Seven Jlbufitelns inthe Siebengeberghe are 
seen on the right, and are a beautiftil opoiing to 
the magnificent scenery of the Rliine. They 
rise in towering majesty above its banks, and are 
seven in number, as follows : — Stromberg, 1,053 
feet; Nlederstromberg, 1,066 feet; Oelberg, 1,466 
feet; Wolkenberg, 1,057 feet; Drachenfels, 1,051 
fiset; and Lowenberg and Hemmerich On 
the summit are the remains of an antique ofanrdh 
or castle. Drachenfels, or the Dragon Rock, is 
the most reirarkable, and derives double interest 
f. om having been the subject of Byron's muse. 
They rise from the bank of the river like a huge 
wall of rocks, on the south west declivity. In 
the lower half, you perceive the narrow, though 
high opening of a cave, in which tradition re- 
oordr, dwelt the dragon whom the homed fiieg- 
fried slew. 

*' Hm OMtled eraff of Draehenftls 
Vrowns o^er the wida and winding Shin*. 
WhoM breast ot watan broadlj avella 
Batwaan tha banks whkh baar tha Tina; 
And bills all rlcb with blosMun'd trees. 
And tMd» which promise com and wine ; 
And seatter'd dUes crowning these, 
^Hioee Ikr white walls aloDg them shine, 
Harastraw'd a scene, which I shooldsea 
With doubla Joy, war't thou with me." 

The summit of this mountain can be arrived carried through a rock. It was becniL ^ 
at in Uttle leis time than an hour flrom Konigs. ( BMisNaxA, ockXf^ls»»^ \si ^Oaaa '^twa^ti^ ^ ^ "T TiNii 
winter. From its tcp a magnifloent view jnay be \ t«ete^\si ^ab»'«TtMAai>a,'«vsai'te»'»"8Q(«!*a^^ 
0R^j9d of the oauDtrjMDd ottfeoti aU round. In i to TXtAwA»^flaft'BMaMal«n^^^^^ 
Mr «i0m^ qp w«j«if tiMqaanj froBiirtiii^ iTM ^ (A W^^iii^'^ 



IBoute 21 



ber cT fflli«M Ito la «• vliii^ nd <m flM dap« 
«r flM vliMfallto HiMler BohMiam nd Btatlii. 
bnllbadilto on tlM right, and Obflrwintv, wttli 
WfOT lumdrvd InhaMtaata, on tha lift. Bliain- 
bNttbaeh eontaina tirctra taimdrad InhaMtaiiti^ 
and liaa two w y pafworki, ona of which, St. 
John'a, la tha oldest on tha Bhfaia. 

ORKSL.— A imaU town with 600 or 700 faduu 
iKtaati, IfiituatadinaTerypietaresqaaooimtrj, 
tothelaft. Opposite tha town, on tha loft bank, 
there arises a mountain tliat contains an Inez* 
hanstibte store of large ccrtmnns of basalt, under 
a layer of 80 or 40 foet of sandy mailgronnd. 
They stand and lie in tlia qnarry in different 
direotlona, resemblfaig those of the OiaatTs 
Oanseway in Irehmd; their sides dosing and 
spreading under ground as fhr as the middle of 
tha Rhine, though some lie so deep that one 
ean see many of their their horlxontal sections 
at low water, and others again generally appear 
above it. The most remarkable of these Is the 
Unkelstein, a group that Is eridently oonneeted 
with tha other columns stretching along the 
shore. There are dreadftal traditions of the 
Unkelstein, similar to those of Bcjlla and 
Charybdis, current among the people, eape- 
tiaXtj the shippers. The basslt forms a llrst-rate 
material for roads, and as such Is largely quarried. 
A landslip in it in 1846 raised the road forty feet 
abore its former leveL We next see, to the left^ 
the woody heights of 

ArPOLLurABisBBBO, a cheerftil mount, with 
Its former proroet's mansion, which belonged 
to the abbey of Siegburg. From its height, 
which l« uncommonly Interesting, a delight- 
Ail view of the Rhine may be enjoyed. It 
la aaUad after 8t. ApoUlnsrius, whose head is 
preserred In the ancient Gothic church, built 
from the designs of Zwimer, the restorer of the 
dmne of Cologne. Frescoes decorate it Inter- 
nally, and circular windows, except in the choir, 
light It up. It contains some of the best works 
of tha Oerman school of firesca painting, by 
Degw, A. Miiller, and Ittenbaoh. From the 
Apollinarisberg a sptondid view of the seven 
niovntains can be «iJoy*d. At tha bottom of 
tbehlUwesaa 

RaMAAM.— Inna t 
Konig Ton PrausMO. 
ft i us sesebeg Hof. 
A musU iown, tb« AI|giMii^iiin of th« 



with a popiilailoii of 1367 inhaU. 

It Bea oppostta the Ugh road frovn Bonn 

to Coblans. When, fai 1768, the beantifad nMd 

between tha two latter mentioned places was 

being madei, a great number of atttl<iao monn- 

ments were found here and about. TheydUel|j 

consisted of Roman mlkstonei^ coins, oofannw 

with Inscriptions, sarcophagi, denoting preCliir 

clearly that the Emperor Marcus Aurellna and 

Luehis had already founded a road here. The 

chief olilect of hiterest to the traveler la tiia 

romonesgue gaUway. It is dose to tha dnirdi, 

and has scn^itnred on it the signs of tha sodfaa 

To the right, a little b^ond Remagen, era aasn 

the basaltic predpioes csUed the Erpder Ld, 

wUdi, are 700 feet high, and almost bisrrnsil 

bla, andhaveyet,by the energy and ddll of honiMi 

industry been converted into ridi vineyards. The 

vines are herei, as in other similar steep vtaugrafdib 

(where one would almost siqipose the wwantyn 

goat andher Uds could alone be the vinedresam^) 

planted in badcets filled with mould and Inserted 

In the crevices of the rock. The costly ley whw^ 

the princ^pd white wine of these parts^ growf 

on the southern or eastern dedivity of Ihb 

steep. Proceeding psst Ockenfels on the righ^ 

the first turn of the river brings us in sight of 

Lins, on the opposite shore. 

Lnrz.— Imw : 
Nassaudiofc 
RhdnlBcher Hof; 

A smaU industrious town, with a population of 
2250. It is partly fortified and belonged former^ 
to the Electorate of Cologne. In 136S^ tfie 
castle near the Rhine-gate was built by Arch- 
bishop Engelbert III., in order to seenra tfie 
Rhine toll and protect the town against the ifti 
vasions of thj9 dtizens of Andemaoh. Tha 
castle, as well as the town-walls, are built of 
basdt, and the streets are paved with the same 
materid. Not far flrom Linz is LevibBdotf, with 
its white steeple peeping forth flrom the right of 
the rode opposite the Aar, which issues into tha 
Rliine, oppodte Line, immediately bdow Sinsifr« 
Passing its mouth, we see up the Aar valley, 
the conicd top of tha Landskrone. This littla 
mountain stream flows through a narrow, deei^ 
and crooked valley 12 leagues long, fwoducfatg an 
excdlent red wine called Aarbludiart. M 
stream Is very rspid and sometiraeB ovotflami 
ita hanki spreadfaig dasolaHon around. 



Boute21«1 

Si9B«.— (Imi : Stan Krone.) A mall town, 1| 
mOct from the Bldne, by whose waters its walls 
night have been formerly washed. Its population 
is sixteen hundred. It k tlie ancient sentricum, a 
Boman castle, probaUy founded by one of Angus- 
tn^ generals, called Sentis. According to tradition, | 
the memorable battte between Constantino and 
Mazentius, which dedded the victory of Chris- 
tianity over pag««**t« was fought here. Its 
parish church is an otject of interest. The 
altar-piece in it represents Constantine beholding 
the cross in the sky. It is a beautiful gothic 
edifice^ built in the form of a cross. AweUinre- 
senred painting over the side door on the right 
desenresnotice. There are a few German pahit- 
ings on the side of tlie high altar scarcely deserv- 
ing notice. To the right we see the castle of 
Argenf els. A short distance beyond the village of 
Honningen we see on the left, the village of 
Niederbreisig, a pretty pUu», with about 1,220 
pohabitants, and from there^ up from the 
river, is Oberttreisig, where our notice is 
daimed by an ancient church and some inscrip. 
tions. In the distant background, contiguous to 
JSifel, we see Olbreuck and the castle of Lands, 
kron on the Aar. Proceeding to Brohl, we see 
on the left, the couOe of Bheieeck, from which the 
prospect is really grand. The ruins are the pro- 
perty of Professor Bethman-Holweg, of Bonn, who 
has restored them to their pristine shape at consi- 
derable and lavish expense. Upwards you behold 
Andemach and Leudesdorf; and oi^EKMite^ bloom- 
ing fields greet your «ye, whilst downwards, 
the stream is rdling its waves in ddightfhl 
eosta^. 

BnoHL.— 0. Hotel Nonns,) is a small village at 
the mouth of the stream and valley of the same 
name. It extends partly at the dedivity of a 
mount, and is mostly hid in different directions 
by two small hois. Upon one of these emi- 
nenees there lies an ancient castle. The 
beautiful view, the abundance of springs, 
the evergreen vegetation, and the natural 
loveliness so interesting to a pliilosoplier, 
presmts one of the most ddightflil atttrae- 
tions on the banks of the Khine. AUaround 
Brohl has the character of volcanic alluvial 
soil, and you ft-equently find in it a mixtun 
of pumice stone, removed ttom its place bj roL" 
oanic eraption. Brohl possesses a peper mill, 
together withseveraloth«rnmii^whMMf«.dElfMi 



n 



by the waters of the stream BroldlMwli, and ant 
employed in grinding tuif-stone into trass or 
cement. It reeemUes Roman cement and the 
puuolona of Naples, and was made use of by liior 
ancients in the building of their oofSns, iHddi 
were called sarcophagi, or flesh consumers^ 
ttom the wonderful property possessed by Ihii 
stone of absorbing the moisture of the dead. 

From here an excursion can be made to the 
lake of Laach. This lake and its environs arv 
extremely remarkable. Its surface is 8,694 feelr 
long, 7,890 feet broad, and 214 feet deep. It ia- 
said to have 3,000 sources. The water is of a* 
blueish colour, is very cold, and of a nauseoot' 
taste, throwing out, when agitated, a sand 
attracted by the magnet. The lake flreeies 
rarely and contains no fish but pike, tendi, and 
perch. The excursion is made by carriage, and 
win occupy a long day. On the opposite shore, on - 
a huge rugged rock, is the ivy clad ruin of ttie- 
castle of Hammerstein, remarkable as being the 
refhge of the Emperor Henry V. when perse- 
cuted by his son. The small old church within 
it is interesting. 

The retrospect from Brohl to Andemadi Is* 
ohaiming in the extreme. Massive rocks, wlUi 
the picturesque ruins of the castle of Hamener- 
stein, woody foregrounds, and flourishing val]qr% 
form some of the most charming landscapes. To 
the left we see 

Nakxdt, situated romantically within ther- 
shades of the forest. Here the Bhine tatnm 
a small hsrixrar where formerly the smaller - 
rafts were united into larger ones. As we pro* 
ceed on from here wesee Breysich and Hasningeii - 
in the foreground of the picture through which ' 
the river pursues its serpentine course. Faadng 
the islet on the right, the proqiect opens between 
two rows of mountains^ and a cheerftd plain 
sinreads itself out on our left, where Lieudesdoif 
is ranged along the river, sheltered by high waflf 
I of rodcs planted with vines. We arrive at 
Ajidkknach^ an andenttown, ftmndad by the 
Bomans, and, in the middle ages, a free dty of the 
empire. Endosed within lof^ old walls, it con- 
trasts strikingly wltii Nenwied, ftnlher on, wlddi 
lies quite open. It was the flrontier fortress of tb* 
Romans, ihe head quarters of a pnefectusmmtam, 
and the last Roman station of tiie army of the Up* 
per Rhine. It contains about 3,000 inhsbttasAi^ 
and if at vreMDifc tHBD»«al<QK \3i<k ' 



105 



nUWXID— PBDTGB'ft Pil*4GB. 



[BDOtftJIt 



•|i|MMr nowliere elte on the RhiiM, or in any 
EnropeMi oountry iniuoh quuttttgr aain Holiand. 
ThflM pirodncts are ftirnished hj thote renuurk- 
■Me qiurriefl of mill itone and traia which the 
geologist will not pass by unnoticed. It is the 
peculiar quality of this volcanic production that it, 
if mlced with a proper quantity of lime, forms a 
mortar that resists water, or rather, is turned by 
it into durable stone. The mill stones of this 
^latw are also a Tolc%nic product, and are spoken 
of as the *' Rhenish mill stones^ by the Roman 
authors. A great many of them have been found 
among the Roman ruins in England. They are 
also eKported to this country, Russia, the East 
and West Indies, and to other countries of 
tbo world. The curiosities of Andemach are, 
the gate towards Coblens, the round watch 
tower, the ancient palace of the Frank kings, 
dose to a round tower, evidently Roman, and an 
interesting specimen of the architecture of the 
middle ages. 

The Church is a fine old struolure of the 
Cariovingian ago, and in the neighbouring 
Kirchberg there are Roman sepulchres. In the 
neighbourhood are reveral rich mineral springs. 
Those of ToenoKtein and Heilbrun, near the lake 
of Laach, about two miles to the right of Ander- 
nach, have considerable reputation. Those of 
lieilbrunen are white, like milk. A short distance 
ft*om here, on the right of the road, on the spot 
where formerly stood the Abbey of St. Thomas, 
burnt by the French in 1794, there is an extensive 
tannery and lunatic asylum, part of the restored 
ruins of the abbey. Beyond Andemtch the 
mountains again approach the river, forming a 
magnificent defile, and having, at the water^s 
edge, on the right, the ruined castle of Friedrich. 
stein, or the Teufelshaus— «. e., the Devil's House, 
80 called by the serfii forced to build it, the 
building of which was begun in the 17th century, 
but never flni^ed. On the same side lies the 
villaflte of Irrlich, connected by an avenue of i 
poplars with the town of Neuweid. It is an in. 
dustrious little place, where the Neid falls into 
the RUne. Opposite to it Ues the mouth of the 
Nette, which in its course of ten leagues, watera 
<n)e of the most fertile vsUeys on the Rhhie. 

NBinvEiD. — Inns : 
Hotel du Rhin. 
Anker. 



CMar*B Hotel. 

An agreeably ranged and dean tofwo^ vikh « 
population of 6,804. It is the capltai of 
the principality of Weid, now Joined to Fnuri% 
and is located in a dutfming plaii^ envinMMf 
as it were by a wreath of emineooea. ft 
was founded not much more tlian a oeatozy baelc 
by Prince Frederick William. It hat broad 
streets, eheerfkd houses, and is a pattern of aelir 
vity and industry. The Count Alezandar isised 
the prosperity of the town by giving porlbsft 
fireedom and toleration in civil and reUgloas 
matters to all who came to settle then^ taj Mr 
sisting them with large sums <xr moneib and 
keeping up a splendid court. lAitharaB% 
Roman CathoUct^ in shorty people of «■ par. 
suasions flocked to this place where tho fueliiiliii 
genius of toleration built herself a teinple^ m\m% 
men, though kneeling at different altan, and 
worshipping by different rites yet r^arded tlM 
book of peace and the legacy of love not m a 
bone of contention, nor Christianity as tlio tonek- 
stone of undiaritableness. 

The Prmodt Palace overlooks the river, fa 
one of its ride buildings is a very importaat i 
lection of Roman antiquities, chiefly 
Arom tho buried city of Victoria, near 
biber, two miles to the north of the town. 7a 
the collection are several Tutelar genii; one of 
bronze, whose inscription informs us that it bad 
been erected by fourteoi veterans (their naaes 
are inscribed on the basis), and other militaiy 
personi^ on the 23rd of September, 246 mjOw 
Besides thes^ there is silver hi plate^ bnmai), 
sandstone and pipe day, alabaster and te»> 
volutes, shields, arms, helmet^ iron too^ pot- 
ter's ware of all forms and materials^ and a ool* 
lection of coins, female ornament^ &e. Nona of 
the coins date hiter than 375 a.c, whi(di all Imt 
precisely setties the epoch of the destruction of 
Victoria, the ruins of which are now covered np^ 
and the green com of spring again wavea in 
serial beauty, over the bruised and broken 
nants of its andent grandeur. The 
garden of Neuwied, which is accessible to erevy 
one, is particularly deserving the tourisf s notiee. 
A small hill in it, the Sonnenberg, presents a 
most beautiful prospect of the Rhine, and af 
Andemach. At the extremity of the ga^rdsn 
you see before you, through the trellis gate^ tho 
beautifU avenoe of popUurs that laadi to Hw 



Bottle m 



K!roBii»— MVLBOFEzr— HBUinxmr. 



m 



Tfllage of Irrlioh. In fba buOdlng called the 
PhieuaBlTs Wanen, to wfaioh itnuigen are freely 
•dnrffeted, a rieh and remarkable collection of 
flatural objects nuj be aeen, wbidh the cele- 
brated natnralist, Prince MaTimilian, of Nen- 
wied, lent daring his travda in Brazil and North 
America. Thia collection contains 313 Mammalia 
and 1,700 stniTed birds; there are also in it 
many daases of the Brazilian animal reign. 

The flying bridge oyer the Bhine at Neoweid* 
greatly fiwrflltates its commerce. 

The colony of Jforovton Brci^ert, occupying 
a distinct quarter of the town will faiterest; their 
eboreh, sehoola^ and workshops, being worth 
seeing. 

▲ pleasant ezeursion eanbe made to Monrepos, 
with its park and gardens. It is situated six 
miles N.N.E. from Neuweid, and affords beanti- 
tal prospects. A pleasant road over meadow 
grounds leads us to the faronworks of R aas elhs tein, 
and thence to the pleasure park of Nothhausen, 
much frequented by Tisitors from Coblenz and 
other places. The palace or cMteauis a plain 
building ot but one story. Here the most 
beautifhl landscapes i^pear within a drcum- 
foroice of about thirty leagues* Behind the 
chfttean is a grore partitioned out into seven 
shady and deUgfitful walks ; at the end of one of 
them is a lone and poetical Talley, terminating 
at the entrance to a beantiftil beech forest. 

Wc next see to the left, Weistenthurm, or the 
White Tower. It is a village possessing a church 
decorated with modem tteacoa, and deriving 
its name from the ancient watch tower built by 
the Elector of Treves. At this spot Cesar crossed 
the Rhine, seventeen coituries before, and con- 
structed his famous bridge, described in his 
Commentariet de Ociia. The French also, in 1797, 
crossed the river at this spot under General 
Hoche, by throwing a bridge across. They met 
with severe opposition from the Austrlans on the 
occasion. To the right, on an eminence, we see 
the obelisk erected to the memory of the French 
CreneraL It bear the following inscription: — 
**The army of the Sambre and Mouse, to its 
commander, General Hoche." Thli was the 
same general who was destined to command the 
expedition into Ireland. The bed of the old lake 
here widens into an extensive and well cultivated 
plain, over which are scattered vOlas with plea- 
sure and fttdt gardens around them; and tlM 



road leavea the river and is lost slglit of also. 
gether until we near Coblenz. Vox ftr fr*esa 
here, and dose to the bank, on the right ia ■ 

EjfOBBS, with a castle built in the ancient 

French style, and a population of 860. Bcaxsdiy 

i a pistol-shot distance from it is the buttress of a 

i Roman bridge of cement, said to have bosn 

i built 38 years b.c. by Virginius Agrippa. The 

castle and the greenhouse are worth nottcs^ 

particularly the beantiftil ceiling painted by 

Zldk. 

MuLHOFSir.— A small village to the right, at tha 
mouth of the river Sayn. A road leading from 
Engers, three miles distant, and ft'om Cobletw 
eight miles distant, to the village and oh&teau of 
Sayn, wends up the valley from here. At the rear 
of the viDage of Bendorf, close by, are the cannon 
foundry and ironworlu, as large aa any of the 
great ironworks of England. The Fromonstrant 
Abbey at Sayn, founded in 1202, will interest 
deeply. Its church is built in the tranritioa 
style. At the extreme point of the valley is the 
j castle of the Counts of Isenburg. The valley is 
certainly a delightful one, containing summer- 
houses, gardens, and viUas. It forms a favourita 
object of summer visits to the pe<^le of Coblens. 
The venerable and noble Abbey of Bommersdorf 
is seen on the slope of a hiU north of the valley, 
about two mUes north of Sayn, and the same 
distance north-east of Ebgers. To the right are 
seen the walls of the Castle of Ehrentoeit- 
stein. Over against the ruins of the ancient 
Castle of Sayn, lies Mount Frederick, also called 
Renneberg, where beautlAU plantations may 
be seen and magnificent views enjoyed. To it aa 
agreeable excursion may be made from Bendori^ 
situated within a small distance from the right 
bank of the river; with its ironworks it is sur- 
rounded with ferruginous eminences which afford 
some beautiful prospects. From these eminen- 
ces you see the Rhine far below Coblenz issuing 
from among the mountains and formhig an 
union with the Moselle, near that town. Ap- 
proaching closer to Coblenz, we see on our left 
Nbukdorf, the vegetable market of Coblens. 
On the right the cottages of the vinedressers 
from Urbar range along the bank of the river 
where an excellent reddish wine is grown. Tha 
charming island of Niederwerth is next passed. 
It haa a handsome church and 762 inhahltaate.. 
On thaUCCXMacfiL ^« t»ni VSas^^ *«&8b ^^^a*^^ 



IM 



OOBIBMZ— PALAOB — tASDXO. 



[BoiiteSl 



WaDtttlMiBB, with tti d^bter, and on the right, , and is ranikxUbto fbr Ms gnat 'antiquity; ft^vaft 
on the ilopa of a mounti the hite nnnnery of i built chiefly at the expense of Loub the Pkrar 



Beiseieh. 

To the left, near Kesselhetm, are the remains 
oftheofa&tean of SiMnbbamJugt, the residence 
of the Bourbon prtaices during their exile from 
France at the French Revolution. Near the 
confluence of the Mosdle and Rhine, to the left, 
Is the monument to General Marceau, who feU 
on the field of Alteiddrchen, in endeavouring to 
check the retreat of Jourdan. Before reaching 
Coblens the vall^ widens considerably, the 
mountains of the Hundsrueck on the left side 
terminate, and those of the Eifisl are still distant 
tram the bank of the river, the oninences of 
Westerwald, <»> the Mew Forest also recede a 
little on the right hand, and thus the tourist is 
environed with a grand natural panorama. At 
Coblens the Moselle and Rhine unite, and the 
road passing under the works of the Emperor 
Francis, sometimes called Fort Marceau, crosses 
the former stream by a stone bridge and enters 
CoUenc. Extending along the banks we see 
the fanmense^palace of the Electors of Treves, as 
the steamer reaches her berth. Should our entry 
take place at the close of the day, the silvery 
stream gets tinged with the last crimson clouds 
of evenintr, and the numerous old towers and 
turrets of Coblens, sleeping in the shade, look 
well in the dusky twilight, and impart to the 
scene an aspect of sombre beauty. 

CUiblenz.— Hotels :~ 

Hotel du Geant one of the best on the Rhine. 

Landlord, Mr. Schurtz. 
Hotel de Belle Vue— first-rate, and highly re- 

commended. Landlord, Mr. Hoche. 
Hotel des Trols Suisse. 

Coblens, the ** Confluentes ** of the Romans^ is 
a strongly fortified town on the right bank of the 
Rhfaie, and left of the M oselle ; cspital of Rhenish 
Prussia, with a population of 26,000, including 
4,000 military. It occupies a large triangle, form- 
ed by the influx of the Moselle into the Rhine. 
Coblenz is adorned by many fine buildings, 
squares, and avenues of trees. The old castle, 
near the Moselle bridge, possesses historical into. 
rort^bsrlng been the aojoum of several emperors. 



in whose presence it was conseerated In SM 
There met the grandsons of Charlemagne^ to 
diride amongst them his mighty emigre into 
Germany, France, and Italy. On the left of the 
chancel stands the beautiftil tomb of Cnno of 
Falkenstein, archbishop of Treves, vrith a pahiUny 
of the Crucifixion, attributed to the old Germaif 
master, William of Cologne. Here, also, Edward 
III. of England, was hutaOed Vicar of tlia Bnu 
ptre, by Lewis of Bavaria. 

The cellars under the grammar school, fonMriy 
a Jesuit's convent, are worth visiting flrom ttaeif 
great extent, containing about 300 tbIi^ h^ 
400,000 bottles of Rhine and Moselle wfaias^ 
and are the property of Messrs. Delnthard antf 
Jordan, bankers and wine merchants. Fran' 
the vicinity of this town to the wine dlstricti^ 
it forms the great depdt for the export of their' 
produce, as also of the seltzer waters of Naasan, 
and the various volcanic productions ol Am 
neighbourhood. 

The Palace, extending its long and handsome 
facade above the bridge of boats, with ita prin- 
cipal front to the great square, where the troops 
drill and band play, between 12 and 1 o'dk>dc 
each day. 

The new Palaee of Juttice, oontafailng the 
Law Courts. 

The Casino, is a handsome building, haria^ 
connected with it good reading-rooms, ball- 
rooms, and gardens, and^is worth visiting. 

The Church of England sendee is perfiMmed 
in the Palace Chapel twice each Sunday. 

The /ore{/lcations of Cobienz are of vaat extent; 
of these Ehrenbreitstein is the most remarkaWfy 
having cost it is ssid, 5^000,000 dollars. The 
works were completed after being about twenty 
years in process of erection. The ramparts have 
no casements only a sidewall carried up along the 
I moat. Covered towers, that rise up firom the 
deep to the glads, and with their batteries, fonn 
the projecting angles, command the vriiole 
length of the moat. The bastions of the Moodle 
bridge-gate, the Loehr gate, and the Munts gate 
appear to be stronger than the rest. F<nta 
M«XBXkdL«e axA Oras^wa\5B«s above the towi^ 



The Church qf SU Castor^ at the very con- '. couanaai^^ ^'a ^e«*^ ^ "^^"S*^*^ **^ ^***''*^ 
auence of the two riren, and distinguished by \ t:kxe BaJnAK^cV. '^^^^^'f'^ '*'^^^ 
i^fourtawerB. dMtee from 836, ia worth a Ttait. \ theUY^ta^^ «.^^os^^«v^^^^«^«^^ ^ 



BoQtoSg 



OOBLEKZ. 



108 



tbuBiaa mooiit. The prospeet a^Joyed from the 
beightb most beautiftiL AH the works of the 
fortificati(nu are eniironed by a pleasant wood. 
A railroad of cast iron, with stone stairs in the 
centre, takes yon up westward, almost per- 
pendicularly to the top. From Ehrenbreit- 
ttein, the most charming prospect shadows 
Itself forth. In the foreground, Coblenz 
borders the stream, Umited by two islands, 
€aeh of which formerly had a cloister. 
Behind the town, rising on high, are the threat* 
ening fortifications of the Carthusian momit. In 
the plain there are more than 30 villages visible, 
and each point of view presents a new and enchant* 
ing landscape. Along the foot of the mount and 
losing itself in the turning of the val^jr, near aplea- 
sant mineral^ring that issues from a hill, extends 
the little village of Muehlheim, 2,500 inhabitants, 
commonly called the Vall^ of Ehrenbreitstein, 
The objects worth notice hi the old town, are, 
besides the church of St. Castor, already n\en. 
tloaed, the monument in front of this church, 
erected by the French in 1812. It consists of a 
tuontain, bearing an inscription, commemorative 
of the invasion of Bussia by the French : to 
which was added, by Gerard St. Priest, the 
Bussian commander, on his way to Paris, when 
pursuing the discomfited army of Napoleon, the 
following, "seen and improved of by us, the 
Bussian commander of the town of CoUenz;" the 
Liebfrauen Kirche, a curious building erected in 
1259; the Protestant church, remarkable for its 
painted glass windows, similar to those in the 
Jerusalem chamber at Westminster; the Moselle 
bridge, built in 1344, and commanding an agree- 
able view of the river and the venerable old 
buildings along the quay, and the ancient Town 
Hall, originally the castle of the electors of 
Treves, now a Japan manufactory ; the Stainhuis^ 
in which resided the late Prince Mettemich, and 
the Hospital. 

In the environs of Coblenc are Mosselweiss, a 
pretty village, much resorted to for recreation; 
Mettemich, eight miles distant, at the foot of 
the Kriimmelberg. Here are the sources which 
supply Coblenx with water by pffet which pass 
over the bridge of the Moselle. This river is 
navigable to a great distance beyond Treves* 
darUtgr the whole of*M ooutm fhmi that city to 
it0 motttb, 147 mOet, It is dosed in by moun- 
ila^ wbick fum B oontinued fertet of tbe 



most diversilted landscapes, in consequence 
oftherinuosities of the stream. German steamers 
ply between Coblenz and Treves, from which 
place to Metz is navigated by a French eonqmny. 
Besides the beautiful valley of the Moselle itseU; 
which contains some of the most picturesque 
river scenery in Germany, many of the adjacent 
valleys are well worth a visit. 

Coblenz being one of those points on Oie 
Bhine ftom whence so many intonating excur- 
sions may be made, it is well, if possible, to make 
it a halting place for some days. Among Oie 
places most worth visiting are the following :— 
the Pfaffendorfer Hohe, a hill on the same ride 
with Ehrenbreitstein, and commanding almost 
as fine a view; the hUl of the Chartreuse; the 
castle of Stolzenfels, three miles up, on the ri|^t 
bank of the Bhine— vehicles there and back one 
dollar; to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest 
hill near the town ; Lahnstein, on the 1^ bank; 
Sayn and the abbey of Bommersdorf ; abbqr and 
lake of Laach; castle of Elx; Nenwied and 
Marksburg; more distant. Ems and Nassem. 
The neighbouring forests abound in game. 

Conveyances. — Eilwagen to Ems, KrenxxiMli, 
Treves, and Wiesbaden. Steamers several times 
daily to Biebrich, Mi^Srence^ and Mannheim ; as 
also to Bonn, Cologne, Dusseldorl^ and Botter- 
dam. Steamers ascend the Moselle as ftr ac 
Treves and Mets. 

At Coblenz the direct road to the Brunen cf 
Nassau leaves the Bhine. A great part of it is 
uninteresting, whilst some of the finest soenecy 
of the Bhine lies between Coblenz and Bisigen ; 
and hence, to those wishing to ea^lore tte 
beauties, the post-road by the left bank as Ump ac 
Bingen, where it crosses the river Bhdngau and 
turns off to Wiesbaden, is preferable. In this 
case an excursion to Ems ought to be made, end 
to the Castle of Nassau, eight miles fttrthir. 
The cost of a carriage to Ems is 4^ dollars. 

The tour of the Mosellb to Treves oen be 
made from Coblenz, returning on the rhrer by 
steamer; or, if not all the way to Treves, a twe 
days excursion might be made to Miinater- 
Maifield, the Castle of Biz, and the village of Alf 
— situated on the Motelb^^ %. v^o^. 
mo8tbeKo^uV.in«onn «sJfl^:^— ^s^^*^ 
ot "BerttlcYi. tc^^a^^s^ « 



104 



COBLEHZ 70 MATEarCI. 



and •hrabbcfiw; it wffl if«n TCiNv A vWt. Bi 
principal ol^eets of •ftrMfloa uettM JS«|««4 
•n aiwrtment iMdntod wUk ftwooi^ byBtflto 

reprvMDtbigtiM knlglitly virtuM, bjieoMtta 
biatoiy, U.r-4ha dairtli of the bUBdUng, John 4 
Bobeml% at tbo Imttto of Crwcy —Covragat 
Hermui tob StobeBflioken uiwbtg the Bmpcnr 
Barbarooa by esiMMlng hlniMlf to «h« Gfuipl 

and raturn to Coblena by tha right bank on a . a«MhM,ha?togflntlbreedth0ampen>rtriflM. 

Bewand bad oarriaffo road. | Fidalitj: The Emperor nBderick IL iv«««b« 

Omnibmei to Ems sereral tfanee a day, and | bis bride, babeHa Flaatagaaety ifater to Heon 

eabe are much cheaper when hired at the Hotel, m. L^e. BCnrfe: FhlBp of Swabfai ^ 



tfarooffh Metteml^ to Loanlnlf, to Miiarter- 
MalfMd, to the hm above Eb^ where we leave 
the carriage going to Oondorf; cronhig the 
If oselle by a Httj to NiederfbQ, tdiere refreeh- 
ment Is taken. Bla can be eeea, a walk made 
to Moselkem or ta Hataenport, where a boat 
takes us down the rirer to Gondorfor-Cobera, 
where we recron the rircr, meet our carriage, 



BOUTB 22. 

to MajcBee. 



his wife and mlnstrds mflhig dowB the Shtaa 
Jnstiee: Rodolph of Bapaborgh 



Distance by the post road along the left bank » ^ ^^ !> •*<»• P^rsereraaoe, repreaeBfad tf 

Oodftny of BonUloB haaglBgnp hk arm* Jta thi 
church of the Holy Sepulchre. Sta. Ocnoi^ 
George, BCanrioe^ and Retohold ara paki<^l sa 
the window. In another room then f«rnM 
armoury, and in itare to be seen th« awwt^ of 
Tilly, Blncher, Napoleon, Mural, 9tOk Q9MB 
Victoria, accompanied by the King of Ttmih 
Tisited this eafftle in 1845. Fk^MnherBtoKi^eDeib 
both banks of the Lahn, and the right baiAtf 
the Rhine belong to Nassau. It la the wmI 
beautiAiUy situated of all the Rhine oaatfai^ ogb* 
manding a prospect up the rirer aa fhr as 4i 
▼alley of the Drinkholder spring, with Rheoiib 
Oberlahnstein and Bfarksburg indtaded. Oppo- 
site is the lovely valley of the Lahn, and tki 
confluence of that rirer with the Rhine; wUb 
down the stream the view embraoea CobtaH* 
with its fortiftcatlons, andjtho m^ww^^i— tf 



ef the Rhine, 66 English mUes. Conveyances : 
Steamers five or six times daily, performing the 
voyage up in 8 hours, and down in 6 hours. 
SchneUpoat daily to Mayence in 9 hours, and , 
to Rreuanach, by Bingen, in 7| hours. « 

Above Coblens the long ridges of the moun- 
tains begin to hem in the Rhine, wliioh extends 
as far as Bingen, flowing tlirough a contracted 
gorge. An unrivalled scenery here presents 
itself to the eye. The broken fhigments of 
Ibudal castles, the mouldering ruins of their dis- 
Bumtled battlements, with the walled towns and 
venerable buildings, form the moat prominent 
features in the scene, which Is dtubly heightened 
by the historical associations connected with 
eadi and every ol^ect that bursts upon the 
astonished rislon. Leaving Coblens we pass 
Forts Alexander and Constantino on the left, and 



on the right banks see the fortified fort which | Andemach fai the distance. 



nirmounts the heights of Pfaffendor^ situated I 
above a vfllage of the same name. Proceeding 
on, we pan Horchheim, whtch is the list Prussian 
village, and see oiq>oalte to it the Island of Ober- 
Werth, on which is built the country house of 
Count PfafltBubofan. Three miles or so above 
Coblenz we behold one of the most interesting 
eastles on the Rhine, beautiful in its picturesque 
outline and commanding position, it may Justly 
be styled the Proud Rook. It Is called the castle of 
StoUe/^elSf and was buUt by one of the arch- 
bishops of Treves. The wife of the Emperor 



There isaferry firom Stolsenfbla to LahiatriBi 
and another over the mouth of the Lahn; s 
carriage road leads to Ems, up the left baiik«f 
this river. 

We approadb the mouth of the Lahn, widd 
issues slowly firom a chasm navigable foranal 
vessels as high up as Weibery. At this wpaH At 
Russians crossed the Rhine in 1814. The Lslm 
carrios a great number of minerals with It faito 
the Rhine, and above its mouth, to the right, on 
the top of a rock, is the castle of Lahned^ Bk« 
a mourning Naiad weephig as it were over Hi 
ruined grandeur. There is Oberlahnstein. M 



Frederick II., and dster of Henry III., king of 

England, was received and lodged in this castle | old walled town, with a conspicuous red bnilA**ff 

hi 1235. A very good carriage road leads up to I at the edge of the Rhine, once a oaatle of tbs 

A aarf abaai it thero atm werj pretty pLaaUtkaa \ liiMtena oiC MaveDce; near it it. a 




aWS (BH linns mSHlBii. 




TJSWS ciH ifiim KB'i^'S.- 



Route 23] 



BHBIiafl— XARKSBUBO— BOPPABT. 



10ft 



^bapel among ttee§, where, in 1400, the depod- 
tion of the emperor WenoesUtu, was pro- 
nounced, and the election of Rupert In his place 
eifected by the electors. Below the mouth of this 
lirer is the church of St. John, a venerable ruin. 
Its choir and columns are worth inspection. At 
a short distance from it, on the right hand baiik 
of the Lahn, is the Tillage of Nieder-Lahnstein, 
from whence we cross to Stolzenfels by ferry. 

&BXIISS (Inn : Zum Konigstuhl), a very antique | 
town, scarcely altered since the middle ages. It 
has many timber houses, and still retains a 
medisBval German aspect. Near it is the Konigs- 
itiihl (King's seat), an open Taulted hall, with 
seven stone seats for the -seven electors, who 
used to meet in it to discuss affairs of state. 
In this little town many treaties of peace were 
made and signed ; emperors were dethroned, and 
■oeptres crasolidated by the strength and alUanoe 
ct centuries, withered into clay, whilst dynasties, 
inopped «p by the traditions of ages, were set 
■side aad others substituted in their plaqe. A 
beautiftil view Is enjoyed from the terrace and 
windows of the castie. The Rhine here assumes 
ft ireacj broad expanse. Seated in a vslley and, 
as it were^ solemnly reposing in the shade, we see 

BRAUB40H (Inn ; Zur Fhilipsbnrg) a little town 
to the ri^t, located at the base of a lofty rock 
OB wUeh stands the strong and feudal fortress — 
tiie castle of Marksbnrg, described below. It 
is worth a visit; and a magnificoit view can 
be enjoyed from the summit of the d<n^)on 
keep. The castie is distant about seven miles 
from Ems, and is i^proached by a very passable 
road. Outside the town is a beautiful mineral 
^>ring of delicious water. Persons desirous 
of visiting Marksburg ftt>m the left bank of 
the Bhine, must cross the river at Nierderqwy, 
where there is a ferry. In the romantic valley 
Burroonding Branbach there are oopper and { 
silver nines. On the top of a mass of rode | 



MAiunBOBV — A fbrtress of the middle ages, 
in perfect preservation, being the only one of the 
Bhlne ea^tles which has escaped destnictioii. It 
Is situated on a lofry rode, was used as a state 
prison, Irat recently as an inllrmarr, or rather It 
IS garrisoned by invalids. It Is well worth visiting) 
as a remarkable specimen of those terrlUe 
stvongholdt w«re "power dwelt amidst her 
' narrow and myittrloas pMMigeik dim* 



goons cut in the living rock, are ^ere to be teeo^ 
among these fs one called the Hundlodi (dog 
hole), into which prisoners were let down 1^ ik 
windlass, and another the horribe Folterkammci^ 
(chamber of toriure). A cell is pointed ontn 
the one in which the emperor Henry lY. waf 
confined. After viewing these diamal records ti 
human cruelty, the tourist may ascend the doi^oti 
keep and take a view of the surrounding scenery;^ 
which is picturesque in the extreme. Thi 
^pearance of the country on the right noW 
becomes wilder and more romantic. A limit 
sandbank stretches across the bed of the river, 
and the Rhine rolls its waves past Peterspay. 
lOttiespay and Noberspi^ seen on the left. Th# 
Rhine here takes one of its largest curves, but li 
soon repelled again into its proper channel by the 
mount of Boppart. The mountains now appear 
less picturesque, they being generally flattened 
or rounded. The charming castie of Leibeneck 
riaea majestically above Osterspay, which may be 
called a neat orchard. More to the right, about 
two<and-a<half miles beyond Braubadi, is tii# 
Dinkholder Brunnen, a frmous mfaieral spring. 

Boppart.— Hotels : 
Hotel du Rhln. 
Post. 
Rheinisdier Hof. 

An andent walled town, population 4,091. 
This is a gloomy but interesting places of 
Roman origin, having been one of the 60 eastisi 
of Dmsns on the Rhtaie. In it are the rematat 
«f the palace of the Frankish kings, and tfai 
ndns of a fine chapel. Behind the town is the 
andent nunnery of Marienbergh, now an estab* 
llshment for the water-cure. The walls of the 
Roman castrum, a quadrangle of strong ma- 
sonry, still exist in the heart of the town. The 
situation of Boppart Is remarkably beautiftiL 
The streets of Boppart are very narrow and darit^ 
but possess many attractions Ibr the arddteet 
and antiquary, many of the bidl Angs pr e senting 
great peculiarities of ardiltectore. 

Approaching Salslg on the left, the mo un t a hl i 
recede a little from the banki^ and give plaoe te 
com fields and meadows. We next see the 
mouldering battiemeiits and rohted tewert ef 
Sternberg and Ltobenstefai opposite, to the right 
of Salslg, seated on a lofty rodi^ dothed wHh 
vines. The traditione eonneoMd "w^s&i ^&ff^ 
hlilory 



106 



ST. GOAR— ST OORHAUSESr. 



[Route 22 



called the brothers, from the fact of two 
hrothors haring redded in them. The brothers 
fsll in love with the one lady, and became foea^ 
and fell by each other's sword. These ruins 
have a beautiful appearance if you look on 
them from the left bank of the Rhine A pic- 
turesque Talley in which Bomholmlies, formerly 
a cloister of Capuchins, together with some 
houses winding along the eminences, on whose 
fummits you behold those ruins. A walk, 
•haded by walnut-trees, takes you from the 
cloister to the Tillage of Kamp. You now be- 
hold Salzig, an agreeable village, with large 
plantations of cherrytrees, and a population of 
6,112 inhabitants. Near Hirzenach the river 
takes an easterly turn. On the right bank you 
see the village of Kester, with its demolished 
pariah church. Opposite to it rises a high wall 
of rocks, at its foot girded with vineyards, and 
on its summit crowned with wood. Tou next 
behold Erenthal, a village were there is.^an 
abundance of silver, lead, and copper mines. 
In the whole district from Wesel to below 
Uirsnacb, there are basalt, slate, lime, marble, 



and other minerals. A beautifid scenery now 
expands itself before the voyager : Welmich, 
with its gothic tower and picturesque environs 
now appear, and behind it the old walls of the 
castle of Thurnberg, built by Kuno V. Falkein- 
sten, archbishop of Treves, in 1363, peer down 
upon you. It is a so called the mouse, to distin- 
guish it from a castle called the cat, whidi is 
above St. Grrli^.u^^er. The scenery now is 
rich in the extreme, fertile gardens and luxuriant 
meadow-ground are spread out from Welmich 
to the very bank of tlie Rhine. On the right 
we see St. Goar and Rhinefels, whilst below 
Welmich the river makes a great curve towards 
the north forming a line bay, surrotmded by 
eminences. To the left, close above the town 
of St» Goar we see the most extensive ruin on 
the Rhine, namely, the fortress of Rheinfels. 
This immense stronghold wss built in 1245 by a 
coimt of ELatzenellnbogen, to levy duties on 
the passing merchandise; but, pushing his ex- 
tortions too far, he was besieged by the people of 
the adjacent towns, who, for fifteen months, 
endeavoured to reduce the castle, but without 
success : it fell afterwards, however, with most 
of the other robber'denat before the confederacy 
(^,tbe Q^rmttn smd Rhine towns. 1% beeain^ 



afterwards, in the hands of the LandgraTO of 
Hesse, a modem fortress, which baffled the 
French in 1692, but was taken and blown up by 
them in 1794. An inn has been buflt in tiie 
midst of the ruins, fh>m whence is a magnificent 
view. The country now changes its aspect as if 
by magic; from the gloomy rocky gul^ you oiter 
a cheerfU and pleasant valley, and see aU round 
you eminences covered with leafwood, or planted 
with vines and gardens, beautifully along the 
banks of the river, expanding itself like a sleeping 
serpent. 

St. Goar, with a population of 1,500 inhabi- 
tants. A cheerful little town, and vwy 
desirable as a sojourn for the purpose of 
making excursions in the vicinity, as It lies in 
the midst of some of the finest of the Rhino 
scenery, and is therefore well placed for a fev 
days halt. This town is also famous for its ssl- 
mon fishery. Near it is a dangerous nq^ called 
the Bank, and below this the whirlpool Oewlrr. 
A very fine view is to be had flrom the hei^iti 
above St. Goar, rising directly In the fluse of 
the Lurleiberg. It is approached 1^ a foo^otlk 
leadhig out of the high-road to Bruges, shortHj 
before coming to the Trumpeter^s grotto. 

The Protestant Church, near the centre of tiM 
town, is worth a visit ; it is erected over the crypt 
of the old church of St. Goar, built In 1646. Is 
the Roman CathoUc Church of St. Goar, there 
is a rude image of that hermit, who, it is said, to 
prove his holiness, hung up his (doak on a son- 
beam. To the right, some delightftd excura&ooi 
and views may be had flx>m the Nassau bank of 
the Rhine, and boats are always at hand to brinff 
visitors over the river. Opposite St. Goar is 

li^t. Gorhaasen, 800 inhabitants, still partly 
surrounded with its old walls. Here begins tlte 
Forstbach, or Swiss Valley, cdebrated for its 
beauty, being traversed by a dear stream, tana- 
ing numerous cascades, between, preoipltoas 
masses of rode. At the entrance of this vaUey 
stands the castle of the Cat, a very pictaresqao 
object, built in 1393, by John III., Count of 
Neu^tzenehibogen; an excellent red whieis 
grown here on the Putersberg, equal In rlebneai 
to that of Assmanshausen. On the right of St. 
Gorhausen we see the demolished castle of 
Rheinick. In this part there are diannlDX *sl- 
leys. Those wishing to ascend the Unberg dii* 




::i:''-~... 



Boute 22^ 



OBBSWESELr— OUTENFELA-<-CAUB. 



107 



On the same side, but a little above St. 
Gorbaosen, the black perpendicular precipice of 
the Lurleiberg rises abruptly from the water's 
edge, opposite to which on the road side, is a 
grotto, in which is stationed a man who, with a 
bugle or by firing a pistol, awakens the echo of 
the Lurlei, which is said to repeat sounds flfteea 
times. Above this, in midchannel, and visible 
at low water, are the rodcs called the Seven 
Sisters, the subject of a legend. 

UberweseL— Inns : 
GlonLocksem. ' 

Rheinischer Hof. 
Tricrlscher Hof. 
Goldener Pfrapfeuzicher. 

The Vesalia of the Romans. A small town of 
2,500 hihabitants ; very interesting to visit, and 
deCghtAilly situated. The church of Our Lady 
in Oberwesel is considered a model of the Gothic 
atjie ; in St.Mar tin's is a *' Descent from theCross,'* 
by Diepenbrock. The picturesque appearance of 
this town is much increased by its turreted walls 
and the lofty round tower called the Ox Tower, 
by the water side. The village of Engeholle is 
well worth a visit. Above this place the Rhine 
forms a lake, which appears to be entirely 
blocked up by rocks. The view is sublimely 
grand, and magnificently striking. Beyond the 
lake the river makes a curve; its waves rebound 
from a groupe of rocks partly visible and partly 
concealed troia view, and form a frightAil whirl- 
pool called the bank. Immediately below the 
bank there is another whirlpool called the Gewirr, 
which, according to tradition, was formerly con- 
nected with Bfaigerloch, by a subterraneous 
chasm. The former whirlpool has often proved 
fktal to shippers, especially to the rafts, the fore- 
part of which is frequently sucked five or six 
feet under the surfSsce, and the crews plunged 
up to their nedcs in water, and many a rower 
has found a grave beneath the deep blue 
waters foaming round him. Tradition hands 
us down a mystic legend in connection with this 
spot, representing it as haunted by a beautifril 
syren, whose deeply rich and magic melody 
begruUed the passing boatmen to overwhelm 
and drown them in the cavern of her briny 
palaces. 

To the left, the next objtdot interest we meet 
a Sehamberff, a ruined caMe buHt on & rock, 
mJ oace tba dwelling of an illustrious family of 



the same name, from whicJh sprung MandMl 
Schomberg, the general of William the Third, 
at the Battle of the Boyne, in Ireland. It is 
called the beautifiil hill, fr^m the ftct of seven 
daughters of the house, who were as lovely aa 
ihey were cold hearted, being turned into seven 
rocks, seen to this day below Oberwesel, rising 
out of the bed of the river. 

GuTENFELS to the right, a ruined castle, si- 
tuated above the town of Caub, upon a steep 
moimt. Tradition derives it as named from a 
fair lady named Gauda, a fkvourite of Richard of 
Cornwall, Emperor of Germany, the brother of 
Henry III. of England. In 1807, it was sold for 
the consideration of a few hundred florins. 
There is, on a projecting point of rock, a watch 
house, which seems to be suspended in the air, 
from it you behold with giddy looks the r*v€r 
rolling by deep below you. It was here Gustavus 
Adolphus, in the thfarty years* war, issued his 
orders against the Spaniards, who had taken 
their station on the opposite bank. 

Caub is seen on the right bank. It has ISOG 
inhabitants. It is chiefly remarkable for its 
slate quarries, which are considerable, and as' 
being Just close the spot where Blndier crossed 
the Rhine, on tiie 1st of January, 1814. IVom 
the heights above tiie Rhine first was seen by the 
Prussians who gave one loud and exulting cbeer, 
shouting The KMnt I Iht Rhine! A toll is paid 
here to the Duke of Nassau by all vessels navi- 
gating tbe Rhine. The Duke is now the only 
person who exacts this feudal Impost, though a 
couple of centuries since all vessels had to 
pay thirty-two tolls on their voyage of the Rbine.> 
Opposite Caub, in tbe centre of the river, we see 
the fine old castie of Ffatx, bniU in the sixteaitii 
century by the Emperor Lewis for a toll house. 
To this little island Louis le Debonnaire rettred- 
to die in 840. Tradition informs us that Ffaic 
served as a place of refuge for the Countesses' 
Palatine during thehr accoudbements, but the 
story is very improbable, to say the least of it.' 
The ca^e can only be approaehed by a ladder, 
and a portcullis closes the only entrance to it. 
In remote times the dur geons underneath served 
as a prison for state pri#oners. 1>o^r«w*x*%^««». 
Ca\i!b 1\iftN«\N«3\»%«^TEvwt»vsasaBs*e«i*^?^«»*»* 

t\ie mo>mXs>Tv^ ^T*.^ ^•^'^ Ift^^ 

towt« »i^4 ^^^'*^;:t:"^xr^^^^-^ 



106 



BAOHARAU— UMtCHAUSBK— IXXBGH. 



|_Boatfi22. 



eMtlMandeloiftan>of i4flh,ADdof tibewbiripoo], i l^tlMiDoaiitelnfOiitlieltniMnlc. Tbettroumr 

and other pbenooieQa of natara. 1 vinM thrire oa the hifl^ert cmineoeei^ hot tte 

BACHARAHiibailtaloiigthebankoftheRhfaie. | moitwholeiomeon«i in the middle regloiii;mdi 



Its aBtlqiie walle aod open towera, b« whksh it is 
encircled, are piotnretque and omaoiental. Tlie 
monut against which toe town ia leoUned, ia 



as are produced in the low grounds become OM>re 
potable at a later period. Higher up from 
Lorchausen ia the ruin of the ancient caatHe of 



planted with Tines as h^gh up at the ruins of tlie NoDiEceo, from wliich a very interesting view 



oasUe. The excellent quality of the wine of this 
piaoe, to wliioh the vaUe.vs of Steig, Mftoebach, 
and Dttbadi belong, together with tliat ot the 
a^JAoeat eminences, the SckUmbe^ VogUbarg, 
and fueAIboy, is guaranteed by two respectable 
Mstorioal witnesses. Pope Pius II., better known 
as Aneas SUtus. ordered a tun of it to be sent 
annoaUy to Rome, and the town of Norlmberg 
was granted its flreedom by the Emperor Wen- 
oeslau^ in return forfour casks of it. Bacharah 
is the birth-pfatoe of the celebrated painter 
Kudielchea. 

The ruins of StabUek, on the left, should be 
idslted from this place, where one of the most 
beautiful views expands itself before h^m. The 
castle was of considerable extent, and seemed to 
have been buiU on the ruins of a roman strong, 
hold. It was the seat of the Electors of Palatine 
until 1253, and is now the property of tlie Queen 
of Prussia, theu- descendant. Close below the 
onstle stands the mutilated skeleton of the church 
of St. Werner, a beautlAil specimen of gothic 
architecture, with its lofty painted window, ex- 
hibiting a perfect specimen of the most perfect 
tracery work. ** Should the traveller stop here, 
be ought to devote an hour or two to visit the 
castle of Stahleck, and enjoy the magnificent 
proqteet seen from it."— ^. C 

Immediately under the town there is an isle 

in the Rhine of about thirty acres. Between 

this and the left bank of the Rhine there lies a 

stone called Ara Bacchi. Its i^pearance above 

water is hailed with Joy by the vintner as a prog. 

n o stioati o n of a good vintage. 

. Lorchausbv is seen to the right. It Is a small 

▼Uage that marked the ancient geognH;>hical 

border of the Rhine. Above the village, on the 

Biehofrberg, are seen the ruhis of the frontier 

fortress of Sareck, also Ofq^te to it the ruinous 

(dolster of Winsbaoh. As far as this place the 

JUbioe flows frmn east to west, which lays the 

nAM!F3ardr open to tba influence of the noontide 



can be had. A beautiful ground forms itself 
near the village of Rheindebach, above wMeh 
rise the round keep tower and shattered walb 
of the Furstouburg, reduced to a ruin l^ the 
French in 1689. On the right is 

LoRCH A village of 1800 inhabitanta^ bvflt 

into the Wlsperthal, or Valley of Whispers^ on 
the right bank of which rises the Kedrich, or 
Devil's iAdder, a rocky height, at the top of 
which is the casUe of Nolliogen. 

The district of the 2ZAaiHfaii> or Rhine, oonw 
mences here and extends along the rixht bank 
as far as Wallof, including the vineyards wnidi 
produce the most famous wines. 

To tlie left we soe the the ruins ot the caiUs 
of Weiinburg, and higher up ia tlie tuRVted 
ruin of Sonneck, originally a robber castle, de- 
stroyed by the Emperor Rudolph, in 1282. 

Approaching Bingen and Asamanshausei^ we 
see what may be truly styled the castellated 
Rhine. Theae castellated ruins, the moss, 
covered stones, and prostrated halls^ all q;>eak 
forcibly of the past ; and, whilst calling up in 
every one of their broken particles the monocy 
of other days, cannot but remind the student, 
the historian, and the traveller, of the hai^j 
change which has been effected from feudal bar- 
barism to dvil and constitutional principles. As 
we proceed along, we are attracted by the caatle 
of Reichausteln, or Falkenburg, which stands oa 
our left, on a lofty Jut of the rock, once a dread* 
ful den of robbers* destroyed by Rodolph of 
Hapsburg, whilst fUrther up, on the same banl^ 
is the castle of Rheinstein, built on a projecting 
rock that rises from the bank of the river. Not 
far from here, between the road and the river, 
rises beautiful and grand the gothie church, 
dedicated to St. Clement, rescued from a state 
of ruin by Prince Frederick of Prussia. AH, or 
nearly all, these stronghold of feudal robbery 
were destroyed at the close of the thirteenth 
century, by a decree of the Diet the EnqilrB. 



saa_, mad thm aorth Mad «ut winds are averted \ "^^^ ^s"^*^ ^t ^^OiS&aitein is aeen to th* kit; Ow 



Bonte 22j 



▲SSUAMHAUSKH— THE ItOSSEU 



in 



niiiuhaye been partially restore^ so as to serve 
as a summer retreat for Prinoe Frederick of 
Prussia, The interior is well worth a minute 
bapectioiv and travellers will find no difficulty 
hk getting access to it, there being a servant 
constantly there, who wHl shew visitors round it. 
Below Rhetnstein there Is a narrow pass, where, 
imtil very lately, there was demanded a Jew^ iott. 
The contractors kept small dogs trained to single 
out and seise the Hebrew children, whose race 
Jiave given us all that we hold dear, whether we 
regard the semetie principle always conservative I Mount Rochus, with its pretty chapel; t« your 



better inns, should be preferred. TontratottDM 
to an open rotunda or small temple, where aai 
of the most charming prospects on flie BUb* 
greets the eye of the l)ehoMer, not surpassed by 
any in Germany. Pleasant psOis serpentln* 
tiirough a wood free from underwood. Th» 
Rhine glides down before you, beQiangled wMh 
town-like hamlets and towns, diurdiei^ ifflM^ 
vinehUls and mountains of verdant hue. Qppo» 
site lies Bhigen, at the foot of a hJD, bearing tte 
ruins of a castle of Drusus; to the left 



of the great elements of society, or the Divine 
Kaiarene bom frt>m a Jewish midden to redeem 
and oonservate a follen world. 

AssxAHHAVasH is seen to the right. AU along 
between here and Ehrenfels, the terraced ddes 
Df the monntainare covwed with vineyards, rising 
one above another to the very summit, kept up 
by strong stone walls of from five to eight feet 
liigh ; in fkct, the vin^ards are nothing more 
than a succesdon of terraces, extending from 
the top to the bottom of the hills, some of which 
are near 1,000 feet high. Great and severe 
labour is required from the vinedressers in the 
cultivation of the vine in these places, who have 
to carry every particle of manure, and even the 
soil itself, on their shoulders to the hills. And 
jfetf notwithstanding their severe labours, you 
behold them cheerM and happy. The culture 
of the vine, tiiough it involves much and inces- 



right the Nahe mixes its waters with thoed uf 
the Rhine, and on the left bank of tfaat river 
you behold Mount Rupert, with the ruhis tit a 
cloister. Near the tower of SQce or MseosefhtDm 
the rolling waves of the Rhine disnipear bel weai 
the dreary mountidns of slate in an aibym, TIm 
spectator drags himself away ttom that dunn- 
ing spot, wishing ever and anon to return to It 
and daguerreotype the charming picture deeply fai 
his mind. From the temple we proceed to tiM 
Rossely or the foremost top of the mederwald 
and shudder as we look into the gloomy golf 
formed by the mountains on either side^ risinf 
in high perpendicular masses after a very plo- 
turesque fashion. The ruins of the caade of 
Ehrenfels hangs like an eaglets ejxie bdow, on 
the beetUng rocks^ andseemstobe threatened 
alike by the tooth of time and by the swelUqf 
waves. The tumbling stream disappears aa tf 



lant labour, is yet uncertain and contingent on engulpbed by the 9bjm bdow, and its hoOow 
the weather, which, if severe^ may in a few 
hours destroy the entire vintage, and there being 
no oom crops to supply its place, the cultivator 
is deprived of his sole means of subsistence. 

Among the numerous sorts of Rhenish wines 
. remarkable for their superior excellence^ those 
of Laubenheim, Bischhim, and Assmanhausen 
are redconed the most pleasant; those of Hoch. 
beim, Johannisberg, and Geisenheim are the 
most aromatit^ and those of Nierstein, Marks- 
brun and Rudeshelm are the strongest and 
most spirituous. The Emperor Probus first 
introduced the culture of the vine on the Rhine 
and Moselle. The vintage of tiie Rhine does 
not take place now until November. 



TheBoueL Assmanhausen is a good starting 
point from which to make an ascent to the 
Viederwald. but Bingen, or Rudesheim, halving 



roar rises awftilly firom the deep. The upper 
limit of the gorge ofthe RUne, with all its grand 
scenery, is now reached. The river between 
Bhigen and Boppart cuts across a diain of 
mountains^ which it is scq^MMed at one time 
dammed up its waters as far as Bash, nntfl an 
earthquake, or probably the waters themselveB, 
foroed a passage and formed the present gorge 
or ravine through whidi the waters flow to tfie 
ocean. A remnant of this coloasal barrier yet 
remains^ and an artificial diannri had to be out 
through it in order to afford apassage to twi ols 
It is called Bkigen Loeh, or the Hole of the 
Bingen. The navigation of tliis part has bean 
much improved, yet to the Prussian govemmaut 
is due the credit of having widened it ft^m 90 
to 210 feet. On the left we see the small moun^- 
moit oonunemQcaMn% tA. ^Qc&a ^mse^ 
Tuktt ^ \3ba QuAa <A'S2BGE«BSAa^&s»'^^^ 



««i 



MM 



JUI 



110 



BIKOKV. 



[Route 22 



CloM to tha left iMuik, and ift4)*c«>^t to whtro 
11m watan of the Nahe nnite vlth^e Rbine, is 
the Motue Toww, notorious for Bishop Hatto's 
tradition. **There was," it tells us, ''a great 
fkmine in all the land of the Rhine, and the 
aaen, women, and children perished for want of 
food. Crowds of the miserable peasants sur- 
romided the castle of Mentz, where Hatto held 
hisfoudal court, and implored for bread. He 
would extend his hand in benediction oyer 
them, but it held no loaf; and yet the bams of 
the archbishop were filled with grain. He 
treated them as idlers and impostors, who did 
Bot chose to work. The poor people became 



distfaiguihed itatemaa of his daj, and the flrlend 
of the Emperor Otho, wasyet a erael and per- 
fidious character. 

BnroKir. — (Inni Victoria) is ritoated fai aa 
angle of the beautiM valley of the Nahe^ the 
frontier town of the Rheno-Hesrian territory, 
has a population of 6,000 inhabitants. A oon- 
riderable entrepdt for trade in com and wines. 
The town is much firequented 1^ strangers. The 
Rhine here makes a considerable cnrre^ and tiie 
somery around is in the highest degree attracttre. 
The magnificent scenery in the neighbourhood 
is altogether loet to those who merely pass vp 
and down the river. From here an excursioa 



yet more importunate ; they disturbed his sleep, j can be made to the ruin called Klopp, or Dmsns 
and Hatto sent his bowmen to invite tiiem, — 
all they could get, the strong and the sick, old 
men and children, and shut them up in his great 
bam, to which he then set firel It was a sight 
to draw tears from a heart of flint ; and when 
they screamed, Hatto laughed and said, *Hear 
ye how the rats squeak in my bam I' But 
heaven was not blind. Swarms of rats over, 
spread the castie; no one could remain initt 
Hatto went higher and higher; they pursued 
him to the very roof. The more they were 
destroyed, the more did they increase; they 
■eemed to rise up out of the earth. Hatto fled 
to Bingen. In the midst of the river he built 
his place of refhge, and went across to it in a 
onall boat which held him alone. But the rats 
followed him over there; they swam across the 
river ; they climbed over the walls and over the 
roof, they entered through every small hole, 
above and below. They devoured Hatto alive 
they ate his very name embroidered in the 
tapestry which covered the walls of his apart- 
ment! In the morning mist which setties on 
the grey tower, the lonely fisherman sees even 
new the spirit of Hatto." Southey has versified 
this tale, against which history is decisive, for it 
teUs us that the tower of Hatto was built in the 
early part of the thirteenth century, by Arch- 
bishop Siegfried, when he opened the navigation 
of the right bank, fully 200 years after the death 
of Hatto. The similarity of the German words 
Jfaus and Thurm — ^l^us meaning rat, and 



castie. Narrow and steep stairs lead to a plat- 
form covered with luxuriant vegetation of shrubs 
and creepers ; and there are subterranean dun- 
geons below the ruins, vestiges of the feudsl 
times. From here also the traveler can set oat 
to explore the Roclensberg, Rheinstein, and the 
Niederwald, which may be done in one day. A 
boat taken from Bingen takes us down the 
Rhine to the castie of Rheinstein (page 108,) in 
twenty minutes. If we proceed on foot, a mOs 
can be saved by crossing tiie ferry, beneath the 
church, instead of proceeding round by the stone 
bridge. We cross to Assmanhausen from Rhein- 
stein, and find donkeys for Ifl. Ik., to take us up 
to the Niederwald, (page 109.) And then we 
ascend for about one mile through the gul^; 
behind the village we find a path leading tnm 
the right to the Jagd Schlois, where refreshmoiti 
can be had. This excurdon can be made in 
about an hour, and a few minutes more suffices 
to bring us to the Bezaiiibertt ETdhle, or Magis 
Cave. Here three magnificent landscapei 
of the Rhine may be ei^oyed, each one difTarenl 
from the other, and presenting the appearance 
of a beautiful diorama. The Rossel (page 109,) 
is not far from the cave ; overlooking the boii- 
terous eddies of the Bingen loch. Here the rain 
of Ehrenfels i> seen clinghig to the outer surfiuse 
of the rock. This is one of the meet magnificent 
views of the RUne. The waters present rather 
a curious appearance in tiie river below, exfail>it- 
ing three different colours. In the centre, the 
'B.\v\xiQ i« a clear green ; the Mahe, close to the 



TTiurm meaning tower of tolls, has probably 
Jlroea tbetemptAtionfortixing the legend there— \ \rftV)aiCi^«b\i«Ml^swwB.''- *sA.\3aa Maine, attiie 
tAe residence of the officer who collected toU \ t\»\vl ^>B»i^ a. ^Jsitj t^» Tawv^^gB. nJm.^*38» 
^ themrobbUhop, who. thouffh one of the moii \ jo\Ba\JcLeTlWsi*m«t^^3M^^^=*i^>«i«>^^ 



■^ ' .>:''i r 



•t 



•V . • J- 



■. ■ A 






1 

a 
1 




?I1I7/S m rm BMim 



U2 



OBSBBTBIN — BAABKOCnaOF— 41UDBSHBIBL 



LHo«to2a 



Kim. Bfagnifloeul loeBery grMte the eje from 
the eastle of Dhson to 

OBBBaTBur. — ^A small, and dirty town, sos- 
■pended in a pietoresque manner to the momitain, 
whidi presents the appearace of a compact mass 
«f rocks of porphyi7, or amydaloid, beautiftil in 
agates and amethysts of great beauty and variety. 
The Tillage church is built in a cavity of this 
ro<dc, and its internal walls are covered with 
moss. It is appro«u!hed by steps hewn in the 
rook and is lighted up by two large windows. 
An ancient castle crowns the summit of the 
nountahi. This village exoels in polishing 
•gate, and the lover of mineralogy may expect 
to earn a rich crop in these mountains of blade- 
stone and porphyry. Besides neat agates and 
amethysts, very fine crystals, of cubical xeolytii, 
harmeton, &c., are got here. Oberstein ^>per« 
-tains to the dudiy of Oldenburg, and the district 
on the opposite side to Prussia, which purchased 
it fh>m Saze-Coburg. Above this village, the 
Kahe loses its beauty and interest. 

BuKSHriELO The chief town of a district, is 

next met. It is only remarkable for its white 
ducal (dulteau. A good road, provided with 
relays of post-horses, leads from Bukenfleld, by 
Hermeskiel, over the Hochwald to Treves, a dis- 
tance of 32 English miles. A >ery nice church 
is seen at WendaL 

Ottweiler, Friedrldistal, where is mannfkctured 
white glass. Three English miles north of 
Saarbrocken, at Duttweiler, is the coal mine 
which has been burning for fourteen years. 
When the air is moist, smoke and vapours arise 
firom the bottom in great quantities, but when 
the air is dry, very little vapour issues tmm the 
drfts of the rock, which are covered with salt- 
petre and sulphur. Tou And here, petrifitctions, 
especially of wood and reeds, and m the slate, 
beautiful imiwesbions of plants, &e. 

Saaubruokei — ^A pretty Prussian town, con- 
taining a population of 8,000 inhabitants, situated 
on the Saar, connected with 8t. Johann by a 
bridge. It was formerly the residence of the 
Princes of Nassau. In its vicinity are extensive coal 
mines. Amane, possessing a splendid gothic 
church, is higher up the valley. Tbere are schneU- 
poets daily to Saarlouis and Saarburg; to Sianx 
mad to KreuzuMsb, Mad steam-boats run daily be- 
^wmea SaMrbruckm md4 AaarboMis. Sailwayi from 

io Psrhaad to ftf — hija, hy KaktAwiwnu 



I Aaomd «f tfcg BhkM t cw Mmm d. 

RvDWBBiM (Hotel t Darmatadder Hof— good.) 
--ToaTists can make the exouraton to tiie Nledar* 
wald firom here as well as fnm. Aiiiimsriisiiiiii, 
Paths also lead fSrom here to the Temple on the 
right, and on the left to Jagd ScUoai, and to 
Rossel. A picturesque old tower is seen «t Ae 
upper end of the town. The sfcupendoos ^pad- 
rangolar castle of Bromsetberg steads at tlie 
other extremity. It is a building of the 19th 
century, and consists of tiiree vaalted stexlei^ 
resting on wans of from ten to sixteen ftoet tfildu 
Its present proprietor. Count Ingelhelm, has it 
preserved fh>m decay se fkr at possible. A lofty 
square tower stands dose to it. The oaetle of 
Bromsertiof is in the centre of the town, and is 
interesting because of the tradition Interwovea 
with its history. Tradition teHs us tiiat Coont 
Brosmser of Rudesheim performed amajdngfeats 
of valour in the Holy Land. His name was 
honoured by the Franks, and dreaded laj the 
Saracens. Among his other exploits he de- 
stroyed a ferodous and destructive dragon, the 
terror of the christian army. Scarody had he 
dealt the last blow ere the Saracens seized and 
made him prisoner. D«iring \Ab long captivity, 
he consecrated hih daughter to heaven, and 
made a vow that she should take the vefl if he 
ever returned to the banks of the Rhine. At 
length Yi\ji captivity ended, and with the pilgrim's 
staff he once more stood at his own castle gates. 
His daughter, the beautiful Gisella, came oat to 
meet him, and tears of Joy rolled down the 
f^uTOwed cheeks of the aged warrior. Bat when 
he announced to her his vow, she turned pals 
and heard it with consternation, for sbe but 
waited her fathei^s return to be married to 
young Oiho to whom she was betrotiied. Her 
tears ot entreaties could not change her fhlhei'i 
purpose, and he threatened her with his eone if 
she did nut obey. She rose from his fiset and 
opened the door of the tower which overfanag 
the Rhine. The tempest raged in the namm 
valley— the river seemed a place of refVige^ and 
the beautlAil G'sella threw herself into the Hood. 
Her body was foimd next day near the town ef 
Hatton, and her cries had been heard by the 
lonely sentind on the tower. Up to the present 
time the villagers and fishermen fsncy thegrseelfcf 
I ghoitAikfi form of Gisella hovering over tiMi 




fiimtoSSl 



wteh the sl^iags «f tlM wtaklk TIm grMtneiB 
•ad Ceodal gtandmr of otlMv daji h«T« now* 
doported from the Bromaerhof; iti wtlviitiei 
Ae^ hwrlM boon truHtered to JohMmUbflrg^ 
•ad it! «rM mttMaorpimeedinto eoimnon dwel^ 
liiifjMHiflM. B«tveenRempdenandB«d«iliiim 
thore is a ferrj which eonrvys partiM omt the 
BUno. Magfcooe and Wiesbaden oun be nadiod 
b7 eaiTiages always ready for hire. DiUgenoes 
■tart daily from Badesheim to Wiesbaden. 

The shortest road from Btaagen to Mayenoe is 
by T»»Er***«'"». Visitors to theBrunnen ofMassau 
crass the ferry to Badesheim, and prooeed on 
the beaatiftil road by the tight bank of the 
Rhine. Hahs should be made at B ade s heim to 
•ee the Niederwald, if not previonsly visited ; at 
Johaanisbetg to see the ohiteaa and Tineyard; 
•t Hattenheim to dine^ and see the old Convent 
•f Sberbaoh, about two miles distant fh>m the 
town. Bnt before setting oat» an understanding 
should be oome to with the drhrer, to make these 
■tops. Visitors to Schlangenbad fiMse to the 
left, taming »way ftwn theBhineat WaUnff. 
Parties for Wiesbaden go on to Bieberieh before 
leaving the Bhine, continuing by its side to Castel 
andBiayoice. The distance to Castel ftH>mBudes- 
heimis between foorteen or fifteen mUes. Ascene 
of surpasdng loveliness is here formed, by the 
mountains subsiding into gentle slopes, and the 
ridges of the Taonns reoedmg to the river. The 
next district possessse many traita of soft plo- 
tnresqne beauty, delioate and sw e et, mingled 
with richness and brilliancy. 

OusBRBKUC— A town oontalning • population 
of 8,600. Here are the beantifol seats of the 
Counts Tngelheim and Dtgcnfleld, and in the 
church you may see the magnifloent tomb of the 
elector John Philip of Sdionbrunn. The man- 
■loa of Baron Zwierisin eontatm • rich collec- 
tion of stained glass whidi is well worth sertng. 
Near tUs place rises the Bothemberg, visited by 
numerous strangenti and offeringa most beautiftal 
prospect. To the right we see on the heights 
the cMteau of Johanntsherg, the property of 
Prince Mettemich. It Is situated in the 
■nidst ef vineyards, producing the most fomous 
wines on the Bhine. After the Secularisation of 
the Abb^y of Fulda, in 1803, this valuable do. 
main became the pr<q>erty of the Prince of 
Orange^ who did not pos s s i it more than three 
/•tfi^ wbm Vapotoea gavt It W lUxiibdl 



118 



KeDermaa. On Hie tsfmtaMrtloa of the war, 
it again changed hands^ and was p r es ent e d in 
18Id, 1^ the Bmperor of Austria, to Prinee 
Mettemieh, whchelditaaantanperhagift He 
enlarged the chlteaa, giving fhc entire nAddle 
front an additionaletorey aadalatreof IntiM 
Italian style. The interior Is phdnly fitted np» 
and exhibits mudi taste in Hs deoorationa. la 
the pelaoe chapel you see the family arms of «h* 
Mettemieh Ikmily peinted on the glass wtaidewe 
by Hettme. A beautlftal view may be ei^oyeA 
from the terrmoe. The vineyard origtaially be- 
longed to Monks of the Abbey or Convent ef 
St. John. The Johannlstry of Bf ount St. John 
alias Bieboftberg, oonslsu of atKNit rixty aereik 
rising gently and commanding a beautlfal pros- 
pect. Before you is the Bhelngan with imuunsfi* 
able hamlets, villages, vfflas^ and dolsten^ the 
eminences covered with the ndns of oaetlM^ aad 
river with shady idands- The wine ef Mowat 
St. John has s pr ea d the ftme of this end- 
nence over a great part of Europe. The pro- 
duce is reckoned at about for^ bncts^ valued 
at 80,000 florins. The vinee of this yard are 
called Beissbinge, and the choicest of the vinee 
grow near the castle. The vintage takee place 
as late as possible, the grapes befang sufhred to 
retafai the highest degree of maturity. So pre- 
cious are they that the berries whidi drop off 
are picked up with fortu erpreesly made for ttw 
nurpoee. So much as 2^200 florins has been paid 
for a c$A containhig 1,860 bottles that Is, more 
than ill as. a bottle. George IV, and the UAe 
Ung of Prussia wera the purdiasers. Th» 

wiae is alwaye iribuwd la the cellars of the ohiteaa 
and delivered out la botties. At this place tat 
Bhine finds its greatest breadth, of 2,000 feetp 
stretching Itself out to double the width whieh 
it does near Budeshelm. He breadth at Cdogae 
is 1,300 feet, and at Wesel l/MXl From here 19 
to Mayenoe small isUnds are scattered la the 
centre of the channeL To the right we see 
WUUcel, caUed V*ni C^iDa, firom the fhot of 
Charlemagne's wine-eeUar behig hero. A vetj 
remarkable diurch is seen at MIttelheim. It k 

a structure of the twetfth eentmy, and oonalsts of 
nave aad aisles with a white and grey portal, 

Near Hattenheim, asmall village with 1000 IHhah. 
itaats, Is the palaoe of BelchartriiaaeeA^«»MbM»B% 
the wine iwanidkivs tft iOb* idc^ncMk «ft 



114 XRBACH—SLLRTJI— BIEBBBICH.^ [RoUte tt 



bMOtSlled it by plaating a ehirming garden, and 
pladng in it a choice eoliertSon of paintings. 
Among ttiem is on« by WilUe^ called <*GaeaB 



ia tlie Dniiaer Bot, farm of Braia, formeriy 
belonging to the conyent. To tiie rig^t you see 
the dunning 



my name.** Hattenheim oanalae boast of hand. | Eixfeld, a rniall place "with 2A00 inhabitanti^ 
some Tillas, and here grows on the Strahenberg to > remarkable for the beauty of its situation and 
tk» right a littie higher up the river, the fiunous i gothic towers. It is the capital of the Rhefaigaa. 
iHoe called Marl obrunner, doriTing its name [ Surrounding tiie town are Tery many beautiful 
from a well that waters this pleasant spot. The i country seats, that of Graf Von Ebz is promteent, 
power and feudal greatness of the nobles of the | as containing some good paintings, among which 
Sheingau, have all but passed away, whilst their I is Susanna in the bath. Close behind EUfeld 
number has also been materially diminished. I is Kedrich in a fine vall^, wifli a Tilla and hill 
Few now reside on its banks, and to than \ called Bettersrhue, or Knigfat^srest* The<diurch 
belong the principal yineyards. ' is well worth seeing. Its woodwork galleries and 

KBBAon is seen to the right. It is a small < painted glass windows merit attention. Behind 
Ullage with fine Tillas. Its old church, in which j Kedridi, you see the old castle of Scharfenstein, 
are the tombs of the Knights of Allendorf; is j once the residence of the Bishops of IdLayence. 
worth a Tisit. From this place two pleasant ■ It is here the Grafenburg wfaie is made. A path 
ezcun^.ons can be made in the course of a few ! leads to Schlangenbad, six miles distant. Meider 
hours. One to Nieder-Ingelhelm, not far dis- ■ WaUuf is to the right, and Raucuthal, fiunous for 
taut from the left bank of the Bhfaie, from | '^ ^"^e> ^ four miles north. west. 



wiiich eminenoe we behold the entire Rheingau 
and its charming scenery. This Tillage is 
desenlng a visit, as the most memorable In 
Ocrmany, and arother should be paid to the 
abbey of Erbaohf at one time the most im- 
portant monasUo establishment on the Rhfaie. 



SoHiBRSTxnr, a small vlUage. containing 1,400 
inhabitants, is seen to the rigiit, and is remark, 
able ss be^ng the spot where the Bheingau ends ; 
as also f.v the picture gallery of M. HabeU which 
contains many paintings by ttie old masters. 
From here is a road to Schlangenbad, eight mUes 



It is beautifully situated in a wood, not far I distant. The village ofFrannstehi is four or five 
firom Ellfeld. It was founded in 1131 by \ mil«>s from Schierstein. Approaching Bieberich, 
St. Bernard de Clairvauz, but is now used | the eminences along the bank rise in terraeea^ on 
as a bouse of correction and asylum for lunatics, j which the vines are blowing, thus terminatiog In 
These establishments are weU managed, but | the distance in a semidrde, which gives to tiM 
addom shewn to strangers. Its churches, whidi • ruin the appearance of a large lake. To tlie 
can be easily explored, are de^Iy interesting 
specimens of the Romanesque style, and scat- 
tered among them are some very curious monu- 



rightis 
BiBBRBicH Hotels : 



ments; those of JBLatsenehibogen and Von Stdn I Rheioischer Hof. 

(de Lapide) are worth notice as are also the long • Hotel del' Europe, dear. 

Dormitory and Chapter House The oldest of j 

these churches is now occupied by vine presses. ' Bieb^ch. — The summer residence of the 

Up the dope of the hiU, dose to the Convent, is i Duke of Nassau, whose chtteau, built of red 

the fiunous Stefaiberg vji^yard, consisting of sandstone, looks beautlM from the river. It is 



about 100 acres. The vaults under these build- 
ings have been transformed into vine cellars, for 
the ducal vineyards and costly wines. In them 



now rather delapidated, but is yet con^dered one 
of the handsomest palaces on the Rhine. It is 
costly, and magnificently decorated in the interior 



the Duke of Nassau keeps his " cabinet of wines." I and surrounded by gardens tastefrdly laid out and 
A magnificent view of the surrounding scenery j picturesquely situated. A small miniature castle 
can be had from the Moss-house, on the Boss, a ' stands within them, it is situated on the bank of 
height close by here. To the left can be seen I an artificial lake, and In it are preserved a larg« 
^rgdhelm, once the favourite reddence of Char- | number of Roman antiquities. The%e gardens 
Uuugn9, but now a miserable village* j are open to the public. The railway from Wlea. 

T4f Ute right, between JSrbftcb and Ellfeld ' baA«a\A¥T«xMoT\^\s) Caartrik^aawMi BMmiI* 



« 



lU 



bwntSAed 
placing i 
Among t 
my name, 
tomt villa 
the right 
wint call 
firomawc 
power am 
Sheingau 
number b' 
Feir novi 
iMlong thi 

SRBACn 

Tillage wil 
are the ti 
worth a i 
excurs''0M 
huara. C 
tant flrom 
which emi 
and ita < 
<lesening 
Ocrmany, 
abbey of 
portant m 
It is ?>eai 
from ElU 
St. Beroa 
as a bouse 
These est 
geldom 8h€ 
osn be ea: 
apedmens 
teredamoi 
msnts; th« 
(de Lapide 
Dormitory 
these chwi 
Up the slo] 
the fkmou 
about 100 a 
ings have b 
the ducal v 
the Duke o 
A magnific 
can be had 
height cloB 
Irgelheim, 
iatojigne, hi 
To the 



Ibitto. 23] 



CASTEL — ^1LA.TE5CB. 



tis 



I paawngers bound for either of these places 
ought to disembark, and proceed in the 10 p.m. 
train to Wiesbaden, andtoFrankfortin 1} hour by 
the same conyeyance. From Bieberich.to the 
■Bain line^ the train is drawn by horses: 6kr. is 
charged for the porterage of tnmks and heavy 
parcels, and 3kr. for small parcels from the 
steamer to the railway station, and vice versa. 

Near Biobericb, a high wall, with a deep ditch 
winds up from the raised bank of the Bhine into 
tho le&fy forest that encloses the whole Rheingau, 
asfarasLorch. Here it is, upon the high grounds, 
^at a succession of fine views begins : beneath 
you lies the country like a luxuriant orchard, 
together with the palace of Bieberich, and the 
■Uver stream beyond the village of Mourbach, 
bordered with fine hiUs, at the extreme point of 
which lies Bredenheim. On this side, the blue 
mountains of the Rheingau, enliven the stream, 
here forming a mi^estic lake, reflecting beauti- 
fully the outUnes of Schurstein, EUfeld and 
Valluf. At some distance you behold, shadowed 
forth in darkened splendour, the Johannisberg 
and the Rochusberg, and further below appears 
the rocky chasm of Bingen, where the Rhine 
seems to t3nninate. Towards Mayence, Castel, 
and Hocheim, the vine is not less qplendid, though 
of a different description. 

On the loft we now behold the red towers of 
Mayence, and see 

Cabtbl A town and fortress on the right 

lyiink, almost a suburb of Mayence, 2,500 inhabi- 
tants, and connected with itby a bridge of boats. 
Here is the principal station of the Wiesbaden 
and Frankfort Railway. 

nayenee.— Inns : 

Hotel d'Angleterre^ reoommtnded with great 
confidence. 

Hotel do Rhin or Rheinisoher hof; a capital 
flrst-rate hoiiie< 

Mayence fiUs a large page in the volnmw 
Continental history, and though at present it 
differs much from what it. was when the resi- 
dence of the first German Elector,— when arts 
and sciences flourished, and when it was at the 
summit of its glory; yet it must ever prove in- 
teresting to the student of human institutions 
and of history, who cannot but revere it as the 
emporittoi of two thingi which mahe the world 



its debtor, aiid which have nad the 
influence in effecting himian improvement-, 
the emancipation of trade from the exactions of 
the feudal aristocracy and the invention of the 
printing press. 

It has been a frontier fortress from the earliest 
and most remote periods, and yet continues to 
be one of the strongest in Germany, as itsdta»> 
tion is the finest, rising up a part of a hiU on the 
bank where the yellowish Maine has its conflo* 
ence with the Rhine. It was called the Moguo- 
tiacum of the Romans, and owes its existeuoe to 
the fortress which Drusus Germanicus built 
there, on the spot where Marcus A grappa, 
under Augustus, had formed a fbrtifleJ camp. 
To that period belongs the aeron, or Dnisiii^ 
stone, yet seen on the rampart, and the acqne* 
duct near Zalilbaeh. Mayence ei:^oyed its meet 
glorious epoch in the second half of the thirteenth 
I and fourteenth centuries, and there it was that 
} the troubadours (muincesngers) had thdr prin- 
cipal seat. The fifteenth century became s^orl* 
ous to Mayence by the invention of the art <^ 
printing and as the birthplace and residenoe of 
John Gensfleisch, called Guttenberg, the faiven-. 
tor of moveable types. A splendid bronse status^ 
modelled by Thorwalsden, was erected to Ui, 
memory in 1337, in the open space facing tho 
theatre. Europe defrayed the expense, whidh 
amounted to 2e,000fl. The CtvU Casino now 
occupies the site of Us houses which stood at 
the end of the Schuster-gass. In the comer 
house, between Enuneran-street and the Ffluid- 
hans-street^ Gensfleisch (goose-flesh) was bonw 
and his Ihrst printing-ofBoe was the honee eaDed 
Hofkun Jungeu, or Faiberhof, The new 
houses of the Schuster-gass nowoocoqpy thestteef 
the church of St. Francis, in which he was hnried.. 
Arnold Von Walboten, also a dtisen, ori- 
ginated the plan whereby commerce was 
delivered from the exactions and oppressioBi of 
knightiy highwaymen who overran the entlro 
continent in the thirteenth century with their 
strongholds. He suggested a confederation of 
dties, which led to the formatiim of the 
ish League hi 1247. Under the energetic 
of the Emperor Rudolph of Hapsburg, tUi 
same Walboten butigated the reduction to thdr 
present picturesque condition of many ef tte 
mined casties along the banks <»{ ^4^^2i4s&iw 



u« 



CATHEDBAL— CHUBORSB OF ST. iXSPBODr ASD tft. iailATIU0 



.BootoSt 



•Pd iiBlbrtiiniltpMrlod of the hktory ofMajeiiot, 
when Custine appeared before the town and took 
it without resistanoe. In 1793 the Preach eva- 
ouated it after a determined defence, haying 
obtained an honourable capitulation, and ap- 
peared before itagahi in 1794, with a powerful 
besieging army, fi'om which it was delir^red in 
1796 by the victory of General Claufait, after 
which an Austrian garrison occupied it until 
1797, when the cession of the left bank of the 
Bhine to the French caused to Mayence a total 
change of all its relations. By the peace of 
Paris the city was again incorporated with 
Germany, and in 1816 ceded to the Grand Duke 
of Hesse Darmstadt, to whom it still belongs, and 
is one of the most important towns in his 
dominions. It is the chief fortress of the Ger- 
man Confederation, and is governed, alternately, 
•very fire years, by a governor chosen from 
drher nation, and garrisoned by the Austrians 
and Prussians in common. It is now the capital 
•f Rhc^nish ne98% and has a population of 36,000 
faihabiiauts, and 8,000 bi garrison. 

The Kvr^sUich* Schloss, or ancient palace of 
fhe Electors of Mayence, now a museum; the 
Gros8h3rscgliche Schloss, orighially the Teu- 
tonic house, which Napoleon lodged in, and the 
Arsenal, are situated upon the quay where the 
steamer stops. 

The chief objects of attraction in Mayence 
are the Cathedral, erected partly in the tenth 
century, by Arcbishop Willeges, but not com- 
pleted until the eleventh century. It is a vast red 
building, choked upon the north and south- 
west by mean houses. It is built in the massive 
round style of architecture. Conflagrationis 
bombardments by the Prussians, and desecra- 
tion by the French, who turned it into a maga- 
line and barracks, in 1813, have severely injured 
the edifice, the original of which ia only pre- 
served at the east end, behind the altar. At 
tills end the octagonal tower has been Bur> 
mounted with a cupola of cast iron 70 feet high. 
It has a double choir, and high altars at the east 
and west, with two transepts. The most beau- 
tiflil of the two choirs is that of All Saints, 
containing a very fine window, built in 1317. The 
douUe chapel of St. Gothard is an interesting 
specimen of the Gothic style, buUt in 1136, and | 
tif the Mbame of the owners, is now let aa a I 
Matter warebouae. In dM interSw «f the\ 



esthedral are several momimenta wortit seefaii^ 
among the most worthy are those ci Archbishop 
Peter Von Asfeldt crowning Henry VII., Looii 
the Bavarian and John king of Bohemia, Frino« 
Albert of Saxony, Canon Bernard Von Breidea- 
bach. Archbishop Borthold Von Henneberg^ 
Fastrada, wife of Charlemagne, dose to th* 
magnificent doorway leading into the oloiater% 
Minstrel of Minneanger (praise the ladies), who 
was carried to his grave by the ladies of Biay- 
ence, so great a fiivourite was he of theirs ; St. 
Boniface, first archbishop of Mayence and 
Apostle of Germany; he was an Englishman^' 
bom at ( reditoDyin Devonshire, and professw. 
of poetry, history, rhetoric, and the Holy Scrip- 
tures in the Benedictine Abbey of Notsall, near 
W inchester He left Englsnd with eleven other 
monks to preach the gospel in Germany, aaA 
was created bishop by Gregory 11 , and arch- 
bishop and primate of Germany by Gregory III^ 
and Archbishop of Menta, as the German metro- 
politan see, by Pope Zachary. 

The Pulpit will attract attention; an andrat 
font of lead behind the eastern altar, and the 
brasen doors opening into the Market-street. 
The doors are of the tenth century. Bishop 
Adelbert I., in 1135, had engraven on the upper 
valves an edict gfranting important privileges to 
the dty in consideration of his gratitude to the 
cituens who delivered him from the hands of the- 
emperor, whose person they seized and detained 
until the bishop was restored to them. Two 
very andent chalices are preserved in the sanc- 
tuary. The canons of this cathedral returned 
rather a remarkable answer to the pope on tho 
occasion of his reproving them for their luxurU 
ous and worldly manner of living. It was, 
** We have more wine than is needed fbr the 
mass, but not sufficient to turn our mills with.** 

The Chtsrohetqf S*. Stephen and St. Ignatiua^. 
the former of which is pleasantly situated on 
the most devated q>ot of the town, and contains 
some altarpieoes interesting to the lovers of art. 
The church of St. Peter, contains a splendid 
chime of bells, and the parish diurdi <rf 8t. 
Emmeran, with its beautiftil altarpiec^ repre* 
senting the Ascension of the Virgin. 

The Mtuewn has a collection of paintings no 
ways distinguished. It however oontidns a rnef 
large collection of Roman antiquities^ riinilsl 
Vug qim ^axsxa asA ^«i«l^« xaUttSk M lefisB' 



tl$ CATHEDRAL— OHUBCHKS OF ST. MVFIUU MJXD »T. Z01IATIU9 .Boaf 




oiukted it, 
obtained . 
pearedbfl^ 
beaiegingi 
1796 by ti 
which mn 
1797» wfaerf 
Bhinetoti 
diange ofl 
Paris the 
Gennany, 
of Hesse 1> 
is one of 
dominiocs. 
manConfei 
every fire ; 
rithernatlQ 
andPrussiil 
ofRhe^nisU 
faih.ibiiautsj 
Tbe JCvrj 
fhe Electot 
Orosshsrsc^ 
tonic house, 
Arsenal, ar< 
steamer sto 
The chie 
are the Cat 
century, by 
pleted unto 
building, d 
west by mea 
round style 
bombardme 
tion by the / 
line and bai 
the ecUfloe, 
senred at ti 
tills end tfa 
mounted wil 
It has a doui 
and west, wi 
tiftd of the 
containing a 
douUe chapi 
specimen of 
J to the shan 

J6»tAsr mar 




^ -^ Urnieis with imeriptloaB, snd a modd of fhe ttietnlMptM eaob tfSbutt, TIm SfatlaiE b on 
double stone bridge wbicb Napoleon pnqiKMMd (the right bank of fhe Rhine at Castel Ofpodtt' 
to throw over the Rhine here. ' Hajenoe, ttom which plaoe omnlbtues ply to 



- The Town LQrtary contains more than 80,000 
vols., among whieh are many rare and excellent 
works. In it are the Fsalterhun of 1469^ the 
Bible of 1462, the eatholioum of 1460, and 
seireral thousand more books belonging to the 
eentniy in which printing was invented. It is 
open each day, (Sundays and festivals excepted), 
firom eight o'clock until ten. The most in- 
teresting works in the picture gallery are, An 
Apollonia,byDamenich{no; a kneeling Carme- 
lite, and an Ascension of the Virgin, by 
Augustine Caracei; a St. Francis, by Quer- 
cino; a Christ hi the Temple, byJordaens; 
Adam and Eve, by Albert Druerer; the house, 
wife of Rubens, by Snyders, &c- But the pearl 
of the collection is a Madonna, suckling the 
faifant, by Lorenzzo Sdarpelloni, a picture so 
noble and simple as to be entitied to rank 
highest in the lot. 

The PvbUd CfardefU inside the fortifications 
are worth a visit. Thy command a splendid 
view of the Junction of the Maine and Rhine of 
the town, and the Rhelngau, and of the remote 
range of Taunus. On Fridays, between four 
and eight p.m., the bands of the Austrian and 
Prussian reghncnts play here. The citadel will 
also repay a visit. With it stands the Tower of 
Brusus from which an excellent view may be 
obtained. Some assert it is the Tomb of Drusus, 
son-in-law of Augustus the founder of Mayence. 
The English Chttrchy service is performed each 
Sunday In the Lyoed formerly Jesuits College. 

The RaUvfoy from Castel to Frankfort in one 
hour; to Wiesbaden in quarter of an hour. 
Trains run six times daOy. 

The Ehoagen daily to Darmstadt, Coblens, 
Worms, and Staabuck. 

The SUmn BoaU from Mayence to Coblens 
and Cologne, several times a day; to Mannhetan, 
twloe daOy in summer ; and daily to Strasburg. 
From here excursions can be made to Frank- 
furt and Wteshaden bv raflway. 

BoHTB 2d. 
If aycnee to rrankroH. 

OtSfCfanot bj railway ta one hour. 

This Une wss opmed hi ISA*), and eonilatt 
m ft rfBfla rafl ezeept at tbofe poliitt wbsrv \ 



Ctetd, fltfe 2kr. The Une to Wiesbaden, wfaldi 
is a branch one, Is carried through the fortlfleft- 
tions of Castel, and passes Montebello to MaabaoH 
station, from whence horses draw the tndn on « 
hnmch line to Bieberich on the Rhine. Th« 
railway on quitting the termhras at Castel pasaer 
along the right bank of the Maine. The taX 
station met with, four miles distant is 

HocHBoc a small village on the top of v 
hill. From the eminence an excellent vteir 
of the Maine and Mayence is had. The wine 
grown here is ranked among the best Rhenbh 
wines. Here tiiere are a great many vineyards^ 
but the best wines are made from the vines 
growing on the height, on a q^t of about eight 
acres. This bin is completely exposed to tiM 
sun, and pivtected from the north winds by 
the houses of the town, The raQwiqr pasMf 
through th«n on a narrow slip of ground. 

FoBSBBiM Station is next arrived at. 

HATncRSBBDC Station.— -From here toorlslr 
start fbr the excursion to the Taunus mountataM. 
Leaving this last station the railway crosses th« 
Nidda, by a bridge^ on which is Hochst station. . 
It is remarkable for its old church, and th« 
deserted old palace, once the elector's of Mi^reDee. 
From here there is a brandi railway of thre* 
miles to Sodon at the foot of Mount Tannii% 
whence a diligence takes us on to Konigstein* 
The Feldberg and castie of Falkenetein are via* 
ible ft«m this, and on the left of the road aa 
old watdi tower marks the boundary of the tevtl* 

tory of Frankfort. 
Fkah KFORT-oN-TH^-BfAnm — Hotels : 

The Hotel de PEmperenr Remain, a fltftowts 

fSunUy hotel ; landlord8,Mes8r8 Lohr& Altea. , 
Hotd de Russia, one of the best In Bnrop% 

eonducted by Mr. Rei<l, well known tft 

English travellers for his obliging dfHilT 

and attention. 
Landsberg Hotel, an exoeUent and eomfbrtahto 

hotel. 
Hotel d'Angleterre, an excellent flunOj hotels 

landlord, Mr. J. O. Bertholdt. 
Hotd Weldensbuseh, well known, good, uA 

reasonable; landlord, Mr. MmU 
Oaft M!aM&, 'l^VM VMribtA Niua ^«a(<^^ 



US 



OiLTHBDBAXr— 8T. XJK«ABD*8 CBUBQR— RABDAL MU8BU1I. 



Freetown, with 70,000 tahahWamti^ end eeeft 
of the Gennea Diet U oooopies, faudndbig 
Berhnwiheneen, with which it is connected \fj e 
wUto» bridge^ on the left benk of the Mahie 626 
meres, and is one of the most beeatiftal cities in 
Germeny. In the New Town, are a great 
nvmber of houses and fine pdaoes, eq^edally 
those in the main street in the New MainM 
and Tannns Stranss. 

The Old Town is remarkable for its Tenerable 
watdi-towers which as it were bomid the former 
ejrtent of its precincts. The houses are rery old 
and form a deep contrast to the ones in the 
new town. 

The Cathedral is remarkable for its antiquity 
also as being the place where for many years the 
Emperors were crowned. At a rery early 
period an Abbey founded by Louis the German 
and a pious Franconian was connected with the 
church. The nave which is the most antique 
pert dates firom the the thirteenth century, and 
the dioir from the fourteenth century, when 
it receired its present shape. It is built in 
the form of a cross, and has one unfinished 
tower ^diich is obtuse at the top, and at which 
men were working from 1416 to 1509, though it 
is still unfinished. It is considered the last speci- 
men work of the ancient German architecture. 
Its interior is plain and unadorned, being white- 
washed, and having a gallery arotmd tbe aisles 
and one of the transepts. It contains one 
or two monuments, the most remarkable of 
which is that on the right of the choir, dedicated 
to the memory of the unfortunate Emperob 
Guenther of Schwarzenburg, killed by Charles 
v., and another in the chiq>el on the left side of 
the choir, a clumsily ornamented one, that of 
Bttdolph of Sachf enliansen. 

The most remarkable public building is the 
Town House, called Romer. It is a building of 
the 16th century, less interesting for its architec- 
tural appearance, than for its historical note. 
Here is the election room, at present the Hall of 
the Senate, where the electors or their deputies 
used to assemble ; the Kaisersaal, or Imperial Hall, 
with the portraits of aU the Emperors, from 
Conrad I. to Francis II., hanging on its walls. 
J^tit iB also preserved tbe relic known as the 

Golden Bull. There are several other paintings \ \e<^oTi \>^Qin% Xa V2Ekft '¥\ffi(s&d&. %(Se>!wSl. 
in tbo hnll, which has been re-decorated In the \ \oga*ina5^» o\>\»aQ«A.«x>3a»^««. 
^deats^Ie. On «a rad waU to the J adgnMnt of \ T\ieS«vMwbc»«U«uuwwoJ^otaiita.W««^ 



SoloaioB, by Steinbe. 

the public on Wednesdays and Monday, 

10 a.m. to I p.m. 

In the Uarket Place, called the Bomeriieq^ 
oppodte the In^terial building, an entire os 
was roasted on each event of an imperial corona- 
tion, from which the Arch Stewarda cat a sOes 
for the Emperor. Wine flowed firom a foimtak 
with which the Arch-Cupbearer filled a glass; 
and com was distributed trom a sQver 
by the Arch-Marshal, to the populace who 
privileged to cut a scrap of the scarlet <dot]i oe 
which the Emperor walked, and in many 
to the great danger of having his heels cnt^ 
he was slow in hte movements. 

The Saathof, long since private propcrtg^ 
was originally a royal palace. Nothing now 
remains of this building but a chapdl sad 
burying vault. 

St. Leonardos Church, built in 1328, occiqta 
the spot where once stood Charlemagne's palaei^ 
wherdn he usually assembled the Bisbon 
Princes, and nobles of the Empire. On thi 
bank of the Maine is Sachsenhausen, a SaaBoe 
colony, inhabited by a different race f^mthe 
Franks, on the right bank. On the side of tbs 
Badisenhausen stands the ancient palaoe of 
the Knights of the Teutonic orders, and olesi 
by are the ronains of tbe old Palace of tiM 
Counts of Isenberg. Frankfort has very maav 
institutions, promotive of arts and scienoea, which 
reflect much credit on it. 

The Staedal Museum of Pictures, a pretty 
building in the New Mainzer Strasse, called 
its founder, is an artLstical institution for 
painters and architects, designers and engraven. 
Its founder, the banker, Staedal, left his nnmeN 
ous pictures and collections of prints, his monisa 
and a sum of l,200,000f. (£83,000,) for the Itan- 
dation of the institute, the object of idiicfa isnot 
solely the cultivation of the arts, but ^ij o the 
aiding young artists by proportionable ) 
The public are admitted to this collection 
day, from 10 to 1 ; and on Saturday, »iir.«t^irtr! 
is accorded to strangers teoxa 11 to 1. 

The splendid artistical collection of Dr. Gnnhbei 
purchased for this institution, added comdderaMy 
to Vta Ns^xx^. The ^rindpal pictures in the eel* 

a.' 



BonteSfl] 



PUBLIC UBSABT— TKBATBE. 



W 



hMft toy good odDeetioa, and TeryweU arranged. 
it oontaina.iome rare specimens brought froai 
S87Pt» Nubia, Abyssinia, and the shoras of the 
Bed Sea, t^ BeeppeU, the celebrated traveller. 
At the t(q^ of the Wopse is a small Ethnological 
ooDeotion. 

The PtOUo Library is a pretty building, and 
oontains a good collection of rolnmes. It is 
open to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 
from 11 to 12. In the library are portraits of 
Luther, and of his ^rife Catherine; a bird, 
two pidr of Luther's shoes, two missals, and a 
good copy of the 1st edition of the Bible, printed 
by Faust, at Ments. It is open on Tuesdays and 
Thursdays, from 11 to 12; and on Wednesdays 
and Fridays, from 2 to 3. To the rear of the 
library we see St. George's H<»pital, a light and 
elegant building. 

Gdethe and Luther were bom here, the 
former hi the house marked F, No. 74 in the 
Hirschgraben. On the front is his father's coat 
of arms, bearing the poetical devices of three 
lyres. In the Alte, facing the Theatre, stands 
a statue to his memory, executed by Schwan- 
thalar, of Munich. The figure and pedestal 
are of bronse. A latin inscription and his 
bust mark the house in which Luther resided, 
in the Don Flats. The inscription is as follows : 
** In sQentio et spe erit fortitude vestra." ** Silence 
and hope shall be your strength." Frankfort is 
also distinguished as being the birth place of the 
Bothschild family. In the Judengasse, or Jew's 
Street, is the house in whidi they were bom. 

The Jews are new treated more liberally and 
Justly than they were formerly. 

The New ExchangCy or Bourte, lately erected, 
wHl attract attention. It is built in the Byzantine 
stjie, and in the front is ornamented with statues 
ot Hope and Prudence, the divisions of the 
Berth, Commerce, &c. Banking, and Jobbing 
in the funds, are the two principal businesses of 
Frankfort. 

The Frofd^ort Fairt are held at Easter, and 
three weeks previous to Bfichaelmas; during 
their continuance the inns ara very crowded. 

The residence of the Austrian Ambassador, 
fbnneriy the Palace of the Prince of Thum and 
Tazi% now serves as a plaoe of meeting for the 
Gennaoiol>iet 

'l^^'maettr'^SIfat$ie€tfaeAriadn€.^Th\gi cele- 
Mmt&dtUtat the haaat of SVaakfort, to placed 



bk a eabbiet; the U^ts of wUoh are regnlatad 
by traa^arent bUndk in the gardens of M. Bcih- 
mann, and Is shewn to vlsiton from 10 to 1 daBj. 

The Monument erected to the memory of flw 
HessiaB soldiars, killed hi 1792, stands ontside tlio 
Friedburg Gate. 

M inisten from all the principal conrli is 
Europe, and from the United States, reside here. 
and travellen should not neglect, when going t* 
Italy or Austria,to get their passports proporly vktB. 

The Passport Offices are only open a short ttoM 
in the day ; no time should be lost in sendBng th« 
passport. The English passport office is opea 
from 9} to 12 o'clock ; the United States, II to 1 ; 
Austrian and Prussian, 10 to 12 and S to 6, p.m. ; 
and the Bavarian, 9 to II. 

A signature of the rcpresoktative of the ooontry 
to which the traveller belongs, must be prnoared 
to his passport before it will be viti. To this 
rule there is no exception. Church of England 
service is celebrated each Sunday, at the F^rendi 
Chapel, in the Alle , or in the Luthem Churdi, 
at 11}, by the Chaplain to the Embas^. 

The TTteaire is open five days iu the wedc 
The performance begins at 6 a.m., and ends 
generally at 9 p.m. At Bockenheim, on tbt 
North- West, there is a Summer Theatre. 

The third continental Peace Congress was bdd 
at Frankfort on the 22nd August, 1860, and tha 
two following days. Thejipeclal train from Loo* 
don, via Calais and Cologne and thence xtp tha 
Bhhie, contained about 600 delegates and visttenu 
The place of meeting was St. Paul's drareh. 
This magnificent building, capable of hoUinf 
more than 2,000 persons, was thronged eaob day. 
The proceedtaigs were simihir in ehareler to 
those at Bmssela and Paris in 1848 and 1848; 
and the effect of this Congress on the pnbtto 
mind b understood to have been very sa t iafa ct oty 
to its promoten. 

The Pott OJks, No. 62, to the Zlel, not Ut 
from the Hotel de Busrie, on the same ride. 

The Catino takes in English and Froioh 
Journals. Strangen are admitted on being la 
trodnoed by a member. 

British consul, Mr. Koch, near the Hotel 
d'Angleterre. 



ICnton. 



BuiWA' wA'««*V|?>^^^'«-^^'^ 



.Vs^- 



136 flrO«LUBI»--8AABLOUIS— MEBEia ^OUli V 



Tba PMNte Ctanlmr ara at Um ww ter n ex- ) memorUi of Mi ihteue e now remalnlqg^ tn • 
tnmUy of Fnyokfert. A bead pbqn in tiMm | fair mntDated fl ragmg ms of pflUm wtthln mmd 
MdiffUmoon. tiie two churdieii near which U stood, aaia 

The Old ondNtwCemettrkittndtaaMLahoiai' column <rf granite inserted in a comer of aa «il 
1( EngUih taOm from the Frledbnrg Gata^ and gatew^j. In this ctaurdi slso, the one 
worth visiting. They command a good Tfew of to Majence, is the monnmeut of one oT 
Fraalifdrt and the Taanns, and oontaia a large magnsTs four queens. The other dmrdi, en ttfe 
aomber ui interesting mooameali,aneBg whieh ' ^Ub of Bfaigen, b an Interest&ig momniMBC tf 
are those of the Bethman fkatilly, and of the the Bomaneeque style. Ingelhelm wtaie b di 
Cwmteis of Beichenbach, wife to the hte Elector I funoos. 
ef HesM. Here is also a monument to the Prince '. RoUTB 25 

rian Depotiefl^ murdered in the rerolutlon of „ ,^.,-«^. ^^ 



1848brooinr<IIjuMMlii«. , di^mki. 86* BnglUi mile.: 

Iiitl«».c«niH«rle.«.biipl.d8Miiii«liig,tli.: ^^ ^„,„,^ 
nMar.ll*,M.dFeuerb«*th.I«-,» ; xi, „^ ^^ 8«Ar5dMn (p.^ U« » 

«e««.«tb..lUto.t.W«.b«,drtr. TreTe^de«s«d,th.™et Titer Ji 
alio to Mayenee. 

Route 24. 
Blnsen to Mayenee* 

>T nfOKLHBUf. 

Distance 16 EngBsh miles. From Blngen to 
Mayenee there are two roads, one, the most inter- 
esting, along the left bank, and another on the 



Saariadis is a firontier fortreas of Prasriaa if 
great strength. The Saar half endrdea the 
town, sometimes Isying it under water, aai b 
Scanned by a long stone bridge. Tho riiitMlfS 
tions were constructed by Vaubaa, in the rcigaif 
Louis XIV. It has a population of 7,000, eUilf 
descended from English prisoners conflnnd that 



left bank, remote from the side of the river, by the above-named king. Diiring the int 
flchnellposts daily traverse both roads. The I Vrench revolution it was called Sarallbre. Itis 
road on the left, on leaving Blngen, sUrts the ' remarkable as the birth-place of Marshal N^. 
Ibot of the Eochcnsberg, and commences a loag. The Peace of Ryswick guaranteed this place to 
but gradual ascent to an eminence, near the top > France, but the treaty of 1814 secured It ts 
of vdiich stands a small obelisk erected by the ' Pruada, to which sovereignty it at preomt 
Frendu and bearing this inscription, ** Route de I belongs. 

Charlemagne,termin6 en Tan premier dnrdgnede { MBazio. — At Mettlach, between here anl 
K^^wleon." The route of Charlemagne, finished Saarburg, is a pottery, formerly a BenedleUM 
In the Ist year of the reign of N^raleon. From abbey, founded and endowed in the 7th century, 
here, and fl*om the a<Uoh>tng heights, a magnifi. | (From a cUff all but inaccessible, the ruina of the 
cent view can be er^oyed, embracing the Rhine, ' castle of Montelair command a view of therallqr ) 
the Rhefaigau, and the distant heights of i After crossing the Saar by ferry, the road leads 
the Taunus. In a position lovely and pic- j us up an ascent, and at three miles distance fte« 
turesque, we see Charlemagne's fkvourite j Saarbruck, we see Castel, origbully a Sanaa 
residence, castle, put in repair by the King of Pnxaria la 

IxoKLHBix^-situated about 1^ miles fh>m the ! 1835, and transformed into a chapel, to rwMbe 
liank of the Rhine, is now reduced to a •! the remains of John, King of Bohonla. eon sf 
«rretched and miserable village. It was once, we ' A® emperor Henry VU; killed in 134fl^ at the 
are told by historians, the spot where Charle- ' battle of Crecy. 

magne loved to live and dwell, and where he I Saasburo, a small village deUghtAilIy altaated 
bollt himself a magnificent palace and decorated ' at tho mouth of the valley of the Saar. On the 
it with one hundred pillars of marble and ] Lewk,which here falls into the Saar, ia a beanUfld 



porphyry, and with red mosaics sent to him by 
Pope Adrian. Mud cabins, dung-hills, and a 
Jewi^ buriaLground now occupy the site where 



waterfall, near some picturesque ruins. The 
broken fhtgments of a summw palaoe of Ikl 
lower empire is met with a little higlMr iq^ MV 



9ae^Hood U>b mngaUhent edifioe. The oi^ wY&di>aliV«^lIoN«MKk« 



Boine 26] 



TREVES— OATHKDRAT . 



m 



Tmms,—(¥r, TWver, Ger. TVi^r.)— Iiiii»: I 
Trieriseher Uot—rerj good. 
Das Rodie— good. 
Laxemburger Hof. 

This ancient town, so memorable in history, 
lies in a charming valley, surronnded by low vine- 
dad hills, which is open ftom south-east to nortii- 
west, on the right bank of the Moselle, and con- 
tahis a popcdation of 16,000. A beautiftd bndn 
encircles the town, from the mouth of the Saar 
to that of the RyaU. Above and below it, small 
villages a^^iear. like suburbs. Its interior is very 
agreeable, the streets being for the most part 
regular and large, and embellished with many 
line houses ; the slated roo& however render the 
j^lace rather sombre and gloomy. The in- 
tcrtpfioB "Ante-Romam Treviris stetit annis 
MCCC," on the walb of the former town hall, 
would lead us to believe that Treves was built 
before Rome. At all events, it is the oldest city 
in Germany, and was when the Romans, under 
JuHos Caesar, (B. C. 68,) first Invaded it, aflourish- 
eapital, having s polished population, and the 
seat of many fiunous buil(&ig8. Augustus es- 
tablished a Roman colony here, called Augugta 
Trevirorwn, immediately after the partition of 
Gaul, and settled there the supreme courts of 
administration, and Treves became the metro- 
polis of the first Belgium — comprisfaig not only 
Belgium so-called, but the entire of Spain and 
Britahi : Roman laws were issued and imperial 
crowns struck there, and doth, arms and 
militaxy stores were supplied to the Roman 
legions. It was also the residence of several 
Roman onperors, and in the great distribution 
of the empire, under Constantine the Great, the 
prsBtorlan prefect of Gaul, was appointed to have | 
bis reridenoe at Treves, whidi first removed to { 
Aries, when the German nations began to invade 
the Roman possessions. Here also lived in hlg^ 
offices, Ausonius, the poet of the MoseUa, the 
preceptor and ftiend of the emperor Eratianns. 
Indeed it may be said that when science was 
lost and arts had nearly perished, and when the 
polished languages were exchanged for the un- 
intelligible Jargon of northern barbarism, Treves 
was the seat of the temple, within the sanctuary 
of whIdi the time honoured roll of Htaratnre 
fomd a reftige and a home from the stormy 
blasts of barbarism, antn the tpMt i^f her genius 
brooding % second time o'er the tiaiMikm cteoi, 



difed npfhe fool inters, and prepared a way for 
science to re-vidt the dwelUngs of men. And 
this old and venerable dty, when the Vandal, the 
Hun, and Goth, poured their barbaric legions 
Into her devoted bosom, sweeping away, like the 
stormy sorocco, the purest monuments of her 
dvic glory, the brightest trophies of her refine- 
ment in the arts and sdences, the sun of her 
imperial glory paled, and, though sorrowfiil in 
the dark glare of carnage and sanguinary 
desolation, was not then subdued, for scarcely had 
the storm subsided and the hurricane e«ased to 
blow, when like a giant leviathan, she rose from 
her ruins, and from the ashes in which she waa 
seated, and under the sway of the crosier and 
mitre^ clothed herself ^ain hi all her andent 
g1ory« rebuilt her temples, erected new altats to 
literature, consecrated anew the vestibules of her 
early imperialism, and endowed her venarated 
Institutions with even more than their andent 
splendour. In 1702-4, the English, under Biarl- 
borough, took Treves. Its churdies and convents 
were stripped of all their wealth and ornaments, 
and turned into stables by the French during the 
revolution. Previous to this, Treves possessed 
more ecdesiastical buOdings than any digr In 
Europe of a sindlar size. 

Treves, after having been the seat of impe* 
rlalism, spiritual and civil courts of the electorate^ 
of a chapter, an episcopal college and an univer- 
dly, is now the seat of a Prussian Regen^. As a 
town it is decayed and faded, and only interesting 
because of its historical glories and for the Roman 
remains still existing in it. These remains con- 
stitute the most extensive relics of the once 
masters of the world, saved from remote anU- 
quily. As memorials of thdr architecture, 
history, &c., vastness and not beauty is the ^s« 
tinctive characteristic of thdr appearance, and 
in this they diifer fr>om remains found in the 
south of France and elsewhere. Christianity and 
Vandalism have, the latter by its barbarism, and 
the former by its prcjjudice, done much to anni- 
hilate and disfigure these memorials of Roman 
domhiion. 

The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. HOen Is 
situated on the highest eminence in the town. 
The firont and east dde of it, consisting of Roman 
masonry, are said to have belonged to the palace 
of the Impress Helena^ or to th.« VL^)scSMsc^\'«rv^ 



1» 



UEBFBAUBN KXBOBB— PORTA KABTIS. 



fltovlill 



whoM mother, we are told, depoeited in tbe 
ehttrch tiie Seemieu Coat of onr SAviour, which, 
after being hidden for 134 years, was, hi 1844, 
for eight weelu exhibited to the reneration of 
one minion, one hundred thousand pilgrims I 
Huge columns of granite adorned in the elerenth 
century that port where now the great choir 
Stands; renudnsof them are still lyfaig before 
the main entrance In addition to the traces of 
Soman BysantiiM architecture, we alsodisooyer 
traces of the middle ages hi the Ulterior of the 
well-preserved dolster which a^Johis the church. 
In the interior of the diurch are several monu- 
ments of the electors of Treves, among which is 
that of the soldier.prelate Richard Von Oreifen- 
Uaw. The pulpit curving is pretty good, and 
the seats of the choir are inlaid with ivory and 
wood carving, and beneath the church are vaults 
in which repose the bones of archbishops and 
electors^ Large funds accrue to this church 
flrom the exhibition of tbe Holy Coat, and a 
portion of them are devoted to the repahr of tiie 
cathedral. 

Caose to the cathedral it the Lieb^um 
KirchCt or Church of Our Lady. It oceu. 
pied firom 1227 to 1243 hi building, and is 
in the most elegant Pofaited style; it is one of 
the earliest specimens of pure Gothic arddteo- 
ture. The disposition of the pUm is grand, and 
the proportions are h^pily diosen. The eastern 
choir terminates in the form of a cross, the 
pieces of which form two lateral passages north- 
ward. The semidrcular portal is richly orna- 
mented with sculpture, and twdve columns, 
eadi bearing the figure of an apostle, support 
the interior. These may all be seen at once firom 
a marked spot near the door. They shew here 
the well-preserved corpse of St. Hildulph, bishop 
Treves. The monument of Archbishop Von 
l^k, and the doorway in the north transept, 
are worth inspection. 

The PorfaJforfiff, commonly called the Black 
Gate, or Porta NigrOt is situated at the northern 
extremity of the town, near the Simeonsthor, 
and is one of the most interesting objects of 
antiquity in the dty. Its origin or date cannot 
be ascertained, but it is surmised to have been 
built in the reign of Constantino the Great. 
Tuscan columns deeurate the front, and its 
basement story is very massive, and probably 
fttoat as the entrauee on the north of tbe dty« 



wan. Some writers piMt flM date of Hi «» 
tion before the arrival of Hbm Bodimh^ mk\ 
designate it the coundl-house of th« Beiga. li 
s^le of ardiiteeture would, however, oontadM 
this^ and lead us to believe it a hundintg bdoi^ I 
ing to the lower empire. In 1305 Hm biddtar ' 
was converted into a church bj i 
Pope, and dedicated to St. Simeon, an aBdMnta^ 
who in the deventh ouitary, on fala retomftMS I 
the Holy Land, todc up hit poaitlQi& on the tap 
of the e^Ufioe, acquired a reputation ot grait 
sanetily, and at his death was added as asataitti 
the Roman calendar. Napoleon stripped Oi 
lead from the roof on his arrival at Treves aai 
had it cast into bnOets. The Fraaaian gove» 
ment, in 181^ had it dearedof rubhiah, to epM 
the foldhig door for the first time In 1811; teOi 
entryofthekingof Prussia and the Crown Priaea 
Thus all late defacements have been reaioved,aai 
only the lateral building of the deventh i 
containing the choir and altar, ia left 
it is a fine specimen of Roman architectais. 
This porta is constructed of gray reddidi Modi 
of sandstone, grown black by the Influence of 
tim^ and so dosely connected, without tti 
application of mortar or cement, that the Jdnli 
eonld scarcely be discerned, but they have bcsa 
chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order 
to extract the metal clamps that united thsn. 
In the interior are some broken firagments of 
antiqcdty, the most remarkable of which are a bai 
relief of gladiators, a mermaid v^th two tsiki 
several earthen pipes, and some Roman mUestixMi 
The Palaee of the Electon and Bishops, Tht 
bold and gigantic construction of this buildtag 
is still visible in itB ruins. The edifice la nows 
barrack. The principal stahrcase is a rare sps> 
cimen of rich and elaborate carving. It standi 
upon the site of an enormous Roman edifice^ s 
firagment of which only remains, the other parti 
being removed in 1614 to make way for thi 
Episcopal Palace erected on its ruins The 
fragment remaining is a semidroular tomr 
rishig on high, and ia called Heidenthwrm, or 
Heathen's Tower. The walls are 90 feet Jxigli 
and 10 feet thidc, and gives some idea as to ths 
colossal dimensions of the building when enfre. 
The construction is entirely of bricks and tilsi^ 
and b a masterpiece of ardiltecture, there nsl 
being a eradc or break in tliewallsnowalkva 
o€ aces. It ia nowoaed wa diorch ftr 




'^.-■■"t: .'-St '22DI '-iiai' 



Sonteiq 



ffFTT^»— P*' viEMnTr. 



wfakh paipoM U WM deired out by orders of 
Am king of FlniHia. From th« portals of this 
trnksB ndn were issued those decrees which 
jtf« Iftws to Bom^ Constantinople^ and to 
Blitidn at the one epoch. It was also the 
fsTOiirlte residence of Constantino. 

▲a open space in front of this building serves 
as a drill-ground for the troops, and at its further 
•xtremtty are the ruins of the baths or Themue, 
in the Tidnilgr of the Holy Cross. Though much 
muttlated, these ruins have been laid bare by 
tlMdireetions of the Prussian gorernment. They 
fasembie, in their vaulted rooms, resenroiri^ 
pipes and channels for hot and cold 
r, tlie Thermn of Cara Calla and Dometiaa 
«t Borne. 

To the east of the baths is the Roman Amphi- 
Hieatre, M>pearing as if scooped out of the 
Marsberg^ a hUl covered with vineyards. It was 
once the arena of the *'inaj;m(^lctMni|pectaculiMn — 
famo§a mppUcia,'* with which Constantine enter- 
tained his subjects. They were called Ludi 
VnneUA, or Prankish sports, and consisted in 
ttcposing many thousands of unarmed Prankish 
prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. 
The arena is 234 feet long and 166 feet broad. 
The drcns mentioned by Augustinns in his con- 
feaions, lay in a southern direction from the 
amphitheatre. 

The Bridge over the MouUe is 690 feet long 
and 24 feet broad, and is probably one <rf the 
most andent monuments in Treves. It liad 8 
andied cqiteningi^ oonstmeted entirely of pieoes 
of lava. The pillars <tf the bridge are, on an 
■;verage^ 66 feet long and 21 feet broad, and date 
from the reign of Augustus. It originally stood 
near the centre of the town, and resisted during 
A cyde of centuries, the eflforts of barbarism, 
nntU the French blew it up in the wars of Louis 
XIV^ and hence the only parts now remaining 
Are the piers of large stones from the lava quar- 
fles, at Mendiff, near the lake of Laaeh. 

Without the town there were four Abbeys of 
Ben«ilicthies,renownedfortiieir great wealth, not 
A fragment of iHiidi now remains, and modem 
jtr u c tur e s liave even replaced the old edifices. 
They were Ibose of 8t. Ifiatthew, now a school; 
BL M a ximfn, now a barrack ; St. Biartin on the 
Moselle^ nowa ehfaia fketory; and St. Mary of 
tlM Four Martgn^ below tlie town on the site 
«M0 ooonpled 1^ the Bonan ptwCBctf s palaee^ 



vrfaere the soldiers of the Tiiebaa legloA sol* 
fered martyrdom. 

The Uhteersity, which had greatly deottne^ 
was formed by the Frendi into a eollegeb 
and is at present used as a gTmhaaimn, 
in which is placed the town library, am- 
tainhig 94,000 volumes, a M.S. of the four 
gospels, the fameus Coniz Aureus, written ia 
golden letters, bound in plates of gOt silver, with 
figures embossed in high rdief, interspersed 
with precious stones, and having in the centre^ 
a splendid cameo, representing Augustas and 
his family, besides several other literary ourlod- 
ties. Among the collection of cnriositiea k 
Guttenberg's first bible, many other printed hooka 
of great value, and a large number of andent 
coins and medals, and also Ardibishop Engel- 
bert's M. 8. oopy of the gospeki, distingnisiied 
by many excellent pictures, a German prayer 
book, vdth masterly miniiUure painting, ten 
autogn^h letters of Luther and Ignatia^ &e. 

Treves was the bhrth-place of St. Ambrose 
and the AJbma Mater of St. Jerome. 

A pillar of granite stands in the market-plaee t 
it is surmounted by a oroas, designed to eom* 
memorate the appearance of the flery cro«^ 
wliich tradition tells us, wasseenin the sky in 958. 

The environs of Treves are diarming; many 
parts are in the style of Swiss landseapea. One 
of the chief potaits is PaUen, a village on the 
left bank of the M osdle, at the month of a 
ravine, up which the road to Aiz-la-Chapelle ie 
carried. From tliis village we behdd the moat 
iMantiful and i^etnresqae views of the vaUsy 
and its romantio environs^ eqiedaQy from tto 
archway of a bride bridge thrown over tte 
ravine by Napoleon. From tlie pretty wliite 
house on the height above FaUien, we ean e^foy 
a good view of the abbey of the Moaelle and ojf 
the city before us. 

From Treves a delightM exenralon een h% 
made to Igd, a small viUage six milei distant 
from the dty, on the road to Lozenboitfi^ 
abounding in remains of antiquity. 

Conveyanoea-^Schndlposts dai^ from Treret 
to Coblocui in 14 hours; to Lnzembourg in 6 
hours; to Bfets in 15 hours; to Bingenind Aliu 
la-ChapeUe in 19 hours. 

Steamboata on the Upper Moadle betweM 
Treves, Thursmitte, and Meti daily ini 
also to CoUens daOf 



UA 



KIROHHEDI BOLAHD— KAmBLAUTBSR— HOKBUBfiU 



(SOttiA 26 



Roirrr 26. 



Mayence to Mete, 

IHftance 46 EngUch milea. Diligenoe daUj, 
to KaisBenlAaterai in 34 houn. Railwiy firam 
thence to Meti. 

The road wae nutde by Napoleon to enanre a 
dfareot route from Mayoace to Fari», At abort 
diitunrfa we paai the important villagea of 
Niederolm and Womtadt,arriTing8hortl7 after 
aft 

Alzci, a amaU viUfffe vlth a population of 
3,500 inhabitanta. It is a very old pbuse, and 
perhi^ of Roman origin. The castle is at 
present an extensire rain, was blown down by 
the French in 1680. We next arrire at BCorsdi. 
hehn, a village of 600 inhabitants, vhere the 
iroad Leaves Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria 
and in half an hour after arrives at 

KiBCBBSUE Bo]UirD, a village with 8,126 in- 
habitant!* formeriy the residanoeof the Frinoes 
of Nessau-WeilbOTg. The church and fiunily 
vanlt of the Prinots are worth seeing, and the 
mountains in the vicinity, especially the date 
quarries, are interesting to the mineralogist. 

(.Six miles fr<Mn here is The Mount Tonneea^ 
or Donnersberg, frequently ascended firom this 
village. The road winding by the base of the 
mount oonductsusbytheright. The mountain, 
composed of Porphyry, is 2,000 feet above the level 
of the sea. To the plateau, you ascend in the 
•hade of chestnut trees, and flod there a fisrm 
house where you can be humbly accommodated, 
And behold the r«main8 of the great Roman 
tntrenchments, the measurement <^ which is 
1^16 feet Aq>^endid view can be obtained 
from the signal tower.] 

QnitUng Kirdbhehn Boland, we pass Btande* 
Wbl and Sombech, and reach 

Kaiaeblavtebn, prettily situated between plea- 
■ant hills^ and containing a population of 6,400 
^huhtfai^n^a. It is a vcry ancient town and in ruins. 
The Smperor Bsrbarosa built there in the twelfth 
century a cvtle separated from the town by its 
fbrtiflcations. In the war of the Spanish suc- 
ocssion it was destroyed. It is very well situated 
for trade, and encourages considerable woollen 
llanufactories. It is the seat of the central 
prison of the Rhenish circle. 
JfsUm^y to Mannheim, also to Ludwigshafen 
^odtoFuiM by Hombweg, NeuoUioheiit 8M9t« 



br&dECB, and Firbadi. Laadstnhl Statkm. a 
small town containing 1,600 Inhabitanta. The 
mined castle of the Counts of Sickengen over- 
liangs the town. It was pcurtly hewn out of tiie 
rock, and had walls 24 feet thidc. In It tile 
<Aiva]rous Frani von Sicdengen lost his life on 
May 7th, 1523, having been mortally hurt by a 
fiiUing beam. His bones rest in a vault nnder- 
neath the high altar of the Romaq GathoUc 
Church. Part of his monument, a mutilated 
statue of a horseman, stands at the bottom of 
the tower, another piece with the epitaph stan^ 
behind the high altar. Quitting Landstuhl the 
railway proceeds through an interesting conn« 
try passing Haupstthul station, and arrives at 

HoMBDRO, a small town with a popidation of 
2,850 inhabitants. From here omnibuses ply to 
Zweibriicken in labours. 

Bexbadi and Neunkirchen station. At Ren- 
deridi is the Bavarian frontier. Leaving the 
Bavarian, we enter the Prussian territory at 
flaarbrudcen. — ^Immediately after the railway 
leaves here it arrives at the first French atation. 

FirlMidi From where a raflway leads to 

Meta. (See Handbook for France.) 

{Th* BUM eon<M»u0d.) 

KouTE 27. 
Hayence to dtrasbard^, 

BY WOBM8, MANHHBiai^ ASD 8PIWE8. 

Above Mayence all, or neariy all, that piotoies. 
que beauty which lias hitherto oharacteriaed tiba 
uceat of the Rhine is lost. It no longer Aowi 
through scenery interspersed with a thousand 
charms, and hdghtened in its fairy beauty, by tiM 
history and tradition woven into ita teztare ht 
the master genius of poetry and romance; but 
directs its course through a plain, monotonoos 
and dull} nndiv«rsiAed and pUegmatio ; without 
beauty on its borders, or qrlvan lovellnoss ou 
its banks, it might be compared to the prairie ef 
the wilderness, shut up in the craggy ruggedness 
of barren hills, wild as the distant (diains of ths 
Vosges and Hardt on the west, and the Bladi 
Forest on the east, whidi form the boundarlsa of 
this flat land. 

Steamers twice daily to Mannheim in 6 
hours, returning in 4 hours. From MApitft ^fipi 
to Strasburg daily, in 20 hmirs, calling at Daz- 
lasodaOkOr LcopoUibaflBiit to dropj 



Boate^J 



•WOBMBL 



Cvimihfl. 

boufg to Mmahriia in T hoaia. Itiiiiincfaprcte. 
able to UmH w hjxtUkwy, tbo«gh Uie twem «re 
double those charged in the stauner. From 
^M*tihAiin in 12 hours to liayenoe, and in two 
Aay» to Cologne, making Miqrenee and Mannhfim 
a resting place for the night. 

EUtaagm daily from Mayanee to Marnihrtm, 
and thenoe by rail to Heidelberg. There is no 
indaoement for traveUers to foUow in a carriage 
4he direct road by the banks of the Rhine, from 
.Spires to Straebarg. The following route is 
giren for the acoMnmodatkn of tfaose who make 
Ifae tour by water. 

The low ground of Hie Tslley of the Bhine to 
Switaeiland is exoeedlngly fartile. 

Leaying Mayenoe wa proceed by Bodenheim 
and Lanbenhiem, along the bank of the Bhine, 
which is skirted by a succession of sloping hills, 
planted with vineyards. To the left we see 

NiaasTBiM, an inconaiderBble Tillage, celebrated 
for its wine, having a population of ^300 In- 
habitants. It was already known to the Romans, 
under the title Acqua Mori, because of its cele- 
brated mineral spring. It has a chapel wortti 
seeing. 

OppKinuaMisseentotheleft. liisaTeryold 
town, with a population of 8000 inhabitants, who 
are chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits, and 
in the cultivation of their vineyards. It rose 
under the CarolinglanB,firom a village to an im- 
perial town, which Joined the German union. 
On a hill, to the north-west of the town, is a ifaie 
old drarch, dedicated to St Catherine, under 
the imperial rvlmi of the Castle of Laiidskron. 
It was begun hi 1262^ and finSdied in 1317. In 
this church the German eedeslBstioal style is seen 
in Its Ughest beavty. l%e western part was de- 
stroyed in the conflagration of 1689, and is still in 
luins. The weH preserved painted window, the 
ezoeUent sculptures, and the tombs of many noble 
personages, eqwoially the family of Dalberg* 
deserve being viewed. Older than thta^ though 
less remarkable, is the lato Luthem Church, 
formerly the Parish Church of St. Sebastian, 
built in the form cf across. Within the yard of 
Ibis church is a mined ch^el. filled with the 
skulls and bones of Swedes and Spaniards, who 
foUhera in it/t raUgioas war of 1831, when the 
■aerad pneepCs of the efaviatian oode^ and the 
BAi dietiiaM <f Um laoaRMte Rasarcne, 



made su b a e t f te n t to fta fBe ftc cww cf flianBi 
ftmatioism, that with blasphemous lips and Mcsl* 
legions hands made war in the name of efariitf- 
anity, staining with crimson gore the snow-wUla 
banner of religion, and perverting tfie fln| 
prinditot of the Gospd to Justify a brothn;^ 
murder. 

To «be right, a littte abore Oppenhetan, «t 
Brfllden, is the monument, notseen from tta 
steamer, eommemofatlve of the passage of Ifaa 
Rhhie by Gustavas Adolphus. It conslsli of it 
simple pillar, snxmooatod by a Hon. TradUon 
informs us that the Swedes croesed tiw rlw 
amid songs and nijoidng, and that 1be*r gennal 
and king was teiied over on a bam door. 

At this spot the road winds very much; aads 
canal cat threugii an Istimnia, ssresseverallioitfB 
of rowing to tiie boatmen. The road now lecvea 
the borders of the river. Toiherlght wene 

GsBmHsm, asman phMe with a pepuhrtioa ef 
SOOOhihaUtaBts, thebMiplaceofnerra BioeObr. 
the partner of Faust, in the discovery of printtng, 
in whose honour there is a handsome monniMBi^ 
consisting of a colossal statue of suidrtoB^sa 
feet high, araoted on the right bahk of the : 
From here there are nmalbwiw to 



Conrad, second Dnka of Bteifah 
was, hi 1024, chosen Emperor of Oenaaqy, m 
the hffge pfadn iyhig between nprtinlMihii aaA 
Gomtersbhim, a pleasant and rich vflkgi^ wtth A 
population of MOO souls. The Septs of imi^j 
all Germany met In this plaoe on that onnsrioii 
The Bhenlsh Fraahi^ and the upper and lowtr 
Lothoringlans encamped on file Mt; the BUOH^ 
with their neighbours the Sdaves; the Hff ^ 
Franks, Barviaas, and BuaUans on thebr light 
bank, eaeh Sept under the command of their 
dulce. The Emperor was proclaimed from Iha 
Keenigstule, near LcBrsweHer .above Nachenheim, 
The route from Oppeidiefan to Worms^ is divaiy 
and uninteresting. Aboot one mile from tin 
Rhine we see Worms, parti|y oonoealed from 
view. 

WoB3fB.~(Hotel: Hotel de hi Poete.) na 
first frontier town of Bheinbh Hesse^ has a 
popubition of about 8,000 soida, 1,000 of whkii 
are Jews. It is one of the oldest German towaa^ 
was once the imperial firee city; contained • 
pcpnfartion of 80^090, and la «m&B«DSSEi 



i 



U6 



cuLTmBDKAXf— «nrAooaoB. 



[RtmMfl 



ladMd It nugr b« Mid Ihtt Iti mQ ii d«Mie 
froand. ItwMonoetheiitoof aBouunwttle- 
ment, «nd the caiUe oracted by Drums in the 
eountiy of the Ttngnbhed Yaiifioiii, gare rite 
to the town, which, in the momentoui aequd, ' 
remained an invaluable Roman itatioo, and 
when thqr had been driven out of Germany, it 
beotme the seat^ and flreqnentlj the hmg 
■qfonm of the Franeonian Idnei, eren of Chariet 
the Great, and the later Carloringeane. After 
Attfla's raTagei, thie d^ roee from its mini 
iooner than the other towni. Charlemagne wae 
married there, and held in its Tidnity the rude 
kgiahitiTe ewembliM of the Franlcs called the 
Ohamp de Mai. In the middle and modem 
Uitory of Germany, thedtywas thesoene and 
theatre of many great diett held here by the 
emperors to settle the most important eonoons 
of the empire, of which those of 1486 and of 1621 
were the most important, by the former, irtiich 
first abolished private war, cnrder was established 
In Ckrmany; and in the latter Luther appe^teA 
before the young emperor, Charles V. and the 
assembled princes, &c., to make his defence aad 
dedare his adhesion to the doetrfaies ot the 
Seformation, which were declared heretieal by 
the Diet, Within the last two centuries the dty 
has been gradually reduced from importance by 
Tarious causes, especially by i^uent wars and 
by its entire destruction and demolition by the 
Frendi, under the infamous incendiary Milac, 
the accursed instrument of Louis XIV. and 
Louvois, and by the dispersion of its inhabitants. 
Worms was one of the first towns that embraced 
the Beformation, to do which the Continental 
contests of the bishops, who were also bishops of 
Kayence, with the town, as well as the appear- 
ance of Luther, who at a latw period addressed 
iereral letters to the congregation of that dty, 
may hare greatly contributed to it. The prin- 
eipal resources of the inhabitants arise from 
agriculture, the cultivation of the vine, manu- 
flictnre of tobacco, sug^, lead, and a great 
number of oil mills. Entering the precincts of 
the town, you behold gardens on the right and 
left, which occupy the space formerly covered 
with houses. At some distance to the left, you 
behold the remains of Mariemnurister, formerly 
a rich nunnery, now a barracks. Just below 
Worms, beyond ttte walls^ is the Gothic church 




▼ineyard prodaefaD^ the wfaM ! 
Our Lady's mUk. Wwyiimg oarvingi^ 
ing the wise and foolish firgtan^ 
side of its entrance. 

The principal building Is the Cathedtdk *] 
but venerable builtUng, begun in the jear M^ 
and finished in 1016, in the Bysaotine^ or ; 
arched style. In 1018 the eastern end ni 
ehurdi fell, but was reconstructed and 
erated anew 1110^ by ArdiUshop Eppo. Ths 
south ftt>nt has ridi pointed portals^ in tbe ttjfl§ 
of the fifteenth century. Its west end taMia 
appearance of the modem style of ardiitaotanb 
In its interior are two choirs and two high altsn* 
It is 470 feet long, and gaudily onuunentad. It 
has two side chapels. In the ahapel of 8t 
Nicholas are some remarkable ^edmem of 
medisval sculpture, representing the Annqnola« 
tion, the Nativity, the genealogical tree of the 
Virgin, the Descent tram the Cross, and the 
Resurrection. In the bi^itlstry are many onrioee 
gravestones. It was in this diurch the DIsI 
was held before whidi Luther was summoned^ 
and not in the RathJiaus, on the dte of wfakh 
now stands the Lutheran church, oontainiBg 
a fresco paintinir, by Seekatz, representing 
Luther standing before the Diet. This paint- 
ing, which was much decayed, was restored at 
the Jubilee of the Reformation, hx 1817. The 
churches of St. Martin and St. Paul, the 
end and choir of which are worth seeing, 
the chair of Our Lady, without the gate of 
Mayence, might be visited. 

The Synagogue, a building of the 11th oentoij^ 
the architectural style of which period it ttiOj 
represents. The two doors and round bollding 
called Thora, for holtUng the books of the law, de* 
serve the most esmest attention, and prove par- 
ticularly interesting to architects. 

The country about Worms is interesting, and 
was called by the ancient minstrehi in their lays 
the ** Land of Joy.** In its neighbourhood, near 
the village of Pfifflighehn you may stUl see the 
ehn-tree under which Luther Is said to have 
rested on his Journey to Worms, and replied to 
the friends who would persuade him against 
entering Worms, that he *' would go to Wonna 
even though there were as many devils withtai 
its walls as there were tiles on its housee." Tbi 
green lying in the Rhine near Worms^ com* 
noid) oeUal ihA t<Mi%i^|BrdeQ« is odefanted in 



Bonte 27] 



OGOKBSnKQt— KANNBEDI. 



m 



the rooutalie talM of aadent timet, for here 
BlegfHed, the hero ot the Nibdnngenlied, a 
ifaie <dd Ooman poem, written at the eloee of 
the 12th century, kflled the dragon. Ahont one 
league outdde the town, ia Hemshdm, at which 
are.the park, gardens, and cfa&teau of the Dalbei g 
flunOy, The garden ia ftreely open to strangers. 
In the diurdi here, an erection of the 14th cen^ 
tnrj, are several monuments of this Cunily. 

Persons going down the Rhine may diversify 
tiiete route by abandoning the Rliine at Worms, 
and proceeding by Alze to Kreusnaoh on the 
Nahe^ (described at route 22,) where they ^ might 
aeoend to Oberstein, and thence return to the 
Rhine at Bingen, or go on to Treves by Briken. 
feld, and from Treves descend to Coblena on 
the Moselle. To persons acquainted with the 
scenery of the Rliine between Mayence and 
Bingen, this variation of the route will prove 
agreeable and interesting. 

Some miles above Worms, the territories of 
Baden on the right, and of Rhenish-Bavaria on 
the left bank commence : Darmstadt owns both 
banks as flur as Worms. The road passes 
Firankensthal, an industrious littie town, with a 
population of 5,000 souls. It owed its former 
flourishing etate to a colony of Flemings, 
reAigees from France and the Netherlands on 
account of religious persecutions. These 
reftigees introduced manufkctures not previously 
known in Germany, and raised the town to a 
flooriffhing state of industry. The canal of 
Frankenthal, which connects it with the Rhine, 
has been restored and made navigable. 

OoosBsnxDC. — (Inn, PfSlzer Hof ) A small 
places with a population of 1,432 souls. The 
eariositiesofthiB place are the old town^house, 
the Roman catholic chapel, and the Maranian 
duipel, built after the model of the oratory of 
Louth. To the right, about one mile at this 
tide of Mannheim, the Neckar Joins the Rhine. 
A bridge of boats leads to 

LuDwioaHAFBN on the left, which is connected 
br railway with Spires and the coal mines of 
Bexbadi, in the vicinity of Saarbruck, by Kai- 
■erlautem and Hamburgh. In June, 1849, this 
place suffered much ii^Jury from the Baden in- 
forgent mob. Close to the bonding-houses 
erected on the water side, and about one mile 
Moir the bridge of boats, the steamer cornea 
to iMriiiooriogf, and bods her paawngen 



I Maiinlkeliii.— Hotels : 

Hotel dn FaUtlnat. 
Hotel Rhemthal, very eomfortablc. 
Hotel de Russie, and Hotel dn Rhin. 
! Mannheim is situated at the infloz ef Hit 
i Necker into the Rhine, and has a population of 
I 23,000. The first stone of the town waa bid in 
I 1606, by the elector, Frederick iy„ and oca. 
tiguous to it the same prince built FrederkVg 
Castie, which, together with the town, waa do. 
stroyed in the SO years war. The town was soon 
rebuilt again, but was burned again by the VrmA 
in 1689. On that eventful occasion the Freneil 
general, beseiging the town, intimated to tiio 
townqieople the determination of his bmtal 
master, Louis Le Grand, to rednoe the town to 
ashes, and at the same time, mockingly infmnned 
them that they were privileged, jMrspedal fkvoiav 
to perpetrate this barbarism on their own bearttao 
and altars; for the consummation of which n 
time of 20 days was given them. The pec^lo 
refused, and the soldiery let loose like ft'fcw-Mff^ 
butchers of war, drove the inhabitants flrom their 
dwellings, burning them and blowing np tbo 
churches and public building% destroyinff aQ 
the works of art contained therein. An^ jot 
the monarch, by whose order this piece of baiu 
barism and cruelty was perpetrated, ii collo4 
Louis le Grand I The town was again retail^ 
and the preaent Mannheim is the third towD 
erected since 1606. So much for the horroart of 
war! 

Mumheim is now the seat of a oonsldenhlo 
trade, and is the residence of a large number of 
English families. It la protected from inonda* 
tions by a high dyke. It is an exceedingly (dm^ 
place of residence, and the society very agrco" 
able, a pleasure enhanced by the residence of tiio 
Grand Duchess Stephanie and her ooort. It 
was one time strongly fortified, but now, fortn* 
nately for its future progress. Is utterly defenoo* 
less; its fortifications having been turned into 
gardens and walks. The modem town oonslsto 
of 11 parallel streets, inteneeted at right anglso 
by 10 other streets, whidi makes the town appear 
monotonous in its rectangular regularity. TlM 
street leading from the palace to ihe Susponsleia 
Bridge ovor the Neckar^ dlnSAfisk 'Cds^ 



r^fftnir iiiifmiBi ■iiiiwfiiiMiiMmii. 



CBootoir 



two ptrti. The streets are not iuuned» but dis- 
Mngnithed by a figure and a letter. The squares 
are ornamented with fonntafaMi whldi want only 
water, which is reiy scarce here^ to make them 
nseftiL The princi|>al curiosities of the pUuse 
are the 

Polooe^ a colossal straotnre^ built of red und- 
fton^ but without aaj ardiiteotnral beanfy, and 
only remarkable tat its siae. It was ereeted hi 
1720, by the Elector PaUtine, Karl Philip, on the 
occasion of the remoral of his court from Hei- 
delberg to Mannheim. The right wing, used as 
a theatre, soifwed serer^ from tho Anstrians 
in 1796^ when they bombarded the dty. It has 
sinoe been repaired. la that bombardment^ half 
the palace was burnt, and only lihooses renained 
imiiOi''^ ^^^ Austriaoi threw, on that oo* 
easion, into the town, 28,eM cannon balh^ 
and 1780 bombs; it was garrisoned by 4^7(^9 
French, who iinally sarrendered to General 
'Wurmser. The Grand Duchess Stephanie in- 
habits a part of the pakce; another wing serres 
as a Museum, in wliich is a Gallery of Paintings, 
oontaining many excellent productions of the 
Dutch School; a collection of plaster casts, and 
a Oabiaet of Natural History, together with a 
eoBsideraUe library. In 1779, the flower of all 
the collection at Mannheim were traaaforred to 
Munich. Near the palace is the 

JuuUt Chwreh, an imposing structure. This 
building is at present occupied by the Lyceum. 
The library was the property of the late Bf« 
Dubelloo, and contains many old editions of 
classic author^ and other typograpliieal curi- 
osities. 

The Thtatre is a good building, in which 
fichniers* "Robbers" was first dramatised in 
1783. The author lived in the house named 
Gum Karlsburg, on the Parade Plats. Opposite 
the grand entrance to the Theatre is Kotxeberes 
house, in which the Insane student Sand assassin- 
ated the owner. The victim and asBSSfrin are 
buried in the dinrchyard, outside the Luthem 
Church. 

The Harmony^ is a sodal union, which arose 

from the amalgamation of the Museum and 

Csttino. This society has a pretty good Ubiary, 

mad freely admit Btnmgera. The bo<^ and 



j SekwttgkiffeiL^-^ pleasmt esenrrioo eaa be 
made from Mannheim; distant troai the palace 
9 Oennaa miles. It is rather a small town, with 
8000 inhaUtaBts. Here the garden is flie mosl 
remarkable ottfeot. ItcoTersaplaiaof 184aen% 
and its Tegetation is most hunifant, tlMMgh 
situated on a sandy ^ain. In it joa see themesi 
beaatiftil and picturesque groupe of treea. Ths 
most interestfakg parts of the garden are the 
Lindnewalk, and the gro«^ ot t r e e a In ths 
English garden; theproepeot) at the largo iifif ^ 
through tlie openhag in the forest, near Ketsb, 
e rtwK^tn g to the Vosgean moanitain% thotenpls 
of Ap(dlo» wliidi has a pecoUar diarm wInb 
aiumlnated by the setting sun, tho teazle ef 
Minerva, the diarming bathing house, tho nisa* 
did landscape round the ten^ of Meronry, Mi 
the Moeque, with its nOnarets, all presenting the 

mp pmB r a n tmafm. haantlftil aWn nn i. ThotOWSr 

should be ascended, and a s^hsndid view win be 
obtained. Tour inqteetlon is ftuther invited by 
the landscape near the birds basin; the botaaied 
garden, wiikdi ocmtains 24,000 foreign trees Mi 
shrubs, among idiidh is an ezoeilent *wJi^Mn rty| 
of Alpine plants. The gardens aro laid oat la 
the French style, and are peopled with sCatosib 

bounded fay thorn hedges, and intesseotsd bj le^ 
avenues. The orangery and 
should be visited. 

The ChdUau is scarcely worth notice. It 
originally a hunting lodge, and ia 
visited by the Grand Duke. The grounds about 
are kept in good order. In remote days it was 
the seat of the Electors Palattaie^ and 1748^ be- 
came the summer residence of tho Bleetor, 
Charles Theodore, who escpended vast sums ef 
money in changing a flat sandy plain into sa 
ornamental garden, to enjoy the distinct (ms> 
pect of a picturesque chain of hills. 

CorvBTAHCXs: Railway to Heidelbeiy, If 
English miles. Trains hi 1 hour to FVanklbrt 
and Carlsruhe, to Baden, Kehlfor StrasburgS 
Freiburg and Baden to ELaiserlanten^ Hainboi& 
and Bexbach ; Metn and Paris. 

Steamboats several times a day to Majenas 
and Coblens ; and to Strasburg daily. 

The traveller would do well to visit Spires 



from Ludwigshaven as there isnoinduoementfiir 
pieturo abop of Artarid and Fontaine, la one oE \ ticie tcK«d^ Vi ^9aA\A follow the Eliine above 
tb9begtin GermMoj. £iigliah Church aariWa \ MBxaAv««n. T:\x^\ia^Ifli^vjB^%vs<(x^S(v^^ 



Boate 27] 



SPZBESi 



Fron* Ludwlgshafen to Spires per railway. 
QuittiDg fhia station we see in tlie distance the 
castle of Heidelberg on the side of the Kaiser. 
•tuhL Passing Mutterstadt station we reach 
Schifferstadt where the branch railway to Spires 
diverges flrom the line running near to Neustadt, 
&c. Quitting Schifferstadt by this branch we 
arrive In a short time at 

SpntEs. — (Inns: Post, Adler.) An old and 
venerable city, at one time one of the capitals of 
Germany, is situated on the Spirebach left bank 
of the Rhine. It has now a population of 10,50') 
inhabitants, which at one period amounted to 
27,000. It is the seat of the president of the 
Regency, and of all the supreme boards of ad- 
ministration of the Bavarian circle of the Rhine. 
It may now however be said that its glory has 
departed, and at the present day we recognise it 
only as the shadow of its former self. It was 
called by the Romans, Clvitas Nemetun, and 
was, we are told by Tadtus, a strong and 
powerfiil outpost on the Rhine^ used for the 
purpose of resisting the attacks of the Alemanni, 
by whom it was repeatedly destroyed, and again 
rebuilt by the Emperors Constantine and Inlia- 
nus. It was also the seat of the Germanic diet, 
and chosen place of residence of the Emperor 
Charlemagne and his successors, of the Swabian 
and Franconiun lines, and had conferred upon 
it all the privileges of a free city of the Empire, 
whereby it became the seat of a flouriatiing 
trade, and the emporium of great wealth. Its 
citizens had conferred on them by Henry V, 
in 1111, a monopoly of the trade of the Rhine, 
and had a right to destroy any feudal fortress 
within three German miles of the gates. 
During the middle ages imperial fHa^ court 
magnificence, and citizen violence within and 
without were alternately the scenes enacted hi 
this city. Frequently engaged in quarrels and 
feuds with their Emperors and Bishops; they 
were as skilled in the use of arms as of mecha- 
nics or the faistruments of their trade. Armies 
oftentimes of 20,000 men, raised by the feudal 
barons, whose rq[>acity and pillage they punished 
by burning his castle to the ground, beseiged 
the dty of Spires, but were as often repulsed 
1^ the citizens, who, when not victorious had to 
BufliBr mnoh misery and spoliation of property 
Hemn titeiaromdsof these plundering amdea. 

Tt0 dtj abo mafntofned in the f ourtMoUi 



centnry an army of knights and soldiers tat iti 
defence and war purposes, and only settled into 
quiet in 1630, when an Imperial writ abolished 
the right of war, and restored peace to Gennai^. 
Sphres was for more than two centuries^ the seat of 
the Reichs-Kammergericht or Imperial Chamber, 
by which legislative enactments were enfQroed,and 
their violations punished. After the devastatkos 
committed by the hordes of Louis XI V^ it w*a 
removed to the Wetslar, in 1689. Its trade and 
prosperity began to wane in the seventeenth 
century, but did not go down altogether ontil 
iestroyed in the war of succession, during whi^ 
the greatest atrocities ware perpetrated by the 
French, who took the town in 1689, and issued 
one of the most barbarous prooUunations on 
record, whereby the citizens with their fatpinoa 
were ordered to emigrate within six days to 
Alsace, Louvahie, or Burgundy, and prohibiting 
them under pain of death from crossing the 
Rhine. At the day named in the prodamatioo 
the wretched inhabitants were driven from 
the dty at the beat of drum, and were foUowed 
by the Frendi soldiery, who had plundered the 
houses and churches of everything valuahle. 
The town was left to the sole occupation and 
mer<gr of the executioners, who, headed by th« 
Provost-marshal, entered the town with a gallows 
on the day the proclamation was issued, canying 
about with them the emblems of their profesrion. 
By orders of the French general Montdair, 
the town was set fire to, and in a few hours. 
Spires, with its 47 streets, churches^ houses^ and 
edifices sent forth one unbroken blase, that 
Ulumined the distant horizon, and fbriooslj 
penetrated into the most cherished reeeases 
of that dty, now abandoned to the destroying 
element. Nor did the work end here, for after 
a conflagration of three days and three nighty 
it was found tliat monuments, fountains, and 
many houses were still not altogether de- 
stroyed, therefore mines were sprung, and 
these classic monuments of antiquity were 
rudely blown into atoms. The venerated 
shrine of religion, beneath whose vaulted pave- 
ment were mouldering in day, the dissohred 
ashes of royal personages and imperial govemcsris 
and within whose «hjAs«^ -srfwswi -t«vi6«»^(v 
the ^wiwa.\»a. T^<«^«^ '^'*^^'=*'**^^\^^^ 



T3ft 



[BovKB? 



Vito 



tan* 



tB biBNr it tgpf bstiiHt 



in aa 



in 1772. bnt 



Mm tiMir 'so w t w ila . dw taonci fif 
MTV «n4 Ymmm vaMmnA to tk« wfadR. Y< 
rf>!l«il Hjr «wl 9pm» ftin kf iB ralu, bat 

tim\ 4m fiiliHWl i»f its 'HUM pmqd ouhii 

i^X l w «UyiiMnf1y, and fhiA ilw deptha if 

kiwi^ «n4 p<itf1«i«bm ivf bar «xll«l diUdna ir 

flMir dfWMWtanti^ «1io naim mt hmeath flu 

llMi|<yv<>fh«r9fi^s. TlMTntanwrtMtlMhmiM sspmulad opan it IdLiWOfl. inelnBvs of IT,32DL 

of tiMir ««rly ftaf* mr mMumr ywri, daeh flng:- . fiur ImQb. As pnHOE it is ; 



dnm -mrtipiiraL to ba 
it,teiiif du nwiuaftanfe of 
inwnpimif i e m atatyiiQf 
TiiiHn^ tbs ranFolntiinuB^ mpbi 
I?94b the junior <* iiM i jM.4mi« , <■— ip w^^^ , 
*&, mrs duAiufsd by 




if tiM nihMd <dty hsil in iC&nKtlsa tax 
fb«hr (MUMMtaim, th« ftMiniJbuiiMW «f Adr 
^f^iOMin P<m Maght <Miti Midbi tfaiMSpferuMiibi 
cxMed, hat only m the riMriow ()f ta tonoBr 



auhodnl, r»>op«nad fior pnbllB warship hi IBIk 
fti snaBrinr 11 madenad hi. whac arefaifeBsta oA 
tt« * Mven «j!«,'' and to tourkafaly davoM tf 
QgTMinMmt, bat th« haight and width, of tbm mm 




wtltf. C74l«i of jeaar* ha»« ^mm by, and fiarfaur 

Ihalr trmafe, pVfy<Hn<)a« h«va bwa niaad to ant- i is cwtU to e unhwi iy h rta. Dafa a u dw aaei 
ytr<NS and 4fnp4v«« r^vkmA to proffaMea^ but : Ae dioir fa tha bnpacial vanl^ h& wUdh 
9p4f«B hM AM yat raiaad ita bond. bortad af«ht emperon of €«nuiiy^ 

lliit avan tha shiilatim of thia <3«M« gna< town nuunn wan ■i r a rr a rml . by An 
tnm A<)C yataxampt trrifia tha aanflfafnary horrors prinoipnl moannwnt wnrA nation ii 
«rwar,f«rhkI7H tha ravohitlonary army andar Adolphos of Xaa^h by Ohmncht, 
CnaChM took It, and rapantad an tha atrocfty of nBjautbiaMreophngnBL oBwUehiia 
1^^. In 141< ip4raa waa e«)od to tho king of ! fl^nra of tho aoipanr hi 
Bftfiuin. Inthaintm^alDpto tMatlme^ nmefa i Bcnthnabaenercetedbychadidkcof : 
haa hoan dona to rapnir tho fat jnriaa faiffietod | thara b another to tho memory of p~*««^ tf 
an ft hy war. I Hapahorgb, by king Looia of BaTarln» 

Tho //«rfV>fra{ waa foondod fai l(»7,hy Connd i by Sdunthaler. The other ol^ecta of i 
IM tMifty m ft hnrytnf pfauro for himaalf and bia 
tneiMmftrh. AfUir his daath, Ma aon ffanry III. 
M'tgantly aontbinod tha boiMbiflr* and on hia 
tfaath In tOM, bofjoaathod to Ma aon and ane- 
wm$ »r, UmtTj IV., tha eomplatlon of thb aplen- 
did adiflnM, whtMi waa flnlshad hi inVJ. lu tfta 
bad ham pri^loaaly occupied by ft Roman tern- 
fria of Vaniis and ftftarwarda by a chritthm 
tampla, «rari4>d try I>agohcrt II. A flra hi \A50 
Mfnplataly da«troyad hi ft few honra tha work 
%rhlofa ft took thraa ganeratlom to parfect, and 



Scfarandolpfa'a fireaeoa, the beat 
worka In Germany; UieoypC, faiwhidhareaani 
tho origfaial grare-stooe of Rodolph of Hapa- 
horg, bearing hia efllgy, and traces of the 
qymng by the French, when they 
ftiHy attempted to bk>w up the 
Sclileabiger'a copy of the Madonna, hy Wipbaal 
da It. Lists; a set of priest's robea of the I4th 
oentary,beantffiil!yemboaaed and ornamented^ 
In the sacristy. On the north side of the boildi 
faig you see the mfaia of St. AfH^s ohape^ 
where lay mibnried for five years, the renuina 



wa MM In th» prMant structure, not the original 
•dlfhie of }Wti but the one eranted after 1460, j of Henry XL until the papal exoommnnicatkMi 
In whtrh the peaked stepples. tho eastern cupola, ' pronounced against him iriien living had been 
and tha round towff are the only remains of I removed, and his ashes permitted a restlng.plaoa 
fhe anelent CAthpdrsl t1liM!emlhle. This noble in the imperUJ vault. In the centre gaUaiy^ 
adiflce again nifrm-cd fWmi the French in 1609, encircling the cathedral, there ia a fine pro^Md 
mh0, thongh thpj had promised to respect it, of Ileidelberg, Mannheim, the Harts mountain^ 
Jmd thmrehy pmuhuI fhe rltlxins to flU It wUb aW \ Clc.^ Mv4L\Vi«tA<miltaelf issurrounedbybeantlflil 
ih«/F ruhrnhhti, yet plaidorad It anA buni«& \ p\«KBac«-^o>iti^«>x«x;Scaxw<^«^^\i%^^ 
mii ai»% wan ff MMuntable hi tho wcat end cttpo\ft, \ \ti «^ft tiot^atv-^M^. >iAsi ksS. xjaa Uon. ^ te«P 
mmrm, maa mhulr. aiiaM GaIUo barbarian, taio \ 4^afcUa.'«\>i^ ««J«to» V5«i^ ^«=«i^ ^\^a«as 



Bonte 27J 

•atiquitieij^ ftitofli, altan^ ooins, TOthre taUeti^ 
fword-bladea, and a branse itotiM of Mer- 
enry, the eagle of the Roman legion, and 
■cnlptorea, representing loenes tmok the Paa> 
•ion, with engravings of the Mount of Olives. 
The only remains of the Ritaeher, in which 29 
diets were held, is a broken wall, adjoining the 
Protestant church (built in 1717). The protest 
of the princes and cities against the decree of 
fhe diet which was held here in 1529, originated 
the name Protutant, There exists in Sphres a 
Barmony, a dub to which travellers may be 
admitted, on being introduced, to read the 
newspapers. 

Fromhere a good road leads to Landau and 
to the castle of Trifels, the prison of Ridiard 
CoBur de Lion. 
(Voyage up ^le BMm, from Spires, conHmudJ 

Quitting Sphres we continue our voyage up the 
Bhine, and on our right, pass Pliillipebnrg, 
built between 1666 and 1571, by Philip Von 
Sotem, archbishop of Spires, after whom it is 
named. It was once an imperial fortress, but 
was demolished in 1800. Below tho level of the 
Bhine, foetid and unsalubrious morasses over, 
spread the country. Proceeding on we are 
attracted by the dght of 

Gbrxsbshbim, on the left, where there is a 
bridge of boats, connecting it with the opposite 
bank of the Bhine. The town was founded by 
Budolph of Hapsburg, who granted to it all the 
privileges possessed by tho free imperial town of 
Spires. This celebrated emperor died herein 
1291. The German Confederation have, since 
183i, greatly rtrengthened it and converted it 
Into a fortress. It is a dirty, miserable hole of a 
place, and the traveller would find himself much 
disaj^ohited were he to disembark and pay it a 
visit. A road to Alsace and Switzerland passes 
through it, connected with the opposite bank of 
the Bhine by the bridge of boats previously 
•lladed to. The next place seen on the left is 
Lauterberg, where the Lanter Joins the Bbine, 
and separates Alsace and the Palatinate. Fur- 
ther cm, to the right, we see the pretty vUIage of 
Le(^oldshafen, formerly known as the village of 
Shrodc. This village, though handsome and 
^ctnresque, is yet devoid of aU accommodation 
for trsveUers. Passengers for Cartomho (foot 
aUle§ dittaat)are landed at Knidingen CInn« Zuia 
Mubtlmd^ a smaflrOtaf a to th« right, wfaiMira 



VA 



see a bridge of boats. Ooae by is tiM villa of 
Margrave Max of Baden. Along the tervitorlif 
of Darmstadt and Baden the right bank of th* 
BUne is lined with stone dykes for proteotinf 
the bank, by this means upwards of 100^000 aeref 
of land have been gained, whidi grows rich and 
luxuriant meadows. To the right we see, fix 
miles Baden-baden, the village of Iffetsheim, 
and on the left the fortress of St. Louis, raised 
by yauban> and destroyed by the Austrians. In 
1793. On a sunny day, when the atmoq>h6r6 la 
dear, we can see, though 27 miles off, the 9ir« 
of Strasburg. In this part of the course of tha 
Bhine it is said that gold is found among tlM 
gravel and stones. 

StrasbarK.— HoTxu : 
The Ho^el de Paris deserves our best reccnn* 

mendation : landlort*, Mr. Diemer. 
Hotd de la Fleur, quiet and reasonable. 
Hotel de la Maison Bouge, comfortable and 
moderate : landlord, Mr. Caspar! 



Strasburg is a powerful frontier fortress, sito- 
ated on the lU, which intersecU the town in all 
directions, and contaim a population of 68,200 
inhabitants and a garrison of 6,000 men. Tha 
III and Brench unite near the Weissein Thoro 
(white gate). It has 260 streets, inclusive of l4 
larger and smaller public thwoughftures.' The 
streets are mostly narrow, ana tne houses hikh, 
whilst on every side we see the traces of an im- 
perial German town, which Strasburg yet pre- 

, serves, notwithstanding that it has been united 
to France for nearly two centuries. It is now 

\ the diief town of the Department dn Bas Bhi^ 
and was formerly a free imperial dty of the Qer^ 
man empire. Louis XIV., in 1681, attacked, took, 
and annexed it to his kingdom at a time when 

I he had not even the plea of warfSu« for so doings 

• he being at iHrofound peace with the kingdom. 
It capitulated, and thus preserved many of ua 
andent rights and privileges. Its origin may ba 
traced to the most remote times— to the epoch B.O. 

when inhabited by the ancient Celts, who were 
superseded by the Bomans, and hence it is oalMl 
the Argeatoratum of the Bomtns, whidi was d*> 
itroyed by the invading barbarians in thefith osn- 
t«ry^indtebtla\\s1<B^^Twi^»\^^ac«i'*^ 
\ «ha9t Y«rtaA etfBteA. %x»»*8tt«««aasi. ^ ^ 

CattiftftwA or K^a«lw^ «^ ^^'^J:i:i^\i5«» 



in 



n moiiAS cBOfecsK- rmnao ubbait. 



[BmrtslT 



Tht flnt CtfhedrmI wm boOt I7 
Louis I., abo«t 010, and a choir wm adted 
by Cluuiif the Great; bat Id igOT tha build, 
isip wat rtdoeed ta aAet by Hgfatnlng, and 
th9 foundatloa of a sew Gatbodral tras laid in 
1015, by Bifebop Warner, of the bonee of Bapa- 
bvgh, which wae fiaiehed In 1375. Iti tpirm It 
tba hiffaeat fai the world, bdng 4«S feet from tiie 
p ar em e n t, 34 feet hff ber than the great pynunid 
•f Egypt, and 160 feet higher than St. P«4il*i^ 
Lopdoti. Its erection waa oooimeneed in 1370, 
after a derign by the great aniet, Erwin of Mefai. 
badi, who wae entmeted with the ezecution of 
Hiawoik. However, the eteeple of tb* north 
iide only was tiniihetl, and tlie other rises rerj 
Httle abcre the roof. Erwin died In 1318, and 
Us son John ounttnned tlie bonding np to tlie 
flat roo^ and his dan^tter flabina ornamented 
Um great portaL This fluidly of arehitaets are 
burled within the Cathedral. The tower was 
not completed nntU 1433; when it was llnidied 
by a Cologne artist, John Hiilta, who was brought 
to Btrssb u rg, for tlihi purpose. Worth seefaig, 
and will wen repay a minute Infection are the 
three western portals, whose sculptures were 
•ffaoed during the '*refgn of terror,** in 1793, 
but since restored after the old models, the rest 
and beantlfnl window orer the portal. It Is 43 
feet in diameter, and composed of ridi painted 
glass, the beautiful font of 1453, in the north 
transept, and the pulpit of carved stone, 1416, 
and the large choir with the high altar, and 
below, in the holy sepulchre, the tombs of Jolm 
AeUer, of Kaisrrsberg, of Konrad 11^ that of 
Mantelln, the first printer of Strasbnrg, and 
these of Ehrwin and his cliUdren. The clock, 
however, is the most remarkable thing connected 
with this Cathedral. It is a complete astronomical 
Almanac, flrom which you can read the revolu- 
tions of the heavenly bodies, and the various 
ph«}noniena which th«y exhibit. It has three 
departments ; the first is astronomical, the second 
ecclesiastical, indicating the fasts and holydays 
of the Roman Catholic ^hurdi, and the third 



gnia endodDg Aa I 
adventaier ta flie top. To a pesaon 
nerve there is no danger In »mfmmtMmg ft. ni 
aaeent wffl be wen repaid by the ptoaaoR dertwa^ 
firom a minute lnq>ection of the iiiniiMmj 
wroQght tracery, the ddlcately Bgbit and nmgal' 
floentty diiselled angles and ornaments^ andthi 
sple nd idly chiselled pUlars supporting ttie opsi 
stone work, resembling bars of iron. Inailhig em 
to believe himself in a net subtended baiwesi 
Earth and Heaven. The winding stair tcnBiB< 
ates under a qieefes of carved work. Tha vtoi 
frmn the top embraces the diy, the Black Forei 
in Germany, tlie Vosges Moantalm^ and ttl 
Ehlne district: but it is the exploit, and the MgK 
Ifcat will Kpay, mora than tba paroapcet tti 
adventurous dlmber. 

Tha Cktmh qfSt. Thomas Is need for Uieeda 
bratkm of the Protestant service. It ««ni««hM 
the magnificent tomb of Marshal Baste, execated 
In marble, by Fagalle, and looked upon as oaed 
Us masterpieces. It is plain, though beantlftil; 
and was erected to tlM Marshal's memory bg 
Louis XV. It represents a heantifva fandi 
figure^ endeavouring to stay the advance d 
death, and to detain the general, who ^»pesii 
descending calmly and with dignity to the grava 
In this church also, are the monnmentt d 
Sdiopflin, by Peters, erected by his sister, of 
Oberlin, executed by Olunachtrs maaterly **«*J^ 
In a vault beneath the church ai« acMme pm 
served corpses, two of whidi are said to be thi 
bodies of a Count of Nassau Saarwerden md 
his daughter, buried upwards of a oentory. 

The Academie RoyoU, founded in 168^ ad 

erected with a miiversity in 1621, waa torm&Af I 

Protestant school. Tht rnlrninlt j n im h i hhm mmi 

at tlie revolution. It waa the Alma JfaM 

of several eminent sch<rian^ among whom tuk 

as the most remarkable Sdiweigfaaoaer, Obcrik 

Schopflin, &c.; Goethe, also, completed Ml 

studies here, and in 1772 took his degree d 

Doctor in Laws. In it Is the Mnaemn d 

Natural History, containing a very select aai 

ofllce of the automaton is a moral and religious I valuable colleetion of fossils, &c. In the botanleil 

one. 1 collection is the trunk of a sUver flr, whldi wa 

An eMMj BMcmt may be made to «he platform, % feet in diameter, and 150 feet high. 

two. thirda of the way up ; andif an ascent »\ion\d \ 1Vi« FviMA Library, near the new chordi, eor 

A# wlMhed to the sunomlt, th# waKAimMit wbo \ Xi&iva \^A4KM "i^xmMa^ «xA ^«rs TiasBs^«nrf 

'^mbum in thim atation, will. If the parUea have \ ca«\!Q«ftA«sc««ive««Ti^^*\«aftAi«e^'t^^ 

^^UJti0d the mmjor'B peraiiriaion, unloekthnVton UwraAa, K\te«a «* ^«SWKfitw«^ ^e»&&^Nb« 



atodliiflMeix]7Byawtiiieilgrto(1180) aMiMl; | Baak^ (sm HMidrbo«k for FvoxMe;) froatKiU 



in lilrtf letien^ on purple Tellnm, and many 
books of th« earliMt date of printing. A ool- 
lection of andent coins is also connected with 
It; and there is contiguous to it an obser. 
Tatory. 

The Theatre, a magnificent building at the 
eztremitgr of the beautifUl proaMnade le Broglu. 
The entrance is adorned with six Ionian colunuu^ 
surmounted by the muses, the whole being an 
execution by Olienacht. 

The principal promenade is the Ruprechttau^ 
beyond the walls. The cky gates are closed each 
erening at 10 o'dock, after wUch there is no 
egress or ingress. 

In the centre of the Palace d*Armes» is avanlt, 
beneath which repose the ashes of Qeneral Kleber, 
to whose memory a monument is erected orer 
the vault. 

The ^senoZ will repsy a visit to those interested 
in military armaments. It contains fire arms for 
)65»000 men, 952 pieces of cannon. There is also 
a large cannon foundry, and the country around 
the dty, between the 111 and the Rhine^ can bo 
laid under water, thereby rendering the fortress 
almosjt impregnable. 

The Synagogue, a new buildins^ erected in 
1834^ by the children of the Hebrew race, who 
were at one time cruelly persecuted and inhu. 
manly tortured in this city. On the spot where 
now stands the Prefecture, over 2000 of the per. 
secuted race were burned ina bonfire, by pe<^»le 
oaDing themselves diristians, but whose Christi- 
anity was nothing more or less than a hollow 
mockery and miserable imposture. 

A bronse statue, neeir the Cathedral, com- 
memorates the memory of Peter SdiofBn, who 
assisted Gutlenberg in his discovery of printing. 
In the Palaoe of Gutlenberg is a statue to the 
memory of the latter, who made his firstattempt 
at printing in Strasburg, and brought it to per- 
fection at Mayence. 

Strasburg is fkvourably situated for commeroer 
the Rhine oonnecting it with Switserland, Hol- 
land, and Belgium : its diief exports are com, 
flax, hemp^ wine and spirits, linen, sfJl-doth, 
blankets, carpets, hardware, leather, cotton, laee^ 
tobaooo, and SBufT. 

Strasburg and Paris BaUway : Frmn Stnsbvrg 
to Tadm in Uboun, Wigencm to Lyons Im 
^ Moatw; toLao^aufa l^ boon. Railway to 



to the Great Baden raUway, to Sarrebeag. 

Steamers Daily to Mannheim and Mayenosk 
'Vvona Strasburg to Mayenoe^ fbe Jomn^ ii 
made nearly as quiik by water ae by raU, vis 
6^ hours, but H takes two long days tc aocoB- 
plish the journey up flrom Mayenee. 

A new canal opens into the Rhine below the 
bridge of Kehl, connecting it with the IB. B|y 
means of this canal, steamboats, &c. are en« 
abled to penetrate into the heart of Strarimrf « 
As we enter, the Spire pressnts a beavlifU ap- 
pearance^ and ought to command the attentloa 
ofthetonrisl. Two miles above the canal is the 
bridge of boats eomiecttng Gennany with Rranoe 

BoiTTE 28. 
Frankftirt to Basle* 

ST DABMSTADT, nBIDELBBRO, CJUOiSKinil^' 
FBUBUBO. 

Railway ; Frankfort to Heidelberg or 
heim in three hours, by the Nain Neknr SIsaD* 
bahn; distance 46^ English miles. 

Heidelberg to Haltingen, four miles ttom 
Basle, 156^ English miles, in nine hours^ by th* 
Badinhe Staatsbaden. 

The railway quitting the terminus at Frodb* 
fort, situated inside the Gallus Ther, crowei th« 
Maine by means of a reoentiy constructed bridge* 
and passes the height or the left, on the eminenoe 
of which we see the Watdi-tower of Sachsssi* 
hausen, the prospect frran which embraces a 
splendid view over Frankfort, the Maine, and 
the distant Taonos rendered more picturesque 
and charming by the vineyards and sweet viDaa 
scattered over the immediate foreground. 

The railway to Off«Dbach branches off at 
Sachsenhausen. (For ftirther particulars see 
Bradshaufi Continental Chiide), 

LAXOBir Station : Leaving this place our route 
is through a flat and uninteresting country up t« 
Darmstadt. Before our arrival at this place we 
pass the unimportant station of Ariieilgen. 

Dariii8tadt.~Inns : 
Hotel de Kahler, near the railway station. 
Darmstadter Hof. 
Traube, (Bunch of Grapes.) 

Darmstadt thiaT«&<^eMA ^^Qosb ^'^^'^^^SS^ 

and ^tt iMSu «& %o^««g>«o»-> J^ ^,,jte* 
■uyMm% 



J 



134 



PALAOB— THBATRB— CASZZrO— lEZrVXBOHI. 



CBmitell 



gentle decHTKy, wUch at present is oorered 
with rerj pictnresqne housesi whilst in the 
three other directions it is bordered by sn 
eztensiye plain, scantily fiiTonred by nature 
*x»wards the Rhine and Maine, but highly ferti- 
•ised by the indnstry of the inhabitants, and 



The JBoNKRi (kUhoUe Chirdk, a brksk •Oftaii 
bidlt after designs by MoUer. It stands i^ontibl 
Riedeolberg, and overtops aU the other hoosah 
It presents the appearance dm large ro tu nd ^ 
and is remarkably ttrDdng in its simple sCyls «l 
ardiitecture, as well as by the hannonj of li 



presenting many beantiftil prospects to the I proportions. 

loTers of woodland scenery, where it borders | The Exerdre Haut, or I>rilling4ioiiae^ asitll 

Odenwald and the Bergstrasse. Darmstadt con. j called, is in the immediate Tidnity of the theatre 



tains a population of 22,100 inhabitants, the 
minority of whom are protestants. The town is 
nndiversified and dull, offering in its general 
aspect very little indncement to traTcUers to 
linger within its walls. The streets are wide 



and considered to be a master-pieoe of arebiteo> 
tore. It was erected by order of the Landgrsrt 
Lewis IX., in 1771, for garrison exercise in bad 
weather. It was built by a common, or hedge* 
carpenter named J. M. Schirkneeht) and indosfli 



and straight, the houses in general built ringly, | a space of 319 feet in length and 161 in breadfi^ 
and the squares numerous. At the termination • unsupported by piUars. The building is aov 
of the Rheinstrasse is a column 134 feet high, on i used as an artillery depdt. The hanging-werk 
the top of which is a statue, by Bchwanthaler, of i by which the building is upheld is deemed • 
the Grand Duke Louis. ; masterpiece of workmanship in its way. 

PcHaee (old) is an edifice of different ages, I The Casino is esteemed to be one of the hand. 
commencing with the sixteenth and ending with | gomest and most tasteftd in Germany. SocU 
the eighteenth century, and is surrounded by , amusements have gained greatly by the ii»»V^ cf 
shrubberies and gardens. In this palace is the { the older dubs, and late evening society, nov 



MtueumofP<dntingaxidot Natural History. The 
collection of paintings consist of 700 of all kinds, 
exhibited in nine large rooms, the different 
schools being classified, as may be seen by the 
catalogue, which can easily be obtidned. There 
IS also an important collection of painted glass,and 
very many antique ivory carvings, enamels, &c. 

The Cabinet of Natural History is particularly 
valuable on account of the bones of animals quite 
unknown to the prevent generation contained 
therein. This cabinet also abounds in stuffed 
birds, and has the remains of the elephant and 
whale, bony fragments of the rhinoceros flrom 
Oppenheim, remains of the Deinotherium, an 
amphibious animal, a spedes now extinct, and 



established under the denomination of tts 
** United Sodety.** It is made up of more tiisa 
400 members, who meet each evening. Be^eet- 
able persons are admitted, and strangers intra* 
duced by a member liave firee access for anentin 
month. The Casino was built by subscriptioii. 
The Lower Chamber of the Duchy is under the 
same roof. The gentlemen meet every day to 
read and converse, or play, and eadi Thnrsdsy 
a drde of ladies Join the gentlemooi for the 
purposes of social amusement, and in wintar 
a ball is given every night. 

The Gardens of the Palaeej or Hermgarten, 
lie over against the palace, and are prettily laid 
out, but shameftilly neglected. Particnlar^ 



large in size as the elephant, and of the sus anti- \ interesting is the spot of irterment whidx Mar> 
gia from Eppelsheim, in the sandpits of which 
place were found these remarkable specimens 
' together with marine shells. 

The PubUc Library is also situated in the pa- 
lace and contidns 200,000 volumes. It is open 
each week day, Saturday excepted, firom 10 to 
12 a.m., and from 2 to 4 p.m., and the inhabi- 
tants are allowed to take books out/re«. 

The Theatre, built in 1818 and 1819, by MoUer, 

spupU of the cdebrated Wdnhenner, after a 

jioble style ofArcbiteotare, is quite insulated. It 

eoDtMin about 2,0(H> apectaton. 



gravhie Henrietta Caroline, the 
mother of the present king of FmssU, chose ftr 
herself beneath gloomy oypresses. She was s 
high-spirited woman and of a rare goodness of 
heart. Frederick the Great caused an nm of 
Carara nuurble to be placed over her tomb, with 
thefonowinghucription: ** Bexu faeminaimgtm 
vir.** 

Darmstadt can boast of very little commeroi^ 
or of active industry. 

The Environs qf Darmstadt have many pleesnl 
\ wa\ka, oft«i\n%^5nMXVDAuioameQts to Um lovan 



ROI^SSI 



EBJCB8TAOT— ZWnrGEHBSBG — ^KELIBOCUS. 



136 



•f rani soenery and pictareBqiM neatneM. 
Among the principal is the Linden WaDc, without 
tiie Bhinegate; the road to the Grosie Veos, or 
large pond; to the Bninen, three waling beanti- 
ftiUj sitnated in a wood; to the Carlshof; the 
•eat of tlM late Baron Barkcliaiuen, open to the 
pnblic all the year round; to the Faaanery 
(pheasant preserve); and to the Kranichstain, an 
old hunting sei^ where wild boars are kept for 
the dnoal ciiase. 

Eikoaffen twice daily to Blayence, at 6 a.m. 
and 4 p.m., by Gross-gerau, crossing byaf^iy 
opposite CasteL Distance, 4^ Oermsi miles, or 
18 miles Englisb, in 3^ hours. 

Leaving the last station, the railway directs its 
comveto 

Ebbrstabt.— A smail villi^e on the Modan- 
Brook, tLe seat of varioas kinds of industry. 
Quitting Eberstadt we see a short distance off, 
the ruins of the castle of Frankenstein on liie 
left. 

Close to this station and some miles south of 
Darmstadt commences the picturesque district 
called the Odenwald or forest of Odin. It lies 
on the road to Heidelberg, east of the railwa/, 
and on the way to the last mentioned place 
some of its most interesting scenery may be 
▼isited, particularly the ascent of the Melibocus, 
which ought not to be omitted by any, even 
though their convenience did not permit a visit 
to the entire. A mountainous road through the 
oentre of the Odenwald leads from Darmstadt 
to Heidelberg. Brensbach, Erbadi, and Hirscfa- 
hom are the stations. Midielstadt is a good 
halt, but the accommodation is so bad that the 
traveller had better fNrooeed and not stop. 
The entire distance is 69 English miles. From 
Darmstadt to Heidelberg, the railway dhrects 
Its course for the greater part of the way by 
the old post road, remarkable for its picturesque 
beauty and agreeable scenery. This road 
is called the B0rgttra»$e, firom the mountains 
at the foot of which it runs, for it is perfectly 
level itself. It is boautiftil in the brilliant 
a^ect, presented by cultivated fertility and 
luxuriant vegetation, distinguishing the district 
it overlooks, and enlivened by the gifanpses of the 
•parUing Rhfaie^ seen at times through its dim 
Umits, bounded by the outlines of tiie Vbsges 
mountains hi France. To the left we see the 

bonndaiy of the Odenwald, adiainof monntaina 

p 



wooded and vine-dad, t)earing a ruined castle of 
feudal ages on their firowning brows A short 
distance to the right, and running parallel ^Htii 
the rail-road, to which it is dose, stretdies in 
giant-like dimensions, a vast sandy plain, inter- 
sected by the meandering Rldne^ and having for 
its remote boundaries, the lof^ heights of Mont 
Tonnere and the Vosges, at a distance of more 
than five English miles. At the base of the 
mountains we see beantifUlly and grandly located 
towns and villages, canopied by the ovecu 
hangfing vincdad slopes, and embowered wiihin 
orcliarda, which form delightfol avenues or 
walks between the towns and villages. 

Zwnff esHBBBS— (Inn : Lowe), a dieerM 
country town with a population of 1,600. sltoated 
immediately under the sylvan Melibocus— visiiiURi 
to whidi, should leave the railway here, and 
procure refireshments at the inn bdow, as none 
can be got on the top. The excursion ean be 
made in firom six to seven hours^ whidi are 
occupied in the entire excurrion to the Mdiboeao^ 
Fdsberg, Fdsenmeer, and by the valley of Schon- 
berg, back to Auerbaoh and Zwingenberg. The 
keys of the tower, kept at Auerbach and at 
Alsbach, should be asked for before starting. 
From the tower only can be got a commandfcug 
view of the Odenwald and its hills dofftcd 
with forests. 

The Melibocus or MakJten is a liiU of granite, 
conically shaped, and is the highest of the 
Odenwald chahi, behig 1,632 Paris feet above 
the levd of the sea On its loftiest summit is a 
white tower, erected in 1772, which attracts 
attention for miles on every side. A grand view 
ean be enjoyed £rom tiiis Bdvidere. At a remote 
distance to the left. Spires, and Mannheim wKh 
its slated dome are dimly shadowed ibrtli, oppo* 
site which are brightly reflected. Worms and 
its gothic cathedral, with the gloomy towers of 
Mayence firowning beneath and ftirther down. 
The Tower is situated on the dedivity of the 
hill and commands a view of the hamlets and 
gardens of the Bergstrasse, the course ct the 
RUne, and its waters sparkling in the golden 
glare of a noon-day sun, during a course of ^er 
sixty miles from Mannheim to Bingen, until it 
is lost in the deep recesses of the mountains of 
the Rheingau, wtiidi form the boundary of the 
view on that side. We also can distinisalcSv^Sbik 
K«€kax« aaV\ ^w^ v(S£kQJd(^ <«iiA^i,<«s^>&& 



ll 



186 



MKUBOOUIp 



[Boilifi 



llaenM with tlM BfafaM. The tQww of tlw 
Btrubnrg cathedral, 100 mllM diata&t, can be 
dlstingniihed on a dear daj» If a teleaeopo be 
brooght to bear on H. Nortfawarde yon see at a 
distance of 61 mflea, the monntafaif near Glwe en 
In Heaie, and on the east the Odenwald greets 
the eye, orer whoee forest heights the prospect 
ranges as fkr as Wiirsbarg, and on the wert, the 

Tiew stretches across the BhSne antnfaiteroepted 
by the shrte-ooloured peaks of the Yosgcs and 
Ifonnt Tonnerre^ 10 miles off. 

Tourists wishing to extend their Joomoy 
through the Odenwald, continnetbe excursion by 
a path leading to the Felsberg Monnt of BadkM, 
1546 feet high and sannotmted by * hnntfaig lodge, 
commanding a noble project. It Is separated 
f^om the MelibocuB by one of the greenest TaOeys 
In the district. Close to the Jageriiaas, a hnnt- 
hig lodge, and by the path side, leading to Sei^ 
dienbaeb, we meet the Rieaentduiey a column 
80 feet long and i feet in diameter, and compoaed 
of hard syenite, closely resembling the roclc 
oonstituting the mountain. Close to this is the 
MieMenaUoTf a roclcy altar composed of the same 
material. The origin of these have not been 
uoertained, and it becomes a matter of much 
euriosity to leam under what obrcumstanoes these 
trophies of human power were erected in a far 
remote sequestered forest. Various surmises have 
been hazarded on the sulifject, but the most plau- 
sible are, that they are ruins of worlu by Roman 
artificers, when established in this part of Ger- 
many, comprised in the Agri decumates. Others 
eontend that they are of German origin, and 
were originally designed to form part of the 
materials for a temple to Odin. It was once 
thought to remove them, for the purpose of in- 
oorporating them in the erection of a column on 
the field of Leipzig, to commemorate the victory. 
"We next see the FeUenmeer (sea of rocks,) a 
▼ast accumulation of rodcs, extending almost 
from the summit of the Felsberg to Beichenbach, 
and looking as if vomited out of some cliasm by 
nature, in one of her dreadful convulsions. At 
tliis point two ways, by which to return, are before 
us. One by Reichenbach and Auerl>ach to 
Zwingenberg station, or from Auerl>ach by a 
pretty fUr road, through Schunborg,Reicheiiberg, 
the hill of Winterka»tcn and Reichclaheim to 
Erbach (where is a poor inn, the Zum Odenwald) 
» small but prettj village, with 1000 inhab\taiits. 



sMMtedfaia vriley. Hi ddehvoh,, 

flie tofflfai of the Knii^ of AHendorf^ ii mttii 

leetaig. 

gf^^fitM. It Stands on the site of SB old hvonU 
nridence, whifdti has flJBen Into ruins mad ben 
destroyed, except the doqfoigi towec^ fai vhkb 
is an armoury deeply Interesting, hf hm of the 

i historical assodatkmconneeted with eadii 

! In its eoUection. Among the bmmI 
are the suits worn by FhiUp of Bargiadjy caDsd 
the ^Good" Frederidc UL, Unxfanlllaa the 1st 
of Austria, Gian Glaoonfto Medlol, Margme 
Albert, of Brandenburg, Gustavos ▲do^phHt 
and Wallenstefai. The sniU of the two ktttr 
personages^ were originally in the arsenal «tlla> 
remberg, as likewise many others in the kA. Tt 
eadi suit is attadMd some history; soom aie 
arranged cm horseback, and others on foottSS 
after the fiuhion of a tonmanaent. Vade« 
indeed are thehlstoriee, as were the pursolta s»d 
^*^Mtff of their owners^ eome of wiieai wvs 
robber knights that expiated their evtt deeds m 
thescaffold In the chapel will be aeon thsooOsi 
in which repoeed the remidns of Charlegmgnifi 
son-in-law and seoretary, Eglnhard, and Ui 
CklthAil wife Emma. These interesting memorisk 
of the dead were transferred in 1810^ firosa tbi 
church at SeUgenstadt, to their present xestinf 
place. The Castle itself will be found to oontsio 
several other interesting curiosities In the shapt 
of painted glass, antiques, vasee, flrearms^ the 
panoply of Frans, of Biddngen, of Gots, of 
Beriichingen, a small suit made for Thomsl^ 
the dwarf of the Archduke Ferdinand tt 
Austria; the iron hand from HeUbrram, &«, 

An excellent post road oonnecte ErbMdb wMi 
Darmstadt, and is carried through a vesy agree- 
able and picturesque country, for the entire dis- 
tance of 3} German miles. Tourista ean alao go 
from Erbach to Heildelberg, by BeerfeldeD and 
Eberbach, on the Medcar, and deecend the river 
and proceed on by the banks. 

The Cattle o/Rodenttein with whoee history li 
identified the legend of the wild huntsman, eho 
files through the air with a boisterous retinue on 
the eve of vrar, is a modem edifice, surrounded 
by forests, situated in a singularly wild mountain 
district, 9 miles north-west from Erbach, midwsy 
between Richelsheim and Bilstoin. FromBetcbeU 
a^hc&m^X)^ Yuaeth^aroad leads to Weinhehn Station 



Bmtt6 28J 



AtTKBBAeR^BSarSHSlM— 'iWmiHEIlC 



m 



•n the BergstrasK^ along by which from Dann- 
itadt to the hitter plaoe^ the railway nma paraileL 
At Weinhehn,itdiTergeatocroa8theNe<tor,at 
Ladenburg, a Bhort distance from wliich it Joins 
tlie Odine, between Blannbeim and Hdddberg 
midway. 

AuBRBAOB Station — (Inns: Krone and Rose) 
is situated on the left of the road, in a beantiM 
and picturesque neighbourhood. It is a large 
and proq^eroas viUage, with a mineral spring. 
Travellers would do well to make an excursion 
from iliis pkce, which can be done in a light 
ear, to the Castte of Aoerfoerg, two miles from 
the Tillage. It leads to the Melibocus, by a 
riiady and agreeable path. 

The Lcmdbcrg is situated south of Auerbaoh, 
It conirists of a mound or small hill in the centre 
of a field, and is remaitoible as having been the 
place which in ancient times the Burgraves of 
Starkenberg held tiie Oaugeriob^ a qpedes of 
court. 

Bbhshbim Stetion.— (Hotel Sonne) is a small 
town ftiU of industry and commerce. This and 
Its sttnation on the slope of vine hills, together 
with the character of antiquity displayed in the 
arctiiteeture of the houses, the ruined and broken 
up fortiflcations, the high walls and turrets, and 
deep moats imparts to the little town a peculiar 
charm. 

The AUb^ of Lor9ck lies about three miles 
west of Bensheim, and is one of the oldest 
gothio ruins in this portion of Germany. The 
original church was consecrated in 774, tai pre- 
sence of Charlemagne and his funily, and a 
fragment of its portico still remains. In the 
other portions of the buil^Ung we distingidsh the 
debased Roman style of the eleventh century. 
A portion of it is now used as a fruit store house. 
A number of cloisters wore fbunded by this 
Abbey which soon became rich and powerftil, 
and the country all round owes to it mudi of its 
civilisation, it having been reclaimed firom 
a barren wilderness to a state of high cultivation* 
Within this Abbey died, with the monk's cowl, 
the Duke Thassalio of Bavaria, deposed for 
treason by Ctudrlemagne. 

HsFPKiTBEnc Station.— (Inns, Halber Mond) 
agreeably situated, but presenting a de- 
cayed appearance. The dinrch was built by 
Charlems^ne. It contains a good painting of 
the Saviour. A ehannlng moostaln risea beyond 



tiietown, fbrmerly ealed Befkhelden, Itawl. 
oudy planted with vines and tram trees. An 
ea«y path wfands round It to the ruins of the 
eastie of Starfcenbergj built in 1,0<M, by the Abbots 
of Lorscb, as a defenceagldnst the attacks ofliite* 
German Emperors. It afterwards 'fell into the 
hands of tiie Arddjyishop of Mayenee^ who gar* 
risoned it and prised it-as an invahiable stAmg 
hold. It was the object 'of sevieral seiges by the 
Spaniard, Swedes, and French. A p lctm ew tu e 
garden surrounds the ruins. 

A post now takes the traveller tnftti Bippen- 
hefan to Worms, 2f German miles distance^ by 
L'orseh and Burstadt The railway on quitting 
HIppenheim at a short distance leaves the terri- 
tory of Darmstadt, and enters that of Baden. 

HsnrsBACH Stetion: Close by here is the 
country residence of M. Rothschild of Vrankfbrt. 
In tills neighbonihood he has v^ry large estates. 

WsuiHciK 8tation.-^Inns : 
HotdDerKstrbberg. 
FfSlzenr Hof. 

Weinhelm is a small town whh a population of 
6,000 Inhabitants, built In an amphhheatneal 
form, against the bosom of a mount. In every 
portion of the town you dlBcem traces of high 
antiquity; and dose by is grown the best wine 
of the Bergstrasse, of whi<di the country around 
is the most fertile and finest spot. The castle of 
Windeck which lies behind the town on a vine- 
hill, affords a beautiftil protect, and is remark- 
able for its donjon tower of i^lindrical form. 
Weinheim also has fix churches, situated on a 
beautifrd eminence, and an hospital. 

Quitting the last stetion the nUIway boids 
towards the south west, leaving the Bergstrasse^ 
and taking a direct course to the Neckar. 

Ladekbubo Station : The oldest town in this 
part of the Rhenish Palatinate, probably the 
Leopedeum of the Romans, situated on the 
bank of the Neckar, where it makes a fine ^>* 
pearance with its gothic turrets, ite church of 
St. Gallus, and high town walls. Ite population 
exceeds 2,600 souls. 

Fbudbichsfbld : equally distant from Mann- 
heim and Heidelberg, and the Junction of their 
railways. Two miles off are Swetsingen gardens. 
To the left, riring on an eminence you see th^ 
eastie of Strahlenberg, elevated above Schreias- 
heim. Travelling on we perceive HAiddhMt^ 



138 



HEIDBLBEBG— UXIVEBSirr. 



tBoQtelS 



Hbidklbbro Station : Quarter of a mile out- | the first In 1674, the second in 1898, croMeitJn 
tide the Klingel Thor. , Rhfaie, carrying fire, alaaghter, and ftmfan In 

A walk of half hour leada you tnm the lUngel ; their train. Though Heidelberg was takenai 
Thor alongthe inside of the town wall to the I burned by MeUc, 1688, it was in Uie siege «f 
oasUe, returning faito the Kazlsplata by the path • 169S, under Chanillly, that the French exerdwd 
leading downwards, and Imu^ to the railway sta- 
tion through the town. North from the great 
dinrch a street leads to tlie bridge, from wliidi 
a splendid yiew is enjoyed. 
Heidelberg.— Inns : 
Hotel Prince Charles, a oapital first dais betel, 

near the castle. 
Hotel Adler, or Eagle, a first rate house, with esc ! betrayed and entered by the -ricCorioas fiends, 

charges are moderate, and it is deserf«d|y I barbarism virtue was trampled into atoms after 



a fiendish cruelty and merciless atrocity dist is 
the annals of warCsre remains unparalleled, ibib 
bj the Reign of Terror in the Frendi Berdls* 
tion, and which to this day oauses in fhe Fsls* 
tinate the name of Frendnnen to be execrated. 
Whether by cowardice or treikChery, tihe castle to 
which the dtixois repaired for reAige, wm 



recommended. Proprietor, Mr. Ldir. 
Hotel de Hollander efuallj good. 

Hotel de la Conr de Baden. 

Heidelberg is situated at the entrance of the 
diarming valley of the Neckar, on the left bank, 
between the river and the castle rock, and con- 
tains a population of 15,200 souls, half of whom 
profess the Roman Catholic faith. The town 
itself consists of one street, extendfaig from the 
railway station to the Heilbronn-gate, a distance 
of three miles. This dtj has suffered more firom 
the horrors of war than perhaps any other in 
Europe. At one period, before the thhrty years 
war, it was the seat of splendour, of vast commer- 
eial palaces, and all the other great appendages 
characterising a prosperous commercial dty. It 
was also the residence of the Electors Palatine 
of the Rhine. War has destroyed all these 
monuments of its once great prosperity, and left 
It nothhig to boast of but the shred of its once 
proud and imperial magnificence. It has been 
five itimes bombarded, twice reduced to ashes, 
and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to 
pillage. In 1622. TiUy took the town by ftorm 
after a cruel siege and bombardment of one 
month, and gave it up for three days to his 
ruffian soldiers to pillage. He is said to have 
Uttered his cavalry with the books and manu- 
scripts from the library of the elector, one of the 
most valuable in Europe. The imperial troops 
held possession of the place for eleven years sue 



being sacrificed and debased, and the hdieit 
memorials of manhood desecrated by mifitsiy 
brutality. In this camago no memy was shewn 
the Protestants. 

The UnhenUjf to one of fhe most endent ia 
Germany, and was founded in 1386. It to firs* 
quented by 700 or 800 students, and has sent 
forth some distingutohed members of the sdioob 
of law and medicine, and can boast of tlN 
following great names :— Gmdin, inustrioas in 
natural history and dionistry; Tiedenuum, in 
anatomy; Paulus, in theology, and Blittennejcr, 
in criminal law. This palace of Uteratore served 
as a silent retreat for Crcrvinus and Scfalosser. 
As an ardiitectural structure the bu&dinf 
cannot boast of any attraction. Its library con- 
tains 120,000 volumes, independent of mann- 
scripts. Of the celebrated BtbUothica PalaHMt 
890 manuscripts, which were carried olT to 
Rome and placed in the Vatican, were restored 
ia 1816 by Pope Pius VII. The most aninent 
curiosities in the collection are a Codex of 
the Greek Anthology; of manuscripts of Ptutsrch 
and Thucydides, and many valuable autographs; 
the fbllowing works of Luther — manuscr^t 
translation of Isaiah; Exhortation to Tnyet 
i^^ainst the Turks, and a copy of the Hdddbeig 
Catechism, annotated by him, and several other 
works. Except on Sundays the library to open 
f^m2to4, daily. 

The Phpsieal and Zoological Ifusetcms are 
placed in a building, formerly a Dominican 



ceeding, when It was retaken by the Swedes, 

tmo proved BO&rcely better friends than its \ cotwcoX, A\»».\«A fav the suburbs 
imperial foes. The ambiUon of Louis XIV. \ T\i^Mv*e««^CWb,«^^^Xi. 
^ more tremenaously destructive than an. y-^^^^^^t^^^^ ^^^ 
farmer foe bad bees, and tw» French axmiea ^ xootsH^xwaxwi. 




'ra.PMwrjHiiffiBBP.i 



f.^i 



f-*J 



t^ 



i: 



m: 



m 



Sonte 28] churches or the holt orost and st. pktsb— castle. 



1B9 



The public bidldiogs and houses of this dty | ouinot fidl to attnust the tourist, beeatise of Its ' 
M we now see them, gives us but a fUnt idea of I antiquily and memorable historical tradition; 
Its formerinrandeur, and we could but distinguish ! connected with the fact of Jerome of Fn^ue^ 
one house among the entire, which might be | the companion of Huss, baring attached to Us 
fairly styled the representatlTe of former archi- ' door his celebrated thaes—Ka exposition attd^' 
tectunl eminence. It is the inn Zum Ritter^ ' defence of the reformed doctrines, triiich h»> 
situated in the Market Place, near the Church - preached upon and maintained to a multitnde of ■ 
of the Holy Ghost. Its structure dates from ' hearers aaaembled in the chivch yard. Here^ 
1692^ and it is surmounted by the statue of a | likewise we see, simple as beautiAil, the tomb (^' 
knlgh^ and in its richly decorated ikgade, oms- j that wonderAil wcnnan, OUmpia Moreta, who to 
msnted with images, heraldic derioes, &c^ may { the exalted grace and rich beauty of a womany 
ghre the tourist some idea of the character of added the intellectual greatness and learning of 
Heidelberg's architecture, in the days of her . a philosopher. Driven from her own sunny land 
ancient greatness. i where persecution followed her steps as a heretia 



The Church of the Holy Ghott.~-Jn this edifice 
are entombed the ashes of many of the electors 
and Counts Palatine of Germany. AUthemagni- 
flcent monuments formerly erected in it, were 
destroyed or mutilated by the French, in 1793. 
This church has also been the subject of a long 
contest between the Protestant and Roman 
Catholic sects, both claiming possession of it, 
for the purposes of public worship. This dispute 
was termfaiated by its behig equally divided 



she was forced to fly Italy, and together with her ' 
German husband, settled in a house at Heidelberg 
where she delivered brilliant courses of lectures 
to crowded and i^plauding audiences. As we 
look upon her grave, and recall her memory, ws 
cannot fail to be deeply interested by the recol- 
lection of her more than earthly style of beanlyg 
her misfortunes, literary acquirements, and early 
death, all of which conspire to illumine her tomb 
and sane tify her adies with a brightening halo of 



between both; and now, beneath the same roof, i peculiar interest. 

are celebrated the service of Rome, in all the ; The Castle is finely situated on a rock over. - 
grandeur of its mystic and ceremonial pomp, • looking the Neckar. and its beautifid and fertile 
and the liturgy of the Reformed Church in the ; valley. It looks an imposhig ruin, exhibiting the 



purity of its unadulterated simplicity. And 
by It a beautiAil lesson of christian charity is 
taoght to the factious contentionists, who, in the 
bitterness of their fanaticism, forget that though 
kneeling at different altars, and worshipping 
by different rites, it is but the one God they 
renerate, and that charity is the foundation of 
all religion. And it is worthy of record, that the 
]Slectoral Court was removed from Heidelberg 
to Mannheim by one of the electors, in conse- 
quence of a quarrel with the townspeople, who 
resisted his attempt to deprive the Protestants of 
this privilege, though he offered to build them 
a church of their own. Doubtless the English 
tourists will think it an extraordinary thing,— « 



twofold character of a fortress and a palace, and 
was in remote days the residence of the Electors 
Palatine. This venorable ruin so varied in its 
styles of architecture representing the tastes of 
several centuries, so highly interesting in Ae- 
combhied detaib of its history and dtequcrsd 
fortunes, and so beautiftilly attractive 1^ its 
picturesque situation, has been thrice burnt, snd 
devastated on ten occadons 1^ the honrors 
and barbarism of war, which however ^Hd not 
destroy its vastness, nor the rdics oi its 
architectural grandeur. Its ulthnaie ndn was' 
accomplished in 1764, when it was stmek hf 
lightnhig and burnt to the ground. It is nowroof- - 
lessand but a collection of red stone walls. It is 



strange tale— Catholics and Protestants worship, j approached by a steep and strong ascent, wind- 
ping in the same chivch ; and yet they will meet 
with other instances of the same kind, both in 
Germany and Switzerland; and thus from that 
land, irixere Luther translated the scriptures, 
Sntoleranise and bigotry have been banished. 
CKur^ iff St. P«t0r.-.ThIs fine old drandi | from beneath the arefawaj we yet sse prqfsellnc 



ing on the side of the Necker, and I7 a ( 
road from the rise. The Electors Bardol^h and 
Rupert are said to have been the firanders of die- 
oldest, part of the buildfaig. It still exhibits tlM 
sppesrsnce of a fortress of the feudal sfes. and 



^JZ. 



140 



tiMtoetiiofUieFDrteullik Tli« FriedilofaiiMii» 
tniU in the earlj imv t of Uio wrtnteentli oen- 
Uxrjf and probaUj named after the Elector 
Frederidi who erected it, iaridilj decorated, and 
. the ft^ade to the lonth of the inner coort 
of 4he building ia adorned with Btatneii iinialied as 
exqairitelj aa though the artiat had to work from 
Carrara marble instead of the red stone (keuper) 
of the moimtains of Germany. Thia part of 
the- building of the EUxabethan stgrle, orer- 
hanga the river, and eactends along the east side 
of the quadrangle built by Otho Henry in 1556. 
The SngUsh trairellar must be deeply interested 
by the round toww,'.in wfaieh were the apartments 
of Slisabeth of England, daughtw of James I., 
and grand daughtw of llary Queen of Scots. 
It is the most complete ruin in the vast edifice. 
Mid the ivy yet climbs over the portion of the 
mossy wall which at present remains. The wall, 
flower and the briar are in its innermost recesses, 
and the ivory turned pillars of the triumphal 
ardi, erected in honour of her marriage by her 
husband Frederidc V., Count FaUtine^ after, 
wards king of Bohemia. The garden attached 
to it was laid out for her pleasure^ and is yet 
called Elisabethen Fforte. The council room in 
which her unfortunate huift>and consulted his 
nobles about accepting the crown of Bohemia 
is still pointed out. Elisabeth remained outside 
the door in an adjoioing chamber. She de. 
mended to know the decision, and when he 
heritsted to accept the crown, ttiis ambitious 
woman ezcdaimed, ** If you reftise to be a king, 
yon are not worthy of having married the 
daughter of a king. Let me rather eat dry 
bread at a king's table than feast at the board of 
an Elector ;'* and it would appear as if the spirit 
of destiny hovered near her in the air as she 
uttered these words, and recorded them as to be 
verified in the book of human fkte, for she lived 
not only to eat, but even to b^ the bread of 
charity with her children, ** but she would be 
a queen I'* In the cellar of this castle is the 
celebrated Heidelberg Tun. Its demensions are 
86 feet by 24 feet, and it is the largest wine cask 
in the world. It is now long rince it was used, 
and longer since the merry waits went round in 
triumph on its broad summit. It is capable of 
'■"f^^w^wg 800 hogsheads, and is said never to 
AMr9bemfiUed bat <mce». It has been out of use 
MttQgetber aittoe 1799, or werj dose on a ce&turjt 



[BMtelt 

The tower oaUed l>0r fitaqmivto Ttanii^ lAfch 
served as one of the defenoes of the eaaflfl^ flwiifh 
midemiined and blown vsp by the VnoA, dU 
notfkUtoplecea^ bot Hell or slid Into the dUcfa, 
where it yet remains in a compact insaB. 

The Oiurdmt and shrubberies eomMmdiiig.fta 
oastle^ and originally pUumed by the enginev, 
Solomon de Cans, are ddightfhl In the eytnms^ 
whilst the twraoes and elevations afltard aTprielg^ 
of most interesting views. In the remoCt db> 
tance may be traced many a brllllast irfaiAiig 
of the Bhinei, sparkling like a golden atreamla 
glorious sunshine, as it is Jdned by the Neeksr 
issuing out of its vine dad vaUc^, and wIndiDg 
through a plain of the greatest flertlUty. T owifs 
and Bpbrei prodaim the haunts of busy mm fa 
nuny dties and villages lying out in repoee betas 
yojo, whilst the landscape itself is bound by the 
bosges mountains Uning the distant borieoii. 

However it te fh>m the extreme pcHaA of lbs 
terrace, projecting over the Neekar, ffaat wl 
obtain the best general view of the eaetle. M 
a view from one point would ill jrepegf the toorUs 
viflit wbon we coosideir the imposliig mag^ 
cence of the old ruins, and the grand, yet soft, 
sweet beauty of the surrounding country, The 
hdghts on the right bank of tiie Neekar, up- 
preached from the end of the bridge by a steep 
path, or firom Neuenhehn hy a more gtadnsl 
ascent, should be sscended by the tourist. The 
hiU fironting the town reached tQ^ the patfa'eaBi^ 
the PhUosopheni' WaXk will aflfbrd a good vlvv, 
as will also, in a more extensive way the JSreiHj^ 
herg, a hill between the valley of the RUne nd 
the Nedutr. This was the point choeeB If 
Tilly to open his trenches in the tiihr^yevi 
war, and on its top we see the ruins of a easfls. 

A lovely inn called Binchgasie, atandfag fifty 
yards or so above the bridge is tiie q>ot wlieeeths 
students duels are fought, sometfanee at the rats 
of four or five a day. 

The KUniggthul is the loftieft hOl hi the dfatariet 
standing to the rise of the town and castle. A 
very extensive view may be had firom its iM>i«it^ 
which may be ascended in an hour or two's walb 
or by carriage. A high tower has been ereeled 
on the spot, and the visitor would do widl to 
ascend it and enjoy the grand proq;»eet it ceai- 
mands. Beautiftil indeed is the panorama, la* 
. duding the Rhine and the Neekar, the OdenvaU 
\ sja'^Baax^X.TniorasiuiiBaQ'athAweat, the TanBH^ 



1 



8T. IIiQ13l-~BBUGBaAl/— WBDffGsABXKV* 



Iha ridge of the BlaokForert, fhe Castle of 
Ebentain, and tbe apiE» of Stnwbuig Gatbedral 
Binetgr miles distant. The son xisiiig as witnessed 
from this hiU Je deddedjj magnifloant, convey- 
Ing to the speotator an exhibition of celestial 
grandear well worth contemplation. Never 
can he forget .the golden ooean, irradiated .by 
thousands of spiral shades of stariike briUianey 
from which the monarch of the day emerges on 
wings of fire iUumining up^ the entire extent of 
his eastern ssrrltorios.- Persons snxions to wit* 
neasthisgierious spectacle ahoHld pais the pre. 
Tio«s liight at the • tarn • near the top called 
Kohlbof.- --' 

Above Heidelberg the banks of the Neckar 
afTord ami^ delightAil excorsiens; the one to 
NeCkar-gemSnd aix miles off; firom whence the 
tourist may prolong hiaroate to Neokar-Bteinaeli 
(Inn Die Uarfe.)- Two miles from the castle 
and approached by a road overhanging the 
Neckar, is seen the Wolfs well, a pretty sechided 
spet. ■ Here the enchantress Jetta who first fore- 
told the greatness of the house of the Counts, of 
the FalatinatCy was torn In pieces by a wolf. 
Close by is a good inn, celebrated for . its trout 
vid beer. The road along the margin of the 
rood leads hence to Heidelberg, Two miles on 
the road to Darmstadt we meet with the little 
village of Hamkdiufasheim on the Bergstraase, 
where there is a fkmous collection of Mexican 
H^qoities. Dossenhdm, two miles from this 
last village, is frmous for its cherries. 

On the right bank of the Neckar we see 
Nenenhebn, a small village. Opposite^ ca the 
laihn^ station, 'is- a house in wbieh. Luther 
lodged on his way to Heidelberg, in 1618. 
Droifcies can be hired for oxonrskms through 
the town and suburbs. 

.BihdlgentoHeflbronninT hours; to Stnttgard 
In la hours; and to Wunbnrg in 16 hours Daily. 
Railways to Mannheim, stopping at Frledricha- 
fold, the jtmction of the Frankfort and Darm- 
stadt railway. The Baden raUway, Beideiberg 
to Stl% branches to Baden-Baden and EJehl 
(opposite Strasburg,) trains to Carlsruhe in 1| 
hours; Baden 8 hours; KehlShours; to Frei- 
burg in 7 -hours; to Haltrhigen, 4 miles from 
Bil^ in 9 hours. Tourists wQl find the 2nd 
class carriages comfortable and respectable. 
SteuabosOa oa the Neckar to HdlbrQB» Ilk 
orJ4houa, dmomdingln 7 or 8. 



141 



8t. iLomr Station— Quitting this station, the 
raDroad is carried through a flat plain, bounded 
eastwards by a range of hills, and the oonntry 
through which it passes south- of Hddelberg fam 
none of the beauty of the Bergstrasse* ■ 

WmsLooH Station: here Is a mineral qnriog 
and a state prison called Kisslaay formerly, a dn- 

cal palace. 

J4A]ias!raBtTCKKir Station: (Inn: Post) Aamall 
place with 1,800 tehsMtants. The mimml 
q^rings here range in temperature between fit?, 
and 60^ Fahrenheit, and are strongly impregna- 
ted with sulphuretted hydrogen gas and snlphnrjii 
The sulphur baths are wdl oonstruoted. Thar* 
ia a table d'hdte and musio. 

Bbucwsat.,— Inns i 
Poste. 

BradisclMV Hof. 
ZabriogerHoC 

Has a population of 7,600, and was finmsrij 
the residenoe and pnq^erty of the prinee-Udisps 
of Spires. It chief curiosities are the ^pisoopal 
palace near the gate leading to VnialkfyKt, and 
the church of St Peter, with the tombs of th« 
last bishops.. Travellers for Munich and tta 
Tyrol leave the railway here. Bailwaj from 
Bruschal to Ludwigsburg in progress. The Mnt 
from Bruschal to Stuttgart is joined at DlangfiO 
by the line from Carkome to Stuttgart 
UxTBaeBoioucH Station. 
WxnroABTBi Station.— A beatiftil village^ wiU^ 
ap<^ulation of 3,000 souls, where we yet see tiht 
ruins of the castle of the lords of Schmalan- 
stejn. Not fiur from this village Ilea the andanf 
SchloU'Bueklf or tiie place where justiee vm 
publidy administered in the middle ages. . 

DuBLACH Station, with a population of 6,jMfi^ 
vras once the capital of Baden-Duriacb, ami 
the residMAce of the Margraves of that brandy 
of the reigning iSunily since 1771, when the 
Baden-Baden line became extinct. 

In the palace gardens are many Roman an* 
tiquitieB, such as altars,, milestones, oblitarated 
bas-reliefs. The ruins of the palaoe or chfitna 
is now used as a cavalry bsrracks. 
Silwagen from here to Wiidbad in 6 hours* 

Pairing QomsAU to the risht^ a ciu^l* ^^L 
tot wisat^«rj vA ^bwBxi 



»\ 



142 



Carisrahe SUdon— Inm. 

Hotel du Frtnoe Her«dltairt^ flnt-»Bto Mid 
Meommended. 

Golden CroM, a reesoneble, good bonM 
Ee CariBmhe alio we find ezoeDent batlM. 
Carionhe^ the oeirftal <tf the grend-dnohy of 
Baden and the seat of gOTermnent and chamhere, 
Uei 1^ leegaes from the Bhhie in the HaaifiodUd, 
or hart foreet, which honnde the town on the 
north and west. In 1716 a hontfaig-aeat wai 
hnflt on the Bpot hy the Margrare Charki of 
Baden, and to this fortoitoos drcnnutaooe we 
may aecribe the existence of the town, now one 
of the finest in Germany, and containing a popu- 
lation of 23,000 inhabitants. The streets are 
regular, broad, and light ; some of them afford 
a proqieot of tiie neighbouring mountains, 
whilst others form a pleasant ar<diitectural pic- 
ture. The r^idly flourishing state of the town 
may be dated from the time when the margra- 
Tiate was raised to an doctorate, and afterwards 
to a grand-duehy. It te built in the shape of a 
fkn or wheel, with all the streets oonrer^g at 
the castle, which forms a centre. The generality 
of the buildings that adorn the dly, were 
founded by the late Weinbrenner and ikmold, 
director of buildings. An aqueduct conveys 
water through iron pipeS from Durlach to 
Carlsruhe, and the streets are provided with 
trolers or fountains, serving as ornaments whilst 
of great convenience. 

Leaving the railway station, the tourist enters 
Carisrahe by the Etcingen gate, and sees the 
monuments of the grand duke Karl, who died in 
1818; of Lewis, who died in 1830; and of the 
liargrave Charles William, founder of Carisrahe, 
as he pisses through the street leading to the 
palaoe, the former a bust, and the two latter a 
itatne and a pyramid, are situated in the maricet 
plaoe, on the east of which we see the proteatant 
ohurch, and the Rathaut on the west. 

The Paiae$ is a building presenting no veiy 
remarkableappearanee. From its toww frondng 
the centre er all the town bnlidinga, you have a 
rich and extensive prospect : frt>m it you can 
distinctly trace the roads into the Haardt forest, 
eonespondfaig with the streets. The Rhine, and 
begrood it the Vosges mountains in France, the 
numatMins of the Scbwarxwald on the soutlw 
Mad tbaam ot the Btrgrtruae on the noxUi; ^ 



riUmtelB 

theee^ with the vast and eidthnittd piaiM witldB 
the moontatai frameworl^ form a pictnra well 
worth oarrying away in the menoocy of those 
bidding adieu to Germany. Attadied to the 
palace there is a theatre, op«i three timea a-week. 
In the oourt-yard b a statue by 8diwaiithaler« 
of the Duke Karl Frederi<^ who died in 1811. 

The Pdlaee Oatden is a Itaie plantatioa, whld% 
on one fide is contiguous to a pheasant prceein^ 
and on the other to tibe botanical garden. The 
garden called Amallensruhe^ named altar tiM 
deceased Margravine AmaUaa oontafaia ■ome 
very agreeable walks and Is opta to the poblle. 

AcadenUe Qeb&ude Is a very fine ImUdta^ 
erected by Hiibsch, in 1843. It is oomtniotad «f 
grey sandstone, striped with red lines^ and oraa- 
nented with frescos by Sdiwind. It oontalni a 
gallery of pahitings, among wliich b a portnit of 
Colbert, some Dutdi paintingi^ and a medallbn 
portrait of Newton, by De Witte. 

The Jfii«0Mm, to the right of the palae^ ta 
rich in fossil remains, &0., among them b tiie 
skeleton of a mammoth, dug up at Oca. The 
museum b abo called the dub, and Gennan^ 
French, and Englbh papers are tMkeax In. 

In the town b a very fine library, oontatnfaig 
upwards of 90,000 volumes. 

The Hotpiud b near the Muhlberg gate, and 
was founded and endowed with a sum of 1 OO,00Qfl. 
by the celebrated tailor, Stults, who was created 
a baron. In the Friedhof b pointed oat the 
grave of Jung Stilling, who died in 1817, fai 
Carisrahe. 

Eilinigen to Stuttgart, twice daily in 7} hooifli 
to Zwdbradcen In 11^; to Landau In S|; and to 
Porsheim in 3 hours. 

Quitting the bet station, at the dbtanoo of 
two miles, we see frt>m the ndlroad on the rights 
Bulaoh, where there b a modern dmrcli, baDl 
in the Roman style by Hiibsch, in 1888. Ita la* 
terior b ornamented with ftvecos by Dietreoha 
of Stuttgart. 

Ettuvokk Station, lies at the opening of 
the Albdal, and contains a pqpnlatlon of <00t. 
Here there are still extant, ten Roman mono* 
ments and the remains of Roman hatha. Ontiie 
Alban a large number of p^er mUla. 

BiALSCH Station. 

MuaoBHSTuaic Station.— Omnlhnaea to Oma^ 
bach. 

TYm Aaidics «t Badfln«!nto which we now maim 



Boute 28] 



BASTADT— OOS-HIAS8BACH. 



148 



is one of the riobett districts in Oemumy, and 
the nflroad in its course passes through a 
country inroduefng tobacco, hemp, flax, hops, 
aud maize. Vineyards cover the sloping Ulls, 
and large walnut trees shade the road, wUdi in 
their luxuriance pr<»nise large supplies of oU, 
&o. And as the trareller proceeds, he cannot 
help being amused at the appearance of the 
flurmers with their l<»ig dark coats, red waist- 
coats, and large three-cornered hati^ the broad 
flaps of which are looped up behind, ghring the 
wearer the ^^earanoe of a Greenwich pen- 
sioner. 

Sastadt Station.— Lum : 
Badisdier Hof. 
Goldenes Kreuts. 

This regularly buiH town, the late residence 
of the Margraves of Baden-Baden, is situated 
on the Murg, and has a population of 6,680. Its 
large palace of red sandstone, buUt by the Mar- 
gravine SybUla Augusta, wife of Louis William, 
is now uninhabited, and presents a decayed and 
deserted i^pearance. In the apartments of the 
palace we behold several trophies, whidi he 
brought with him on bis return flrom the war 
against the Turks. It is also remarlcable as having 
been the place where several European congresses 
were held. The small cabinet is still pointed 
out in which Prince Eugene aud fiCarshall VU- 
Iws signed the treaty of peace in 1814. Another 
treaty was signed here in 1797>99, but it was 
never carried into effect in consequence of the 
fbul assassination of the Fk«nch deputies^ 
Bob^t and Bonnier A monument is erected 
to their memory outside the Rbeinan gate, on 
the spot ^ere they were murdered. The pic- 
ture gallery of the palace contains some remark- 
aUe trophies of warfkre, and portraits ot some 
Circassian slaves, taken captive by the Margrave 
Louis, hot several valuable antiquities were 
stolen teom it in 1849, when Radstadt was taken 
poisession of by 8,000 revolutionary scamps, 
consisting of escaped convicts, disgraced soldiers, 
&C., who did not evacuate the town untllJuly in 
that year. 

The railway quitting the last station, crosses 
the Murg at a spot half-a-mile firom which we 
see flie mined and deserted old diftteau called 
the Favourite, 6 miles from Baden. ThediHtean 
Is only remarkaUe as being a specimen of the 
•tyle of former days, and of the tastes of Ha 



founder, SybUla, who ended her days witUn ttt 
walls. Her youth was a scene of levi^ and valA . 
self glory, and her old age a picture ot super* 
stition and bigotry, the former led her to lacerate 
her body, and we still see the gloomy oratorx 
^ere she lingered out the last few days of her 
ezistaice, and the sharp scourge of wfare string 
with wUdi she lacerated her miserable fram*. 
A hair shirt her inside garment, a rash mat her 
bed, her kneeling stool a circular piece of pointed 
wire^ her only companions in her prison ehi^ 
were two wooden flguree of the vtr^ and St. 
John, with these die s«s at table and 
divided her meat into three equal pordons, mM 
tot herseU^ and two fbr the wooden statoea^ 
wUch, as of course they did not eat, die con- 
siderately gave to the poor. 

Oos 8tation.^From here there is a brandiHiie 
to Baden, 3 miles distant. Crossing the Oos after 
quitting the last station, the railroad proceeds oa 
to Sinzhelm station, and shortly after arrives at 
Steinbach station, a small place situated at tiht 
foot of the hill of Tburg, and remarkable as being 
the natal spot of the architect of Strasburg 
cathedral. 

Buhl Station.— (Inn : Post.) Arrlvfaig from 
here at the next station of Ot te rsw eir , on the east 
opening up before us, lies the valley of Hub, 
enclosing the ruined castle of Wendeck and the 
Hubbad. 

AcnBBK Station A small vfflage that somf 

few years shice acquired the privileges of a town. 
It has a population of 3,000 inhabitants. Two 
miles below Achem, on the left, Is 

8ASSBA0H, with 1,200 souls. To the right o» 
the post-road and left of the raOway, Just outald* 
the village, we see the monument a granite 
stone obelidE ertcied to the memory of General 
Turenne by the Frendi, on the spot where he 
waA kUIed by a cannon ball, as he was recon* 
noitring the Anstran army. The present is the 
fourth monument erected, the ofliers having 
been destroyed. Much conftnkm was occasioned 
in the French ranks by this general's death, and 
the troops, dlignsted by want of success and in* 
action, exdaimed in irony— Ltehes la pie elle 
nous conduira:^ in allusion to the general's 
piebald charger, which had so frequently led 
them to victory. Behind Achem and Sassbacih, 
the HonU$8ffruende mountain fgratosL^ak ^^a^ ^sn^'^ 



1 



144 



AFPEinrSEBf— OnOlB BOBOUOB-HEOXCaii. 



■hun, tad t ur ro u ndad with awftd eniiroiis U« 
tlM Mvmd996t a lake mifathomable in Its deptb. 

Tlie mini of the Abbey of Allerheiligeii, or 
All Safaita, baraed in 1003, otn be Tisited by Ober- 
Adiom, Cappd, and Ottenhofen. The content 
Um in a dreadftil wfldemesB, in a central vallqrf 
cnehwed by the rocki of the Kniebis. LeaTing 
the lait ttatioo, the railroad croiainff tiie Rendi, 
irtiidi deseenda firom the Kniebis^ arriroi at 

BsHOBKH Station, a fine martcet town, with a 
population of 2,600 inhabitants, once of oootider- 
able importance. 

Appuiwkxb Station— From this point a raU. 
way branches off on the right to Kehl, Stras- 
Inirg, distant 9^ miles. Tourists for Strasbnrg, 
and who intend proceeding thence to Swttser- 
land, through Freiburg or SchafDi«iinn, will do 
the best thing to proceed on to Offenbnrg, irtiere 
the baggage might be left at the fam opposite the 
•tation, and return thence to Strasburg. 

The road takes you firom Appenwelr, across 
the Kniebis, whidi is 3000 fset high, to Freaeden- 
■tadt, and to Stutgart, 89 miles by Oberidrob, 
a pleasant little town, with 1900 faihabitants, at 
the entrance of the valley; above iriiidi are 
seen the ruins of Allenburg, and 2 miles from 
which, up in the vall^, is Lftuterbadi, wHh its 
fine old gothio churdi, built to 1471, and well 
worth a visit; on by Oppen, where is an inn 
(Krone), where refreshments and wines are 
supplied. An EUwagen ttom. Aiq[>enweir to Rip- 
poldsau, in six hours, the last frontier of 
Baden, on this road. 

From the railroad, on our way to Offenbuig 
from the last station, we see to the right, the 
spire of Strasbnrg Biinster, and to the left the 
Castle of Stanfenberg, a building of the 11th 
Cttitmy, whidi aflbrds an excellent view. 

OFFBiTBuao Station.->(Inns, Post: Fortuna, 
Krone) lies on the Kinzig, and was founded 
by Offo whence It derived its name. 

Offo's BomoROR.— nils town, by its dte, com- 
mands the entrance of the valley of the Kinxig. 
It has a population of 3692 souh. The town has 
a eheerfrd and sociable i4>pearance, and tiie post 
road from Frankfort on the Maine to Baden, and 
into the valley of the BUnzig from Strasburg, 12 
miles off, cross each other. Two miles distant 
Is the Castle of Ortenburg, builfc at a cost of 
J(5i^ AM( Ity a JSnssfan nobleman. 
X«anCD|f the Otteabms Stationi fhA nilwi^ 



[BoatoM 



the Kinzig, and anives at in«d«iu8clMp< 
fheim Station, where there ara glass wosfti 
estabUshed on the Eng&li plan. The lire li 
oovered, and the workmen ^rs expoaed very Bttli 
to the heat. 

Frxbsexhxim Station. — A small town eootaiiii 
ing a population of 2000 souls^ but no ways ia 
terestfaig. 

DdOLUfOKff Station— (Inn, Foet)a smaE pka 
with 1000 inhabitants. From here a rbad taks 
you to Lahr, 1^ mUe eastwards^ a small but ia 
dnstrious town, rituated on the Schntter, with i 
population of 7000 inhabitants. In this plaes an 
a great many stuff and doth maaufkotories^ aai 
mtn» tobacco works. The LudwigsBtrasse^ a 
Leevis road, connects this town with the taB^ 
of the BUnzig. 

The outline of the Vosges Mountains are ffii 
oemed lying west, boyond the Rhine, and them 
stone diini of the Blade Forest on the east 
whUstonasteephillweseethe ruins of Scbki 
Hohengeroldsedc 

KxpFCNHBDE Station.— A small vUlaga si^ 
remarkable for its cast iron monnxnent to tia 
memoiy of Baron Stultz, the tailor. 

Orschweibb Station. — Not fiur ttoia here th 
railroad crosses the Ettenbach. A little to it 
east of the Une we see Ettenheim. Its cnstdi 
house is the place to which the unftnrtunsi 
Duke d'Enghien was dragged, and pe rmitt ed I 
dress himself, whence he was carried to Kqipc 
and thence across the Rhine to France, vriia 
he was diot six days after, by orders of thai k 
human butcher Ni^oleon, at VincennesL Tl 
town itself has a handsome <dMirdi» and i 
environs are very fertile. 

HnBRBOLZHxnc Station. 

KiDiznrexH 8tati<m» — (IunLa<^). Thekfie 
of angling will find good amusement «o tl 
river here^ safanon and trout being abonte 
and excdlent. 

RixoBL Station.— On quitting this station, tl 
railroad has to make a considerable bend to t 
east, passing between the Kaiserstohl and Bla 
Forest range ; the former a fertile and thid 
populated, volcanised range of hills, rising out 
the plidn of the Rhine. In the remote dtataa 
we can dearly discon the tops of the BaHdM 
and Blauen. 

EMMKifoixaxir Station.-^ A smalltown dtosl 
\ oal^'&XsaiiBAlSnNMBis^inaohwminf oooM; 



BonteSS] 



FBEXBUBO— rHXVSBSmr— KAUVHAU8. 



14S 



To the lefl^ bqrond the town, yoa behold on a 
tnonntahi the nifais of the CasUe o/ Hoddbmg 
the most extendre in Gennany, after HeidettMrg. 
Without the laburbe we see a large paper mill, 
exclusiyely employed in making coloured pi^>er 
§or the tobaooe and chicory manufiMstorlee at 
Uhr, 

DsmuiroEir 8tatiion.^The largest TiUage of 
Che Grand Duchy, witha rery pretty churdi, and 
veU worth a view. 

Before reaching Freiburg, and about 3 miles 
north firom the dty, we see on the toft the ruined 
easUe of the Counts of Zaliringen, from whom 
the reigning house of Baden takes its origin. A 
inagniflo0Bt view may be had from the ruins^ over 
tiio Breimau, formerly an Austrian possession, 
but since 1805 annexed to Baden. 



Freibarg In Brle8gaii»*liiiit: 

2abringer Hof ; very good; the nMfMt to the 
Cathedral and BaUway station. 

. This, the old capital of the Brelsgau lies at the 
extremity of the chain of mountains of the 
Blad^ Forest; which extends behind it to the 
left and right. Eastwards of h is the Dreitaan, 
which bursts out of the HoUenthal or Infernal 
vall^ is flowing by. Freiburg was founded in 
1118^ hy Berthold UL of Zahringen, who con. 
f erred upon it rery impoitant priidleges. Its 
population numbers about 16^200^ and its chief 
olfyects of attraction are the 

Ukuter, one of the handsomest and meet 
perfectly finished of Oerman edifices, built of 
red sandstone, in a Cruciform shape, and 
ornamented with airy stone traoery. It was 
fSmmded between the years 1122 and 1152^ by 
Duke CenKad of Zahringen, and ow^ its ex. 
istmce not more to the munificence of the 
princes of his line than to the spirited 
liberality of the inhabitants of the dty, who 
generously and lealously lUmished supplies to 
carry on and complete the work. It is probable 
that it was completed under Conrad I., in 1152. 
The west fr<mt, the porch beneath it, and nave 
date firom 1236-72. The tower rises firom a 
square base into an octagon, which is surmounted 
by a pyramidal q;>ire of the most exquisite open 
iQOilFofgrMtboldiMifiuidUghtmw. tt is 880 



feet high, and many preAsr it to the torn ai 
the Stmsburg cathedraL The prbidpal entrance 
is through the beautifully ornamented and VMm 
quisitely sculptured portal beneath the tower. 
The Deity is sculptured on the portal nortl^ 
leading firom the choir, in the form of an. old 
man, breathing life into the nostrils of our first 
parent, and creating the solar qrstem. Theprind* 
pel obJeoH worth seeing in the interior are the 
sUtue of Berthold V.; last Duke of Zibringen, 
(1228), and the stone statues of the other JSSh* 
ringens^ a painting of the Lord's Siq^per, made 
up of thirteen figures, by liauser, (1561), th« 
Altar Fieoe^ by Grien, a master-piece of the 
German sdiooL Some exquisitely painted win- 
dows. On the north of the dioir, in the diapel 
of St. Martin, is a very fine wood earring of the 
Virgin, representing her in the act of shdtering 
a host of Fppes, Cardhials, Bishops Priests^ and 
Layacs under a mantle. A silTcr Crudfii: of 
Eastern workmanship is to be seen in Broddin's 
ChH>6L together with his ornamental efllgies in 
armour. A magnificently carred Pnl^t, (1661), 
and the Bishop's Throne, (1861) are worth 
notice. In the University Chapel are two good 
paintings, by Holbein, a Natirity and an Adonu 
tion of the Magi. 

The Ufdventty, established in 1454, is the 
Roman Catholic seminary of the Grand Dudiy 
ofFrdburg. Hdddberg is Protestant; It has a 
Toluminous library, a cabinet of natural ciiri. 
odties^ a fine collection of physical instruments, 
and a botanical gardens. 

The ProCeftonl C^ureft, a modem st nwtu f 
of high and elegant dimensions, buUt in the 
Bysantine stg^e, is surmounted with an octagon 
tower, which formerly surmounted an dd con- 
vent at Thennebadi, fifteen mUes off, and iriiich 
was remoTcd stone by stone and made to resume 
its origfaial shape <m this church. It Is sitaaied 
dose to the gate leading to Frankfiart. 

The Kcn^hoMt rests on pointed arehei^ and ii 
a q>ecimen of the Gothic style of the sixteenth 
century. Gilt firesco pahitad portraits of the 
Emperor MaTJmillian, his son FhlUp L, send 
Charles V. ornament its interior jmd exterior, 
and the gothic portal under the aroade Is remaik- 
able for its beautifiil arrangement. The tourlsl 
wUlbehitereetedbythe gotUo foimtabi in ttm 
street. The environs of FrettHirf ahooad la 
pla4Mite1ilMMS&«BnaBAi»h« ^1?o» 



146 



AJJt BBEUACH— HITLBEIH— BAmNOrar. 



[fieolett 



▼cnleiit spots tram which a good Tiew of the { 
town can be obtained is the S^lot^berg (castle 
LiU) where formerly stood the dtadd. Beauti- i 
ftdly grand and picturesquely deUghtftil is the j 
■oene as the ^e ranges over the sleeping Tale of 
the Drdsam, terminated by the waving profile 
of the liills of the black forest as they rise one 
abore the other, ddineating at a distanoe the 
benches of a Grecian amphitheatre. 

The principal walks are to QuenthsnthaU 
rituated iu a pleasant valley, to the Carthusian 
Monastery, in a wUd and romantic district to the 
hermitage of the St. Barbara, and to the Othlun- | 
berg, &C. Travellers declining to pass through j 
the Uollenthal, or Valley of Hell, on their route ! 
to Switserland, should take an excursion flrom 
Freiburg to Steig, 11 miles off, to explore its 
beauties. Its scenery, combining ragged and 
savage grandeur, with soft and picturesque 
brillianoy, wiH be found described at page 16ft, 

EOwagen to SdiaflThausenin 11 hours, to Con- 
stance in 18 hours, to Alt Breisaofa in 2^ hours^ 
and thence to Colmar Railway Station. 

Alt Bbsisaoh is situated on the right bank of 
the Rhine, 16 English miles west of Freiburg. 
It was once one of the strongest fortresses in 
Germany, but was destroyed in 1744, and is now 
a decayed town. This place was originally situ- 
ated on the left bank of the river, but by a change 
in the course of the latter, became transferred 
to the right. It was prol)ably founded by Dineus. 
The mount is a compositimi of basalt. On its 
summit is the Church of St. Bt^hen, where the 
bones of the martyrs, Gervasius and Frotasius, 
rest insilver coffins, having been brought together 
in the reign of Fredetidc with the red beard. The 
wooden earrings of the High Altar, or Altar 
Screens,, are well worth inspection. The prob- 7 
pect firom this spot where the fort formerly stood | 
is very beautiAiL Tou overlook the volcanic j 
Kaiseritfuhl, or imperial chair, the pine woods of 
the Black Forest, tbe blue mountains of the ' 
Alsace, which lie opposite, and the old Briesach i 
<jt your feet. In a southern direction we see ; 



Mount Eggard, on which formerly stood the | 
dtadel, and which is now ornamented with a i 
monument In honour of Charles Frederick, i 
Archduke of Baden. An interesting excursion j 
eao be made to the Eataeretuhl, the aunmdt oC \ 
wfilsb offen to the the tourist the most veric^&Ud 
KlewB of Bminmciee, ot vineyards and gaxdenns, 



of forests and villagas. Its Ugliecf point bsiii 
vated 1,763 feet above the level of the aea. 

Baden Railway Freiberg to Halfinfni Is 

two hours. 

SoHALLBTADT Station. 

KaonuroBN Station, an inqxirtant ^ol^ Ort 
BO early as the sixth century gave a name t * 
noble fiunily, and is situated In a fertile eountiy. 
To tlie right of the road, okwe bj^ are themiBi 
of Stanfenbnrg Castle. 

HsLTsssHxnK Station. Here fonneriif vH 
tbe residence of tbe grand prior of the ordtr sf 
Maltha. 

MuLHxm Station (Inn: Krone). A aoil 
town, beautifolly stfeaated in n ehamdnf viDqi 
sheltered on one side by the huge ^la«eii| mi 
enclosed by vineyards on the other. 

Tlie village and battis of Badenweiler faaltiistei 
three miles east of the railway. The village ewes 
its name to its wells, and is remarkable on aooooet 
of the Roman bath discovered there in 178I* It 
was 322 feet long, by 100 feet broad. It iiiinrfHiJ 
of cold and hot steam, spring ateam batlM^ wait* 
ing places, porticoes, anointing rooms^ fta 
The masonry is covered with polished oemenii 
the greater part of wUdi is painted red. An 
altar which remains provei^ by an intoriptio^ 
that these batlis were devoted to IHana Abmdbe, 
On the Rebenhag an excellent wine la grown* 
Excursions can be made tp the amnmit of ths 
Blauen Mountains, 3,600 feet high, 6 miu^ dUtnd, 
and to the castie of Biirglen, equally distsak 

Three miles west of Mulheina la NeneidiiBg 
wher^ ir 1639, Bernard, Duke of Saxe Wefans^ 
was poisofied 1^ Richelieu; and to the nwfr 
east is Sulxburg, where SchSpflIn, ther^bmn 
was born. 

ScHLZEffOKif Station.— 'A market to>wn, re- 
markable as being the spot, xdiere, in the autnmn 
of 1796, a battle was fought betweok the Arch* 
duke Charles and Morean. To the right Usi 
Liel, a village with iron mines, and Anggco, 
famous for its excellent wines. Leaving the hrt 
station, the railway bends its course towaiA ths 
Rhine, now encroached on by hills. 

EFRnroKN Station. 

HATrnrGEir Station — From here omnibnssi 
take the passengers on to Basle. Hattlngen ii 
towt TD^iXfea ttotd '&«&V&. 'When finished, the raO> 



\ 






Route W] 



0ABXJntl7B&— 4ADiar*BADEBr. 



147 



icerland irlll And the examination of baggage a 

very searehing and exact one. 

' Omnilrasee from Baale one hour befixre the 

atarting of the trafaia. 
Basle.— (See Handbook for Switaerland). 

RoiTTB 29. 
Carlsrahe (Oos) to Baden-BadeD* 

Distance, three English mla. This te a brandk 

line leading off from the Oos at atlon, aa remarked 

in preceding route, page 143. Not far from Oos the 

Taliey contracts, and begins to l>e endosed Iqr hi Is 

on either side. On the summit of a fiir hill we see 

the old castleof Baden en the left, and the hill of 

Yburg surmounted by another eastle on the right. 

Baden-BadeB.— Hotels : 

Hotel du Rbin, dean and oomfortable. 

Hotel de Rusde, everything good, dean, and 

comfortable; landlord, Mr. Jung. 

The Hotel de Hollande, near the Kursaal, tables 

d'bdte at 1 and 6 p.m. Proprietors, Mesanu 

Zachroann and A. Roeader. 

Victoria Hotel, very good and highly spoken tt,t 
landlord, Mr. Grasholz. 

Hotels de L'Angletmre and de L'Europeare 

very noisy and extravagantly dear. 
Besides the above, there are many other private 
lodgings, in which good rooms may be got at 
various prices, from 3 fl. to 13 or 16 fl. per week. 
Baths are charged for, each, 8^ kr., bed, 48 kr. to 
1 fl. per night, and breakfast 36 kr. At all the 
principal inns tables d'hdte will be found at 10 
p.m. and 5 p.m. Charges at former hour 48 kr. 
to 1 fl., and at latter hour 1 fl. 12oi 13 kr. Private 
d nner, at any hour, in the Conversationsiiaus, 
charge, 5 fri. The Affenthaln, Klingelberger, and 
Muckgrafler are the best wines. A private dinner 
in a separate apartment, 6 fl. A tariff fixed by go- 
vernment regulates the price of every artide, &o 
Baden, dvitas aurelia aquenti$y and the resi- 
dence of the Margraves of Baden for nearly six 
centuries, lies in a charming valley, on the little 
stream Oos, which formerly formed the borders 
of the duchy of Alomanniaand Rhenish Franda 
It has 6,000 inhabitants, and is partly built on the 
declivity of one of the hills among which it is 
embosomed. The mountains surrounding it, of 
which Stanfen or Mount Mercury is the highest, 
are mostly covered with needle or brush wood, 
whilst the forehills are partly covered with oak 
and beech trees, and partfy with vines or com. 
Tb0 raUejOihey coofbts of dunning 



dowB, the light green verdure of which eontraata 
deeply and beantifaDy with the dark fir trees that 
cover the mnrounding hills. In the evening at 
sunset the view is most magnificent. This excd- 
lent site of the town is added to by the mild 
dimate, inasmuch aa the neighbouring monntaina 
chedcthe influx of the north-east winds, whilst the 
hot wella concealed in the bosom of the earth 
warm the soil. Baden was founded in the second 
oentury after the Christian era, and was the 
capital of the decumaticfidds, and highly favonred 
by Rome's aureUan emperors. In 1689 the town 
waa burned down by the Frmch, like many other 
towns in the Middle Rhine^ iriien the residMMse 
of the Margravea was removed to Rasdtadt, in 
the flat plafai of the Rhine. To-day there ia a 
vOla of the Grand Duke there, whidi he viaita at 
intervals, and reddea at his oaatle of Eberatefn 
hi the summer. Baden Baden is one of the 
most frequented watering places in Eorope^ 
and ia oonddered by ftr the most beamti- 
fiil of the baths of Northern Germany, even 
superior to the Brunnen of Nassau. The cde- 
brated wells amount to thirteen; they differ in 
warmth and the quantity of solids from 54* 
Rdanm or 460^** Fahrenhdt, down to 37^* 
Il^aum or I16i* Fahrenheit The principal 
spring for quanti^ or warmth is the Ursprung. 
It rises firom a ^Ilt rock near the tiall, and yields 
every twenty-foxur hours 7,345,440 cubic inches of 
water; and that it was known to and used 
by the Romans appears from the remains of 
Roman masonry found here. Another well of 
60* Reaum or 144}° Fahrenheit springs within 
a few yards to the left. It is used for scalding 
poultry, and on that account called the Bmehl- 
runnen,orscaIdhigweIl. Within a small distance 
of this issues the Hoellenquell (infernal weU)» 
and most of the other springs. This part of the 
town is called Holle— Hdl, on account of its 
heat, and in cold weather snow never rests upon 
it, nor does any change of weather produce any 
alteration in the temperature of the springs. 
Pipes convey the water firom them through the 
town to supply the various establishmenta. A 
kind of temple is raised over the chief spring, and 
in it are to be seen some Roman antiquitiea 
found in and near Baden, such aa votive taJblAt& 



wYiosiCT**"^^'^'**'''^'^^'^'''^^*'^**^'^ 



j(:^<«3^8ai.^»^ 



«Cta9^«BflAB%« 



\xi.\'w:\>\«o»aa''*«^'''*^ 



MH 



FBOMnrADB— BKrAURAarP-^ABIBR CBUBCK. 



I 



■ I 



fbtr«aiftMorvi9oarlMtt»vertdlMov«red. A 
Und at euMi toa&neMl th* wster to s nlkter- 
nMOW dumbtr 40 feet looir Md 30 feet broad, 
•nd from tUf • largo nnmbtr of pipti coiiYqrod 
Iho Tiponr to 0io bothtaiff rooa. 

Tho Netu TrbHAatte, or pomp room, a hall of 
drink, is prottOj litiiatod oppoilte tho Urspmnf , 
on the pabUo walks. The •npentmcture te a 
doiifn by Hubeeh, and is oertabily a rery pretty 
bvUdtaig. It Is formed bj a long colonnade, and 
Is ornamented iHth f our ftvscoes. It offers a 
deUghtftil Tiew of tho southern mountains. 
Pipes ooDTf 7 the hot water from the sonroe, and 
goafs wbey, &e. are sold. Visitors anemble to 
drink the waters at between 6^ to 7^ a.m., during 
whidi a band plays for their amusement. July 
and August are the leason when the greatest 
mmber of Tidtors are at the baths. 



Bsris; and hi tho tveoing aft« 
spaeeis filled with chairs, and 

by fiihlniiwhU kmngfa^ ■Ijpiwi y 

aadsmoUng. 



[Boilte! 

thoentl 
oocnpl 



The visitor will bo 
•orronnding the 
tables, where the stakea 
and iocfoase as night 



attraeCed by the mm 

and roulel 

piayod fiw aco has; 



The Promenade and ConvenaUenMhaui, 
dtnated on the left bank of the Oosbaeh. Shady 
grarel walks inteneet each other In all directions, 
and there are many spots affording rich and 
cbarming prospects. The Conversation8haus,or 
house intended for vMtors to sit and converse in, 
lies in the back ground of a Urge green, bordei«d 
on either side by handsome cbesnut trees. In 
the centre of the building rises the hall for con- 
rersation. It te 40 feet high, 126 long, and 87 
fBet broad, and Is richly and tastefully deco- 
rated. Adjoining it are large rooms, for the 
accommodation of sudias wish to refresh them- 
selves and plav. The gaming rooms are open 
from 11 in the morning until 11 at night. 

There is also an excellent gratuitous reading, 
room and Library, in the Conversation Houie, 
and another one belonging to Mr. Marx, to which 
^idtors can subieribe. In the left wing, opposite 
the theatre, is a 

EetUiurant, where dinners, ftc can be pro. 
cured. This buildfaig has also attached to it the 
library and reading rooms, where English and 
French papers arc to bo fDund. Visitors will 
have to subscribe for any length of time th^ 



During the last year M many at 60,600 penoi 
visited Baden.Baden,and tbe number of En^ 
visitors was so huge that the pUtee assiiiiiw tl 
appearance of a ■etflement of omr oonntfyna 
From May to October, there la* iiiff fcaii 
visitors flrom all parts of the world, who rorsli 
all the hixuries of a eapital comUnod with ll 
advantages of deHghtfrri walks, among the wooi 
and valley^ forests and hllls^ around Badsi 
Baden. 

Tbe Oak Avenue after Iho Promenade. is nm 
resorted to, and the main road la through i 
rammer's evening crowded with carriages am 
honemen, and the paths on either aide witi 
pedestrians. 



The Pcarish Church is remarkable as havl^ 

within it the monuments of several of the Msr 

graves, the most notable of iriiieh la that d 

Leopold William, and hia lady Fraocisoa. Thi 

monument Is supported by Turks in *<»^*«' ta 

commemorate his feats against the infidola. A 

momument of Louis William, by Pagelle; one 6i 

Margrave Frederick, who, though a bishops h 

reprf sented in armour, with a helmet itiat ^^i tl 

a mitre. At the east end of the town is fte 

Frauenkircbe: attached to it is a community si 

Nuns of the Holy Sepulchre, who have an edna^ 

tional institute connected with the convent, sni 

are habited iu black as mourning, to bo won 

until the sepulchre is rescued ft^>m the <wHitA. 

The churdi music is executed by the Nan% 

and attracts on Sundays and feativala nsnj 

strangers. 



The doi neue SchletSf or New Pnlaee, la 
pcouUd, in order to have access to the music above the highest houses in the town. Tbii 
rooau and baiia* The avenue leading to the I Palace was tbe residence of the Bfargrsves M 
CVinwrMt/onsbaus, Is illled with staUa of trad«Kft\ mora VbaiiXbTCA centuries, but waa burned if 
ihoai awff • ->Tid the Tyrol, and even fkoin\ ttie Ynlut3kl^xl\^^^v(A^«a %S^rc«««^ rescsrtl 



Boate 29J poer ofitgb— czcuBSioiia. 140 



to its p rom t flonii. Af a taOdinf it It not at | eftOed tlie ^MMMb, or wIm oon, wtn choaen 

an remarkable, and is only intereetlng' from its ; from amraif tiioaa jndfed tbe wisest, most vlrt«« 

ritiuitionand the dmigeons under it, wtdefawin i oa% and tiie braTest of the oemmnni^. NotUag 

be pointed OQt and shown to the tomist by the I inUstoiyeanbeooaaparedwithitfortlie 

Castellan. They are horrible hopeless dungeons* j *°m itjezarted. and the terror it 

■ach as will strike the beholder with si<&ening | wiless the state inquision of. Venioe. . Tbm 

horror. They are entered by a windhig stairs . greatest and most powerflil prinaes and noUli 

under tiie tower, and through an aneient bath i ^^/f^ anzioua to.enter.it, either for protasUoB 

constructed by tlie Romans. These dungeons j- ^^^®°^ ^'^^ anemies, or to .secnze .the ma s b a e 

were notso entered bytheirludden inhabitants; [ •8ai>»t its power^ It possibly for a tfane wovhad 

they were let down a perpendicular shaft run. ^ vail, suppressing oiSmoei, a ndhr l ng ing crfaJiiah 

Iking through the centre of the building, blind- I- ^^wtioe, who were aboTO thareadi of thatev^ 

fblded and secured in an arm chair. The vaults ! ^^ ^ ooald not tkxl in beoonoing an cnglBa of 

in wUch the tribunal sat in judgment are eaca- oiM^tJ and evil, horrible b^ proportioa to 

rated out of tbe solid ro(^ The dungeons were [^ power and aaystery. A very good, yiaw 

dosed by massiTe daba of stone turning en » ^"^ ^ obtained from the upper part of tha 

pivots; several of them stUl remain. They are | ou^ wliieh alone renders it vrorth aoties^ 

nearty a foot thidc, and weigh from one to two ' together with the open shaft running from 



thousand pounds. In a vault loftier than the 
rest stood the instruments of torture, a row of 
iron rings formerly part of the horrid apparatus 
still remain in the wall and may be seen. Luthis 
duunber was the criminal sentenced to a cmd 



the top of the buflding to the bottom. II 
is divided into two by a partition, and it is sap* 
posed that the prisoner was wound iq|> to the top 
by one side of the shafc and let .down into tba 
prisons of the tribunal by the 4>thar. It is also 



death, called la 5aif0r<i0 la FSrye; he was desired i supposed that this shaft served to convey air to 
to Use an image ofthe Virgin placed at the ftirther ; these subterranean dungeons. .. 
end. To do this, he waa obliged to step on the j Th9 EngliMh Chureh Service i^pntonoed efWj 
trap door, it gave way beneath his weight, and : sabbath at 11 a.m. in the SpUaL Kerehe. English 
he was predpitated to agreat depth upon wheels visitors generally subscribe for the siq»port of 
covered with knives^ hj wUch he was torn to the minister. 



pieces. This dungeon with the fttal tn^ door j The Post 0§m, Letters to snd from 
was called oaNi^fte , those who entered it were i burg snd Carlsruhe arrive and are deqmtdied 
lost, they were indeed *<OHNi£f.'' In the Hall of ^ twice daily as regards the former place, and onoa 
Judgment there are yet traces cit the stone seats • in reference to the latter, 
of the judges round the walL Bdiind the niche I Carriages, donkejs, and, riding horses are to 
wliera the president (Blntrichter) sat is the out. I be get here plentiftdly at all the inns during tba 
let to a subterranean passsge by whidi the man- I sesson. AUthedargesarer^^ulatedbyatarilf 
bars ofthe court entered. It once communicated ' according to distance. The postmaster is enti« 



with the old castle at the top of the hUl, but is 
now walled up. A very trivial circumstance, it 
Is said, led to tbe discovery of these terrible dun- 
geons, which were found in a search for a little 



tied to duurge ISkr. extra beyond the usual sum 
for every horse sent £rom Baden. 

ThA E»cmiUmt Scarcely a path presenta 

itsdf that does not conduct the visitor through 



dog who fell through the plank above; this j some pleasant and pioturesque scenes. Tha 
pit when sesrcfaed, disclosed the fragments j principal of whidi is tbe das JUe ScKUm, about 
of wheels set round with knives, fragments of I 2^ miles off, an faiteresting ruin rishig out of tba 
bones, rags and torn garments adhering to them. I trees, on the top of a hUl, overhanging the town. 
Tradition would also asdgn to the dungeons aa i It te approadied by a sig-sag earriage-roa^ bnt 
being the seat of the Vehmgericht or sacred j a diorter path is open to it for the conveyanea 
tribunal. The Vehm of Westphalia hdd Its j of pedestrians and riders. The path is deUgfat- 
meetings in the open air. The meetfaigs of this | frilly didtered with woodhmd trees, and seata 
tribunal were hdd In the faunost recesses of tha | idaoed at intervals enable tha touxislL to ^va*. 
forest at midright Its membars who mn% l:dmwat ^^ia»ft%toyaasift 



uo 



[Bom SI 



The JUe Sddou wu the rerideooe ot th* 
Mfligravci for manj otntariM^ and wm cnly 
abaiidkMied bj flitm in the flftacnth, when 
the ebolUmient of the rl|^t of prirate werfltre 
MiaUed them to lire with aMj in the town 
wliere thej bnOt the nnW Chlteen. The 
nine Be on tiie northern ridge of themoontein 
of tlie old ceetle : the north-weetem point is built 
i^on a took of porphjiy, and was probeUj the 
veik of the Bomaas. The Togetatloa in these 
nine is astonishiny, eqpeciaOj on the western 
ride. The maple and ILr grow liere to an hnmense 
beiglit and t hickn e ss ^ and seem to derive nurture 
only from the li^t and air. Tlie most interest- 
ing parts are the cellar .vaults, the Knight Hall, 
the emeries running round its mouldering bat- 
tlements, from wUch you oan ei\)oy many de- 
lightftil proq^ects^ and the hi^ tower on the 
south-eset side^ asomded by a stone staircase; 
fttMn the top you behold part of the beautiful 
Sliine the fore mountafais of the Uadc forest, 
oburches, mills, innumerable villages, dustering 
in delightftil harmony around sylvan and winding 
streams. Some wind-harps were formerly placed 
in the upper walls, whose magic tones produced 
a singular effect in the ruins, espedally in the 
dusk of the evening. 

On the left you see a path leading fi^nn the 
gateway of the castle to Ebersteinburg, two miles 
off, and an old castle idtuated at the extremity 
of the villiige of the same name, upon an insulated 
rock, and commanding a splendid view. Good 
liewB may also be obtained ftt>m the JagdhauSf 
the Tbturgy 6 miles off, and the Merewritui>ergf 6 
miles off, on the top of which is a tower, and to 
both of whidi places pleasant excursions may 
be made. 

The Lichtenihdl. — ^The valley of the convent of 
the Lichenthal is i^proached by an avenue of 
shady oaks, commencing at the south end of the 
town. The nunnery was foufaded in 1245 by the 
Margravine Irmengard, and preserved when the 
other religious houses were secularised. The 
founder and many of the princessess of her race 
^>ent their days here in calm retirement. It is 
the order of the Cistercians. The older and 
smaller of the two churches, called the 
ftmeral (diapel, has buried within it many of 
JOargnvtB and their families^ over whose ashes 
juv raised caziouB monuments, with their 
gotUpturad and marked effigies. It hu be«a 



renewed and redecontedwsta I 
the old Oennaa Seiiool; themoatreniarinlileiB 
the ooDeetkm are those pafaitedbjAons BaUtaf 
iHioee daughter died a nun fat the Cloister. 

The large building lying at the left side ef flw 
yard, is now the OrpAon JEToMSfl^ founded by Bsron 
Stutes, the London tailor. The doteter hss 
aveiy melandioly appearance^ and la eeparated 
1^ a rushing stream from Mount CedBa, wUA 
throws its shade over the solitary ihlnic; eeversl 
walks lead to the top of the mounts from wfaidi a 
magnifleent panoramia view of the UIls and 
mountain in the direction of Baden will be 
eqjoyed. 

Near XieUenAoZ are the convent and vQIageef 
Oberbeuren, lying at the entrance of a beauUflil 
and picturesque valley, which stretdies with iti 
neat cottages and rural reridences along the eth* 
bank of the rivulet. The TaUey abounds la 
scenes of quiet loveliness, and ^van magnifleene^ 
and the lover of nature will find Jifmarff ird 
repaid by an excursion through it. Toamsy 
proceed in a carriage as for aa the pictaresqps 
village of Ceroldsaw, from whidli viattors esa 
walk to the waterftn called the Butte, generdlf 
dried up in summer, but the walk is pleasant ani 
worth having. A pedestrian diq;>osed to makea 
tour of 12 or 14 miles might walk on hence ts 
Yburg, and thence to Geroldsan orer the UDii 
returning to Baden by Lichtentlial; hut a gnidi 
will be necessary for this. A carriage and two 
horses, costing about 6fl., win tskie the travdier, 
not having much time to spare, to theprino^ 
ol^ects of attraction in and about Badm in about 
six hours. He first visits the old Schloss on foot, 
occupying abcut three hours, and drives thence 
to Meu*Eberstein by Licfatenthal, descoiding the 
Murgthal to Gemsbach ; by Ottenan, RothenfiBli 
and Kuppoiheim to the favourite, firom whenoi 
he can return to Baden or to Rnstadt Station 
The drive to Gemsbach and New Ebersteia 
flrom Baden and back will occnpy a forenooo 
but the most delightfiii excursion that can be 
made from Baden is to the vall^ of the Mur& 
which abounds in charming scmery, and is tea 
leagues long. The scenery is now mfldsnd 
picturesque, bathed in oilm lovelineae; agaia 
bold and grand in its rugged wOdneis. 

The road leads past an excellently cultivated 

country-seat of the Margrave WUliam of Bade% 

\ «M ta^tucft \^^>a%\x thA TlUages of ISoOci^ 



Bonte S0| 



VORBJlCH— KSHL. 



m 



and QoqgmBML, The letter place has a gUun 
koon^ worth ■Bring. Behtaid fhe little town of 
Gemsbach yoii fee^ penring down on you between 
fir tre«\ the famona oastle of Neu Eberstein, 
projecting from a rugged crag, and so situated 
aa to have enabled its possessors in former days 
to command the passage of the Talley and stream. 
It was rebuilt about thirty years since on the old 
foundational and is antiquely Aumished and orna- 
mented with Gothic Aimiture, armour, painted 
glasa, &c. It is the summer residence of the 
Grand Duke, and strangers are freely admitted 
to see it. The prospect is uzdque, both in an 
eastern and western direction, and there is 
scarcely a spot in Germany comparable to it. A 
si ;.sag road leads firom the castle gate to the 
Murg, gi/ing a shorter footpath to the 

Der KUngd, or white chapel. 

Behind Weissenbach, whose churchyard peers 
down npon you trom a shady hill, the road 
rises higher and higher, along over rocks with 
steep precipices, and the roaring rlTer, soon lost 
amidst wild clifb through which it has burst its 
way. The valley grows wilder and more pic- 
turesque the nearer we approach to Langenbrand. 
From here a short league takes us to Gemsbach, 
presenting all the i^pearance of a Swiss village. 
Here the road is endosed by mountains on the 
left, touching on the right a chasm into whidi 
the Murg thunders its ftirious waters, maddened 
by the huge blocksof granite impeding its current. 
We soon arrive at the last village belonging to 
Baden. 

FoRKACH. — (Tnn: Krone) — Where all the 
beauties of the Murg pass away like a shadow 
before us. Forbadi, which is 12 miles firom 
Baden, terminates the di^s excursion for parties 
Intending to return to Baden. But it may be 
wen to observe, that for those whose time does 
not hasten them on, the valley of the Burg is the 
door to the other magnificent valleys of the 
Black Forest. 

A few miles beyond Forbach the Baumensach 
rushes down, over broken rocks into the Murg. 
Here amidst impervious mountafais is the basin or 
q>ecies of tank Schevellung, contahUng 1,600,000 
oublo feet of water. At its extreme end fhe 
Blurg loses all interest. ArrivUig at the post 
Btati<m Schonmiuuaacta, we reach the frontier of 
WfirtembuTf . 



BouiB 80. 



BadeD to Strasbnrs. 



Persons wishing to visit Strasbnrg wiD find an 
omnibus at the station on arrival of each train. 
Carriages are always ready to take them to 
Strasburg and back, thus avoiding the Inspeotion 
of luggage, which takes place each time of orow. 
ing the Rhine. 

From Appenweir station, on tiie Great Baden 
Railwi^ a line branches off to the right to ^ekt, 
before arriving at which, we pass Kork station. 

KiHir— Hotel: 

De la P'Mte— the best 

A small village, once a German fortress, situated 
on the bank of the Rhine, where it Joins the Kindg 
and Schuttcr. It is now dlsmantied, atter having 
been burned and rased on many occasions by the 
French, agidnst whom it was chiefly erected as a 
fortress. 

The Froich Custom House is situated at the 
otheir side of the river, and the examination of 
baggage is so severe that unless the traveler wish 
to penetrate Airther into France, he had much 
better not remove his baggage from Kehl. 

Opposite Strasburg, upon an island, whidi here 
divides the Rhine into two arms^ is the Custom 
House, and the monument erected by the 
army of the Rhine to General Dcssaix ; on the 
left a bri<fge of boats connects the main Uukl 
with the island. Kehl is 4 miles distant firom 
Strasburg, and omnibuses are constant^ at the 
station to convey passengers to the city until 
sunset, when the bridge gate is dosed. We see 
the south side of the Citadd of Strasburg, aflar 
paoring the second bridge. Fsssing the mile stone 
dose to the Austerlitz gate, wo enter Strasburg. 
Should thtf traveller merely intend a vfait of a 
few hours, or the length of a day, his pasqKnt 
is kept at the Guard House for him until his 
return, but otherwise it is handed over to Cha 
poBoa* 



^1 



i:»2 



HOUTB 81. 

Offenbarg to CoBStanee. 

BT SCHAFTHAUBBM^ THX KHg tf THAL, AND 
DOHAUBSCHCfaXN. 

Distance from Offenbnrg to Schaffhangen, 102 
KnglJsh miles, and thence to Cimttanoe 30 Eng- 
lish piOes. 

Opfk?tbubo — (Inns: Die Fortnna and La 
Poste). Starting on our route, we proceed in 
an eastern direction to the rear of Offenborg, 
the channing yaUej of the Kinalgthal. At the 
opcming of the vale, fiulhar on, we pan Ortan- 
burg, with the picturesque ruin of an old castie. 
Here grows the most excellent red wine, in the 
Grand Duchy of Baden. 

Gbnoeitbach. — (Inn : Badische Off,) xmce an 
imperial town, with a late Abbey of Benedictines, 
now secularised. From Offonburg to this place, 
the Talley offers a great many beautiAil views 
on either bank of the river. The town has 
25,000 inhabitants, and its most remarkable 
bidldfaigs are the Cloister, the Guild Hall, the 
Merchants* Hall, the New Hospital, and the 
Church of St. Hark. The Church of the Cloister 
k a bcautifiil one. Behind Gengenbach, 
the VftUey gradually narrows, but at the same 
time begins to present a more picturesque and 
agrreeable appearance^->4he mountains clothed in 
deep verdure, appearing doser at every step, 
dosed the charming meadow ground washed by 
the Kinzig, and forming the valley. 

BiBBERACH — (Inn : Furstenberger Hof), on the 
left bank of the river, close to Hausach. A 
lateral valley from here takes the tourist to Zdl, 
on the Hammersbach, remarkable for its porce- 
lain manufactory. Further up in the valley we 
come to 

Hasslaoh, a place with 18,000 inhabitants, for- 
merly the residence of the members of the house 
of Fiirstenberg, to which both Haaslach and 
the neighbouring B[ausach bdong. Above Hau- 
sach,the road verges to the left, taking yon to 
the romantic valley of Schappach, at the ex- 
tremity of which are the baths of Ruppoldsau, 
]ytig at the foot of the Enlbis. The small town 
of 'Wolfach lies at the opening of that valley, and 
a conaidcrable trade in timber is carried on by 
//, e inhabitants. The direct lOad which wo pur- 



PMi« 



• Mi 



sue OB onr route Itadi in a 
direetion throogh a oovntxy 
a]q;»eanuioe to 

HoRHBBio.— (Ima ; Peat and B«ai% riftMta 
under a height, with 1,100 inbaUturii. Ik 
town <tf Homberg fbrmeriy belongad to WBrlMi 
burg, but ia now under the awaj of Bata 
It lies hi a narrow ravfaie nader a ly r^gH wm 
mounted by an old castie. The road from h» 
to the next town leads 19 tha ^altaiy ef ft 
Gutach, winding hi f'nmfnim aartea y**" 1 
aaddenly carries yon to tlia <»»»t*ft Tirft ef ft 
little town of 

TaiBEBo — (Inn: Badmndia Hoi). A |ha 
with 800 inhabitaati^ romaatleally ff t liniiril ^ 
the high read, and hemmed In bj loflj pne^lBM, 
Triberg to the principal market for the dedksfll 
the black forest, and for the jdlow oidoatad ston 
hats worn by the peasantry. Over 200^000 orOsM 
docks are yearly eiported, under the ami d 
Dutch do<^ to the various oonntrlet of Bann 
and to America and China. The waterfkB irfl 
attract attention as a very pretty raanaik. It k 
formed by the mountain brooka iriildi untteb 
and fh>m one of the predpioea henuning ia tti 
town, pour their waters into the duun bdav, 
causing a great number of small rnsoadoe, tti 
dng^ularity renders it as deserving of hotng ■« 
as any of the Swiss waterfialls, and itb real^oM 
of the most notable spots of the Blad: Steeit 
The mountiUns are partly covered with daik ft^ 
trees, and every object has already an AlpfeH 
appearance. 

St. Gsoaaair— The only object worth nslloi 
at thto place to the old Benedicthie Abbey, bmt 
by the Duke of Wiirtemburg , because the 1 
would profess the Lutheran dootrlne, but 1 
was soon erected again and the mios of the oli 
one preserved. From here the road inpifcy^ to 
a descent until our arrival at 

ViLLnreiur.— (Inns : Post, Blnme^ but WV- 
ferent). A small market town with a popaktha 
of 3,750 hihabitants. The town ttaelf lacmti 
the appearance of a square, intersected at rigbt 
angles by two prindpal streeta, at cadi end a' 
which there to a gate. Near Swenningeo, flw 
miles east of thto place is the aource of tia 
Nedcar. We are now in a eoontry that ess 
fSdrly be called cascade lan^, ae ple^lftd^doa 
it abound in fountains and waterfttOi^ tha Mif^ 



'%o«to n 



DOfNAUnOQECDrOKf*— 80AFIHAC8BII • -OCMOT AVCB* 



15f 



of fht BlMk fbrwt feed fhe two 
prhMip*! rircn in Earope. The two eztremi- < 
ties of a Continent receive the mdted mow 
flakes of Us ridges, and hi many taistances the 
water drops of its houses find thdr way in 
one dfarection to the Oerm%n Ooesn, and in 
anotiier to the Blade Sea, though they originally 
melted and dropped within a stone's Jerk of eadi 
other. 

DoKAVCSOHnresir. — (fons: Schutse; Falke), 
the capital of the principality of Baar, once the 
property of the Prince of Fiirstenberg, one of 
the mediatised princes, whose palace is the prin. 
oipal Indlding of the town, which contains 3,150 
Inhabitants. In the garden of the palace la tlie 
eonree of the Danube^ a circular badn of dear 
^arkling water, conducted through a diannel 
under ground for about fif^ yards into the 
Briegach, from this q;>ot called the Danube. 
Though the two upper streams the Brege and 
the Briegach are long, yet they are not known 
as the Danube until they Join the stream of the 
eastle garden, but for which, despite the length 
of their eoorse, they would be liable to be esc- 
hausted; benee the daim of this court-yard 
basin to be called the source of the Danube^ 
whose real origin, like that of the Nile, is rery 
obscure. 

The country for miles around Donauesdiingen 
is moist and marshy, the seat of innumerable 
nnrings aU flowing to the Danube. At Hiilflngen, 
about a mile from this place, our road crosses 
the Brege, whidi is Joined by the Briegach, a 
mile frurther down, and considered the «*<Af 
stream of the Danube. 

EOwSgen. — ^Donauesdiingen to Constance by 
Odsingen direct in nine hours. Engen, remark* 
able as the qwt where the Austrians were de- 
feated by Moreau in 1800, both rides losing 7,000 
men. The height of Hohenhowen, an extinct 
volcano, was occupied by the Austrians, but were 
driven from it by the FVendi. 

Our road to SdiaflThausen leads through a bare 
and open country, in the midst of whidi we 
fee to the left the ruined castie of Ffirstenberg. 
We pass the small village ct Riedbohringen and 
Blumberg a miserable poet house, near wfaidi is 
the Custom House. The asooit and deaeent 
of tiio Rande^ a very steep hOl, ooenpies thli 
sCageL A magnificent view can be cq}oyed 
Orom the mmmit of the hUl the spot near tiM 



wooden cross. On the left we see the momt" 
tains and extinct Tolcanoa known as tiM 
Hohenstofldn, Hohenkiihe^ and Hehentwett 
and in the same direction the lake of Con^ 
stance unfolds its duvms to the ^es^ wUbt titt 
towers of Constance and the snow-capped UBs «f 
Svritzerland add beanttftiny to the badcgxooBd of 
the picture. Midway down is the Cratom HeoM 
of the Baden frontier. Just beyond tiM 
road enters Switserland, and passes throng • 
valley to 
SehalThaascn.— HoTSL : 

Hotd du Krone (Crown)— Tory dean, modertii 
duurgee, and a most obliging host,' who speakf 
English fluently. 

Steamers daily to Constanee. 

At Schaffhansen post hiortM are tnppUad on 
the road to Constance. The stages are 

Baxdbcmi^ where we meet the Baden Cmloni 
House. 

SiireKN, where we peas at the base of the Hohen- 
twiel, formerly a famous old castie, and in latter 
times a mountain fortress of the late Dukes of 
'Wurtemberg, whidi, however, is now dlsmantlod 
and standing in ruins on a lofty rode. 

BAi>oLFZKLL.~(Iim : Post-house).-^The town 
itself is a miserable hole, rituated at the end of 
the extreme branch of the Lake of Constanoe, 
and known as the ** Unter Bee." It contains a 
very fine old churdi In the Germaa Gothic style. 

PxTERSHAVssir, rituatcd on the right bank of 
the Rhine, which hero from a lake becomes a 
river, was under the Empfare a tree abbsj. 
Crossing the Rhhie bya wooden bridge, we readi 

Constanee.— inn?: 
Hedit (Le Brodiet). 

Krone (La Couronne), both well qtoken of. 
Hotds Delisle Post and Aide d'Or. 

Is rituated at the north-west extremity of the 
Bodense, or lake of Constance^ on the left bank of 
the river. Ereeted by the Romans in the com- 
mencement of the fourth century, it was con- 
riderably improved since the middle of the sixth 
century, and flourished as a free imperial town 
: in its trade and manufkctures throughout tiie 
middle ages. It is dull and monotonous, but fhe 
deep interest attadied to its historical traditioaa^ 
cannot fkfl to make it an agreeable sqjoum of a 
day or two. It former^ contained 40,000 inha- 
Utants^ but has at the present tInnA ^ei^j 
than % v^xittS&iOfVL «ft. ^^K^* 




d««tfa bj th« «b«l>e tram tba wretcbed 
OMHtUuted thnwlni Ui Jodga. 
Inmb dT Engllib brua Nudi In boil ot tht 
fnnd ilUr. SBuub 1^ Ua toumd, tlie 



tf tha choIrwUI deqilj tatUnsl tb« tUIUh 
enimat (kU to bo diaigbHd wtth th« ezq 
ourlngi amuaendni them. The deuh of Uie 
iligln, rapiwDUd br Ufeliks flgiiie>,tn tlu north 
truHpt, li «>rth liiipeetloa.utba IbtbsuttfLil 
tnoa7 woA of tba gUO ulRliig ddM or tha an- 
doitdaiiun. A ciNni Ilka boUding ta leaa In 
OB* Of thalr Migka, ud in It* oanDe ■ round 
raua. In tba gcthlo Ufla, ""tilnhig t number 
of BurioDilj darliad •orlpdnl Ognru It fa uaad 

on Good Fridijr. In tha Hotat^ ira uma t«it 
onrloiu rstUa, Bratant lue, ud * bawtUUl 
nuatelidasa. Tba oopboirda or n iiin tai Ihs 
nppm Ttatij.rooni win lnnn«t. 

The DomMmh CMoAii; now ■ «UoD IbetoiT, 
Masdg opoD ■ Unla liluid, iKwa a i>~».ti torM. 



dravn to neccdon, tba flgum of Alvnhan, t 
■ u pportad tba pul^ bi tha mlnitvr, — *■< gil 
mica of tba coimd], bcride m coDmHib 



.1 

na aaui uaio^red to tht Mona dungao^ In I 
ombikiHi oonnot. In tba anborb o( Bil 
iDdda tba town, bflia flald In whiidi h* loM 
dutb wttb barolo tartUnda. Tba apot I* A* 
irtiare tb* itaka wu pUoad, tiulaanbanl^ 
-' Hna (Dd JarooM an oVHnd hv ala. 
b ConManoe «M nasotlatad the tMU^tf pM 



Ma, and rignadat AaAarg, b JbI,^ m 
TbehonaababkidtbaboHd AmU, taiwUohi 
w tta* baaaUfnl Gotblo vliidair, la Om baa 

'hm tht Bvaur bidgad. "^n Iimij i^rn 



iuDbnn^ **»pf*>>in^^^iy|jiT„^^^ ^ Badai^ aJ 



BontQ 8fij 



BUBG-HBCEIG-HK3BAFFKATJ8KBL 



U5 



The nsfigatioB of Lake Constaaee to aooom- 
pBflhed by seren or dght ■teamen, which keep 
np a oommanicaiion two Or three timea a day 
with the princ4;»al places npon its banks. The 
traffic upon thto lake has receifed a considerable 
impetus flrom the formation of a port at Fried- 
ridisiiafni and the southern terminus of the 
Vurtemberf railway; and it to likely to be still 
ftorther augmented by the completion of the 
Bavarian railway to Lindan, which to anticipated 
in the course of thto year, 1853, and by which it 
will be brought into communication with the 
qrstem of railways in that kingdom, also with 
those of Northern Germany. 

The northern banks of the lake are flat; but 
the southern side presents a series of picturesque 
^dews, haying the mountains of AppengeU and 
St. Gall, together with those of the Tyrol, in the 
back ground. 

Excursions can be made from here to Biehnan, 
situated in the broad part of the Bhine, and 
fkmed for its monastery, founded by Charle- 
magne ; and to Mainan, fomr miles north, fismous 
as being once the seat of the commandry of the 
knights of the Teutonic order. It to ^^proached 
by a wooden foot-bridge, which oonnecti it with 
tiie shore. From the terrace of the garden 
eurrounding the house in which the eommandry 
dwelt^ some delightftd views may be had. 

Diligences daily to Zurich bi Si hours; to 
Sohairhausen hi 4}; to St. Gait hi 6; Donani- 
■chtaigener in 8; and te Freiburg in 17. 

Steamers to all the ports of the lake^ eorre- 
gponding with the Dfligences to Milan, atSors- 
badi, at the Friedriehshafen, with the Efliniigen, 
tar Stuttgart, and at Lindau wttli thoee to Ma. 
nioh and Augsberg. 

BOUTB 32. 
Freibars <o SehaffhaosMk 

Dtotanee, 67 EnglUh milea. Eilwagen daily- 
one direct in 11 hours; the otiicr by Donauea- 
«Ungea in 14} hours. 

The fwde to accomplished throngh the cbarm- 
fag valley of the Hollenthal, or Infernal VaBey 
wfalfih presents the appearance, at ttit opening, 
•t a flat and fertile plahi, cnoloted amid doplai, 



and sylvan hOto. Neartngtheasoent^llaoirigkMl 
width becomes slowly contracted; and at about 
42 miles from Schaffhausen, assumes a magnifl" 
cently beautiAil shade of romantic grandons. 
Its woods, rich in foltoge, cover the steep skle% 
ttom which project sharpened fragments of 
rock, rugged and naked, having running at their 
base the Dreisam, whose banks are verdant with 
turf, and studded with milto. The scenery hero 
win impress the mind of the tourist as partaUnf 
of a mi^estic wUdness, blended with a picluresqiA 
beauty; Steig and Hirsehspnmg are the qpets 
most remarkable for the eathibition of thto wfld 
and rugged grandeur. On the Journey we paM 

BuBO^ remarkable ftvm the fact that ift ITWb 
Moreau accomplished a retreat with hto annj. 
Ninety -four years previous to thia, Marshal Yillan' 
was deterred from attempting thto pass, sajrinf 
that he was not dare-devil enough. On our OBo 
ward way we meet 

Stbio, a post station, where the traveDop 
may ei^oy good accommodation, on reasonabto 
terms. Here a steep slope of the road lead! 
the tourist out of the Hollenthal, or Vallqr 
of HeU; and leaving it, he parts with the 
finest scenery. At thto Juncture an extra horse 
to required for the ascent of the HSUensteig, hr 
which Ifl. 12kr. must be paid. Opening in the 
distance to Himmelreich, aUas the Kingdom of 
Heaven— called so, we presume, from the W9rf 
elevated position of the country constitating It. 
Fsssing Lenakirch, and Bondorii; (nineteen mftae 
ftt>m whieh to the magnificent Benedicttne 
Abbey of St. BUdze), we arrive at the top of the 
aacent, from whence may be had a magnifleeiii 
view of the Lake of Constance. Close by is the 
castle of Hohenlupfen ; and a little fkurther ea 
alter passing StuhUngen, we cross a stream, and 
Journeying ona distanoe of 11| miks, we anctve 
at 

BcHATVHAvsBir.—We now enter Switieriaad^ 
flunous for her mountain strongholds. 

Th« pslaow <rf BstOTC, wkoM vast walli^ 
Save plnnsdwl In doada thflir waawj Mslp | 

And Ummad BtaniltF in ior luOls 
Of oold nbUmitr* wken Swim and lUls 

Hm avalanftha th« thandarbolt of waaw I 
AUfihatazpuidatlwaplilt, yetaiipala. 

QattMia nmod tha awnmll, aa todiaw 
Bow aartli may aoar to 1 



APPENDIX 



WIESBADEN. 



J 



Hotels: 
Bom Hotel and Bath-Hoiise— flrst-ntte and rea- 
■enable, kept by Mr. Schmidt, fonnerly of 
Meurices Hotel, Paris. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, an excellent house, highly 
recommended. 

Hotel de Nassau, well sitoated, and a Teiy com- 
fortable house. 

Population, 15,000. 

The capital of the Duchy of Nassau is encircled 
by low cultivated fields, behind which on the north 
and north-east rises the range of the Taunus 
mountains, clothed with pine and other trees, 
the dark foliage of which forms a pleasant relief 
to the verdure of the valley, and the white 
buildings of the town. Wiesbaden, though the 
residence of the Duke and the seat of government, 
is still indebted to the celebrity of its waters for 
its prosperity, and the influx of visitors to it^ 
ikhich amount annually to upwards of 16,000. 

The old part of the town presents nothing 
particularly remarkable but the appearance of 
the Wilhelm's Strasse, a handscmie row of new 
houses fironting the promenades, in striking. It 
Is ealled a *city of lodging houses,' almost every 
house being appropriated to the accommodation 
Of visitors. 

The Kurhaus der Viet Jahttzeiten, one of the 
most extensive hotels on the Continent, forms a 
eomer of the Wilhelm's Strasse, and one side of 
a square, on the oppodte side of which stands 
the new Theatre, a neat building, where there 
Is always a good company of players during the 
■saeon, at which period also, concerts and exlii- 
idtiona are given by artists of celebrity from 
trtber towns In Oermanj, or from London. 



Across the road to a grass endosarfl^ bordere 
by avenues of limes, and on the other side i 
colonnade for shops. At the extremity stand 
the Kureaal, an edifice which contains a magni 
ficent salon for balls and public anafimMiofl, witi 
smaller apartments for refreshment and gamini 
licensed by the government for the seasoi 
though the inhabitants of the town are preventa 
frt>m risking their money. Gaming b canied a 
in the salle all day and night, and H is fielmhttw 
that there is lost at these tables ^ntmmny 27fi^000fl 
The ground around the Kursaal is laid out as i 
public garden, adorned with shrubs, flowers, Ac 
and sheltered by acadas and other planti 
Thither all betake themselves after dimMr t 
sip coffee, smoke, and listen to the hand; music i 
always in attendance during the aftemooitt b 
the season. From this pleasure ground, si 
agreeable path is continued by the aide of i 
streamlet up the valley c^ Sonnenberg as fiur s 
the ruin of the ancient castle of Mllnfrom Wiei 
baden. 

Nothing has been left nndone to render thi 
town the most firequented watering place I 
Germany; the walks and drives are pleasing an 
varied, and from the rishig grounds, the BUn 
with Mayence, and other towns on its banks i 
seen to advantage. From Aire to six and eigt 
in the morning, and again in the evening ftiM 
about six to seven victors assemble to drink tb 
waters. They receive their draught at the wd 
in 'boiling hot state^' and promenade^ gla« ii 
band, a long avenue of acadas, nntO It Is ooc 
enough to drink, after which, those so dJspossd 
usually bathe, when the Promenade is deared a 
about eight o'dock. TUs boiling spring to it"** 
Kochbnmnmt and presents all the H»peanBoe i 



APTBRDIX* 



107 



A boOing eauldron. In a lUite of angry etmUittoiu 
Iti temperature ranges at 66« of B^anm, equal 
to about 166<> of Fahrenheit. Beaidee this there 
are thirteen other springs in the town, aU of 
which are of a very liigh temperature. These 
waters are now carried oif to the Rhine, and so 
powerftil is thdr heat that thoy keep warm, and 
never permit to fireese that portion of the river 
with wlii<di they first mingle. 

The heat of the weather in July and August 
is at times very oppressive, and thunder storms 
are not unflrequent, but the evenings are gene- 
rally fine and pleasant, and the air on the hills 
Hght, agreeable^ bradng, and well calculated to 
remove the oppression caused by the atmosphere 
of the valloy, from its sheltered position. Wies- 
baden possesses a good winter climate fw Ger- 
many, and is drier than that of Baden. 

The SMondten (or little palace), has an exed- 
lent pubUc library, oontabiing 60,000 vols., and a 
museum or cabinet of antiquities, among which 
is a curioudy carved altar piece, the bronxe top 
of the standard of a cohort of the 22nd Legion, 
and a bas-relief representing the young Crod 
Mythras, in a Phrygian bonnet, sacrificing a bull, 
surrounded by Mythological figures, and sur- 
mounted by the rigns of the sodiac. 

The Theatre opens at 6 p.m. 

Strangers are admitted to the Cststno on being 
Introdttoed by a member. 



English Cfaurch Senrloe is celebrated each 
Sunday during summer in Kirdi Gasse Luthena 
Church at 11 a.m and 6 p.m., and dwing wtbter 
in the Hdtel de la Bose at 11 a.m and 3| p.m. 

Conveyance : Eilwiigen daily to Ems and Ce« 
blens, three times daily to Rudesheim, and daily 
to Lunburg. 

A Dueal Hunting Lodge— Die Platte, stands In • 
conspicuous itosillon, on an elevated ridge of tha 
Taunus, and usually forms a pleasant exooraloD 
for strangers. The apartmento are tastefkdly 
fitted up with ftumiture, chiefly made of stagi^ 
horns, and several fine painTof antlers hang 
around the hall, as trophies of the late I>nke*f 
achievemento in the chase. From the roof % 
splendid prospect ia obtained of an extensive 
tract of variegated country, indudhig the course 
of the river for several miles, and the chain of the 
Bergstrassemountains, with the woods of the Tan* 
nus and Wiesbaden lying immediately beneath. 

7%e Convent of KUxrenthal and the Ftmmerie 
(Pheasantry), a little to the left of the road, wlH 
f epay a visit. 

At Bieberich in the duke's ohfttean. {See pagef 
Hi.) AU the interesting places on the Ttt»*ing«n 
between Bieberich and Rudesheim will be found 
described in route 22. 

Railway from Wiesbaden to Mayenoe In 1( 
minutes, thence in 1 hour to Frankfort on tlM 
Maine station. 



8KS. 



HAtol de Sussle, good. 

Ems is beantiftUly situated on the right bank of 
the Lahn. It consists diiefiy of a long range of 
houses built against hlll% which rise steeply 
bdiind it to a eonsidarable h^ht. The ride of 
the vaUoy Is so narrow that there is barely space 
fbr the road and public promenade between 
the houses and the river. The situation of Ems 
Is emhiently beautiftil, and the neighbourhood 
peasesses several ott)ects of interest, to which 
•xoorrions are usually made on donkeys, which 
•re bare numerous and well conditioned, and 
vtthoat irbkHx many of the vidtors would be un- 
able to asband the steep hHls by whidi the vaU^ 
laeaeloiid. Fk«m this narrowness of the vaU^ 
IberetoawiBt ef free ventllationb the air Is n^ 



oeedingly oppressive and relaxing In July 
August. So that it would not be an eligible 
ridence at this time of the year for those who do 
not require its waters. The donkoys are postM 
close by the bridge of boats, and are hired for 
40kr. an hour. Ems, though not able at aU to 
compete with Wiesbaden, yet boasts a magnl* 
flcent Kuraaal, rituated on the verge of the Laho, 
and erected by the Grand Duke. It contains • 
cafig and gaming halls, and a ball room wheriia 
a ball takes place once a week. It is ^irtfanated 
that £70,000 k annually lost here In gambling. 
The JTurAotM stands in the centre of the town; 
on the ground floor, which is a large vaulted and 
gloomy hall, the water of the two prladipal 
springs Is drunk. Between the two 



158 



AFPERDtr. 



there ii « long pMsage, ofi either side of wliich 
are ftrranged stalls for the sale of fkncgr artldes. 
Underneath the Kurhaus the Baths are situated, 
which are duurged for at the following rates: 
18kr. for the common, 36kr., Ifl. to Ifl. SOkr. for 
Ae siq>erior cUiss, and 48kr. for the douche baths. 
TIdcets are usually purchased beforehand from 
the Badmeister, who arranges the time for taking 
Ihem, to which time the bather should be punc- 
tual to a minute^ as if he do not, he will lose his 
tnm. 

The waters are taken in the morning and 
after dinner, from 8 to 6 goblets before break, 
ftst, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon. The dhmer 
boor is 1 o'clock, and mostly all dine at the table 



dfhdte. After dinner thtt vMton nptir to flto 
wafts, where music and tSp^tag ooflte imiisw 
those who do not walk or ride. 

The EngUsh Chnrdi Serrioe is oeMnatad en 
Sundays in the Lutheran Chnrdh. Some bean- 
tiftd walks can be taken near Bma; partiealaitf 
sweet are those up and down tiM Lalu^ wUok 
afford some magnificent pr o e po e ta . 

The Marten Weg, on the &r aide of ttie Lalu^ 
the Henrietten Weg, and Maoahnt^ alltard ■'f^ 
agreeable walks. 

Kemmentm, situated at the top at a — rnrtrii 
to the rear of Ems, is a splendid point of viaw; 
and from Ems also can be vialted BnudMMhaad 
the Castle of Markaborg, deaoribed at roott & 



HOKBUBO. 



Hotels ^— 
Hotel de l*Enrope, flnt-rate^ bat mtj dear. 
Hotel dea i^uurtre Saisons. 
Hotel d* Angleterre, more comfortable andmnoh 
more reas on a M e 

Homburgh is a small town, beautiftdly situated 
on an eminenoe in the midst of agreeable scenery. 
Though a small place of 8,600 Inhabitants, yet 
■ince 1844 it has become a very distinguished 
watering iriace, and a qwt famous for its excel- 
lent mineral springs, the waters of which are 
decidedly valuable, and con^ of fire springs, 
one of which, that of Elizabeth, has more car- 
bonic add than any othef saline spot at present 
discovered. The StaMbrtmnen is ferruginous, 
like that of Spa; the BadeUe, a salt spring; the 
Kaiterbrunnen, compared to the Carlsbad waters* 
and the Ludwigtibnmnen, 

We refer, with confidence, those who really 
desire to become acquainted with the resources 
and virtues of these justly celebrated waters, to 
the ^Observations on the Mineral Waters of 
Homburg, by F. H. Prytherch, M.D., &c &c. 
&c., who is authorised English resident physi- 
cian. This publication may be h^d of John 
Churchill, Prince's-street, Soho, London; Louis 
SchicS^ Homburg ; or through theni^ of the prin- 
dpal continental booksellers. 

At Homburg we find one of the most magnl- 
llcent Kurhaus in Germany. It is stated that 
cnr BC^OOOH, are lost annually at this gaming | 



table; and it is also said that from fliii erti^ 
lishment the state of Hesse Hon. burg derlveaiti 
diief revenue. It has dining hall, ooflJee room^ 
reading and smoking ro<Hns^ and is provided 
with a very fine band, which plays dai^ on tbe 
walk. 

Its only object of attraotkm is the PoIom «f 
the Prince of Hesse Homburg. in it Is a laige 
collection of Eoman antiquities, and over the 
inner gateway is an equestrian statue of Priaee 
Frederick of Hesse. The daughter of George IH^ 
the late landgravine Elizabeth, had the gardens 
attached to the Palace nicely laid out in the 
English etyle, but they now present a deserted 
and neglected appearance. A sncoesaion of 
flower gardens and shrubberiea stretch along 
between these gardens and the base of the 
TauDua, affording to the promenader a magni- 
ficent walk, and leading him to an eminence 
commanding a rich view of the Bmroanding 
country. 

A visit can be paid from here to the JVoaiAatat 
SdU TFbrl:^ distant about 8 or 9 milesnorlh east 
of Homburg. 

English Churdi Service evei^ Siadaj. 

CoHVKTAacss — Omnibuses oorreapond with 
the trains to and from Frankfort almost every 
hour . It is quite as well to go the whole distanoe 
by oouabus^ which runs regularly firom the Pwt 
Office. 



A^PPBHPZZ. 



IMh 



SOHWAIiBAOH 



Hotels 2« 
Nassau Hof ; a most comfortable homo. 
Hotel de rEurope. 
Hotel I>no de Nassau. 

Schwalbach lies oonsldenibly higher than 
Wiesbaden, and though the town itself is hot 
in the middle of the day when the sun's rays are 
reflected flrom the hills, yet the air out of the 
TaUey is extremely bradng; the ground soon 
dries after rain, and the walks and rides in the 
environs are Taried, and extremely beautiAil. 
Within the last few years the plaee has been con- 
diderably enlarged and improved in its appear- 
ance and accommodation. This place is far 
more pleasant than Wiesbaden or Ems, in being 
more silent and less exposed to bustle or annoy, 
ance. The season lasts little more than two 
months, beginning in June, and ending in Au> 
gust. Here also are gaming tables in the public 
rooms of the A116 Saal, whkib opens out upon 
the AU6 on a fine avenue c^ trees continuous 
with the public promenade, where two of the 
. BptingB, the Wmibrunnen and the Pauline arise; 
the third qn^ing, /Stafib&runnen, is separated by a 
low hUl firom the others. Near Wembrunnen is 
the new Bath JJouse, a handsome buOding, reet> 
Ing on an open colonnade, which contains com- 
modious battling cabinets^ and a promenade 
room. The colonnade extends the entire length 
of the bnildiog, beneath irtiich booths are 
opened in the season for the sale of books, toys, 



&c., by itinerant travelleri. The Fanlfaie iptii^ 
gives water to the baths in the upper sfeon||'» 
and the Stahl and Wembrunnen to fhoie oi|, 
the lower. Each bath is charged for at the 
rate of 48kr , with 4ia. additional to the servant. 
Persons should be punctual in attending at ttio. 
hour for which they bespeak the bath, ag if thej 
do not they will lose their turn. 
The table d'hdte is at 11 o'clock. 
English Churdi Service is celebrated on Sun* 
days at 11 a.m. in the Upper Protestant Churah, 
in the Lange Gasse. 

The bins about are all intersected with paths^ 
and very beautifal views can be had from flie 
surrounding eminences, particularly firom tfaft 
RtuHo PaviUonf standing on the summit of • 
hill on the road from here to Wiesbaden, and 
whidi is not more than a quarter of an hon^ 
walk firom the Pauline. 

Adolphseckf a ruined casde, is another pretty 
excursion of a half-hour's walk. Theprinc^al 
excursion, and the one most surrounded with 
agreeable associations, is that to the CoiOe €f 
Hohenttein approadied by a carriage road, or hf 
the windings of the smaU stream Aar, under fht 
Castle of Adolphseck, and up the valley for six 
miles. Its scenery is charming and varied after 
a most beautiful fashion up to the moment the 
magnificent old castle shadows itself forth flrom 
its romantic height of Mack precipice. 

From Sdiwalbach we proceed by an eaEOOItait 
roidto 



SOHXiANOENBAD. 



Hotels:— 
HessischerHof. 

Nanssen Hof, called Schlangenbad, or Serpents 
Bath, firom the large number of snakes and 
T^;»ers abounding in the neighbourhood. 

Those who require quiet and retirement can 
pass a few weeks very agreeably at Schlangenbad, 
wUdi being higher and more shaded is a much 
•ooler residence than Wieriwden. The baths, 
also, fl^m being but slightly mineralised, may be 
WKd by penont In health without risk, and not 



only impart a pleasnrable sensation at tfie thnt 
but Ukewise afeehng otbienHre for the venudn- 
der of the day. 

The Batht are phuMd in the lower storey of 
the old and New Barhaug, and must be heate« 
for bathing as the water is only 80* Fahrenheit 

in temperature. 
A band «r music phiys daily on the promenade 

and thore are no gaming tables. 

English Church Service at 6 p.m., in the Dukt 
oi Hassan's chapel, during the season. 



•pnt Um tUM to make an 
«^ Um M oidte nuqr apcnd tfuM or 
fear <o|« moat plioiinHy m tho wetnmrj all 
tliroiigh tUt fidnoafM nOlof ia gaoonQj Twy 
iao aad in aawral placaa moat ezqoUta. The 
baDlMorthoMoaella ara bordgradwtth iindnl a t i n f 



or vUeh.fheOd«tai^bt 



baantiftil Bttle 

from aD adndrflra of gneafid 

Odndoi/ OB the kft ia 
formcrfy fherarfdcDoe of file Coonte 



Bttle TfUef ea or mmU towDi^ rafaM of old eaatloi^ 
watdi tower^aad Gothic ateaplaa, moat of which 
•to aeea in the moat roaBamle fSnrma Im ag hieWe 
•wlog to the extnMrdiiiary windlnga of the rfrer. 

•teaflKra leave CoUents ercry momfaig for 
Trerca performfaig the joamej in a daj and a 
half and come down from Trarea to Coblenti^ 
inlOlumra. 

An agreeable waj of vWtinf tte moat pio- 
tnretqne spoU ia to take a ateamer op the rirar 
to any choaen ipot fltTorably aitDatedfor melrinf 
excnniona inland, and then ratorn to the aame 
or iome other Tillage to take the up or down 
atetraar. Or the traTeller may make agreeable 
fxcnraiona bj leaviog the ateamer occaalonally 
at iatenrala» aa tt approacfaca the benda ci the 
river, and then by taking the road acroaa 
the pointa he win frequently obtain beantifol 
Tlewi from the snmmiu of the bills, and then 
come to the point where the steamer will airive 
and take him up. 

The traveller, however, should prevlonaly ascer- 
tain that by so doiog be will lose no finer scenery 
on the river. 

After leaving Coblentz the first place worthy 
of notice ii Moselwelas on the right bank, where 
there are large public gardens. Above thisvillage 
rise the fortifications of Fort Alexander, one of 
the advanced forts of Coblenta, situated between 
the Moselle and the Rhine. 

Further on we pass on the left the chnrdi of 
Hettemich, the village of GiiUs, with its twfai 
spires; then village of Ley on the right,and that 
of Winningen on the left; after which we come 
to Diebelioh on the right— a place said to have 
been baimted by witches in former ttanea. It to 
a pretty spot and is pleasantly sitoated In a 
ehanning part of the river. 

Cobem on the left bank, to situated at the point 
where the NodbMob tUJ§ Into the Moselle. Th 
AiOe behind the town art orowned ^th two 







derives its 

acroaa to exact ten fron the boats gnlf ap or 

down the liver. 

Aiken, on the rig^it^— An old town oaanieM 
by aeveral towers with ScUooa Tuna—a |lo- 
toreaqae old eaatie sitaated OB the helghliabofe. 

BordentedL— Varthflr 190B the aame side to 
sitaated at the entrance of Ehrenbach, a atrean 
wUdi to from a singular ravtaM^ no one should 
omit visiting. At the commencement thto.go«ge 
to narrow, darfc^ and gloomy, but aborts expands 
into a c harmiu g valley, with verdant meadows 
and vin^arda, atreama, and water milb, &e ,tha 
parspective in front being doaed by a rocky 
barrier on the hci|^ of whidi atanda the castle 
oi Ehrenberg, said to exod in beaa^ any other 
castle on the Rhine or Moedle. 

We next paaa Wortzei^iirt on tho left and 
further on the same side the castle of Bis^oft' 
stein, belonging to the Archbishop of Treves. 
Then MoseJkem a village at the entrance of the 
beautiful vale of Els. 

If the traveller lands at Moidkem, croaaes the 
hill or atrikes across the hei^its along the side 
of the glen, he will obtain several fine view% 
and then pasaing through the romantic vaU^ 
of the Elz, visit the picturesque and intereatlng 
old cutle of Els, reputed to be the beau ideal of 
a feudal fortress of the middle ages. 

The travdler can then return by the road 
direct to Join the steamer at Garden, a village 
charmingly altuated In one of the sweeteat ^oti 
of the Moselle. 

Frooeedtaig on we next pasa TVeic, on the right 
side, situated within an amphitheatre of hills, on 
which there are two castlea. Clotten on the lefi^ 
a small village with its church on the hill and the 
ruins of an old castle. The next plaoe wo oome 
toto 

CoeJ^em^^Hotelsa De L'Uidon; Corareidi's; 
Romisdier Konig. Thto to an ancient town of 
y^ Vii&»atASQNEte« vA i3cA dtotanl yiUm of i^ 



AnSKDIX. 



let 



defended oy two eesUei •& the liilli behind is 
exceedingly prepoeseerfng and attnettve^ but the 
traTeUer will be diseppointed in Tliiting It, m tlie 
streets are narrow and dirty, eren more so than 
the otho* towns on the Moselle. 

A number of Tillages and small towns of no 
IMOticnlar note are passed until the steamer 
reaches Punderiekf a TiUage on the right bank. 
Travellers intending to viiAt the interesting ruins 
of Marimbmrg should land on the opposite side 
of the river. The view from ahiU near the ruins 
affordaone of the finest proq>ects on the Moeelle, 
embracing four different bends of the river, and 
forming a q»Iendid panorama. Befreshments 
can be had at a small inn within the ruins. 

Betuming to Ptmderieh the steamer proceeds 
past the villages of Emrieh and Starkenbmrg on 
the right bank, and then arrives at Trdben on the 
left. Sun Hotel classes the best. A diort dis- 
tance higho* 19 on the right bank is 



TroboGh, a town of ],S0O inhabitanti^ wbera 
the steamer remains during the night. This 
town resembles Cochem in the beauty of in 
position, which is eztremdiy picturesqm^ and In 
the dirty unwholesome appearance of the aUeeU. 
It is situated at the mouth of a vall^t and Is 
endrded by a range <tf bins or mountain*. Tba 
castle on one of these enmmands the tifm 
entirdy. 

Between IVabadi and Tk«ves tfie ieeneiy hi* 
comes lesv beautiAi], and the villages and towii^ 
with the exception of BemcasUe^ devoid of 
interest. 

BemeasOe — Hotel Drel XSnig. A town ef 
9^000 inhabitants. The situation of this town k 
so line that most travdiers would be tempted to 
stop and vidt it, whidi we advise them notto d*^ 
as it is both dirty and badly drained. 

The steamer soon after readies the fine AH 
dty 0^ T^ves, described at page 131. 



. : i 



'I 



; i1 



INDEX. 



FAGK. 

A ^W mrttt«i n Ttti'tTitT'T-- -*- — '*** 

AClWni ••••••••••■•••••■■••••••••i^ 49 

AeUre ^.......» 22 

Aerataot 67 

AHrvomont M 64 

Aix-im-Gl apellc..^ 71 

Town HaUt72; Environs, 73, 
Libraries, 73; BfaBical En- 
tertainments. 7'^; Publo 
Insti utfons,74; FMnuenade 
and Ezeaniona, 74. 

A 'ken 61, 160 

A'ort 13 

At Breis«cb 146 

Alsei l'?4 

A may 63 

Ainp«in •6:^ 

Andennes 51 

Aiidernadi 99 

Andiuicq 3 

Ans -64 

Antereauue 60 

Antwerp 2\ 66 

AppenweiT 144, 161 

Appollinaibberg ». f8 

Ardrea » .3 

Arhellgen 133 

Arlon 67 

Armentierea m..^..^ 

Ainane Hi 

Arubeiin .^ 90 

AaamaDhauien 104 

Ath 16 

Attenhoren 61 

Attre 16 

Anerbaeh 137 

Audeghem IS 

Auffiea 146 

Auvelais 48 

Baoharah .^....^ 108 

Baden-Baden 147 

Hot Springe, 147; Neue 
Trinktaalto, 148; Prome- 
nade and ConTonatlon. 
bans 148: Reftaorant, 148; 
Parish Choroh. 148 , New 
Palac*, 149; Post Office, 
149: Bxenrsions, 149; Alte 
8chlosi,160i Liohthenthal 
16J. 



PAOS. 

Badenweuer •••••••••••••••••• M* 146 

Dauueni ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• o 

Bane ^•••••••••••••■••(•••••■•••••dS 

Bary Lease ....16 

Bascoup M 82 

Basle 147 

Bastogne 67 

tfeanme 69 

Bees...... 60 

Bellem 82 

Bendorf 101 

Benrath 92 

Bensheim 137 

Beratersem 64 

Berchem .^ .66 

Berlin 92 

Bemcastle 161 

Berttich 108 

Bersee 09 

Beveren 66 

Bexbach ..124 

Bieberach ^ 162 

Bieberich .» 114 

Bienrliet 24 

Buderich 91 

Bingen 110, 120 

Biaseiihem 81 

Blackwall 23 

Blanc Mlsseron 47 

Biankenstein 91 

BloBmendael ^•^2 

Blumberg -163 

Bois-du-Luc ^ 

Bommel »..m 89 

Bondorf....^ 165 

Bonn 96 

Untrersity, 96; Minster, 96; 
Mttseum, 96; Botanic Oar« 
dens, 96; Excursion to 
Kreoxberg, 96. 

Boppart. 106 

Bordenbach 160 

Boug 46 

Bouges J60 

Bousvu »...47 

Bracque^cs 69 

Bralne-le-Comte 17,47 

Branbach ^ .^106 

BreUle 87 

Breurich •.«........•.•• ......69 

Bxwilirim Ul 



Brohl 

BmOfaSal Ma.a**M.MM«*«MMM«14l 

Bmehl • •..•.••..•...M«..».m8B 

BraRes.....^...» .....19^ M, tl 

Cathedral, 20*; C^ur<te, 91^ 
31; Hc8piu1,2];; Hotel-d». 

yiUe,21 ; Palais- de.JiiBtiflib 
21; Tonr-des-Hallesk 21 1 
Aeademj of Paintingib 22; 
Muienm,22. 

Bmgdette 16 

B: uhl 96 

Brussels U, 61 

EnglUh Directory of,S9, Bml 
Square, 32,98; Park, 32: 
KinR's Palace 33,84 Uailcry 
of Paintings, 33 ; Palace of 
the Prince of oramie 88; 
ChamberofBepresentatlTee 
83; Museum, 88 V«nlee 
Collection, 83; Frendi 
School, 33 } BoTrfjindian 
Librar7,38; Hotel-de-VUle 
84, 38 ; the Place. 84 : Col- 
legiate Chun h 84 Cl«ap«l 
of the Holy Saonunent ef 
Miracles, 36 1 Chapel of 
the Virgin, 86; Square ef 
the Mint, 86; Sablon, 86; 
Church of St Nicolas, St; 
Palais d' Aremberg. 87, 
88; iCUeeVerte, 87; Botani. 
oal Gardens, 37.88; Prison 
des Petit Cannes, 87; 
Theatre Royal 87 ; Pl«r«. 
des.Bisrtyrs,''ji8; Porte-d«- 
Hsl, 38; Post Office 88; 
King's Palaces, 88; Bzoar- 
sions,40. 

Buhl 143 

Bohr 76 

Bnkenileld ^ 112 

Bulach .....142 

Bumelde 66 

Burg — lf» 



Cadsand . 
Calais ..., 
Carlsruhe 



........... ...■■«.i..».iii» 

..•.«•..••. .......••If 9 

«..141 

142; Pahm^ Itt; 
Palace Oardtn, 143; 



atmle G«l»8dib 1^; Mo- 
Mom 14S; H<Mpitid, 148. 

CM W I I IIi »»■»«»«»■■■ M l ■■■««»»«»«»»»»«8l 

Oatentt ...... .m.m«..~.m-....180 

wiMm vor > •— m »• —J •• — • » » »»«•«» ••■Oft 

Champion ^.^....^....67 

Cfaarlemont ....m..mm..m«..m60 

Charleroi ..^ m....4A| 48, 69 

Cbfttolineaa ^ 48 

Cbandfoatalne «.m....m.67 

Chenoamp ^.^..^ 13 

Choktor ^ ...64 

Clermont «. «mA8 

%JW^Va #••••...•••••. •.•...•..•.•••••91 
(jOIMbQ ••.•••.•..••(•••••>••■••.••• lOU 

\/OiM0ns •••••••>•. ....(••••••vOi losi 

Clotten M. 160 

Church of Dt. Cactor, 102; 
Palace, 102; Palace of Jot- 
tloe, 102; Caaino, 102: 
FortlflcaUona, 102; Anri- 
roni^lOS; Ezcurtioaf, 101. 

Coffliem...., 160 

Cologne 76,94 

Baa de Cologne, 75; DroAiea, 
76; Cathedral. 77; Preaby- 
tenr, 78: Shrine ct the 
Thf ee Kfaigi, 78; Churohei, 
79, 80; Town Han. 81; 
Theatre, 81 ; Palaeo of Jut- 
tice, 81 ; Hospitala, &c. 81 ; 
Muaeum,*82: House of the 
Tcmpliir8,82|;EkVirona 82. 

Conitanee 163 

Mintter, 164 ; Dominican 
Convent, 164; Hall of the 
Kanf haiia, 164; Excorftiona, 
155. 

Contich 66 

Cons 68 

Corbeck ^...64 

Cortenboeh 61 

Oouillet 48 

Courtray 6,80,81 

Cumptecfa 64 

Darmstadt 133 

Palace, 134; Museum, 184; 
Cabinet of Natural History 
134; Public Library, 134; 
Theatre, 134; Roman Ca- 
tholic Church, 134; Excr. 
cire Haiu, 134; Casino, 
184< Palace Gardens, 184; 
Environs, 134. 

Denzlingen 145 

Dcptford 23 

Deuts 82 

Deynze 7 

Dhaun Ill 

Dbom 76 



PiAk 

PlahaMch ...............M.......160 

vmam ........................ •••..ov 

IHngUngen .••.«.. ........m*... 144 

Doihain m. ..71 

Dollendorf •••...•.•••.m..m».....97 

Donaueediingen m. 163 

Dort 88 

Doasenheim 141 

Douai ....M 4 

Dnffri ...M.. 66 

Dulsburg.... 91 

Dnren 75 

Dnriach 141 

Dosaeldorf 91 

Schools of Painting, 91 ; Uoff. 
liirehe^92; Hol||art«i,9i; 
Excursiona, 92. 

Doaselthal 92 

Dnttweilar. .........113 

Eberstadt 185 

Ebersteinburg 160 

Bblliighem 8 

EoaaBii<es 47 

Edeghem m 56 

Efrtogen 146 

Bich^skamp 91 

Eifel 99 

Elberlleld 92 

Ktlfeld 114 

Els 104 

Emmendingen U4 

Emmerich 91 

Ems 167 

Emptinnes 57 

Engen ..163 

Y ngers 101 

Enghein 16 

Engis * 53 

Enrich 160 

Ensivnl 71 

Erhach 114 

Erenthal 106 

Frfl.den 126 

Erith 23 

Esoheweller -.75 

Esetftlmbourg 16 

Ettlmgen 142 

Kver 61 

Eysingham 17 

Farciennes ^.m. 48 

Fexhe 64 

FeyenoTed 89 

Firbach ..124 

Flamignoui 60 

Fi^malle 54 

Fleurus 46 

FIdne 53 

Floreffd 49 

Plushing 24 

Forbif^h ~ 161 

Forchelm 117 

Forest , 17 



taiBB. 
Fott Almnlitf •••••••MMaM.lM 

jronxDecie ,•*..•... ....•.•.•••■•.•iv 

"rauw ...... .■•..... .••»«...««..«...ev 

rranceres ...... ■■■■■«... ....^...tf 

Frankensthal .....P/f 

Frankfort-on-the-MaiBe 95. 117 
Old and New Town, 118; 
Cathedral, 118: Bom«,lU 
SaathofllS: Bt. ! isiartfi 
Church, 118: StaedJlia. 
leum <tf Ptctnrii^ 118; 
Benzenborg Mnaeam, Ilts 
PubUe Library. I19e Boom 
119; Fairs, 119; BtetM oC 
tlie Ariadne^ 119; ir«MU 
mtnt, 119; ThMtt^ 119| 
Pott Offloe^ 119; OMlMb 
119; Public Gwd«ii,iaB; 
Cemeteriea, 128. 

Fnnietein ..»...»1U 

Freiburg.in-Breiaeaiu........l4f 

Minster, 145, Unhm^y, 145; 

Protestant Clnirdi, 146; 

Kauf bans, 146 ; Ezeonloai 

146. 

Freuedenstadt ....M........M..144 

Friedrich<fetd l.-f 

Friedrichstal ^^JM 

Friesenhelm M......li4 

FrlJsdoif ^ 98 

Froyennes „16 

Gagg«nan 161 

Ueisenheim ........US 

Genappe .^.......^...46 

Gencenbafdi 162 

Gepnersheim 181 

Oemsbach 15I 

Gemshcim 125 

Geroldsau 150 

Cheel :6T 

Ghent 7, 78 

Belfry, 8; CathednL 8; 
Churches, 9.1(^ BdgiuBaiik 
10; EdteUde-ViU^^O; 
PahMe of Jnstloeu 18; 
Palais de rUnivendO^ 10; 
Museum, 11 ; llaiMia dw 
BataUers,ll;LaH«D«i 
Drape, 11; Mahon 
Detention, 11 ; 
d'Armes. 11 : Mardt6 n 
Vendredi, 11; City Oataib 
12; Casino, 12; Cb«del,lS; 
Hospitals, 12; TliMtN^Us 
EuTirons, 12. 

Glvet ^60 

Godesberg ........sOO 

Oondorf. .^1041 100 

Gondorfor-Cobern ^....104 

Gorcum ^80 

Goeseleis .46^47 

Gotiesau „.i4i 

Qou>-lez Piston 47 



I 

\ 
I 



••••••••••MCMtMCMXaSB 

QrMnwIflh m, 98 

Qnrmniuimnk m. f^ftS 

enenttMnthal 146 

Gulls 160 

OntenfeUi ^ 107 

OwosMidi • ,*-Jl 

BMoht 61 

Ha«i1eb«ke^ 6 

Eal 17 

HalmMl 41 

HiBdtduibdMim ^.141 

Bao'Yfir 92 

HanalMka ^ 32 

16 



Banltdi 153 

HatUnlielm ^...1:8 

BAtteiihelm ^ 117 

Battfaigvn 146 

Batset^KMt M.M....104 

Hanpttthol «. 134 

Xt^TCT — »«»»»»»■»«— «»«««««««««»»»» 01 
HSTF6>»««M ••.•••••M.*««*««* 69 

Huebroaek ».... 8 

Hoembe«k,OT«r,aiidll«d«r 61 

Hear ^ 60 

Bddelbers 188 

Unl^rwuty, 138; HnseiuD, 
188; Club«,188; ChoroheB 
of the Holy GhottandSt 
Peter, \ 189; CMtle, 189; 
Tun, 140; Der Geaprtngte 
Thurm, 140 ; Gardens, 140; 
PhUosophers* Walk, 140. 
Hlncbgasse, 140; Kontes- 
thult 110; Exonrslons, 141 

BelnslMcli ^....187 

Belldorf. ^ »m... 92 

Helferoetslali 87 



Heltirsheiin 
Hoppenheim 
Herbetthal . 
BermaHe 



••••••••• 



Heunnnyree .^ 

BlerboUhelm 

Ble>ter.tlehearen 

Hin^sprung 

Hiraenaeh 

Hocheim 

Hosninfen 

B«A«ii-Sieglnirg .. 
HiNnlmrg 



.146 
....187 
.... 71 
.... 6t 
.... 16 
,^ 17 
....144 
.... 91 
....166 
....1U6 
....117 
.... 99 
.... 91 
....168 

Uonnlngen 99 

Borcbhelm 104 

Bornberf 162 < 

Borrem 76 

Hougoomont ^ 48 

Bouiseaa Ji9 

Bove 79 

nUIflogen 168 

Buy 52 



PAOB. 

]Ml*M«MI»*t*t«M*M*t*tM*«««**.*» 138 

Ing^Ouilm 114, IM 

InUoh 100 

Isegheni.oM* «. 80 

Jabeire 19 

Jeounape 64 

Jenunapes 47 

Jonquieres 16 

Jurbise....M..».......«.... 16 



Kalserlantem 
Kaiaenrorth .. 
Ka]s(diearea... 
Kamp....M..... 
Redrieli ......... 

Kehl , 

Kempden ...... 

Kenringen .... 

Kesselhelai ... 
Kester ........ 

Keding , 

Kippenheim 



!•••••• ••••ee**e*«* 



134 
, 91 
94 
106 
114 
151 
118 
144 
IU3 
106 
91 
144 

Kirohhcim-BoJand 12 1 

Knielingen i31 

KoDigsdorf 75 

Konlgsteln 117 

Konigswinter 97 

Kork 161 

Kreoxberg ......m.... 96 

Krenxnaoh Ill 

Krotxingen 146 

La Belle ADianoe .«.. 48 

La Gennette 17 

La Haye Salnte 43 

LaLouvlerre 69 

La Malliene 63 

La Marche 57 

L» Paix 59 

La PUnte 50 

La ProTidenoe 48 

La Verrlere 59 

Landenborg... 187 

Lahnsteln li;4 

Labr » 144 

Landeghem 28 

f^witfti ^ , 84 

Irfindstnbl .. 124 

Laneffe 59 

Langea 138 

Langenbrand « ,161 

Langenbmckea 141 

Langerwehe 76 

Lant«rb«eh 144 

fiawbenhelin Ill 

Lautarberg 181 

Le Troos 68 

I^orcst 4 

Lembeeq „ 17 

Lens 16 

Lendesdorf 99 

Lenxklrch 166 

LeopoldBlMfen..M ......181 1 



M. t 



»»—»»»»— t% 



Uohtervilda.... 

LUge ^Mt fi 

nUaee,64; fl6leld«VUle.M| 

Cathedral 66; OhvelNaer 

St. Jaques and St. Martku 

66;UniTetslty,66s OttudrtLiBi 

i«ei .......... .........••.••.••.••.••iflS 

Lterre.... ................. .«■■»...« ■■ 

Liendeedorf ....m.m«m» 19 

LIgne ■..MM......*.M«M«M M 

Ligny .^. 49 

ua« ^ 

Lins 

Lobtth 

ix^aere n .....................— — . 10 

fionnlntg ...................M.«l<Mk 

L'Olive .«»• 81 

1^00 ••••ea •••••••••••••aveee ••••••••• Vft 

Loroh ».......106 

Lorchansen ^...166 

Loth M.M 17 

LouralnM. ••.•• • 68 

Unlyerslty^2. U6tel.de. ViPi^ 
62 Cathedral. 63; Tower 
of Jansenios, 68. 
ijOTeii|)oui ..*....■.....•...•..•.•. 9% 

Lu'lwigthafkn ^137 

Lnzembourg .....m............ #7 

Madgeborg ......m............. 91 

Mafflei 19 

Malnster ..Ill 

Mal<ieren 19 

Malines 61 

Mabdi 143 

Manaae 47. 59 

Manimetm ...137 

Palaoe, 13S: Jesuits' Ghnreh. 

128; Theatre, 128: Har. 

mony, 128; c:hitcan, 138; 

Bxoorsion to9ch vetsinfaii 

128. 
lCardie-Ies»Dainee.....MM.M 89 
llarcblenDee.an-Pont ...48^99 

Maria Leime m.......... T 

BCarieniont ..•.....•..••m....m 99 

Marksborg 199 

Marie BrJne 44 

liarletange ...m. » 97 

Biayenoe ^...96, 116, 134 

Knrftintliohe Sehloeib 119; 

Cathedral. 116; Chnrehei 

of 8t.8teplien and 9t. Igna. 

tins, 116; Mnsenm, 119; 

Town Library, 117; PakUo 

Gardens, 117; Tower o( 

I>mra% 117. 
MeohBn ...... •••..■•m..mm14, 59 

M^Iem .M. 97 

Melle 19 

Melibootts .M ..m..m189 

Menin m..... ..••.«...... ....»• 81 

Merode -^ 79 

Merxg 



PAOB. 

Merxpbs M 

If esMn rErdque 16 

Mectlaoh t.120 

HeU .; 124 

MtddlalNirg 3i 

Mtedoi 92 



Mittalheim 



••••••■•• •••••••••••• 



118 



KodftTe ^ 63. 

MonrepM m. lOl 

Mom ..^ 4% 83 

Ifontigny i 

Montlgnj-tor-Sambre 48 

MontoiMaiii Ill 

Vorialme 69 

SConumerlt ^ 49 

Monehhelm 134 

MoMlkem ln4, 160 

MoMlwelM 160 

Mount St. Jetn 43 

Movueron 5^ 16^ 16 

Moustier 49 

Mugenitunn 142 

Ifv^ebn ^ 93,146 

MuUiofen 101 

Hongendoif 75 

Ifunstw.Maifleld 108 

Muttentadt 129 

Muyiar^ 61 

Namdche 61 

Namedy 99 

Namur 44, 49, 69 

Cathedral, 49; Church of 

St. Loup, 42; Ch&t«an,49; 

Citadel, 4^, Fairs, 60. 

Naflsaushoftf 98 

Nazareth 7 

Keckar-Steinach ^ 141 

Neiler-Anwerler 58 

Neider-WaUuf 114 

Nelderfell 104 

Veiderolm 124 

Keiderspay .....*. 106 

Neiderwerth .101 

KtBsoDTanz .^.68 

Neu Eberstetai ^ 151 

Neuenburg 146 

Neuenhrim 141 

Nenndorf 101 

Neunklrchen 124 

Neu»8 92 

Neuweid 100 

Neiden'Schopfheim 144 

Neiderbreldg 99 

Niedhegan 76 

Kiersteln 126 

Nleurkerke ^66 

»iotty 82 

Nirein 76 

Nivelles 45 

Nothhausen 101 

Mymegen 89 

OberbrelBig 99 



O b w b t MOP 



PAOB. 

...:iM 



OberlalmitelB ....„...^ IM 

Oberwerth 104 

Ob erw ea al 107 

^■Morwun^v ••••••■•••••••••#•••• •••^V 

OboQM. • •m8S 

vlloBDACu •••••••••••••♦••••••••••XSS 

Oflienlmrg 144, 162 

Offo*s Borovgh 144 

argenhdm »......13T 
brenok 99 

Ombret 68 

Ooa „ « 143 

Ooatoamp .^33 

Oppen 144 

OppMihelm 136 

OrlinTiUt 80 

Orschwoter «...»144 

Oraoy .....m.91 

OrtenHurg ^...162 

Ottend i 18 

Ostenqpay 106 

Ottweller 113 

Oudenarda 7 

Ougr6e.... 66 

Pamen ^ 138 

Pempelfoit m93 

Pepenster « 6S 

Perenchles — 8 

Petershausen 168 

Pfafren<)orf 96 

PhilUpsburg 131 

PUttersdorf. 96 

Pont-a-Celies 47 

Poppeladorf. 96 

Pump 75 

Punderich ^....161 

Quaregnon 47 

Quatre-Bras 4S 

Qulevrain 47 

RadolfseU 163 

Raismes 4 

Bamersdorr 96 

Ramillies 46 

Raodegg ...~.... 153 

Rassellutein 101 

Rtatadt 143 

Ranouthal «. 114 

Re«8 91 

Remagen m.98 

Remicourt 64 

Renehen 144 

Renneberg 101 

Rbbinbreitbach 98 

Rheiauaoherof 98 

Rhense 106 

Rhinefels 106 

Rhurort m. ..91 



Rouaouz 



UadbShriageD.... ki..«Jtt 

Bif^et... .......144 

MXppOtQttXL .........«......a....l4A 

Roisdoif .........«....^M.....M.JB 

Rooaldiedc...M«...M....M.M...JV 

..... JSi 

RothenftlB. m. ...».m160 

Bottordam ST 

B«ib«ix «..A W 

Bonkn ..........JO 

"*"*" — ~ 1»- - i« i ».».»i.i ■■i4ff 

Rudeaheim ....US 

Roppoldaan ...Ut 

Ruyibroeck .^.........17 

»MM........«»n.M«€l 



SMvtirudcai., 
SMtburg ..... 
Saarkmia 



St< AdolplM. 
St.D«mia ., 
8t.Ghiriata. 
St. uoovgm ... 

St. Goar 

St. Goriiauaoi 

St. Hubert ..... 

StI 

St.N! 

SUOaMr. 

St Trond 

Salaig 

Sanbaoh 



....^......113^ 131 

120 

136 

*..*...*.......M.193 



- 7 

..•■•..••.........lOB 

..106 

i«..*.a....M. IVw 



141 

... ..66 

61 

106 

,143 



teyanthem 44 

8<^affhan8en 163, 156 

Sehallsta' t IM 

Schelle-Belle 13 

Schiedam 87 

Sohievstein .....114 

Sehifferstadt 1 9 

SchlauRenbad 114, 159 

Schliengen 146 

Schdnmunznarh 151 

ScbwMlbach 159 

Schwaz-Khelndorf 95 

Sclaigneaux m 

8clef»in ^4 

Sechsem 9s 

Sedm 4 

Seoopst 61 

Seneffe 47 

Seraing 54 

Shaerbeck 61 

Shildouk ^.61 

Singen IM 

Sinzhelm uj 

Sbisig 99 

Sobemheim m 

Sodon 117 

Soigoles 17 

Somain..'.!. 4 



8oiiilicffB«**«M****M.**«*«*»***»46 

Spa ~ 68 

MiiMridSpriii8a^68,<»; Fro. 

men*ica,71 

fitamniheim 92 

Spires. «. 129 

Cathedral, 130 ; Hall of Anti. 

qaitie8,130; RitsolMr, 131; 

HarmoDj, 131. 

SUrkenborg 161 

Sletnkerke 17 

Steenwendi ^ 3 

Steig U6, 156 

Btemrurth 57 

8tolb«rir 76 

atolianfds. 106 

SmOmrg 131, 151 

Cathedral, 131 ; Chnrdi of 

St. Thomas, IS^ Aoademie 

Boyala, 132; Pablio U. 

brary, 132; Theatre, 133; 

Fl'omenade, 133; Ananal, 

133; SToasofiie, 183. 

Straseeie 6 

Btatgaii.^ 144 

Svlsborg ^ 146 

oHiDeva ...•.«•......••.•«. .....••.40 

Swenningen m..* 162 



Tamfaiea ..., 

Ttaipleinre 

Tennonde 



.48 
.16 
.13 
.24 



T£te de Flandre m... 79 

Tbeux ..........M«......M....68 

ThieL 89 

Thielt ..........M » 7 

»—■»■■■■»»«>»««— f «»——9v 



Tlnliii ....... 

TiDenr ....... 

Tilly 

Tiriemont . 
Tonrooing ,. 
Toomay .». 
Traba<di ... 

Traben 

Treia 



PA«I. 

•.•....•■47 

.... 64 

46 

64 

6. 16 

16 

161 

161 

, 160 



Trerea 68, 121 

Triberg ^ 152 

Tubiae 17 

Tumhoat ^....67 



Utttergrombaoh 



.141 



Yedrin.... 
Vehn .... 
Vertrjek. 



••••••••••••••••••vV 

61 

, 64 

Veeterloo ^ ^ 57 

Vienz Diea. 66 

VUlengen 152 

yUrwde •.M..M...15, 61 

Vlrier L'Agnean »^...,jyi 

viaardingeii .........m...m..m»o7 



Waereghen ...MaM*. 6 

Walchmen 24 

Waloonrt. 48 

Waldorf 96 

WaUera 4 

Wallerthtioi lOi 

Waremme 64 

Warftisee 54 

WewerbllHg 68 

wT asarioo ...........................av 

Watraiooa ^t.. ■—»....■>..»— m..«.io 



wra ii ett......... .—... H I ■■■■■■■■■■■» 9 

iw aTre f lenria ......... «■»■■. ..a^p 

wreiDery.... ................. ......awa 

w« euuieiu ................. .......aW 

WwkkgarteB .......M............141 

Wei8senbaaiM.M«.......MM.Maln 

nr eiaeeiiihuiii ..................iU 

WtfUnidi .............MM..... 

Warden • ..«.< 

rf^99m. ........»...................>. ™ a 

fVeaimaei ....................... .^w 

Wes^laer ...flV 

Wetlem IB 

Wicbden IS 

Wiesbaden ^...Ut 

Wiealodi m....»....141 

wnumigwi ••••••••••M««e«»*«««lGS 

WolfMh ..Ut 

Woolwldi a 

Worms .........mISB 

Cathedral, 126; Synagogue 
126 ; Comitiy roand— 
Excnrsiooa to, 126, 127. 

Worrstadt. ...134 

Wortzenfort •••.m.....m.....1M 

Xanlhwi m* •....m.m..m tt 

I ourg .................. .........lov 

XprCS ......>.■...>..■.............> mm 

iTOir M.M. .MaMSMa 9$ 

^eU.......... .................. .....aPBI 

mODS ••. .......................... 9M 

Zoid BeiTeiand«».iw.i«»...M... 9a 

ZwyH drech t m 79 

Zwlnganbarf •««•• 



S[libfrtfdfmfnts(« 



AMSTERDAM. 



BLACK'S DOELEN HOTEL, situated in the centre of the town, and most 
eonfOTtont tar yfattora — pli— art er bwtoew. It oommaiMli >ipleDdld idwr of the Qiwyi, Iw., 
and iMlag ooadaoUid on a Uborol moIo, tt it H^troniMd bf tho Mgboit oloMeo of ■ooMj In Boltaaitf. 
It is alio mueh firequonted 1^ BngUak tmnUen for tho oomfort ond lint nto aooommodotloa It 
alliorda, as well as for tho InTariable otvUltj shewn to Tialtort. Cold and warm baths may bo had i* 
any hoar. Oarrlagoa for Uro— Table d'hoto at taalf-paat 4» or dinner I la oarte. 



ANTWERP. 



HOTEL ST. ANTOINE; Mr. SomuDT Spabnhoybn, Proprietor.— Thft 
English NobUitj and Gentry are respeotftiUy Informed that thw will find this estabHahMOBt 
daserrlng Us European reputation, and equal to the first daas hotels In Eqglsndi combining oomftrl 
with superior acoommodatloa. It Is Immediately oppodte the Cathedral. 

OTEL DU PARC; Mb. Arbabft, Pn^rietor.— This old-established iind 
ihvourlte house Is situated In the {deassntest part of the town, facing the CatbedraL and not 
door to the General Post Office. It has been recently refitted, and el^antly ftumlihed throaghont^ 
and greatly Improved In vnrj respect, to render It a comfortable and suitable hotel for RngMsh 
IhmlUes, or slagle travelers visiting or pasiiag through Antwerp to or from the Rhine. Mrs. AitasBrr 
befaig English, r«q^ectfully assures KngUsh toorlsls they will find her hotel a highly oomfti>tahi» 
agreeable, and respe ct a b le r es id e nc e. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



HOTEL DU GRAND MONARQUE.— DREMEL'S HOTEL, at Aix-La. 
Cbapxixb.— This magnificent hotel, for famlUes and sIngUi trapdlera, continnes to maintaim 
itt European reputation for being the favoured residence of travelers of all nations. The proprletaTt 
Mi. Fsitz D&kmkl, obtained this unusual patronage by the deanlioess and comfort of his mpvtxa&ulM 
(all the beds being of new construction), the richness and exceUeoce of Us viands and winea. added to 
ttie attention and dvllity ef the attendants The first Mineral Bath EatabUshment is attached to th» 
hotel. 



HOTEL NUELLENS.— First rate—fiure excellent— charges moderate— in an 
afary and deUtrbtftd sjluailon. fsrtng the Eliaa Fountain, with its garden and pabHc pcowmidafc 
36 pleasant apartments have just been added to the hotel, Aimlshed in the latest style with al the 
modem improvements Public and private purlmars. Bn^lih and Frendi q^en. Mr. Mndkn 
ftumishes whies for eitportation. 

BADEN-BADEN. 

BATHS OF BADEH-BADEH. 
THE SEAS0N COIfllfTlSNCES THE 1st OF MATt 

And continues to the 81st of October. 

THE OFFICIAL IiIST^«<2^ Bads Blatt AnUlicht FnmdmLitUT Mham 
thatmof than fifty thousand tourtsta,belongfaig to the highest nasMBS of sodetj^^liltr 
Baden every year. Railway from Paris to BadSft»Badi fas 14 bowrt. IIM 
CbnMMntoI OvMe of August, 1866, page 378. 



APySBTtaiFMfnXTB, 

.^ i.js BBsesss: . i i ""• * . -= 



BADBN-BADBN-Contlnned. 



HOTEL DE HOLLANDE.— F. A. Zachmann and A. RoESSEiiEE, Pro- 
prietors. Situated on a rising ground, 'with a delightful view of the Old Castlai, the Walki, 
and Nutnery Tower It is close to ue Kursasl, and conttlns more than a hundred chamben md 
sitiinv rooms, a large diniog room, and splendid gardens. Particululjr renowned for the superior 
quaii^ of its wines. This Hotel is one of the handsomest and best conducted of all ContfaMotil 
Hotels. Moderate fixed charges for eve^thiag. Breakfiut, 86 kr. Tea, 42 kr. Dlnaer at the 
Table d'hote, at one, including wine, 1 fl. 12 kr. Dinner at five, ezdnslTe of win^ I fl. S6 kr. Used 
moderate charge for serrante. 



VICTORIA HOTEL.— F. and Ph. Grosholz, Proprietors.— Although only 
opened since the month of June. 1853, it is one of the best establidimenta on the -OoatfeMBt 
The Hotel is a beautiful building near the Kursaal, with twenty-slz balconfea and two tuzreli. II 
eontsins 140 chambers and sitting rooma for families and single persons, newly and moat elegBillj 
ftimished. An excellent Table d'hote, prompt attendance, cleanllnrss, and modaimto tiuurges^ very 
hlghl» recommend this Hotel to all trareUers. Table d'hote at 6 o'dotdc, at 1 fl. 86 kr. withoiit vfaie. 
Breakfast, 36 kr. Tea, 42 kr. Restaurant, where breskfksts, dinners, and wapftn, nuj bo heitt 
all hours. 



HOTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE, (Badischbe Hop). — Krst-rate ; 
excellent Table d'hote at une and five ; baths at the Hotel; extensive and splendid n^^*"! 
quiet and oomforfcable. Landlord, A. Rheinboldt. 

BONN. 



THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, patronised by the English Royal Family, 
the English Nobility, and Gentry, is the nearest Hotel to the Railway and tho i^wiHfwg ^mm 
of tiie Steam. boats, and commanding a most superb view of the Seven Mountaina. Tho iipiitioeiilii 
are furnished and carpeted in the best English style, and tha charges are moderate. Advantageoos 
arrangements can be made, by single persons or Families, for Board and Lodging during the Vnatar 
months. 

GRAND HOTEL ROYAL.— One of the best in Europe, combining every 
English comfort, with moderate charges, situated on the Banks of the Rhine, the nearest te 
the Steam-boat and Railway Station, with a magnificent English Garden, and oommanding a boantlM 
view of the Seven Mountains. 

HOTEL DE TREVES— A very nice and cleanly kept house. Situated in 
the Markf t-place, facing the Town Hall. Good Table d'hote at one o'clock, preiwrod by a fliai- 
rate French Cook. Good attendance and low charges. The landlord, Mr. Wiadsohinldt, spneti 
English, and will be happy to make English travellers ai comfortable as possible. 

^ _ ._ _ _ , • 

BREMEN- 

HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.— This splendid, first-rate Establishment, dtuaied 
on the Boulevards, near the Railway Station, the Exdiange, and Theatre, ofT^va ozoellent 
accommodation for families or single travellers, and is renowned for good cuisine and winea^ ai vdl 
as for reasonable charges and prompt attendance. 

HILLMAN'S HOTEL.— This magnificent and large hotel, which is the first 
in Bremen, is situated on the most beautiful part of the public walks, in the inunediate viefariti 
of the Railway Station, the Exchange, and Theatre; containing 100 bed rooms, elegant aelooo^ioii 
bathing rooms. A handsome Reading-room is attached to the hotelf whU» is tonplied witfi • 
mlection of 36 EngUah, French and German newspapers. 



ADTERTISEKRNTS. 

BRU SSELS. 



HOTEL DE FLA.NDRE, Place Royale.— This old-established and hiafhly- 
reoommended hatcl ia still conducted by Madame Bastbn. Its situatioii in the Place RoyaM^ 
the excellency of the table d'hote and wines, added to the attention and civility shewn to all Yisitin«» 
bare made it deservedly popular. It ha« been greatly enlarged, and can now accommodate ft large 
number of families in a very superior manner. 

HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, PLACE ROYALE.— This hotel, second to none in 
Europe for situation, elegance^ and comfort contains large suites of apartments, sump'uoiis^ 
ftimished for families, fitted up with every possible conventence, and good bed-rooms weU-Hghted, 
ventilated, and scrupulously clean. During the winter, arrangements are made with families for Doard 
and lodging according to agreement. Private dinners at ail hours. An excellent table d*hdte trit 
rechercti^ at five daily. ( 

HOTEL DE FRANCE, Rub Rotale, facing the Park.— Miss Porter, the 
Froprietresi, respeotftklly tenders her grateful thanlcs for the patronage she continues to bo 
honored with; and begs to assure travrllers visiting Brussteb, it is her constant study to render ib« 
Hotel de Prance worthy of its reputation It has been considerably enlarged by the addition of the 
adjoining bouse, which has been fitted up in a superior manner for the accommodation of famfliee or 
single persons, and which can be hired separately during the winter months. The Proprietress exer- 
ebes the strictest surveillance over every part of her establishment. She is likewdse particularly 
anxionw to nrotect visitora during their sti^ at the hotel from being im|iOsed upon by Uommiasioneri^ 
&c. Table d'hote at 5. 

HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Place Roy ale.— This unrivalled Establishment, 
under ttie superintendence of Madame De Pboft, maintains its European reputation, and re<r 
commends kself to the patronage of the Nobility, Gentry, and Travellers indiscrimhiately of all 
countries. Carriages belonging to the hotel may be had for visiting the town, or for excursions in 
the environs. 

THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 79, RUE NEUVE, 

OHITE OF TlUB BEST IN BELGIUM, 

Is admirably situated near the Boulevards, Theatres, and Railway Stations, and offers to 
families and single travellers spacious, comfortable, and airy apartments, newly ftimished 
and decorated. There is also a garden for the use of visitors. The Table d'Hote and 
Private Dinners are excellent. 

Fixed Pricbs.— Breakfast, 1 fhmc Table d'Hote at half-past four o'clock, 3 firancft 
Sitting Rooms, 3 to 5 francs. Bed Rooms, 1^ to 24 francs. \Vines of first-rate quality 
aud good attendance. From the Ist October, famines can be accommodated with boara 
and lodging during the winter months, at exceedingly reasonable terms; living as privately 
with an the comforts, and other advantages, not to l)e had at a boarding house. 

The Reading Room is supplied with Foreign Newspapers, including the London Times 
and New York Herald. 

E. EEEVANB, Proprietor. 

HOTEL WINDSOR, 14, Rue de la Regence, Place Royal. This Hotel 
is situated in the healthiest part of Brussels, and deserves the attention of travellers for Stf 
cleanliness and moderate prices. Bedrooms from I to 2 francd, according to tilie floor. GomfortaMe 
iHlMTtrnvnts, consisting of a saloon with 1, 3, or 4 bedrooms, from 6 to 10 flrancs per day. BreakfiMti, 
comprising tea or coffee, bread and butter, eggs or cold meat, 1 fr. 25 ets. Dinner at Table d'hote^ 
2 fr. 60 ceits. 

HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE, Place Rotalb, has a handsome 
aspect and is situated taa the best part of Brussels, nesr the Park, the Museum, and all the 
great publio eatablishments. Large and small apartments, elegant^ Annlshed, affording ereelleol 
aoeommsdadon fof families with children, at very moderate prices. Good Otiitine, 



BOAKDISa and LOUGTSO HOUSE. Uma. HATDON^ UdilT 

HORTON'H PRINCE OF WALES- Engliali Taran aod Cliop4iou& 
Km Vilte.IfanbMtt; th* «nt strMton the rfskthMd ia Aslb^acneM la ~ 
frM» th* Mae* ft4>f al. l»oap, Banp tlMkt, tad Chofs at all 
ll«li AUtflod roritrosdranffhi Goodi 
for Um 'M/ttmkf 




LACE >LAiNUFACTORT.— Ladies desirous of pnidiasiiig the gemdiie Braaeb 
m4 Valcadcniio U«e. or M Mfalfn Point, wn Uvttei to vkit Ao rrlfiwiiil Tilitilhiwiii 



of Mr, VAMDEftKBLKH BftESf05, No. S48, and Ho. 1, 

ffc C/ttdoU, vbcro Cbojr may wftnwi fhe proecai of 

Itumlnf an unrirallod Stock of Rojnl Black LofOC^ and varioaa arttcl« 

nutariMy at flxod prfflif. Mr.V B.istlieroelpfemortliePriaalfadal«rtfaoGrertEzhibitloii.aadtht 

Oold Modal of thoIMffaaOoTeniawot. VMtoraiboqIdbepartieakr inaotinialaldDc thaHMn.ar 

eonllMiadiiif tlUa EftaUbhmont with others, wtaSdk inaj be eak^ anrfd^ 

Mr. V. B. waaalw awarded tlie First Claas Modal at the Fnia gwKiiJH^^ 



TtTR. ALEX, IIOXORARY SURGEON-DENTIST TO HIS IfAJESTT 

JjX LEOPOLD, KING OK TUB BBLG1AII8, 

No. 8, Place BolUard, o|>poaite the Fatfc at Braoie*a; and at 
No. 81, Neir Bridge Street, Blackfriars, London. 

Mr. Alrz has the the honour to iaform the public that firom the nnmber of jears ha haa bea In 
imMtiet, tie has been enabled to Introduce many improrements in his Art (approTedof bjtke tua^\ 
amonf which he bat of late taken out a Patent for a sjBtem of placing ArtiSeial Teeth wfUMmt wins 
or ligatures of any description, which surptsses anyt»>iog known iq» to the prcfent period. Thcae 
Tettto being of compoiition are warranted never to decompoae or change cokwr; and they are ao 
accurat<:ly a4apud to the gums es to defy the closest scrutiny. Mr. Alex's sjstem ef rcgnlating 
teeth during second Dentiii"n k ackriowle^lged to be the moot rapid and the moot «*<W/»^fjqiM * as by 
his method he Is enabled to effect in one week quite as great a diange as caa he accompliahed'by the 
old nifihod In three months. 

Htopplng Teeth with Gold or Cement, Cleaning, Extracting, and every op«ratl<» appertaiidnc to 
the AK of Pental Hurgery and mecbanism, is performed upon the mo»t appr<»Ted and ■*'*t',tH^ 
prlnoiplc*,— No. 8, Plac<i 15eUiard ; at home from Ten till Four daily. Contloental Charges. 



CARLSRUHE. 



n'^IIK GOLDEN CROSS HOTEL, close to the Railway Station, affords 
exceedingly good accommodation, and excellent Refrerhments at moderate pric s : these, com- 

billed with cloanllausSigoodattendance, and superior wines, render this Hotel an agreeable resldenoe 
fur Travellers. tablx d'hotx at 1 ako 6. 



COLOQN E. 



HO I EL DISCI T, Hituatod m Bridge Street. A first-rate house, very highly 
rt*oomro«i(lod aa combining good accommodation with moderate charges. The proprietora 
MvMlours DiloU ft OAPKLLAN, keep a Urge assortment of the best stock of Moeelle Winea ibr 



COIiOONB— CMmtlnned. 



THE HOTEL DE HOLLANDE 



B DIUGHmiXT UTUATXD 



OPPOSITE THE STAITING AND LANDING PLACE OP THE 

EfllNE STEAMEBS, 



AKD TB TBS TIOmXTT 



OF THE BERLIN RAZLWAT STATICM^. 

THE Apartments are fomifihed with English comfort, being carpeted 
throughout, and suited to large Families, as well as Single Qentlemen. It 
offers, from its belyedere, built in the yeranda style, as Well as from its window^ 

THE FINEST VIEW OF 

THE RHINE, AND A PANORAMA OF COLOGNE. 

The accommodation will be found to combine comfbrt and cleanliness, a perfeet 
cuisine and exquisite Wines— attentive servants— and moderate chazges. 

OMKIBTTSES AND FBIVATE GABBIAaES ATTACHED TO THB HOTEL 



HOTEL JOOS.— By Mr. JOOS, previously Hotel Fbedbbic, Rue Qaaano, 
and No. 3, Rue Pepin. TUa Hotel has been thik year newly reilored and ftirniahed. It afliordf 
great comfort with deanlinen, and it is situated in the most beautiftil iNut of the city, near the 
Cathedral, only flve minutes' distance from the Rhine. It is the nearest Hotel to the BaUiray Ststiea 
for Bonn. Prices, Lodgfaig 1 fr. 26 cts ; Breakfast, Tea or Collide, 1 fr.; Dinner, Table d'hdte^ 1 o^eloaki 
2 ft. Private Dinner at any hour, 3 fr. Beef steak, 1 fr. French and English spoken. 

FRANKFORT-GN-THE-MAINE. 

I . ji . ■_! I ■ _ _ _ ' -m^ I 

HOTEL OF THE BOMAN EMPEROR. — Proprietors, Messrs. Lohb Se 
ALTEN. This fk?onrlte and first-dais HoteL situate in the centre of this fine city, is conducted 
under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietors, who endeavour, by the most strict attention 
and moderate rates, to merit the continued patronage of English visitors. Breakfast, 36 kr.; Tea, 42 kr. 
Dinner at Table d'hdte, indudhig wfaie, 1 fl. SO kr. Dinner at Five, exdndve of wine, 1 fl. 45 kr. 

FREIBURG IN BRESQAU^ DUCHY OF BADEN. 

HOTEL ZAHRINGHER EOF ^This comfortable Family Hotel, which is 
the first in the town, has a most con'^enient situation for visitors, dose to the Railway Btatioa 
and Cathedral ; it has been greatly improved and enlarged by the present Proprietor, B(r. O. H. Somxbb, 
vrlio begs to assore those inio mav honour him with their patronage that they may rely on aoontina- 
anot of Us cndMTOiin to aoiit too same, and to "^<"*^«" tho leputskion of hit E— httrtvtftw 



Airrwn uMMMM ta, 

— ■ i— —^K— =^Z-— ■■■ 

GHENT. 

HOTEL DE LA POSTE.— A first-rate house, situated in the Place d'Armes. 
TlM MOOBimodAtkm tt affords ii both elegant and oomfMrtable. TIm qpartmenti mn ipiokwi 
•Bdaliy, weU ftirniilied and eonvenien^ adapted for large fiuniliea or tingle tnvellen. Mr. PAUwbeia 
to inform the BngUah nobility and gentry ririting Ohenti th^ will find hie eetaMlihment s che urft d 
and reqMOtaUe reiidenoe, ^diere every attention will be paid to their oomfort. An trarilant ^ible 
d'Hdte^ and good Wines, with prompt attendanoe. 

HOTEL DE FLANDBE.— Mr. G. Dubub, the proprietor of this dd- 
estabUshed and ftiToarite hotel, hu the honoor to soqnaint Tisitov to this oitgr Aat his houe 
Ik fitted up with erery regard to oonfort travellers oan desire. Breakfkst, 1 flr^ Tea, 1 fir. dvfl and 
attentiTe serrants. The hotd is sitoated in the centre of the town, doae to all the prino^al bniIdiB«% 
ehnrdies, &e. FUnUies will find it a desirable residence. Large and small apartmenw at modersts 
prices. Adrantageons arrangonents made with families during the winter i 



THE COURT OF BADEN HOTEL ranks amongst the best in Germany, 
situate in the centre of the town, nearest to the railwsy station, commanding a beantiftil ^ew 
of the enirirons. The rooms are oomfortaU^ ftuoished for IbmiUes or single gentlemen. Atlendanee 
good, and prices moderate. 



HEI DELBERQ. 



HOTEL DU PRINCE CHARLES, on the Corn Mabkbt, nearest to the 
Castle. We^ the Proprietors, reroeotfully recommend this establishmmit to families nd 
single gentlemen, as being the largest and best situated in the town. It commands beamtifal tIows 
of the Csstle and ^e V'mj of the Neckar; Is light, airy, cheerful, and truly comfortable. It bas 
btien lately re>emoelllshed and re-ftirnished, and Is conducted on a most liberal scale, under the per- 
sonal sui/erintendenoe of the proprietor, Mr. Franv. 

THE EAGLE (or ADLEB) HOTEL, in the Grande Place, commands a 
beautiful view of the celebrated castle of Heidelberg, and surrounding country. Travellers 
visltiiig this highly interesting town will find this house ererytbing desirable The London Timet 
taken In. BatiSs In the hotel Carriages before the door. Table d'hdte at 1 and 6 o'clock. 

HOTEL DE HOLLANDE, conveniently situated in the centre of the town, 
the nearest to the Umding place of the Steam-boats, in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
Neckar, the celelnrated castle, and all the meet attractive points of view. Quiet, and reasonable 
charges. Strongly recommended for Its cleanliness, civility, and good attendance. 



LI EQE. 



HOTEL DE SUEDE (Proprietor, Mr. Dalimier), one of the finest and 
b«st in Belgium, and the most frequented at Liege, is admirably situated, fkdng the Roysl 
Theatre, the Boulevards, and nearest the Ruilway Station and Steam-boats. Patronised by travelers 
of all nations, it posseasee an excellent cuisine, and is favourably known for its scrupulous <deanlineH| 
good attendance, and reasonable prices. Large and small apartments, combining every dMnestie 
oomfort. Hot batlis to be had at all hours. The dining saloun Is splendid and elegan^ and wdl 
supplied with fordgn newsp^Mra, induding the London Times, English spoken. 

OSTEN D. 



HOTEL FONTAINE.— This Hotel having been patronised by H. B. H. 
Prince Albert, H. B. H. the Duchess of Kent, H. K. H. the Prince Royal of Pnusia, is fre- 
quented by the elite of English and Foreign Society. It Is situated in the Rue Longue. The apart- 
ments are tastefully and elegantly ftimished; they are large and airy; and in general omnmands 
riow of the sea. There Is also a Garden; and the Coffee Room contains a fine collection of Paintiacs. 
A/ier the Brntblag /toas on arrangements are made to Board and Lodge FamHiet on rwiBanabto ' 



08TBNI>~Oontliiiied. 



HOTEL D'ALLEMAGNE.— Qerman Hotel, facing^ the railway station^ and 
oloM to the harbour. Thia flrst-mto Hotel to one of the most po|pii]«r estaJbUihnieBtf oalha 
ContfaMnt; the oharges are moderate, and its table d*hdte to deaenredly oelebrated. Mr. BleiMgit 
Wagner, the Proprietor since 18^ trusts bj nnremitting attention to the comforts of hto gwest% M 
deserre thehr patronage. 

liyTEBTIAN'S KEW HOTEL, close to the harbour, commands a very fine* 
Jj/JL Tiew of the sea. Omnibiues oonv^ passengers from the steam-patftets or trains to thto hoMi 
which to idways open on their arrlTal, and at which the beat of refreahmenta and aooommodation ma 
be had at the foUowfaig moderate pricea. Breakfeat, from 1 ft. to 14f!r.; Tea, Ufr. Table ilwto 
dfamer at 2 e^dock, 2^fra ; at 6 o^dodL Sfra. Mr. Mertlan haTing been honoored for many jsars Willi 
the patronage of Engltoh traTdlera, iniUe oo-proprietor of the Hotel d'Allemagne firom i846-fi8| has 
nared no esqienae to render Ua new Hotel Mertian equal to the beat on the Continent, and worthy 
their Aitore patronage. It to elegantly fumidied throughout **«*"*^«»»f 80 bedrooms, anmeroof 
dtting-rooma^ and a dining-room for 160 persons. 



PARIS. 



H 



OTEL DE NORMANDIE, 240, RUE ST. HONORE.— The abore Hotel 

possesses advantages for travellera rarely to be met with. It is in the Tidnity of the prlndMl 
public eatabltohmenta, in the moat favourable aitnation for pleaaure aa well aa buaineaa, and it to mm 
eonatant idm of the Froprietor to merit patronage by affording every oomfort at the moat moderate 
diargca. Each viaitor may be ftimlahed with a bedroom, breakfast, dinner at table dlidt^ with a 
bottle of good Burgundy wine, at Sa. 6d. and 6i. per day, Indudlng light and aenraata. 

N.B. — Bngliah apoken bj die landlord and aervanta. 

SCHWALBACH (Nassau). 

HOTEL THE DUKE OF NASSAU, 

FBOPBIETOB, J. WILHBLMT. 

THIS First-class Hotel, patronised by the nobility and families of the first 
distinction in England and on the Continent, dellghtftiUy dtuated near ihe mineral apring% 
baths^ and public promenades^ commanding fine view^ of the surroundmg country, consists of suites 
of degantly fturniahed apartments for flunilies and gwitlemen, replete with comfort and reasonable 
diargcs. Wines of the first vintage. The THmm neirspaper and Punch regularly taken. 

STRASBOU RQ. 

HOTEL DE PARIS.— Mb. Diemeb, The Proprietor of this unrtralled 
Bstabliahment renectfhUy offera hto grateful acknowledgmenta to the Engliah Noblllbr and 
Gentry for their oontinned patronage^ and avalto himadf of thto occaaion to aasure Fravellera vtoiting 
Straationrg that no efforta wUi be ^ared on hto part to render their aqjoum at the above Hotd bolA 
comfortable and aatiafiactory. 

GRAND HOTEL DE LA PLEUR.— W. A Doebr, Proprietor. Table 
dlidte at One and Five o'doolu TraveUera will find the accommodation combines etegaaea 
with comfiMrt and prompt attendance. Sxcdlent cniaine and good i^Murtments. Thto Hotel it 
cdebfaled as havfaig been faihablted by the princ^ persons connected with the pr«;}eot of foa 
2lapoleoiiiiil886. SngUsh spoksn. 



ADVXBTimiEim* 



STETTIN. 



HOTEL DE FRIJSSE.— This first-class Hotel has 60 rooms, handsomfllj 
and oomfortaVy flumishwl. Table d'hdte at 2 (/clock. Restaurant & la carte and refeetety 
rimOar to thoae at Hamlmrg, auppljlng hot or cold breakfiurt, compoeed oi all tbe flnilnKiM 9t tta 
Btatrm at any hoar. DepM for bett EogUah oyatere. 

HE EMPRESS ELISABETH HOTEL.—Eaisebin Eubabbth.— Wi^ 

two table d'hdtei, ii well ittaated near 8t. Stephen's square^ and bai both larv* >0d tnall 
apartmento including floe dining, readfaig. and drawing-roonw, with emrftimt batm^ and awj 
modem improTement. English spoken. Attandanoe oaezomtlon^le. COiargea nMkdffwtak CoUIm 
■nperior. Travellen oan obtain every inforoiation at the lanuord's offloa. Fofaign -ytnft lalBHi it 
the rate of exchange. N. B. Herald, London Times, Oalignani, &e. P. Wotiea. ■ Tha Oab ftCM 
from the Tarious stations are fixed bv law; and these will be paid hj the Hold porfat^ and evtand 
into each trareller's account. Caution— Travellers visiting YiiBana for the flzit ttmt, and tnlinilliw 
to stay at the above-mentioned Hotel* are entreated to pay no atteutioii to aav *WK»i*«fl« ^ 
otdeotions, but to insist on their driver really taking them to the aforesaid HoiaL ▲. dad F. Bav 
are also proprietors of the grand Hotel Kalserin E li sabeth aa Ish, Salxtaounergat. 



WALTERS' RAIIsWAY CONVENIENGSL 

THESE most useAil Instmments have now stood the test of experience. The 
inventor, F. WALTERS, can therefore recommend thrm confidently to Eailwaj TraveDai 
and Invalids, as the more they have become known to the public the greater has be«i tha dfrmiH 
They are made entirely of India Rubber, with a patent valve to prevent the eaoapa of tbm HaitL 
They may be worn by ladies, gentiemen, »nd children, both while travelling and in bed, and are 
perfectiy comfortable and imperceptible. Price 158.^ 178. 6d., ^ 208.| Postasej l8. 6d. 

PATENT JACQUAITD IXASTIC STOCKIN«S. 

F. WALTERS begs to invite all those who suffer from weak legs or raricote velna to come and 
examine those bandages, when he will be happy to explain the great advantages which they posse* 
over all other descriptions hitherto invented. The peculiarity of this patent is, Uiat the ftill alastidty 
of the vulcanized India Rubber is not in the slightest degree restrained by the non.elaaticity of the 
silk which is woven with it. They are woven without seam, so that the pressure is perfectiy equable 
over the whole of the surface. They are much thinner thui any ever yet made, and therefon d» 
not obstruct the action of the skin. Manufacturers of Walters' H>droBtatic Truni, &o. 

FREDERICK WAIaTERS, 16, Moor^ate Street, Oitgr. 

N.B -^Entrance for Ladies, Private Door.— A Female Attendant for Ladies, 




NOTIC 

FOUNTAINS, FIGURES, VASES, BALUSTRADING, AND TRACERY, 

AU sizes, manufactured in Imperishable Stone, warranted to stand aU 

weathers. 

Architects and Builders supplied with any quantity of Soffits, Bed Moulds, 

Centre Flower Patreas; Corinthian aud Ionic J^sster Capitals, Trusses, 

Scrolls, and every description of Architectural Ornaments, at 

TWENTY PER CENT. CHEAPER THAN ANT HOUSE in LONDON, 

At 74>, BOROUaa ROAD, 80UTH197ARK. 

N.B. — An illustrated Pattern Book, with List of Prices and Sixes of eaoh 
article, sent Free by Post, on receipt of thirteen postage stamps. 

3013^ ^^t&riB.,¥to9ti«tor. 




FLAVEL'S ntIZE KITCHENXB. 

l!Iie only Eitclien 'Raiigft wMcli obtained a Prim Kedftl and Bpocial 
Approbation at tiie Great EzhibiticHi, 1851. 





« m th« Hardmra OoHt of tka 



BENHAK and SONS, 

IB, VIQUOSE BTBBXT, 
CAVENDISH SQUARE, 

LANDONi 

Farts BxUliltUin, and the Cryvtal FataM, 



BBADSHA WS COHTIHEHTAL HAND-BOOKS for 1856. 

BBAD8HAW8 (ILLUSTRATED) 

HANB-BOOE OF FBAHCE, 

EI>(uitlT a«imd !d Tnrk«T Bed, Pil« ft, ; Dlnrmed with k 

SPLENDID TRAVELLING MAP OF FRANCE; 

PLAHB 07 THE fSIHOIFAL GITISB, 
CHIEF PLACES OP RESORT IN FRANCE. 



BRADSHAW'S 6UIDE THROUGH PARIS 

AND ITS ENVIRONS, 

PilM ft*, ed. (aciUi).«lth bauUfol 8t«et EDttartaiga, UIiutnllT* of Ibe FXENOH If BTROPOLU, 

A COPIOUS PI.AN OP PARIS, 

WUhSbMtDInetoTT, ■rnnnd in ■ UDrd but ^b|iI« ihle. aoahUnf U>* Rnniar to And hlimrta 
•lIput*wtthimttfaaA|hlaRaiffloiiRT; tBdudinriBplenil]dHipof5i>FmicfaEm^. wtth all tb* 
B*Un7i,«e. Thli endlsnt Hud.bHk to Uie FniMh Httttnolu hw b»M prawwutd iiiuninMa^ 
bf tba Bntlih, CoDtlBtnltl, ud Amsrieui Pregi h b tuM merinnlOM pradBCUOB, wtaMbar It b* 
nnrdid br tha fUU, Our, ud JudMaas campUatlciD, or Ka anioniaand (AiapaMa— ambnofns, u 
tt doa^ not anlT atl that eao tM wen wlltaln thli bMntUU dtr and It! amlroBi, but ■!■■ («r Ow oon- 
pw btBrt u laMCMtloiii H bnparta to btb^ PariiUii tMiot. Etbi Uu of BnMlw^ hrla OoW* la 
not onlr nasTiil, Int nwlj Taiiiili]« Infoniiatlon— ti« asnafil raraartafDrtn — ■■ — —^>— ■»>••» 

lh« muataiikaa ara poattltaly Worki of Art, and tham ' 

-wUaAiOHar Bradiliaw. Ttaa lomiaaa of tke siloa slaca 
Indsa^ tha purdiaaa of tU* Oulda Book irU! gnallT U 

w i^T. J. Anuia {Bridahaw'i BritlA and OontaMiAd QiU* ^An^w^ 
B :— ^BtDutw and Biukmi MIS, 41 ~ " ' »-wii-^ 



Ibt Bpsuaa of a TXIF W 



Al>T«BWgEKWn«. 



TS far superior 



RIMMEC'S TOILET VINCGAB 



■ttlMCtjMlPdM*), 

Eag de Colof;ne, as B Tonic and rettaMtg 

oura.ioriBi juiirt or BMSir— '-■ ■ ■ "' — ^^— 

powerful dlplnfecunl fo~ ' — 






LitiHi, TtuHDM; Mat'^c 




Ir Dj«, ToIIMSoaph 1B_ ,„ 

ContfnflTit from tli« following Agtat^i-^ 

nt; MIe, Borolilwdt! BirUn, LidiHt. BiDJI. 
- -■ riln, WoolbaTt ; /Vwbn, Kreaaar lad 



■■■, S9, OKituiiD SrsnT, I 



IMFBOVED BASIATnrO STOVE OBATES 



simple, cffeotire, Uft economical. 

iTiej- are particulu'ly adapted for 
ver^ cold looma, aud fur Smoly 



Invite attention to tlicir SHOTV 
BOGUS, where may be necii the 
largest and beat selection of Stovc- 
(Jratea, Fenders, anil rire Ironti, for 
Drawing Rooms, Dinint; Booms, Bed 
IIooniB, &c Alan Kitchen Rnnges of 
the most approved construction. 




BENHAM & SONS, 

WieMORE-ST., GAVEXDI5H SQUAf^ ~ 
LOHDON; 

Also m the Hardware Court of the Crystal Palace, SydmHm 

WALTERS' HTDBOSTATIC I^USS. 



mtlJictsd. The tnul hu mot wHb the itrongnt nooimnanduton from Hr. 617 ud atharniii<a 
vhoH attention liu been ipodaUy directed to the inbject of hernia. 

Hknvfactnrcr of Vfalttrm' OelebntteA VLtilxnj Ootivcidmce. 

V^ WALTEUa, 16, ■HLooT«8A» «5t««fe, CitI 



TOUBISTS, TBAVBLI.BB8, 

nd othcn txf OHd to Ika Hochlng nji oT the Bud mud beUtd pinldn or Du^ wDI Ipd 

BOW^LANDS' KAI.TDOK 

L mart refroUDt pnpantloD for tlw covplnloii, dlipclling th« dimd of ItDgnc 
□■TirEiillbiBtuul InlUbJUtT, ud Immidlwdj >SMdlrir iba Blciring iuifUl«iilt(ndlDanMa»d 

,..^^ , i...,.,.^, ^... ^ .k. .V4. ^ . rf ,£,rie«.mtlci of bilumla lUtm, wid &«a 

'~ ' tnU»ih*((itlangf thai^. 

ita ncrMon TWMli. bj sUdi 
i];r proBWtM. FMekka, Tnu, 



teilBlty ud bulibfnl III 



1, KOTLAKOS' KaYtDOB U 
MUn upon tna um, ana M proBoIe Uut bwhbj udm ■ 
• laoml wtU.btini 1^ tht^Bntr of lu kppnniHe an . 

pati, Plmptei, Fhabf*. and IHMiolauiiMn, flj bafOn Hi „ , „.._ . 

nnnrhnm. and tba iImt at baantr asd s( (<*•■■. 1b oana of Huobani, or Sllnii of Intaoi, U 
«tii«ba«aloii|bmii*AiunrM|sd. Frioa to. «d. and «•. M. par bottle. 

Tlia but of taaaaet freamitli coniiDanleatH a drjnMa to tba balr, and a laodBua to (kU oft 
widdi nu; b* oHnplBUlT obTlaud b; tba tua of ■ 

ROWLANDS' niACASSAB OIL, 

k da11shlftill:r Iragrant and truupannt [iniparatka, and, aa in inilgontDr and pnriBaT, btjoni all 
Moadent. Prica i ■■ M. and Ii. Famlljbonlcafaqul toiimallJ,iat.«d.,uid donbla tbatilM,llB. 

Mrisiu (OtCtl of »gf . 
Lj|bt and mondDi, of 



LtuuFok 
l^JlkaWI 

flBTABE 
'■owland 



BO^nriiANDS' ODONTO, 

OK PBABL SBNTIFRICE, 
OBDODndid of tb* ranrt and moit rninnt eiatln. It bMtow 
Mt hem thao from Tartif, and Jmptm to ibe lunit a baalthj 
ulawiauietiandimrin^Price^ td. parboi. 
BPtraiOUH lUlTAT IONS r l l Tba oslj OiinTnra of oacb b( 

..._..„. ,;recedln| tbit of tb« Artlda on tba Vrappar or Label. 

bj A. HOWLAND and BONH, H, Hitton Oirdan, LoDdon. and br ObamM 



"W. F. ROE (late Freeman Hoe), 




HYDIUllUG&GASENGfNEEIlAND 
FOUNTAIN MAKER, 




^^ FIB£ ENOIHES ft PTTHPB, 

PompB for deep ft otiier Weill, Ac. 
" FllUdgi, GlugCbuidellen. Min- 







' Patentees, COOPER aod FBTES. ntx* door to the 

HAYMABKET THEATRE, LONDON, 

AHO AT SOUTH WEST GALLERY, CRYSTAL PAUGE. SYDENHAM. 

MANUFACTORY, IB, BUTHBRbAND BQUAK&, WAIiWORTH BOAD. 



Bslh, \ 



AG EN^TS^^ 



M,m 



III, Henri 
m,— Herefo 



Lfdi — BrlfiblDn, -.lIlltlDl, 

.F<i, W. Clirli&Son Ci'dlff, — CuUila. — Cbeltenbuii,C, 

Prnmrnulii VIUu _rj,ntri-. — Colchotec. — Corenlry. Tbonul 

imbl^ Smlltr Owe — I>«vii:t>. Chu Boach, Britiai — Bum 
O. Wubbouma, WeBt||>» Sveet.— UcUton, Coraur^'. Cuitt 

.irnculte, LlDcwIn, J. FarliJi.— Hull IpAvEcb, 

BdB.— Leedl. Hmitb It son, TallDis, Bond Street, BDil mt HiIdfordT— i.elceiler. Jwepl 
■I Ptice — l-lnooln. G. H. Trafford, i. Eichrqurr GkIs.— Llierpool, Jichsoa BroUm 



— Kewe 



-Pljm. 



-l^oli 






■ Aliken, 



1/ Unnll* Hgom>. ^__^^_ 

Agenti will ahortly be appointBd for the Towns not flUed b 



THE 
WKtan 



MPAWV, LONOOK. 



1I>T EBTlSBMKSn. 



CITT 8QAF VOBEB, lONDOH. ESTABLISHEB 





NAPLES 

AVELLING 

TABLET. 



THE refined habits of Eiwlish TraveUeis aa ^et but imper&ctl; nnderatood' ' 

lliii«iil iMiillili inliiT Ill liiiliiiil ■111'--- ■inlNHaH,H)Ui« boUt ■ bpniBl > i£m. naMUdi talk 

siiiTlis Sow aii>JOUSAET.iHUiliHUIii«tb>daDiiit^IittUlb«nnpwliart ■•((»_ H>(Hiuutl!<i<H 
b*dim«Uibl«lTtn*Blt.vmHHil(UHv'af ■poUlDfwhivnrltwiftliK^rtHtTtth. lIti«rLfliv«kldWmhirtaM 
aDtlnOr ohvUloI tbl>ilim4Diry» W ths Adipuilcmsf ui ELABnO CA^IiliDav In HHbiMInu Hud fatSiil ^ 
IhKDlbr their KBAVINO TABLlnTD.U amldn • liHM •< llmlr w.lt4M» MAft«a «OAP-« ftyp majamjH 



Eicb Tsblat tnl Cue li Sump«l 

"CITY SOAP WOEKS,' 



atk the mnal VjjuIcitti 



andSole Kunfiwtnnn, 



Passport Agency Office, Iiondon, 69, Fleet Btreetl 



Piriin i»l<thi( in Boj